THE CITY'S WEALTH AND POWER - 875


stores had reached East Twenty-Second Street when the Van Sweringens upset the whole procession. And there the situation stands.


There was a great opening of the Terminal on June 28, 1930. Newton D. Baker was toastmaster and Julius H. Barnes, chairman of the United States Chamber of Commerce, was the principal speaker. Patrick E. Crowley, president of the New York Central, was there, and Walter L. Ross, president of the Nickel Plate. Everybody turned out for the luncheon and opening except two-0. P. and M. J. Van Sweringen. These two spent the day quietly on their huge country estate, O. P. strolling and M. J. astride his horse. Their distaste for publicity is so great that it kept them away from the celebration of Cleveland's most conspicuous construction achievement.—W. C. M.


MY CITY


By TED ROBINSON


(First Printed in the Cleveland Plain Dealer)


Untaught by life, I wept in youthful wise

For Hellas overwhelmed, man's masterpiece;

Longed for the templed groves, the azure skies

Of ' olden Greece.


There grew a city for the world to praise,

Divinely built for immortality—

Only its tombs today their columns raise

For living men to see.


Why should we toil' on any lovely thing,

Why should we build a city, when we know

That presently Time's ceaseless battering

Shall lay it low?


* * *


Thus have I pondered, with a shallow thought,

And childish reasoning with vain conclusion.

What is it, after all, that Time has brought

To ruin and confusion?


The slums are gone, the alleyways, and all

The common ugliness of every day;

Market and hovel, shop and wooden wall

Have passed away.


The wrong they did is gone; the fleshly pain,

The passions and the business, good and bad;

The Greeks have gone forever. There remain

The dreams they had.


The Beauty they created out of stone,

The songs where mind interpreted the heart—

These live. Of all that Hellas wrought, alone

Immortal stands her Art.


Time veils the ancient ugliness; Time slays

The priests of ignorance, the lords of error;

Time turns the light upon the darkened ways

Of world-old terror.


But wheresoever man has found a truth

Or chiseled deathless dreams from lifeless stones,

Time has no power to quench the eternal youth

That beauty owns.


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878 - THIS CLEVELAND OF OURS


Did not the wonder of the Parthenon,

The Iliad, Plato's philosophy,

Confer upon a nation that is gone

Their immortality?


Let no man dare to turn into derision

One dream we cling to or one hope we cherish;

Full well we know: "Except there be a vision,

The people perish."


The people perish! Build whate'er ye will

Of swarming shops and smoking factories,

Gather your golden trash—a people still

Can never live by these.


Their wealth unmans them or their toil enslaves,

They live or die with that for which they strive;

Then comes the vision—and the vision saves

Their souls alive.


Oh, let My City be too proud to plan

Unworthily, or fashion vulgarly;

Too proud to be one whit less lovely than

The fairest that can be!


I see a City that is not content

To follow counsels ignorant or blind,

Or leave its future to a chance event—

A City with a Mind.


I see a City looking forward, free

To open all its doors to joy and art;

Eager for all men's wonderment. I see

A City with a Heart.


A City whose devotion shall not fail,

That keeps its eyes upon the lofty goal,

Against whose light no shadow shall prevail—

A City with a Soul!


The dream is dreamed. The City that shall follow

Begins to rear its towers toward the light;

The fire upon the temple of Apollo

Shines through the night.


PART FOUR


THE CITY'S LIFE


Chapter I. Who We Are

Chapter II. Government

Chapter III. Education

Chapter IV. The Press

Chapter V. Art and Architecture

Chapter VI. Music and Drama

Chapter VII. Play

Chapter VIII. The Shaker Settlement

Chapter IX. Religion and Philanthropy


PART IV


THE CITY'S LIFE


CHAPTER I.


WHO WE ARE


Who are we, the Clevelanders, who live in this beautiful city?


The answer leads far afield, for only a little more than a fourth of us are of the native white stock. The forebears of most of these came from New England ; a few moved on from Virginia, Kentucky, Pennsylvania ; a scattering from other states. Eight per cent of us are negroes, and the other sixty-five per cent have gathered here from all over the known world.


Cleveland seems to have been planned more completely than a modern skyscraper, for the work of the skyscraper architect is finished when the building is ready for occupancy, whereas the Connecticut Land Company not only selected the site, drew the plans and completed the structure but selected the tenants, too. These tenants harmonized well with the ar-chitecture, which ran generally to straight lines. Except for the Cuyahoga River and the shore line of Lake Erie, there is not a curve in Moses Cleaveland's survey, nor a departure from strict convention. He put in his New England "cross-roads" in the form of a nice, regular Public Square in the center of the development. It was a New England design, intended for New Englanders. Later—


"Three radiating roads were surveyed through the ten-acre lots; 'North Highway,' now St. Clair Avenue, 'Center Highway,' now Euclid Avenue, and 'South Highway,' now Woodland Avenue; each was ninety-nine feet wide and their


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882 - THIS CLEVELAND OF OURS


corners were respectively north 58 degrees east, north 82 degrees east, and south 74 degrees east."


The first tenants fitted precisely into the plan, constructed a distillery, tavern, church and school—in the order named —and proceeded so exactly along the lines laid down by the designers that Surveyor Seth Pease might have gone further and saved a lot of bother for historians of 1932 by writing an advance history of the people. That history, up to about 1840, would have been faithful enough. But then something happened.


A lot of foreigners came in, throwing curves, (street curves, and also curves of art and poetry and song and laugh-ter in a network of color) all over Spafford's map. The straight lines bent and jogged. From then on the city grew without orderly planning.


It would have been an entirely different story had the expected rush of New Englanders come along in 1830 or 1840, for theirs was the stock best suited to the stern work of pioneering. They were physically strong, inured to cold winters, industrious, inventive and commercial. They were not easily turned from the direct course to their goal nor, indeed, from any other course, religious, political or economic. They held the tolerance toward opposing thinkers that characterized their former neighbors of Salem, Massachusetts. All the names of the leaders of the first third of a century, holders of public office and high position in affairs, were names such as are found on the tombstones in New England graveyards.


There is no inference intended that foreign immigrants were discouraged from coming to Cleveland ; the reverse is true. The city was planned as a real estate development and its land boom was well under way before any immigrants were available to help swell the demand for lots. But the earliest foreign settlers who came so far west were farmers and were not attracted to Cleveland. In the first half of the nineteenth century hundreds of thousands of Irish and Ger-mans came to the new continent, but the Irish chose to remain in the cities of the east, and the Germans were mostly farm-


THE CITY'S LIFE - 883


ers. Great numbers of these latter were coming west as early as 1818, when reference is made to them by a newspaper, the Gazette, which says : "They travel on foot, the women carrying large bags on their heads." In 1833 there were 150,000 Germans in Ohio, most of them in the southern part of the state. The early Moravian settlements were, of course, German. Moravia itself is about seventy per cent Slavish, but the "Hidden Seed" of the Moravian Church which survived the Thirty Years' war was almost wholly German, and the Moravian Church has remained so.


In 1926, or even earlier, the Cleveland Health Council, the Board of Education, Division of Health, Western Reserve Medical School and other organizations found themselves needing answers to such questions as where we lived, how many in a given district, what sections of town we were de-serting, what sections we were adopting, how many and what age our youngsters were. Simple questions apparently, but the answers were a guess.


To know the movements and shifts of the people it was necessary to have a smaller unit than the city, or the East Side or the West Side. In 1924 Howard Whipple Green, Director of Statistics and Research of the Cleveland Health Council, made a study of negro population based on the ward as a unit. But the unit proved too large and too unstable for carrying out such studies successfully. The statistical department of the Chamber of Commerce comments:


"In connection with the Census of 1910, the U. S. Bureau of the Census laid out the eight cities having a population of 500,000 or more at that time, into census tracts which are constant geographical areas used in enumerating the population. There are today 201 of these fixed areas in the 71 square miles of Cleveland proper, also 18 in Lakewood, 17 in Cleveland Heights, 10 in East Cleveland and 6 in Shaker Heights. The balance of the county is divided into 86 addi-tional areas. On the basis of these tracts, which in the city average roughly one-third of a square miles in area, Mr. Green in 1927 published a book which together with the ac-companying maps showed the gross and net (residential land,


884 - THIS CLEVELAND OF OURS


plus streets) area in acres in each tract, the population in 1910 and in 1920, the increase or decrease in population and the density of population. Two supplements were issued later."


These studies were forerunners of a volume issued in 1930, by the Cleveland Plain Dealer, without which this chapter on Ethnology could not have been written in its entirety. "Population Characteristics by Census Tracts," by Howard Whipple Green, is based on the United States Census of 1930 and is a complete racial inventory. The following table, from Green's compilations, numbers the foreign races in five centers in Cuyahoga County : Cleveland, Lakewood, Cleveland Heights, East Cleveland and Shaker Heights. The population of these five is 1,079,333, or 89.8 per cent of the population of the county, 1,201,455. It is 90.3 per cent of the population of the Cleveland Metropolitan District, which numbers, 1,194,989.



Origin

Number

Percentage

Czechslovakia

Poland

Germany

Italy

Yugoslavia

Hungary

Russia  

Irish Free State

England

Canada

Austria

Roumania

Lithuania

Scotland

North Ireland

Sweden

Greece

Wales

Switzerland

France

102,192

87,795

100,231

59,346

41,276

42,485

37,507

31,148

33,843

25,762

19,220

12,871

10,405

12,984

7,319

6,290

3,778

4,569

4,204

4,187

15.4

13.2

15.

8.9

6.2

6.4

5.6

4.7

5.1

3.9

2.9

1.9

1.6

2.

1.

.9

.6

.7

.6

.6

THE CITY'S LIFE - 885

Syria

Netherlands

Finland

Norway

Denmark

All others

2,727

2,954

2,254

1,722

1,778

7,093

.4

.4

.3

.3

.3

1.1

Total

665,940

100.



 

The British Empire, as a unit, furnished 115,625, or 17.4 per cent.

 

This table will afford plenty of opportunity for thought and plenty for argument, too. It is immediately apparent that sixty-five per cent of the population of Cleveland is foreign, and when we add eight per cent for negroes we have only twenty-seven per cent left for native white stock. However, the table includes as "foreigners," those born in Cleveland of foreign born parents. Another source of argument lies in the fact that many of those who came from Yugoslavia are Hungarians by birth, and the complexity of politics in Southern Europe does not give any assistance to the classifier.

 

As for generalizing, speaking of this or that "foreign influence," nothing of the sort is possible. Says Green :

 

"It is evident that Greater Cleveland, while a compact community, is anything but uniform, and an average for the whole is grossly misleading. There are wide economic and cultural differences between areas, in fact the city is a complexity of areas, each with its own peculiarities and characteristics and therefore cannot be dealt with as a single statistical unit."

 

Treating the various nationalities as separate groups necessitates a departure from the table given above, because there are many people listed under "all others," who deserve especial mention.

 

There are the Armenians, too few to make much of an impress on civic affairs, but interesting'. "Martin, the Armenian" was a member of the Jamestown colony in 1618, and two Armenians were brought over in 1653, as silk worm

 

886 - THIS CLEVELAND OF OURS

 

cultivators. It may have been one of these who was honored by the Assembly of Virginia in December, 1656, when it resolved : "That George, the Armenian, for his encourage-ment in the trade of silk to stay in the country to follow the same, have four thousand pounds of tobacco allowed him by the Assembly." The big Armenian immigration began in, 1895 and was caused by interest aroused by American missionaries, added to political unrest in Turkey. Armenians are Aryans, and were the first people to adopt Christianity officially, which they did in 301 A. D.

 

Prior to 1903 there were no Bulgarians in Cleveland. In that year three of them came, and the next year a group of Bulgarian molders were brought in by the Cleveland Car Wheel Company, later the Lakewood Engineering Company, from Pittsburgh. They settled around Herman and Stone avenues and later moved to Madison Avenue and West One Hundred and Fifth Street to be nearer their work. The Bulgarians divide their religious allegiance between the Russian Orthodox Church and different Protestant churches.

 

The Chinese, most picturesque of all, are few in number and least susceptible of assimilation into the community life. They have been forced away from their old quarters at St. Clair Avenue and Ontario Street because the city condemned the buildings in which they lived as unfit for habitation. The colony is now a mile east on Hamilton Avenue, with its boundaries not nearly so sharply defined as before. They have stores, restaurants serving Chinese food or American or both, tong meeting-places and temples of worship.

 

The first Croatians settled in Cleveland in 1888. Most of them live along St. Clair Avenue, from East Twenty-fifth Street to East Seventy-ninth Street, but some are to be found in Newburg, Collinwood, Nottingham, Euclid Village, Randall and West Park. There are some, also, along Franklin Avenue from West Fourteenth to West Twenty-fifth streets. Most of them work in the steel mills, but there are here Croatian attorneys, physicians, accountants and representatives in most of the professions and trades. They take nat-urally to business, and a Croatian family will make almost any effort and sacrifice to attain the ambition of a store of

 

THE CITY'S LIFE - 887

 

its own, no matter how tiny or humble. Some of them also are coppersmiths. The Croatians have both Greek and Roman Catholic churches.

 

We quote from a digest of Green's book in the Cleveland Plain Dealer:

 

"Three Czechoslovakian settlements in Cleveland have shown astonishing growth in the last ten years. In one section of Kinsman Road S. E. and between East Ninety-third and East One Hundred and Fortieth streets the Czechoslovakian population has more than doubled. In one tract of this section it has increased more than 900 per cent. In another settlement, bounded by Buckeye Road, East Boulevard, Kinsman Road and East One Hundred and Second Street, the foreign born Czechoslovakians have increased 300 per cent.

 

"The older settlement of this nationality group west of the Cuya-hoga River between Lorain and Clark avenues has doubled in the last ten years, while that in Lakewood, bounded by Madison, Halsted and Magee avenues and Berea Road, remained practically stationary.

 

"The Czechoslovakians are the largest nationality group in the Cleveland metropolitan area, in spite of the fact that there were no Czechoslovakians in Cleveland according to the census of 1910. At that time Czechoslovakia, was a part of the Austro-Hungarian empire and Czechoslovakians were enumerated as being from that country.

 

"The total number of persons in metropolitan Cleveland born in what was formerly the Austro-Hungarian empire is 84,653, including Czechoslovakians, Jugoslays, Austrians and Hungarians. More than 125,000 of these nationality groups were born here of foreign-born parents. In 1920 they formed 10.1 per cent of the foreign-born population. The increase is not due to immigration in the intervening years, but to the fact that many Czechoslovakians still gave their birthplace as Austria or Hungary in 1920, three years after the World war, which changed the national boundaries.

 

"There are 38,434 foreign-born Czechoslovakians in the five cities, according to the census of 1930, and 63,758 were born here of foreign-born parents. Of the foreign-born, 34,695 live in Cleveland and most of the others in Lakewood in the tract between Madison Avenue and Berea Road. In this tract 76 per cent of the population are Czechoslovakians."

 

The government lists neither Czechs nor Slovaks separately, but counts the people coming from Czechoslovakia as one unit. The Czechs and Slovaks, however, are quite different in their characteristics, although the swing of fate has thrown them into the same political group.

The Czechs are the people whom we used to call Bohemians. Their country carried the name Bohemia from the early days when it belonged to a Celtic tribe called the Boii, whose capital was Boiohemum. These were driven out by a

 

888 - THIS CLEVELAND OF OURS

 

Germanic tribe, the Marcomanni, and these in turn by the Slavic people who call themselves Czechs, and who called their country Czechy. There are traces of Czechs in Bohemia as far back as 500 B. C., and it is definitely known that there were some of them living there at the beginning of the Christian era, but it was not until the fifth century A. D. that they made themselves masters of the land.

 

Many tribes of many races, Slavic, Magyar, Gypsy, German, have flowed into and through the country. From each the Czechs have borrowed, have learned. It is characteristic of them that Czech remains the literary language not only of the Czechs but also of the Slovaks, who retain their own Slovak vernacular for informal use.

 

They have become to a large extent fair-haired and blue-eyed. Their features are apt to be smaller and finer than those of the other Slays. They are, on the whole, more intellectual than the Slovaks, who are in their own land almost purely an agricultural people. The Bohemian music shows a strong and somewhat scholarly German influence. Their language was suitable for abstract discussion as far back as the fourteenth century.

 

Several beautiful churches and national halls in Cleveland were built from funds contributed by local Czechs, and Cleveland also harbors several headquarters of different Czech fraternal organizations with membership running into tens of thousands and with hundreds of lodges scattered over the country. There are two Bohemian dailies and one weekly paper, of more than local importance, and several bi-monthly and monthly publications, printed and published here. In their Cleveland achievements the Czechs have amply justified their title of "Yankees of Europe."

 

The Slovaks are a strong and sturdy peasantry. There are scholars and artists among them, theologians and others of high culture. But for the most part they live by the strength of their hands. The women are cleanly, good house-keepers and good cooks according to their native habit. A Slovak woman can turn out more varieties of noodles than a New England woman ever dreamed of. There are not only

 

THE CITY'S LIFE - 889

 

many varieties' of the neutral ones for soup or to go with meat, cheeses or vegetables, but there are sweet kinds for desert, and noodles with cottage cheese, chives and sour cream, for Sunda3r night supper. The lavish use of sour cream in the Slovak and Hungarian cooking is a heritage from dairy farms without ice. It is giving way in this country before the cost of milk in cities and the march of the electric refrigerator salesman.

 

The Slovaks have the heavy build, strong shoulders, broad faces and flat noses of the Slay. But there is a twinkle in the wide-set eyes and the hair of the women grows softly around broad and beautiful brows. Friendly folk, these Slovaks—knowing what they want, going straight after it and getting it, but willing to do a kindness on the way.

 

John Roskos, in 1877, was the first Slovak to come to Cleveland. He settled on Berg Street. Today there are more than one hundred and sixty branches of Slovak organizations in Cleveland. About sixty-five per cent of the people are Roman Catholics and twenty-five per cent Protestants. The settlements are on Scovill between East Twentieth and Twenty-fifth, West Eleventh and West Fourteenth, Aetna and Ninety-third, and Superior and East Fifty-second streets. The group of Czecho-Slovaks listed as living in Lakewood around Madison Avenue and West 117th Street is almost entirely Slovak. There are more than a dozen Slovak churches and four building and loan societies.

 

There is a good chance that the Danes were the first Europeans to see the American continent, and it seems a bit odd to speak of them as immigrants. But immigrants they were, as far as Cleveland is concerned. There are not very many of them here, and they are hard to trace, because they so quickly acquire English and assimilate so readily. At one time there was a small group in Lakewood—truck gardeners and own-ers of greenhouses—but these have now moved farther west into Rocky River and Dover. Nearly all of them have ac-quired land and many of them are wealthy. An unusually large proportion of Danish people are in educational and scientific work. Herman N. Matzen, sculptor of renown both

 

890 - THIS CLEVELAND OF OURS

 

in and out of the city, beloved teacher for forty years in the Cleveland School of Art, may be mentioned as one of the Danes who have contributed greatly to Cleveland.

 

What became of all the French who might have been expected to be numbered among Cleveland's population? There are only four thousand Frenchmen, compared with thirty-four thousand English, in Cleveland. The French were all around here in the early days. In Canada, a stream of them flowed up the St. Lawrence and the Lakes, then down from Mackinac to Detroit, to Indiana, to New Orleans, with plenty of them scattering through Ohio. Yet nearly nothing' is said about them in Cleveland's early history, and today they cannot be segregated except in the figures of the census. Several answers suggest themselves, but none of them seems to satisfy all the conditions of the problem. One is that except under such provocative conditions as those which settled Quebec and New Orleans and sent the coureurs du bois and the missionaries into far places, Frenchmen do not emigrate very much. They are satisfied with France.

 

There were, however, more than a few French here along about 1840. The first Roman Catholic Church in Cleveland, then called the church of Our Lady of the Lake, later known as St. Mary's on the Flats, was dedicated by the Right Reverend Doctor de Forbin-Janson, bishop of Toule-Nancy, France, assisted by Bishop J. B. Purcell of Cincinnati. In 1847 the first bishop of Cleveland, Louis Amadeus Rappe, himself from Boulogne, was asking' French Ursulines to send some sisters to establish a school for the training of young girls. One of the families which sent contributions enabling the sisters to come and settle here was that of Marshall Castle, lawyer and brother of William B. Castle, one of Cleveland's early mayors. Castle had married Helene Beaugrand, daughter of Jean Baptiste and Marguerite Chabert de Jon-caire Beaugrand of Detroit. There were enough of these French women here at that time, and their desire for what they considered adequate education for their daughters was strong enough to accomplish the establishment of the school. By adequate education they meant not only a very thorough

 

THE CITY'S LIFE - 891

 

grounding in reading, writing and arithmetic (for a French housewife is expected to take full care of the home expenses) but Christian doctrine, needlework, knitting, music and French were also considered essential.

 

Four sisters came at that time, establishing themselves and their educational processes in the former home of Judge Samuel Cowles on Euclid Avenue, where later the sisterhood was to build that interesting brick building with the curving wings and central front lawn in which so many Cleveland women, Protestant as well as Catholic, went to school, and where the department store of the William Taylor Son & Company now stands. The four sisters were Mother des Serapienes, (Miss Teresa Young), Sister M. Benoit (Miss Sylvia Pequot), Mother Mary of the Annunciation (Miss Mary Beaumont), Mother St. Charles, (Miss Victoria Bourdelier). Mother St. Charles became the first Superior. Mother des Serapienes and Sister Marie Benoit returned to France after the school had been well started. Lady Arabella Seymour, an English lady who had been educated in France, soon joined them, becoming Sister Mary Austin. These three became the original trustees of the convent.

 

The delightful and capable Monseigneur Felix M. Boff is recalled with pleasure by many Clevelanders. He was at one time acting bishop of Cleveland, but is perhaps best re-membered as he passed his declining years happily in the little house in which he lived with his sister on the grounds of Villa Angela, surrounded by roses in whose culture he took great delight, and by adoring small people from the neighboring. pleasant country school of the Ursulines.

 

A church, that of The Annunciation, on Hurd Street, was established in 1870 "for the French."

 

What has become of them? They melt into the native population. Helene Beaugrand, for example, marries Mar-shall Castle, brother of the W. B. Castle who was mayor of Cleveland in 1855-6. Her daughters marry Charles Burt and Paul North. Her granddaughter is Helene North, who marries Carl Narten. Mrs. Narten's services to her community on the Shaker Heights School Board, Children's Bureau,

 

892 - THIS CLEVELAND OF OURS

 

Adult Education Association, Women's City Club, Vassar Alumnae Association and so on, give an inkling of what ability may result from the mingling of French and English stocks. Helene Beaugrand's interest and energy applied to education remain, but the form of their outlets changes.

 

Of Helene Beaugrand's three sisters, Sophie married a man from Massachusetts, Dr. La Quinio Rawson, and settled in Fremont, Ohio. Sophie's sons married women of English and Scotch descent. Her daughter Estelle Rawson married Lemuel Arthur Russell, of Connecticut Yankee stock. Her daughter married a man of German descent, thus adding a little more variety to the family inheritance. The other sis-ters, Julie and Marguerite, brought the names Fletcher and Dickinson into the family. That is the way in which most of the old French names have disappeared, the stock melting insensibly into the American.

 

In 1829 as many as six hundred immigrants reached Cleveland within two weeks, some of whom stayed in or near the city. By 1835 the tide had reached such a stage that the city was concerned as to caring for it. A gang of swindlers was operating in Buffalo and Cleveland, selling bogus tickets to immigrants and otherwise defrauding them to such an extent that the various nationalities got together in protective societies and published warnings in the newspapers. These also published "Immigrant Guide Books."

 

The German influx into Cleveland is first noted in 1830, but there must have been a very considerable number of Germans here by 1836, for the "German Society of Cleveland" was organized on February twenty-second of that year, and the society had fifty members by the year following.

 

There are probably 250,000 persons of German descent in Metropolitan Cleveland, or about one to five. There are so many of them, they have been here so long and are so thoroughly assimilated, that it is not possible to treat them individually and say, "Here is where the Germans live" and "This is the German contribution to our culture." The story of the Germans in Cleveland is the story of most of the people in Cleveland.

 

By 1833 names like Silberg, Kaiser, Neeb, Denker, Wig-

 

THE CITY'S LIFE - 893

 

man, Schuele, Leisy, Hessenmueller, Schaaf and Frey appeared in various lines of activity, such as tailoring, gardening, contracting, watchmaking. The Germans were not specialists as many other immigrants were. But whatever they undertook they did with thoroughness. There was one named Amstutz who had a little thirty-six acre farm out Brecksville way, who sent in such amazing reports of crop yields that the United States Department of Agriculture sent a special investigator to find out how he did it. Amstutz brought forth a portable steam boiler, with a hood attachment, and showed how he went over every inch of his land with the contrivance, treating the soil with steam and fertilizer at the same time, thus destroying the harmful bacteria and enriching the soil in one operation. (He did not, of course, know it was bacteria he was killing—he had merely discovered that this process made his crops better).

 

The best of the German culture was brought to Cleveland after 1848 by the political refugees, and their influence was felt at once, especially in music. In that year there was organized the first Gesangverein, the "Frohsinn." A Turverein was established in 1850 and the first German newspaper in 1852. Today there are over fifty of these singing societies, some of them very old like the Harmonie Gesangverein, founded sixty-nine years ago, the Turner Maennerchor, started in 1866, and the Heights Maennerchor. Altogether there are some 600 German societies.

 

Once the Germans got started, they did not quit coming, as some of the other races did, but rather came in increasing numbers, so that they now show almost the same ratio to the rest of the population that they did in 1850, which was 3,000 to 20,000. That figure of 3,000, by the way, is nearly half the total population of 1840, which was 7,648, and nearly three times the population of 1830, which was 1,075. From 1830, when the Germans first came, to 1850, is the period of Cleveland's greatest percentage gains in population : seven hundred per cent in the decade ending in 1830 and 1840, and nearly three hundred per cent in the decade ending in 1850.

 

The Greeks did not start coming to this country until

 

894 - THIS CLEVELAND OF OURS

 

after 1892, and real immigration started about 1900. Most of them are in New York, Boston, Chicago and Detroit. The immigrants were working men, commercially inclined and wanting to create something of their own. In Cleveland most of them are engaged in the restaurant, confectionery and baking business. They have one church, and a school where Greek and English are taught. The Greeks belong to the Greek Orthodox Church. They have not grouped their homes.

 

Hungarians fought with Washington and with Grant. A Hungarian boy fired the first cannon for the Americans in the World war. Their works of peace are shown in Cleveland by three Roman Catholic, two Greek Catholic and seven Protestant churches ; one hundred and two humanitarian and cultural organizations, two symphonic orchestras and one art club. They are sturdy, thrifty, religious and cultured. David and Morris Black headed a group of refugees from the revolu-tion of 1848, arriving in Cleveland in 1852. Joseph and Louis Black, well known to the living generation, -were sons of Morris. East Seventy-ninth Street, south of Woodland Avenue, is the nucleus of a Hungarian neighborhood. So also is Buckeye Road and East One Hundred and Sixteenth Street. Another Hungarian settlement is to be found west of West Twenty-fifth Street on both sides of Loraine Avenue.

 

The Irish, like the Germans, have been here so long that they have completely merged their identities with those of the land of their adoption. The census figures are somewhat misleading, since they include only foreign-born and those born here but of foreign parentage. Such figures disregard the numerous descendants of the earliest comers. The first Irishman in Cleveland was William Murphy, who arrived in 1830. Large numbers of Irish laborers came to work on the Ohio canal, liked it here and remained, to enrich the city's life with humor and warmth of heart.

 

The Italians have been here for about seventy years. They first settled in the market district along Ontario Street, then, as their numbers and lines of activities multiplied, spread to other sections. The best known section is "Little

 

THE CITY'S LIFE - 895

 

Italy" on Mayfield Road, where they first came to labor in the marble works near Lake View Cemetery. There are gatherings also in Collinwood, on Woodland Avenue, West Sixty-ninth and West Thirty-second streets, Kinsman Road and East One Hundred and Fortieth Street and in the outlying districts like Newburg, Bedford, Euclid Village and South Euclid. The Italians have eight churches, most of them with parochial schools, more than forty important fraternal organizations with a membership of ten thousand, and six well known clubs. More than half of their boys and girls are entering or preparing to enter state universities.

 

Now the tenants of the Connecticut Land Company could have done all that—built schools and churches and organized societies. But the Italians gave Cleveland something that the New Englanders never could have given. They brought their fiestas with song and color and fireworks, their little salty anchovies and their big plates of macaroni.

 

There are a few Japanese merchants, selling wares of beauty and delicacy, and a Hindu or two.

 

The Latvians, although there are only about three hun-dred of them in Cleveland, deserve special attention because their country is one of the baby nations created by the World war. Latvia declared her independence from Russia on November 18, 1918, and adopted a Republican form of government. During the war her population decreased from 2,550,000 to 1,600,000, and fighting continued on Latvian soil for more than a year after the armistice was signed.

 

The first Lithuanians came in 1870, formed fraternal societies and a Roman Catholic Church and settled about Oregon, Hamilton and Lakeside avenues, between East Ninth and Thirtieth streets. The present settlement is between East Fifty-fifth and East Ninety-second streets, Wade Park Avenue and Lake Erie. They have one savings and loan association, a new church, a weekly newspaper and several clubs. The majority are factory workers.

 

The first Macedonians came to Cleveland in the latter part of 1903, to work in the steel mills. At that time they were living on Berg Street and Broadway. Since the World

 

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war the colony has grown in number and is now located north of Woodland Avenue between East Twenty-second and East Thirty-second streets. They belong, for the most part, to the Russian Orthodox Church.

 

There are too few Manxmen in Cleveland to be enumerated separately in the census, but they came from the Isle of Man in the English Channel as early as 1826, headed by William Kelley of Newburg. Such familiar names among our business and professional men as Collister, Corlett, Creer, Christian, Gill, Kerruish, Quayle and Teare indicate the benefits the city has received from its citizens of Manx descent.

 

Eight per cent of the population of Cleveland are Negroes. The 8,448 Negroes in the city in 1910 were located principally along Cedar, Central and Woodland avenues, between East Fourteenth and East Fortieth streets. A few scattered families lived beyond East Fifty-fifth Street in the Central East Side as far as the city limits. In 1920 the number of Negroes had quadrupled, 34,451 being enumerated. The section in which they were found in 1910 had been broadened and filled to East Fifty-fifth Street. To the east as far as the city limits substantial numbers were found. Other sections were the near West Side, lov,rer St. Clair and upper Kinsman.

 

In 1930 the 71,899 Negro population was found in the original district, the section east of East Fifty-fifth Street, to a greater extent than before, and in the outlying sections mentioned above. One point of serious significance about this 1930 population, which had more than doubled in ten years, is its greater concentration in areas not much larger than before.

 

The Negroes among us present a peculiar problem. Newcomers of the hardy northern races, such as the Hungarians and Slovaks, used to cold winters, to nourishing themselves on the good peasant soups and stews with their content of the cheap and homely but extremely useful vegetables, their egg noodles and cheeses, these thrive and prosper here. Thrifty before because of dire necessity, here their native fru-

 

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gality swiftly turns into savings accounts and homes of their own. The Italians and those of other southern European races soon adapt themselves, also, to our climate and customs. It is the strong members of nations strong enough to keep going under trouble who come here on their own initiative, and they not only maintain their strength, but here increase it.

 

The Negroes are wholly different. They were brought to this country under duress in the first instance, and once on our soil were for almost two hundred and fifty years entirely under the white man's care and domination. When thrown on their own resources they had no inherited or acquired traditions to fit them for the new life. Nevertheless, in the South they get on somehow, because of the more friendly climate.

 

Before the World war, there were not many Negroes in Cleveland. The scarcity of labor brought them north in great numbers in that time of demand for labor and high wages. The war ended, the demand dropped, but here the Negroes remained.

 

Did the employers who were so eager to bring them up make any intelligent, concerted effort to send them home again, where at least the fuel problem would not be pressing? Not so. Did the city make any intelligent effort to look after them? Not in any effective way. The Associated Charities does its best to feed them and see them clothed enough so that the children may go to school. They do their best to help themselves and each other. But overcrowding, unemployment, misery are their portion. Nor is the writer speaking of the time of depression. This problem was serious long before the famous year of 1929.

 

The dark skins, evolved to stand the African suns, are not a help but a hindrance as regards tuberculosis, which ravages the young people. The happy-go-lucky nature which lets the darkies sing in the cotton fields is no proof against policy games. Their innate sweetness and habit of taking orders from whites makes them easy prey to the type of land-lord who would exploit them. Nor in their present condition are they any sort of asset as tenants to the landlord who

 

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would like to be fair but who, in turn, is burdened by his taxes and dependent on his rents.

 

Used to the warmth of southern out-door life, where a slight shelter suffices for sleeping and cooking, but where the affairs of life are conducted for the most part in the sun, cold weather drives the lads into poolrooms, corner stores and warm loafing places, where what they learn does neither them nor anyone else any good.

 

It can hardly be really necessary for a city—a beautiful city, an enlightened city—to endure such slums as exist around Woodland, Scovill, Central avenues.

 

Tragically anxious for work, pathetically grateful for kindness, friendly and joyous when they have any chance to be, here are the Negroes, 72,000 of them. Their contribution to music, drama and the general joy of life has been immeasurable. And they are left to crowd and starve and die of tuberculosis and other diseases, menacing the regions around them and the districts where they go to work, spreading lines of disease out from their slums into the far corners of our city.

 

More than all other races the Negroes need sun and space to grow things. More than all other races are they here jammed into dark and musty tenements. Surely something gracious, something sensible, something safe—something just—might be done by so great a city for this suffering twelfth of its population.

 

The Poles are strong and individualistic, never losing those qualities. The largest group of Poles is located south and west of Broadway in the Harvard Avenue section, and the next largest is east of Scranton Road extending to the Cuyahoga River valley around Starkweather Avenue. Many of them, also, live on East Seventy-ninth Street, between Su-perior and St. Clair. They should be classed among the new-comers to the city, although there were some here as early as 1840. The bulk of them have come in the present century. In a comparatively short Cleveland lifetime they have gath-ered together four fraternal organizations, national in scope, two hundred and fifty varied clubs and societies, one bank

 

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and four savings and loan associations. They have three newspapers, two dailies and one weekly, a Chamber of Industry, two women's clubs, several singing and dramatic societies, an arts club, a nonpartisan political league, a welfare association and three aid societies.

 

The Roumanians are the direct descendants of the Roman colony of Dacia. The first Roumanian settlement in the United States was founded in Cleveland a quarter of a century ago. The first organization, the first church and the first newspaper printed in Roumanian are contributions of this settlement. After the close of the World war, many of these people went back to the homeland, but soon returned to stay. Hence the real Roumanian life in Cleveland starts only after the war. The Roumanians now have twenty-five organizations, four churches, two halls and one bank.

 

A very large group of Russians, numbering 37,507, represents the most striking shift of nationality grouping in evidence in Cleveland. In 1920 the Russian center was in the Woodland and East Fifty-fifth Street, neighborhood. Ten years later this center was deserted by the Russians in favor of two districts, East One Hundred and Fifth Street north of Superior Avenue, and upper Kinsman.

 

The Ruthenians are an interesting people. At the first All Nations Exposition, presented at Cleveland's Public Hall in 1929 under the auspices of the Cleveland Press and the City of Cleveland, the sign "RUSIN" in large letters hung over their booth. The writer paused, a little puzzled by it. A pleasant young American, in no way to be distinguished in appearance from other American acquaintances and friends, remarked with a smile, "No, it is not a wrong spelling. We are not Russians. We are Rusin people." He pronounced it Roozin. The writer had learned many delightful and astonishing things that afternoon, to add to her previous personal knowledge of the racial elements which go to making This Cleveland of Ours, but "Rusin people" were entirely new to her. The young Rusin-American conducted her inside the booth, where he explained the lineage of his people, while women dressed in their native costumes showed to the de-