550 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


first regular meeting at Geneva, October 15, 1817.


NOTES ON CHURCH TOPICS.


The following notes gathered from reliable sources are given here :


First religious service of which we have any record was the funeral sermon preached by Joseph Badger at the funeral of Samuel Wilson, of Washington. Rev. Badger preached here later and the Methodists held a class as early as 1807.


First society was the Baptists of Jefferson and Denmark, who united. Joshua Woodworth was the minister and the date 1811. At the end of eleven years Denmark went by itself. The Methodist organization was perfected in 1811 with six members.


A church was built in 1837 at about the time of the erection of the Congregationalists' edifice.


The father of Senator Theodore E. Burton was a minister of the Congregational church.


CONNEAUT.


First religious meeting in Conneaut at the residence of Aaron Wright in 1800. First church, 1818, on Ridge road between Conneaut and Amboy. Congregational church organized at the home of Robert Montgomery, 1819. Building begun in 1826 and finished in two years. Mr. Badger organized the society on a plan of the Union, that is Congregational br Presbyterian. Baptists, in 1831, organized in school house on the South Ridge. First church erected in 1842, finished in 1844. Methodist class formed in Conneaut township at Amboy, 1823. In Conneaut village about five years later ; St. Mary's Catholic church in 1861.


The first parsonage in the Erie conference was built in Geneva 1827, on the South Ridge road. It was about a mile and a half from town. The first Methodist meeting house was built at Ashtabula in 1821. It was called the Block church.


HARPERSFIELD.


First sermon, by Mr. Badger, i800. First church of logs, 1804. The first frame church, 1830. This was a Baptist meeting house.


1836, Union church. This is still in use and in good repair.


First Methodist class in this township was at South Harpersfield.


SAYBROOK.


First services in this town were held by the Methodists, 1816.


AUSTINBURG.


The early residents of Austinburg were unusually religious. In 1800, when the three families of the township lived far apart, they held regular services. As new people came, these services were continued and were usually held at Judge Austin's residence.


The first sermon preached in this township was in 18o', and in that year a church was formed and a building erected, as stated above. Bodily exercises referred to in the general history accompanied the early revivals of this church.


ANDOVER.


The first church of Andover, 1818, was Presbyterian, and the first church organized at the Center was Congregationalist. The date of the latter was 1832.


ROME.


The first sermon preached in Rome was at the house of Elijah Crosby, by Rev. Jonathan Leslie.


First church organized by Rev. Giles H. Cowles, 1818.


PLYMOUTH.


First church organized in this town was the Episcopal, 1826. All denominations have since used their houses.


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LENOX.


Methodist formed a class in this township in 1825. Baptist formed an association in 1849.


NEW LYME.


First sermon preached by Rev. Giles H. Cowles, 1812. Free Will Baptists organized, 1826.


RICHMOND.


Methodist class organized in 1811. The second organization was Baptist, but services had been held in homes long before this.


TRUMBULL.


First sermon preached by Rev. Giles H. Cowles, 1819.


The first organization was of the Methodists, who held meetings in school houses till 1855. The organization of Disciples was perfected in 1859.


ORWELL.


Rev. Giles H. Cowles preached the first sermon in this township in 1820. Two years later the Methodists formed a class. They erected a church in .1845. Presbyterians perfected their organization in 1831 and Baptists in 1832.


PIERPONT.


Methodist class formed in 181o. In 1823 'Presbyterian church, by the Revs. Cowles and Woodruff.


In 1840 a building was erected which was used by all denominations, and later became the Pierpont Academy.


CHERRY VALLEY.


Methodist class organized in 1845. Church organized in 1840.


SHEFFIELD.


As early as 1824 the Methodists organized a church, a class having met long before that in school houses. 551


Rev. Edmond Richmond organized the Baptist church in 1835, the Free Will Baptists organizing three years later.


WILLIAMSFIELD.


As early as 1807, Rev. Joseph Badger and John Leslie preached in a log cabin at Williamsfield.


Church organized in 1816 by Cowles and Leslie.


The Methodists early had a class, and in 1820 erected a log meeting house.


WAYNE.


First services in the house of Joshua Giddings, about 1806.


The Methodists organized in 1822. First meetings held in .houses. First church built in 1840.


The Congregationalists organized, 1816.


WINDSOR.


First sermon preached at Solomon Griswold's home in 1802.


First church erected, Episcopal, 1816. It was called Solomon's Temple from Solomon Griswold.

The church of 1832, half a mile west of the center of Windsor, was dedicated by Bishop Mcllvaine.


The Methodists had a class as early as 1812, and erected their first church in 1827.


HARTSGROVE.


First religious meeting of which we have any record was held in a log cabin in 1830.


First church, Methodist, 1820.


Rev. Giles Cowles preached at Austinburg and Morgan in 1810.


First church was made of logs with puncheon floors. Hogs upset the meeting house.


First frame church on the Reserve erected in 1824. This was opposite the old log church and was a very pretentious building. It was made of white oak and had a gallery all round it ; a tower, a belfry and a spire. It took near-


552 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


ly a week to raise it. Ebenezer Church broke a bottle of whiskey on the spire.


MORGAN.


First religious services held in November, 1802, by Joseph Badger at the residence of Captain John Wright. Regular services thereafter.


ROCK CREEK.


The first church of Rock Creek was a Presbyterian, established in 1819 ; Methodist, 1822 ; Disciples, 1824.


MONROE.

First regular religious meetings were held in 1804. Joseph Badger was the minister and these meetings were held at houses.


KINGSVILLE.


First church was erected in 1821 by the Congregationalists. In 1810 they had held services in residences.


The Methodists held their meetings in a school from 1831 to 1834.


DORSET.


The first church was the Methodist and their classes were held in houses in 1825. Still in existence.


COLEBROOK.


First sermon preached in Colebrook in 182o. The first church organized was Congregational and the second, Methodist.


DENMARK.


Elder Joshua Woodruth preached the first sermon in Denmark.


First church was erected in 1832, on land belonging to Peter Knapp.


The Baptists organized the first church in 1812.


THE BIRTH ( ? ) OF MORMONISM.


The following is quoted because it relates to Ashtabula county. A history of Mormonism is given in the earlier chapters of this work.


"In 1809 to 1813, one Solomon Spaulding was engaged in business at Conneaut, and being in robust health, he spent much of his time at writing, a kind of work for which he possessed considerable talent. Being well educated, he entertained opinions on various subjects that were interesting to his acquaintances. He wrote a book entitled "Manuscript Found," which he was desirous of publishing: in fact, he submitted it to a printing firm in Pittsburg, from whose custody the manuscript years afterward mysteriously disappeared. From the strongest circumstantial evidence it is believed that Spaulding's writings—somewhat altered—served as the basis or substance of the Book of Mormon, which Joseph Smith claimed to have found underground on a hillside at Palmyra, in 1827 ; and also that Sidney Rigdon was the medium through whom Spaulding's manuscript found its way to Joseph Smith. It is not the purpose to trace the chain of evidence, nor to relate the history of Mormonism. These facts have been stated solely for the purpose of noting that on the Reserve Mormonism took the first step in its course."


NEWSPAPERS.


The early newspaper of Ashtabula county . followed eastern papers as to make-up and character of reading matter. They had little local news.


Citizens were supposed to keep track c. their neighbors' affairs quite as well, or better, than the editor. The columns were filled with essays, accounts of travel and political news of Europe.


The Ashtabula Recorder was the oldest paper in the county. It was launched in 1823. Asa W. W. Hickox and John A. Hickox were owners. That fall Ozias Bowen, a practical printer, became a member of the firm in the place of John A. Hickox. He withdrew the following year and Asa W. W. Hickox and.


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 553


A. S. Park were owners. Later Hugh Lowry owned it and in 1826, after three years' existence, it died. These men, -Messrs. Hickox, Park and Lowry, continued in the printing business. Hickox, although a printer, was always poor and unsuccessful, although he lived about fifty years after the Recorder was established. The statements made in some historical sketches of Ashtabula county, namely, that Deacon Hickox died in the county infirmary, the author does not credit. That so earnest a citizen should have had such an ending to an honorable life does not seem possible. In response to a letter asking for facts about Mr. Hickox, Henry H. Hall, of Ashtabula, writes : "I am nearly seventy-four years of age. In my boyhood days Deacon Hickox lived in East Ashtabula. I knew him well. He had a son, quite an old boy, they went every Sunday morning to the Baptist church in this city, the boy following the old gentleman in their walk. It's one of my early recollections. The records of the Baptist church in this city show that on December 24, 1824, he was a committee to draw up articles of faith ; on the following day was appointed clerk and served as such 1827-30, 1831-3 and 1838-43. On April 29, 1848, he asked for a letter for himself and wife Anna ; also for his sons Carlos and Alonzo, as they were about to remove from

Ashtabula "


Messrs. Park and Lowry later were interested in the Journal. When the Recorder died people missed it, s we often do departed things, and in August, 1826, the Western Journal was born. It was published by R. W. Griswold, whom the writer supposes was the owner. In November, 1827, Park and Terrill bought it and published it until 1838, when Hugh Lowry became proprietor. Mr. Lowry was a peculiar character. He was very bright, uneducated, standing rather aloof from the world, and he added to his newspaper duty his own housework. His two brothers, Robert and Samuel, helped him. The author does not now whether they were helpers in both branches of work, or only in that department which is supposed to be man's domain. We rather infer Hugh alone was the queen of the home, since Robert indulged too frequently in the wine which is red. Housekeepers seldom do that. It is hardly fair to make this record, however, because Robert did not stand alone in this class in his county.


In 1829 the Western Journal was enlarged and the name Ashtabula substituted for Western. Under that name it existed for two years when it was discontinued because of Mr. Lowry's failing health.


At this time the people in Conneaut wanted a newspaper, or probably some men in Conneaut thought they could make money from a newspaper, and they bought the press and the printing material and established the Salem Advertiser, of which 0. K. Knapp was editor. In 1853 W. C. Howells and J. L. Oliver bought this and moved it to Jefferson.


The Conneaut News-Herald came into existence January 1, 1907, being a consolidation of the Conneaut Daily Post-Herald and the Conneaut Evening News. It is published by the Conneaut Printing Company, Walter E. Putnam, general manager.


It will be seen by consulting the foregoing dates, that The Advertiser had a longer life than the papers of its time. In the meantime several papers were started in Ashtabula county. In 1834 there was the Democratic Free Press; in 1833, the Ashtabula Republican; in 1852, the Ashtabula Democrat. Another short-lived paper of later date was the Ashtabula Jeffersonian, 1870.


The Geneva Times, established in 1866 by H. H. Thorp, was edited by Warren P. Spencer. Two years later it was sold to Spencer and Carey A. Vaughn. At this time it was enlarged. In 1873 Mr. Vaughn sold his half to Henry W. Lindergreen, and Mr. Spencer continued the publication. Mr. Spencer belonged to the famous Spencer family. Laura Rosamond White, who has studied the history of Ashtabula well, says that Mr. Spencer "was


554 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


an ideal editor" and "that he had blended in his nature the poetical and practical. He had solid judgment, with a vein of humor. His paper, according to data, was for a long while a helpful factor and prominent feature on the Western Reserve."


The Geneva Weekly Free Press was established in 1876, and in 1899 J. D. Field bought it of Ferd Lee and Nate Hawley. Mr. Lee had owned it, or an interest in it, for about ten years.


The Daily Free Press was established in 1900 by J. D. Field and in 1901 he also bought the Times and consolidated both subscription lists under the name of the Daily Free Press-Times, discontinuing both weeklies.


The Ashtabula Sentinel was the oldest and best known paper in Ashtabula county. In 1832 thirteen men formed a company for its publication. There certainly was no superstition in this deal. Among the early editors were 0. H. Fitch and James Graham. In 1837 Messrs. Parkman and Fassett bought the paper, but Mr. Fassett continued with it only about a year. Mr. Park had charge of it about seven months, when Mr. Fassett (Henry) bought the property and edited the paper until 1839. The next. year 0. H. Fitch was editor and the succeeding year Mr. Fassett resumed his duties) He continued to be the editor for many years. S. S. Fassett was associated with him as publisher. At one time S. S. Nellis was connected with the paper and for five or six months Mr. Hendry took his place. From Noumber, 1844, to March, 1848, A. and S. Hendry were publishers, the latter being editor. J. Burton was printer. In 1848, Henry Fassett and Company bought all the interests and J. A. Giddings, a son of Joshua R., became editor.


In 1851, Henry Fassett, who it seems from the records was unable to, divorce himself from his property, succeeded Giddings as editor and sold a half interest to W. C. Howells, the father of William Dean and J. A. Howells, and some member of this illustrious family was connected with the paper, as publisher or editor, or both, until 1909 ; that is, nearly fifty years. It then became the property of E. C. and R. D. Lampson.


The Jefferson Gazette was founded in 1876 by Daniel Lee & Son, who later sold their interests and went to Geneva, where they founded the Geneva Free Press. The Gazette was purchased in 1883 by E. L. Lampson and has since remained in the Lampson family. Later E. L. Lampson sold a half interest to his brother, R. D. Lampson, and after making some improvements the former owner bought the half interest of his partner and assumed the full control: R. D. Lampson went to Warren, where he organized the Warren Daily Tribune. In 1896 E. C. Lampson leased the newspaper business from his father and has since been the editor of the paper. In 1902 he purchased the Jefferson Gazette from E. L Lampson and changed it from a weekly to a triweekly. In 1905 E. C. Lampson sold a half interest to R. D. Lampson, who became the business manager. The plant was destroyed by fire on June 1, 1906, but before the walls of their three-story brick building had fallen E. C. & R. D. Lampson had rented rooms and while their plant was still blazing had left the village for Cleveland to buy a new publishing outfit. Two days later the Gazette appeared as usual. The newspaper is now housed in a fine two-story brick block, belonging to E. L. Lampson, and has a large and satisfactory country business. On October 7, 1909, E. C. & R. D. Lampson purchased the Ashtabula Sentinel plant and good will and now publish the newspaper from the Gazette plant. The incorporated stockholders of the Lampson Printing Company are E. C. Lampson, R. D. Lampson, E. L. Lampson, Pearl Lampson and Isabelle Lampson.


The second oldest paper in Ashtabula cou ty, the Ashtabula Telegraph, was started 1852 by N. W. Thayer. W. E. Scardale was the editor. In 1853 it became the property of John Booth. It was not paying property, and


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 555


in 1855 people who had advanced money to have it continued were dissatisfied, and Messrs. Willard, Hendry and Morrison bought it. So anxious was everybody to have it succeed that creditors gave up their claims to these men provided they would run it. This was agreed to.


R. W. Handford was editor. In 1856 James Reed bought the paper and after many years of hard work he made it a financial success. In 1873 his son became his partner. In the following year the paper was enlarged and had a long and useful career. In later years it was sold to Scott & Rennek and is now published by the Ashtabula Printing Company. The Conneaut Citizen was started in 1871. C. G. Guffey was editor and proprietor. In 1873 it was moved to Jefferson. Soon it be- came the property of A. F. Sperry, and Mr. Sperry began the publishing. of the Ashtabula Yews. Four years later, it was enlarged, N. C. Hawley purchased a half interest which he sold to E. J. Griffin and A. F. Sperry.


In 1852 the Western Reserve Farmer and Dairyman was, published at Jefferson and merged into thee Ohio Farmer.


A Democratic paper was published in 1877 by Sherman, Rote and Fardon, with Henry Apthorp editor..


In December, 1872, J. S. Morley and D. S. Calkins started the Enterprise at Andover. The latter was editor.. This continued for ten years, when Mr. Morley re-equipped it and Mr. Coffin became editor. The following year, 1875, Mr. Morley became sole manager, and six months later fie sold the stock and closed out the business.


The Andover Citizen was established in 1882. At different times it has been owned by. J. S. Morley, Messrs. Bond and Montgomery, James Dow, Dow & Johnson, F. V. Bosworth and N. G. Richardson (present proprietor). It has been Republican since 1896. So far as the author knows the only paper blished or edited by women in Ashtabula county was the Plea for the Oppressed. This was short-lived and was issued in the cause of anti-slavery. The talented Betsey Cowles was editor.


When Mr. Virgil P. Kline, of Cleveland, was asked by the author whether he edited a small paper in 1859-60, which was issued from the Gazette office, he replied : "Yes, 1 will plead. guilty to being one of two boys who, when we were about sixteen years old, published, for a year, what was known as the Young American, at Conneaut. My boy and college companion, now the Hon. 0. M. Hall, of Red. Wing, Minnesota, was my associate. He continued it for a year after I dropped out, changed its politics, and made it a better paper."


The Ohio Luminary shed its first light in Jefferson. It was an anti-Mason paper. Mr. Allen, of Conneaut, was one of the most energetic newspaper men the county has ever had. The credit of founding the Reporter was due to him. At one time he and Mr. Finch issued from the Gazette office The Budget, a daily paper devoted to the troubles in Canada. Mr. Allen used to walk to the Harbor each night to get the news which the vessel "the Bridget" brought in.


VISIONS OF PRINTER HOWELLS.


William Dean Howells in an article published this year, 1910, in Harper's Bazar, on his boyhood, says : "I was really living by my handicraft of printer, which I loved and rejoiced in ; but there was the future, which did not fail to recall itself to me at times, and trouble the visions which swam round me in the long afternoons when I was distributing my case. I do not know what golden hours the operator of a linotype machine may now know ; I will not deny them ; but I doubt if he is ever so rapt from the sense of work as a compositor might be fifty or sixty years ago when he was renewing the sources of his next day's work. It was a mechanical employment, yes, and it involved the shame which still waits on handiwork, but I was no more conscious


556 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


of the flying types than the pianist is of the throbbing keys. If I could again be transported so far from myself, I would be glad of the same means ; but, perhaps, one must be nineteen or twenty for the full effect of the magic ; the force of that is not increased by the increase of the years to seventy-three."


NEWSPAPERS Now PUBLISHED.


The following is a list of papers now published in the county :


The Jefferson Gazette, E. C. Lampson, editor ; R. D. Lampson, manager.


The Ashtabula Sentinel, E. C. Lampson, editor ; R. D. Lampson, manager.


The Beacon Record and the Ashtabula Telegraph are published by the Beacon Record Printing Company, P. C. Remick, president and manager, and W. W. Totheroh, editor. W. W. Scott, who was business manager of the Beacon Record, died about the time this volume was written.


The Democratic Standard, C. A. Corbin, editor.


The Ashtabula Independent, E. J. Hancock, editor.


The Amerikan Sanomat and Suometar, August Edwards, editor.


The Free Press-Times, Geneva, J. D. Field, editor.


The Conneaut News Herald, F. A. Churchill, editor.


The Andover Citizen, N. G. Richardson, editor.


The Orwell News Letter, Hal Olds, editor.


The Rock Creek Signal, H. W. Miller, editor.


The Amerikan Sanomat, owned by August Edwards, is a Finnish paper, published in Ashtabula. It has existed under its present name since 1897. Before that it was called Yhdyswaltain Sanomat, which dates back to 1884. It is a weekly and has a good circulation.


Probably the latest paper to be issued in Ashtabula county is the Evening Independent, which began September 4, 1909. It is inde pendent in politics ; a daily ; has a large circulation, and E. J. Hancock is editor and general manager.


The News-Letter, of Orwell, was established the last day of July, 1890, by Charles J. Olds, who was its first editor and owner. In 1894, Hal W. Olds became owner and editor. It is a weekly and Republican. At one time the Orwell Item was edited by A. R. Woolsey.


The Democratic Standard was established in November, 1876, by Dan J. Sherman, of Ashtabula, and R. O. Rote, of Geneva. These two men were also the editors. In 1891 Mr. C. A. Corbin, then superintendent of the Kingsville schools, bought out Sherman and Rote and edited the paper until 1893, when the Standard Publishing Company was formed, Mr. Corbin continuing as editor. From 1893 to 1898 this firm published a daily, but it had to be abandoned as there were not enough Democrats in the county to support a paper.


TOWN AND TOWNSHIP NOTES.


In 1808 a township, including the presen Kingsville, Sheffield, Plymouth and Ashtabula, was formed which was named Ashtabula. Hall Smith,who owned a portion of land which "extended northward below the Lake Shore depot and westward to the northern end of West street," built a log house which he used as a residence and a store. In 1813 he built a frame house which is used as the present Children's Home.


PREMIUM ON MOTHERHOOD.


Nehemiah Hubbard was the first permanent settler in Ashtabula, and Mrs. Joseph Kerr, who was the mother of the first white child born in that town, received fifty dollars from Mr. Hubbard as a premium.


FIRST ASHTABULA MERCHANT HALL SMITH


Mr. Smith's store was the first store in Ashtabula. He had so many interests that he borrowed a large amount of money at the West-


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 557


ern Reserve Bank, and in the depression which followed the war of 1812 he became so involved that he executed a deed of trust to John Kinsman, of Kinsman. Later John Kinsman sold the property to his nephew, Frederick Kinsman, whose homestead now stands on the beautiful Mahoning avenue in Warren, and Frederick proceeded to plot this ground and it was known as the Kinsman's flats. Part of it was rented for farms. It sold very slowly and as late as 1848 Carso Crane, who was visiting a relative, purchased the land for $6,000.


It is sad to relate that this: Mr. Hall Smith who had done so much for the improvement of the town and was a man of ability should have lost his mind and his money, and died in the county infirmary in 1864. He was the last person buried in the old cemetery on Division street.


HIGH PRICES OF 1855.


The Ashtabula Sentinel, of Jefferson, under date of February, 1910, says : "In an account book kept by the late W. K. Titus, of Jefferson, in the year 1855, recording his local transactions from the wholesale firm of Betcher, Mead & Titus, of New York, are found a number of items of interest and the names of former prominent men of this vicinity.


"Some of the prices also indicate that the cost of living. in 1855 was a great deal more strenuous than it is in 1910.


* * * *


"Three and a quarter yards of blue cloth to Abner Kellogg for $17.88. Bleached sheeting sold at 16 cents per yard.


A keg of gunpowder to Aaron Watrous for $6.


* * * * * * *


"A quantity of band iron to C. C. Wick at 4 cents per pound.


"On February 17, 1855, he sold to Senator B. F. Wade at Wholesale $49.09 of goods consisting

of one box of raisins for $4.50, two boxes of sperm candles for lighting his residence, $26.40; one box of Imperial tea for $13.50 and twenty-five pounds of Java coffee $4.69. Coffee was as cheap then as now.


"A barrel of molasses to Robert Riley for 46 cents per gallon.


"To another customer : a dozen collars for $2.50, two cravats for $5.50, three silk handkerchiefs for $3.38 and six pairs of socks for $1.50.


"B. F. Wade bought some black cloth on February 20, 1855, and paid $8 per yard for it. On the same day Congressman-Giddings bought $101.26 worth of goods, paying 10 cents per pound for a barrel of sugar, some coffee, tea and two boxes of sperm candles."


AN INDIAN SCARE AT CONNEAUT.


The Indians in Ashtabula were in the beginning very friendly with the whites, but when the war of 1812 came on the inhabitants of Conneaut were quite as afraid of their former friends as they were of the British. Seeing a boat approaching one afternoon, one of the settlers gave an alarm and soon the cabins were deserted and the frightened people, largely women and children, remained in the woods all night. They knew their village was to be burned and that probably they would be massacred. Next morning they returned to find everything unmolested. It turned out that the boat was from Erie, carrying persons who were thinking of locating there, but when the captain found he was frightening the inhabitants he went on toward Cuyahoga.


ASHTABULA SCHOOLS.


The first school house built in Ashtabula stood at the juncture of Jefferson and South Ridge. The first teacher was Julia Hubbard, the second, Achsah Nettleton. The first school at the Center was taught by Sarah Booth, in 1815. It was held in Amos Fisk's barn, which had been done off as a store room. In 1816 school was held in Freeman's Hall, Rev. John Hall teacher. In 183o Richard Roberts assisted Mr. Hall. In 1821 there was a private


558 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


school "on the Square in the East village." This was burned in 1826.


In 1832 the Ashtabula Academy was incorporated. This was managed, as were all academies of that time, by a company of gentlemen. The incorporators were Matthew Hubbard, Russell Clark, R. W. Griswold, W. W. Reed, Amos Fisk, Philo Booth and Gad Loveland. For twenty years the youth of Ashtabula committed dull pages to memory, worked out intricate sums, had their spelling matches and their geography and singing. Mary Ann Fuller and Miss M. E. Marsh were among the early teachers. In 1851 a new building was erected, which cost nearly two thousand dollars. This was three stories and the Masons and Odd Fellows occupied the upper floor. As St. Peter's was, and is, an influential parish, it was not strange that it should early have a parochial school. This was established in 1851. The rector of the church and other clergymen taught, and the assistants were women. In 1856 the public school system was established, and since that time the schools have been among the best in Ohio. At present they have, aside from the classical ; scientific, commercial and manual training courses.


Ashtabula schools are most excellent. The last report of the school commissioners (1908) shows the total value of the school property to be $550,000. The enumeration of children of school age in Ashtabula, in 19o8, was 3,263 ; pupils enrolled for that year, 2,502.


ASHTABULA SOLDIERS' MONUMENT.


On the lawn beside the city hall in Ashtabula is a monument which bears this inscription : "Erected in memory of the soldiers and sailors of the Civil war, their mothers and wives by James Lewis." The monument is of gray Vermont granite, surmounted by a bronze eagle. It was dedicated Decoration day with appropriate services and entrusted to the care of the Paulus Post of the Grand Army of the Republic. This is one of the few monuments dedicated to the women of the war, as well as to the men, and it is not to be left in the care of men to be ruined by the elements when there shall be no Grand Army Men ; the monument will be cared for by the women, since any loyal woman can be a member of the Woman's Relief Corps, while only those who were really enlisted are eligible to membership in the Grand Army of the Republic.




SOLDIERS' MONUMENT, ASHTABULA.


THE TERRIBLE RAILROAD DISASTER.


Many people in the United States who know nothing of this country, nor of its largest

town and river, are acquainted with the name because of the terrible railroad disaster which occurred December 29, 1876. A fast express train, running over the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern west, was precipitated into the river by the breaking of the bridge. It was a bitter night, the earth covered with snow and ice. At least eighty people perished, five


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE- 559


dying after they were rescued. Sixty-three were wounded, and those who survived suffered torture from the shock. The citizens did everything they possibly could in caring for the injured and taking care of the bodies of the dead. Prominent officers of the road in Cleve-land and eminent physicians from that city were soon on the scene. P. P. Bliss and wife were the most widely known people who lost their lives.


The coroner's jury found that this bridge had not been properly constructed and censured the railroad company whose engineers had passed upon it, after the inspectors had visited it, as provided by law. Undoubtedly graft entered into the construction and some men, for money's sake, caused all this fearful destruction of predious lives.


One of the things for which the United States is justly criticised is the lax way in which our laws provide for the punishment of railroad officials and employees who are responsible for the deaths of travelers. If these same men had waylaid, robbed and killed, these same passengers, they would have been punished ; some of them might have been hung.


OTHER ASHTABULA ITEMS.


From the record gathered and preserved by H. L. Morrison, we learn that Seth Thayer came to Ashtabula about 1805. He was a surveyor and a sailor and in a few years brought his family and settled on what is known as Woodland Beach park. His granddaughter, Phoebe Bart, became a missionary for the Episcopal church and died on the west coast of Africa.


Gideon Leet, settled in 1806, on what is now Columbus street. He kept a tavern and was Ashtabula's first postmaster. He was chosen to four public offices in 1808—namely : overseer, fence viewer, supervisor of highways and justice of the peace.


David Burnett, Josiah White, David White and Samuel White came in 1806 and settled at what is now known as Plymouth. They were additions to the community.


An early settler, Enoch Fuller is remembered particularly because his wife bore "the euphonious name of Karenhappuch." He had a large family of daughters whose descendants still live on the Reserve. His son Josiah was a stage driver, later a liveryman and finally settled on a farm in Saybrook. He was a great Mason, went to the conclave at San Francisco and was the life of the party.


In 1804, Matthew Hubbard, of Trenton, New York, as agent for Nehemiah Hubbard, started for the Western Reserve. Three years before, Thomas Hamilton had built a cabin on the west side of the river near the mouth, but he had not remained long. Mrs. Beck, with, as we have seen, lived here, but the Hubbard family was the first substantial family to take up its residence within the limits of the present town, and from that day to this some member of the Hubbard family, bearing the Hubbard name, has been a resident of the city.


Rossetta Luce Gilchrist, M. D., is one of the distinguished women citizens of Ashtabula county. She now practices her profession in Ashtabula, and her family belonged to the county. Her father was one of the seven men who voted for the Giddings' Abolition ticket. Dr. Gilchrist is not only a physician, but an author as well, having written several books which have received a good deal of attention. She has a good practice and a fine standing in the community.


THE PRESENT CITY OF ASHTABULA.


Ashtabula is by far the largest and most prosperous city of the county. Including the harbor, which is a city of itself, there is nothing compared to it on the 'lake shore of the Western Reserve east of Cleveland. It is like the ordinary western city in the way it is laid, its buildings constructed, its business carried on. It has retailed almost none of its early Puritan appearance, although among the old settlers many customs and beliefs are still retained. Unlike most of the towns in Ashtabula county, it has a large population of foreigners


560 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


from the north of Europe and in politics is of ten Democratic.


Hon. H. L. Morrison in the Beacon Record of Ashtabula, January 28, says, "The first government work ever done on the Harbor was in 1827, when piers were built out into the lake and finished out a little beyond the old lighthouse crib, a few timbers of which are still to be seen. The first lighthouse was erected in 1834-35, and prior to its erection a light was displayed by hanging a lantern at the top of a twenty-foot pole that was erected on the end of the pier."


The population of Ashtabula city in 1909 was 19,000 ; its area, eight and one-half square miles. Its citizens claim that it raises. the largest quantity of winter vegetables under glass of any place in the United States. More large boats come into Ashtabula harbor than in New York or Philadelphia. It has natural gas, electric lights, local and interurban street cars, good water supply, paved streets, good parks, public library, fine Y. M. C. A., unexcelled schools, and a first class hospital.


In making an investigation for the improvements for Ashtabula harbor, the War Department submitted to congress a number of important statements, among which are the following:


Number of vessels arriving in the year 1908 1,129

Number of vessels departing 1,114

Total number of net tons of coal handled 2,421,371.8

Total number of net tons ore handled 3,378,822




PORT OF ASHTABULA IN 1873.


Total value of freight handled $18,649,733. 36

Total registered tonnage, vessels entering and departing 1908 5,729,470

Total registered tonnage, vessels entering and departing 1909 11,486,219


An increase over last year of nearly a hundred per cent.


ENORMOUS ORE PORT.


W. Frank McClure, one of the most valued associate editors of the Western Reserve history,

has contributed the following: "In the




HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 561


early days of the industry the ore at Ashtabula was taken in wheelbarrows from the vessels to the clocks. Vessels carried as few as three hundred tons, which is interesting in comparison with the cargoes of eleven thousand to twelve thousand tons which now enter the port in ships of from 500 to 600 feet long. The ore at this port is now removed from ships by mechanically operated buckets, some of which hold fifteen tons each. These buckets remove the ore from the vessel with practically no shovelers at work in the hold. Thousands of men were employed at Lake Erie ports but a very few years ago in the cargo compartments of the vessels, filling the small buckets by hand. A vessel is now unloaded at Ashtabula at the rate of more than two thousand tons per hour. Coal is dumped in car-dumping machines by the carload and the cars hold fifty tons each. Gravity yards fake the place of locomotives in switching.


"The greatest ore-carrying railroads in the world have their northern terminals at Ashtabula and Conneaut, and perhaps Cleveland might be included in the list. One hundred car trains go south from Ashtabula harbor to the furnaces, and the railroads are spending large amounts in double-tracking, reducing grades and other improvements to further facilitate the traffic.


"Historic Fort Hill at Ashtabula harbor has recently been leveled to the ground to make room for new docks. Both the Pennsylvania and the Lake Shore companies are spending millions in dock improvements, yards and new machinery on the lake front. The government has spent much in new breakwater outside the harbor.


"Work has just begun on a new shipyard of lie Great. Lakes Engineering Company at Ashtabula, which is to cost in the neighborhood of two million dollars, together with the shops to be built, it is said. Ashtabula's live Chamber of Commerce had much to do with securing this industry.


"Conneaut harbor is also equipped with


Vol. I-136


numerous modern ore-handling machinery and for a time, in fact, led all other ports in this respect. It was here that the first automatic ore unloaders were erected, and this was made a thoroughly model port from a mechanical standpoint, Andrew Carnegie taking particular interest in its development.


"Ashtabula's ore traffic last year amounted to more than eight million tons. Recently this port has become, through the opening 'of the new Franklin & Clearfield railroad, a shipping point for hard coal from important Pennsylvania fields."


GENEVA'S EARLY SETTLERS.



Geneva was one of the spots on the lake shore which attracted the early eastern settler. At that time it was included in the township of Harpersfield and was not set apart until 1816.


In 1805 the first emigrants appeared, the first party being Theobald Bartholomew, his wife ; Abigail, his brother's widow, and, of course, their children. These first corners were stalwart people, all three of them. They were ready for anything which might come to them, since nothing in the new home could equal their experience of the old. The stories of their past undoubtedly helped to while away many tedious hours of their "fellow townsmen," for Mr. and Mrs. Bartholomew had been captured by Brandt in 1778, the night before the attack on Fort Charlotte, and although released without harm they traveled in the snow, carrying their babies and arousing the inhabitants to their danger. Mr. Bartholomew had been a soldier in the war of the Revolution, and Mrs. Abigail Bartholomew was one of the persons inside Fort Charlotte at the time of the attack, and had helped to defend it. The true tales which they related were not ordinary ones, and their descendants are proud of their achievements.


Levi Gaylord, who reached Geneva in 1806, was widely *flown throughout the Reserve in his time. As a boy he served with the Revo-


562 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


lutionary forces and saw Washington, Lafayette and like officers. He was a sterling character and had great influence for good during his lifetime. He was a representative in the Ohio legislature in 1817, when the territory included most of the counties lying on the lake. His granddaughter, Parthenia Gaylord, married Warren P. Spencer, the editor and nephew of Platt R. Spencer, and thus were united two of the oldest and most influential families.


From early times the tone of Geneva life has been high. Schools have been excellent, desire for culture great and, on the whole, the moral and mental atmosphere above the average.


TOWN OF CONNEAUT.


Conneaut was one of the first towns settled in Ashtabula county. Thomas Montgomery and Aaron Wright were the pioneers. They were from Harpersfield, New York, and had expected to settle with friends at Harpersfield, but when they passed through Conneaut they were so pleased with the place they stopped. Their settling was the easiest of the pioneers, because they occupied the two houses which the surveyors had built and found land which had been worked both by the Indians and Stowe, who had charge of the provisions of the surveying party. As early as 1786, a squatter named Halsted was in East Conneaut very near the state road. He, the Kingsburys and surveyors had preceded Aaron Wright, but they were not actual settlers.


Conneaut was first called Salem. The first house was erected by Mathew King in 1799 on the north bank of Conneaut creek.


A HUNTER'S ADVENTURE.


One of the most interesting events occurring to a resident of Conneaut was the adventure of Mr. Sweatland, who lived near the mouth of Conneaut creek. It was from this creek which the Seneca Indians named Conneaut, meaning "many fish," that the town took its name. Mr. Sweatland was a great sportsman and delighted in taking deer. He and a neigh bor, Mr. Cousins, arranged that the latter should go into the woods with his dog, start the deer towards the lake, and that Sweatland should capture it from his dug-out. On a certain fall morning this program was partially carried out. Mr. Cousins chased a lusty stag into the water and Sweatland began chasing it in his clumsy boat. So intent was the man on capturing the animal, and so strong was the latter, that before he realized it the hunter was far out into the lake. The stag turned for the shore and when the man attempted to follow he found a high wind had arisen and that he could make no headway against it. He could still see the shore, but could not attain it. He was young and brave and strong and did not despair, and was buffeted about for thirty ( ?) hours and then landed on the Canadian shore forty miles from any inhabitants. Although pretty well exhausted, he managed to reach a hamlet, was fed and cared for, and later took passage for Ashtabula Harbor, and upon his arriving home learned that his funeral sermon had been preached and his wife donned mourning garments.


CONNEAUT HARBOR IN 1850.


In 1850, Conneaut Harbor was an active place. As some of the largest ships on the lake were built here, the getting out of the lumber for the same was quite an industry. Mr. A. L: Webster, of Danville, Illinois, writes : "About 1850 Conneaut Harbor was the scene of 'quite an activity in shipbuilding. Some of the best vessels sailing the lakes were built in the Conneaut shipyard, and Conneaut was the home of scores of lake captains, whose names were familiar from Buffalo to Chicago. The writer recalls the names of Captains C. W. Appleby, M. Capron, L. B. Goldsmith, Harrison Perry and Charles Howard, Cyrenus Blood, James Tubbs, Andrew Lent, Orange Capron, Captain DeWolf, Wiard, Foster, Travers, Wood ; and there are many more. In those days the regions about the Harbor were covered with great piles of lumber, as


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 563


neaut was considerable of a lumber market, many vessels being engaged in the trade. I mention these items of Conneaut's early history, as I have never lost my interest in the old Ohio home." Conneaut, from the day of its beginning, has grown steadily and the railroad interests there have added greatly to its success.


GIDDINGS' RECOLLECTIONS OF CONNEAUT.


Joshua R. Giddings, in a speech made in 1853 at Wayne; speaking of coming to the Western Reserve, said : "We reached Conneaut on June 16, a day rendered memorable by the





ORE DOCKS AT CONNEAUT.


total eclipse of the sun. Coming down the old salt road which ran near the center of the first range of towns nearly. to the south line of Williamsfield, we cut a road across the farm now occupiedd by Captain Stanhope, and reached the Pymatuning at the point where the bridge on thee south road in Wayne now stands. Here lye descended to the low bottom lands, and following down the stream until we passed the mouth of the small creek which empties in from the west, we forded the creek ; then turning to the right, we crossed the small stream And ascended a handsome plateau, where we found an Indian wigwam. Here we halted for the night. It was near the close of a beautiful day in June, just as the sun was casting its last lingering rays upon the tops of the trees on the high grounds east of us, that we unyoked our oxen, and took possession of the desolated wigwam. Here we ate our suppers, and found our first night's lodging in the township of our future residence. Ours was the first wagon that crossed the Pymatuning in Wayne, and the sixth family that settled within its territory. The next morning, being June 25th, we resumed our journey." They finally made their homes in Wayne.


CONNEAUT SCHOOLS.


The academy at Conneaut in 1846 was in excellent condition. Mr. L. W. Savage and Miss Mary Booth were the principals. Conneaut schools have very high standing and the lately erected building is a model one. The enumeration of school children in 1908 was 1,884 and the number of pupils enrolled that year 1,405.


THE KINGSVILLE ACADEMY


The Kingsville Academy, opened in 1836, was for more than a third of a century the


564 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


leading school in northeastern Ohio. Among the men attending there, who afterwards became known, were Judge A. W. Tourgee and Hon. J. C. Burrows. Mrs. Susan Osborne was the first principal. She was a woman of extraordinary ability ; a writer of prose and verse, and contributed to the literary weeklies and magazines over the pen name of "Lily Lindeswood."


GIRL HUNTRESS AND MAIL CARRIER.


In 1800 Solomon Griswold, a widower with six daughters, arrived in Windsor, having been long delayed en route. This was a gay household and the daughters, all of them, seemed efficient. Fanny, the fourth, was rather inclined to man's work. She was an excellent shot, carried her gun with her when she went any distance into the woods, and the leather-covered trunk and her shoes, which she took with her when she went east to school, were made from the skin of a deer which she had killed. She once shot seven wild turkeys. She carried the mail between Windsor and Austinburg, following the patch between blazed trees. She and her sister, Ursula, raised fruits and vegetables. They also walked eight miles to church and it is recorded that "they did not disturb the services by coming in late."


CIVIL WAR MONUMENT AT WINDSOR.


One of the attractive spots in Windsor is the Soldiers' Monument which was dedicated June 1908. This was erected to the soldiers .and sailors who were in the war of the Rebellion. Twelve years previous to the date of erection, the women of Windsor decided that a monument should be raised for the soldiers of their town and, after toiling hard, they raised a few hundred dollars and—what most people raise when they start in on new projects—that is, opposition. After a time Mr. Erastus Griswold made a house-to-house canvass and procured the remaining subscription, the shaft costing a thousand dollars. When the monument was unveiled, Mr. Griswold pulled the string and was really the hero of the day. Be it to the credit of the Windsor people, that on the base of the monument Windsor women were given the credit for the work they did.


Governor Luce, of Michigan, was born in Windsor.


TOWNSHIP OF NEW LYME.


The township of New Lyme was purchased for fifteen cents an acre. It was then owned by Connecticut and sold to the Connecticut Land Company in 1795. The first settler was Mr. Joel Owen. When Mr. Owen and his family arrived in November, 1803, they found six Indians encamped on their land. They all lived peacefully together, and Mr. Owen was seven years in the town before there was another arrival.


Certain lands in the township were fertilized by pigeons which resorted there in great numbers, roosting in the second-growth timber. On this land the first settlers raised 600 bushels of corn in the ear to the acre.


Mrs. Tuckerman, in writing of New Lyme, says, that when. Elijah Brown and companions started west the women and children occupied wagons drawn by horses, and in the center were beds for the children, and in a basket "swung up to the' cover of the wagon was the infant six weeks old, son of Rumsey and Mary Ann Reeve." It is said that the mother of this baby when they started was sickly, but gained strength all the way. Mrs. Elijah Brown was especially skilled in weaving straw hats. Mrs. Judge Deming said she remembered seeing her mother mount her horse with a string of twenty-three hats hanging down each side of her, and a large roll of cloth fastened on behind. She was taking them to Austinburg to trade them for necessities.


MRS. HURLBERT'S RECOLLECTIONS.


E. L. Lampson writing interestingly in the Jefferson Gazette from Washington, says: "The other day I took a stroll over to The Zoo and just as I reached the entrance of the great


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE- 565


government park where Uncle Sam keeps and cares for the animals gathered from every clime I met John Hervey, of Chicago, a former Jefferson boy, who has won fame and success in writing about the noblest of all animals, the horse. The first bunch we came upon was some twenty deer grazing on a hill side. It was at this time that Mrs. G. E. Hurlbert, who was with me, became decidedly interested. 'Why,' she said, 'my father killed 499 of those pretty creatures in the woods along Grand River in Orwell and vicinity, as shown by the record on his old powder horn. 'The first stove he ever had in his house, he secured in exchange for dried venison. Her mother had ridden on horseback from Orwell to Warren through the woods, with 'a babe in her arms and carried a bag full of deer-skin mittens, which she had made and taken there to trade for household supplies. So the deer carried Mrs. H. back to childhood days, but we soon came upon three yak, an animal something like a buffalo, and here again this girl of eighty summers was reminded that the boys .of today did not have warm buffalo robes to. wrap up their sweethearts in when they went for a winter's sleigh ride as they did when she was a girl."


Orwell was the township first drafted in the drawing of the Land Company. Moses Cleave-land was one of the owners.


ANDOVER AND ITS FAMOUS SPRINGS.


The people of the Western Reserve were exceedingly undemonstrative. That was part of their inheritance. Andover is very near the state line. Epsyville is very near. Some of the younger people of Andover preferred to go to church at Epsyville, because the church members and attendants greeted them so warmly and the whole air was sunnier.


Andover is a thriving town because of its railroads and its mineral springs. On one hun-




ANDOVER BAND ABOUT 1856.


dred acres underlying the village is found three layers or stratas of sea sand, separated by rock, and each being well supplied with abundance of the finest of pure water. The first or upper strata, ninety feet below surface, shows the following analysis :



Calcium Oxide

Magnesium Oxide

Sodium Oxide

Sulphuric Acid

Chlorine

88

29

29

17

25

5.2

1.7

1.5

1.0

1.5

566 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE

Silicon Oxide

Iron and Aluminum

Total Solids

Oxygen consumed by moist

combination

Free Ammonia

Albuminoid Ammonia

Nitrites

In probable combination :

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Sulphate

Calcium Sulphate

Calcium Carbonate

Magnesium Carbonate

8

None

305

...

10.72

0.05

0.05

None

...

41

Trace

29

135

61

...

...

1.8

...

...

...

...

...

...

2.4

...

17.0

8.0

3.6





Iodine is also found in quantity, and is an important healing element discovered only in twd other of the great health-giving spring's in America. Salt is also evident in its composition and it is also highly charged with magnetism, quickly magnetising any steel implement or tool. For years the effect of the use of this water has been marked in the great age reached by residents of the locality 1904 the waters have been developed, bath houses erected and most satisfactory results attained. This gives the Western Reserve a prominence to health seekers found in few other places.


JOSHUA R. GIDDINGS.


The names of Giddings and Wade are so closely linked together in the minds of people today that one is seldom spoken of without the other. They sleep together in the picturesque cemetery in Jefferson. They were the two Most noted citizens Ashtabula ever has had. They Were partners at law shared the same political fate, stood for the same moral questions and it seems appropriate that as they lived together their bodies should rest together. They differed in temperament and in ability, but each was a great soul, working out the problems of his own life, as well as the great problems of the nation. Joshua R. Giddings belonged to the same family that did Nathaniel Hawthorne and Rufus Choate. He was born in Athens, Pennsylvania, but when six weeks old was carried to Canadaigua then the output of .civilization by his family, where he lived until he was ten. Joshua Giddings, the father, taking his oldest son, pushed on into northern Ohio and took up land in Wayne township. It is pitiful to record that when he was an old man, when he and his family had given the better fart of their lives to the improvement of this property, it was lost because of poor title and the failure of a certain party early interested in it.


In 1806 Mr. Giddings brought his entire family to the township where he and his son built a cabin and cleared a bit of land ; and here Joshua R. really began life. In his eastern home he had learned his alphabet and possibly had a little instruction, but of this we are not sure. His son-in-law, Hon. George Julian, who married his youngest daughter, Laura, said he only attended school a few weeks in all his life. "He studied. late at night by the fire-light in his father's cabin,. or at spring time by the blazing light of the sugar camp." When he was grown he was six feet and two inches tall, and when matured weighed 225 pounds. He was a good woodsman ; liked to hunt and fish, although left-handed, engaged in the sports of drat time and continued his interest in. those which came after. He loved music and bought the first piano which came into Jefferson: He not only did his portion of the work for the family, but that of the community as. well. When a mere boy he enlisted in the war of 1812 and was in battle. In 1813 he and Marvin Leonard made a bier of round poles On which the body of John Inman was carried three miles for burial.


From the very beginning of his Ohio life he had a great .longing for books and learning. Every volume he could get hold of he read and re-read. He walked miles through the forests to borrow or to see a book which contained something he wanted. Every moment he could snatch from work he applied to study or reading. The winter he was nineteen years old he was teaching. By great management he was able to attend the school kept by Henry Coe in


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 567


Vernon, Trumbull county. In 1818 he surprised his friends by declaring his intention of studying law. He was laughed at and discouraged, but this Aid not deter him. Finally two of his brothers offered him the needed money and with three shirts, two pair of stockings, four white neck cloths, two pocket handkerchiefs and seventeen dollars in cash, he started on a forty-mile walk to the home of Hon. Elisha Whittlesey in Canfield.


Mr. Whittlesey was one of the greatest, if not the greatest, lawyer of his time. To be under his instruction was the same to a youth of that time as to attend the Harvard law school at this. He had made no previous arrangement with Mr. Whittlesey, but was gladly received. By the best. of management he finished his studies and was admitted to the bar. He had no office, no library, no clients, but about this time Laura Waters, who, having been born at Grandbury, Connecticut, had moved to Gustavus (an upper township of Trumbull), came into his life, which more than recompensed him for any of the other' things he lacked. They were married. .She was an unusual woman. At the age of fourteen she began teaching school, supporting herself and at the same time saving enough money to buy a small flock of sheep. One authority says she sold these and with the money Joshua bought his first law books. Another authority says Joshua cut down timber on the Mann farm in Andover to buy them.


In Giddings life we do not have to make the record which is so often made in the lives of other great .men. If he had ever had any sorrows except those of his family ; if no one had never abused him and maligned him outside of his family, his indeed would have been a sweet life. For at his own fireside love came in the beginning and stayed there. He had eight children, and because of his public life the care of this family devolved largely on his wife. She was capable, resourceful, courageous and generous. Who knows much of the success of Joshua R. Giddings Was due to Laura Waters ? For so it has been, so it is and possibly so it always will be that men, great and small, forge ahead in life's work because of the contributions which the women make to them. Which took the most courage, to bear and rear children alone mid the discomforts of pioneer life, or to stand in the hall of congress pleading for the redemption of a down-trodden people ? Which is the most stimulating—the cry of the baby, or the hiss of the enemy ? Is there a single reader of this volume who can truthfully say he would rather have had the place of Laura Waters than Joshua, R. Giddings ?


Together these two moved on. Both successful. He soon acquiring a large and lucrative practice, and she having comforts accordingly.


The vigor with which Joshua R. Giddings practiced his law was astonishing, and the stories of some of his early cases are fascinating. During his separation from his family its members were ever present in his mind. After a hard fighting day at the capitol, we find him in his room printing letters to his youngest children because they could not read writing. In one of his letters to his wife he says, "I send a letter to Laura Ann which you must let her open herself." He bought for his granddaughters the first melodian which was in Jefferson. It is still in the possession of his family in the home of his son, which is half a mile north of the court house.


At the end of ten years Mr. Giddings was employed in almost every case of importance in his vicinity. In 1831 he formed a partnership with Benjamin F. Wade and this continued for a number of years. In 1826 he was elected a representative in the Ohio legislature and served one term with great distinction. He ran for the senate in 1828 and was defeated. So successful had he been in practice that in 1836 he considered himself able to retire. About this time he lost a good deal of money in land and never again fully retrieved his fortune. At this date he was rather delicate in


568 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


health from dyspepsia. In 1838 he was elected to a seat in congress, made vacant by the resignation of Elisha Whittlesey. He was then forty years old and he served in that body for twenty-one years, during the stormiest time our country has ever seen. When he entered he was a Whig ; when he retired he was a Republican.


In 1838 he first started by coach to Washington, ending his trip on the Baltimore & Ohio railroad, among the passengers accompanying him was Tom Corwin. When he took his place in the house of representatives John Quincy Adams was serving, and these two men later stood side by side, at first as the only representatives, and later, as the leaders of the Abolition party. The close friendship of Adams and Gidclings lasted until the end. When the former was stricken with apoplexy in the house, Giddings was near him and stayed by him to the end. During those last hours Adams said to him : "I have more hope from you than any other man." Many years later Giddings said substantially the same to Sumner. It seemed cruel that knowing of the attachment of Adams and Gidclings, Speaker Winthrop should not have appointed the latter as one of those to officially .attend the funeral. When a man appointed could not go, the place was tendered to Giddings, who refused, giving his reasons. He, however, went to Massachusetts at that time as a private citizen.


Giddings had been an ardent admirer of General Harrison and was greatly disappointed when he went to call upon him to find that Harrison was displeased with him for some late speeches he had made, and really treated him rudely. Giddings never returned to visit him. As soon as he was well established in congress he became a power. As he was younger than Adams, all the rage which the southern members and northern sympathizers felt was visited upon him. He was insulted, threatened, challenged, socially ostracised, and still he swerved not. In the midst of hot debate, congressmen insulted him and he openly defied them. His friends expected him to be killed, but he never shared their feelings. In the twenty-third congress Adams and Giddings were fighting alone. "The press of his own party did not sustain him and common courtesies usually extended to members of congress were denied him." Later, after he had long served as chairman of the committee on claims, he was removed and given seventh place on the committee on revolutionary pensions, which had no business and did not meet.


Mr. Giddings' son, "Grash," who was with his father at one time in Washington, wrote to his brother "Add" a boyish account of one of these scenes. "Father liked to have had a fracas the other day. White Thompson, of New York,' was speaking on Utah and father asked him about the difference between polygamy there and in the south. Thereupon, La Mar, of Louisiana, came around where father was sitting with his fists clenched, swearing and damning that "the old, curse should be stopped." Father watched him pretty close and when he was within about six feet .of him he told him (without taking his feet off the desk) to go back to his plantation and make his slaves humble. It was useless trying to scare him. Thereupon, La Mar started back like a good boy and never stopped till he got to his seat."


In 1842 when the censure upon him was passed by a vote of 125 to 69 (seven members from Ohio voting against him) he resigned his seat and returned to his district. As soon as he entered he was approvingly received and almost unanimously re-elected. Five weeks from the time he left congress, he was back at his duties. The letters which Mr. Giddings wrote home during all the years of. absence throw so much light on the situation. He tries to allay the fears of his wife in all ways. He was extremely particular about wearing clean linen. In one letter he says he spent most of three clays trying to get recognition in the house and so intent was he on this that he forgot to change his shirt, and he adds that he hopes the family will not follow the example of congress and censure him. So it was that


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 569


Ashtabula furnished the most powerful young man that the Abolition cause had. In 1851 and 1852 an attempt was made to get rid of Mr. Giddings in gerrymandering the state. The result was exactly opposite. Not only was he elected, but Edward Wade, of Cleveland, a brother of. Benjamin F., was elected. Mr. Wade and. Mr. Giddings' opinions were the same on the question of slavery.


Giddings' congressional life closed with the thirty-fifth congress. At that time he had the respect of all the leaders in the north. Carefully kept in his son's home are letters from Lincoln, Clay, Sumner, Garrison, Pillsbury, and so on. Lincoln appointed him consul general to Canada, Lincoln and Seward signing the commission, and at Toronto he stayed till his death in 1864. In 1859 and 1860 he lectured on the general subject of slavery and stumped for Lincoln. He also bought the first safe in the county, and when the Ashtabula Farmers Bank (the first bank of the county) was organized he loaned it to them until they could purchase one. It . has ever since stood in the old Giddings office. It locks with a huge key.. In `the office at the side of his house at his death was material with which to write history. These papers his granddaughters are reading and arranging. In the library are his books ; also a lifelike bust, made by John Quincy Adams Ward ; a cane from the wood of the ship "Amistad" which carried the slaves who mutinied ; the chair of Speaker Henry Clay presented by .congress ; a beautiful silver service given him upon his retirement from congress. Its inscription reads "Presented by 104 members of the thirty-fifth congress to Joshua R. Giddings, as a token of their respect for his moral worth, and personal integrity." During the late winter of 1910 the writer went to Jefferson to obtain certain information for this history. Calling at the home of Mrs. J. A. Giddings where she, her two sisters, her two daughters and two grandchildren live, she was allowed to take certain papers and books to her room at the hotel. Here she began to study before the sun was, down, and here she continued to read till long after midnight. Then finding herself so enthused with the spirit of suppressing wrong, of standing for right, of fearing nothing, that she wanted that very minute to start out and increase her labors for womankind. Even when she had rubbed her eyes and realized that the town lay deep in snow, that street cars were stalled, that to go and do was impossible, her desire did not diminish. If to read of the deeds of a man who lived nearly a hundred years ago produced such an effect, no wonder that those whom he led were inspired, fearing nothing; ventured all and gained everything.


GIDDINGS FAMILY LETTERS.


"On November 24, 1838, I took leave of my family and friends and started for Washington City. The roads were bad and the traveling uncomfortable. I passed the night principally in an open wagon, with only one companion. He was a young man from the state of New Hampshire, just out of college, going west to seek his fortune. He intends teaching school and appears to think he shall shed a flood of light on these western backwoodsmen.


"November 28 five of us chartered a coach from Wheeling to Frederick, in order that we might not be crowded. Soon after dark we ascended the western ridge of the Allegheny mountains, called Laurel Ridge. On its top we found good sleighing, although there was no snow in the valleys. We took tea about sunset at what is now called Brownsville, formerly known as Old Red Stone Fort. It was anciently a frontier fortress. I had no time to look over its ruins. During the night we passed over the famous battleground of Braddock's defeat. Indeed, it is said that the grave of the gallant, but unfortunate Braddock, was located within the present bounds of the national turnpike. In the afternoon we passed through the village of Cumberland, on Cumberland creek, near where old Fort Cumberland is situated. To this place General Washington retreated with the remains of the British


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and American forces after their defeat under General Braddock. This place was for some time a frontier post. At a village called Hancock we first struck the Potomac and had also a view of the Chesapeake & Ohio canal. We dined at a small village called Clear Springs and reached Frederick City at about 8 o'clock in the evening. Here we remained until the next morning.


"November 29 : Soon after breakfast we were joined by a number of members of congress who had traveled night and day, only stopping to eat their meals. Among them I was introduced to a gentleman by the name of Crockett—a man familiar to most of our American people ; for I think few among us are ignorant of the biography of David Crockett, who was the father of the gentleman just named. His father was truly an eccentric man, yet the son apepars to possess few of the leading traits of character which distinguished his father. He appears like a modest, unassuming man, and is said to be very amiable in his character and disposition. He spoke with great veneration and affection. of his father.


ESTIMATE OF TOM CORWIN.


"Thomas Corwin, of Ohio, also formed one of the company that overtook us at Frederick. He is a man of medium size, well built, dark complexion and black eyes. He was born in the lower walks of life and up to the time he was two and twenty probably never thought of rising from obscurity. In 1812 he was a wagoner in the northwestern army, nineteen years of age. At that time it is said his unrivaled wit and the brilliancy of his imagination .used to draw around him the lazy throng during the long evenings, and he then prided himself as much probably on attracting the notice and admiration of teamsters and soldiers as he now does in standing forth as one of the most brilliant orators in the councils of the nation. He read law at the age of twenty-five, soon rose to the standing of an eminent lawyer, was elected to the state legislature and is now a representative in congress. He ranks as one of the ablest debaters in the house of repr sentatives.


SWEPT ALONG AT FIFTEEN MILES AN HOUR.


"At 11 o'clock (a. m.) about 120 passengers seated in three cars, carrying from forty to sixty passengers each, started upon the Baltimore & Ohio railroad for Washington. The cars are well carpeted and seats cushioned. We had also a stove in each car, which rendered them comfortably warm. Thus seated and while some were conversing, others reading newspapers and some from loss of sleep in traveling, were sleeping in their seats, we swept along at the rate of fifteen miles per hour. We passed a beautiful flourishing little village called Elicotts Mills, where much is done at the manufacture of iron, cotton, wool and the like. The Potapsco affords at this place extensive water powerwhich is here used for the purpose of manufacturing. At the usual hour our candles were lighted and we presented the appearance of the drawing room filled with guests traveling by land, at the rate of fifteen miles per hour. At about 7 o'clock we arrived at Washington. The moment we stopped we were surrounded on every side with runners, porters, hackmen and servants. One calling to know if you would go to to Gadsby's, another if you would go to Brown's, another if you would take a hack, etc. They are a great annoyance and the police ought to interfere to prevent it."


PRESIDENT VAN BUREN DESCRIBED.


In another entry the writer thus describes President Van Buren : "We found the president sitting at a circular table engaged in conversation. He rose and greeted us pleasantly. He is small of stature, low forehead, very bald, with eyes sunk far back in his head. His general appearance is not prepossessing. To the casual observer he would present the appearance of a man of ordinary character. Nor are you aware of evidences of extraordinary intellect until you look him square in the face, when you are at once impressed with a con-


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sciousness of his shrewdness and intelligence. He converses fluently and rapidly."


PRESIDENT'S RECEPTION JANUARY 1, 1839.


Here follows an account of the New Year's day reception at the president's house January 1, 1839: "New Year's day is universally observed as a holiday at Washington. From long continued practice it has become a custom for the president's house to be thrown open on the first day of each New Year. All feel free to go and pay their respects to him. From 12 to 3 o'clock it is his custom to receive. As the clock struck twelve we started out. The hacks and coaches and carriages of all sorts were in motion, all moving to the common center of attraction. On the sidewalks were men, women and children, all wending their way towards the president's. As we approached the road for a great distance and all that part of the public grounds allotted to such use was filled. We entered with the moving mass at the front door and passing on with the crowd through the vestibule, we entered the receiving room. There, about the center of the room, stood the president. As we approached he gave his hand to each, and with a gentle shake you were pushed past him and another took your place. I pronounced the name of my friend. He, too, shook hands and we passed along with the mass of human beings from the receiving room* into the famous East Room, immortalized by Colonel Benton's noted letter. This is a spacious room, eighty feet by thirty, furnished in the most perfect style of American luxury. Near the center of the room stood he Hon. Henry Clay receiving the hearty salutations of all true Whigs. He appeared to enjoy much more of the real confidence and love of the people than did the President. The marine band was stationed in the large vestibule and as the doors were all open we enjoyed the music. Here were foreign ministers dressed out in all their gew-gaws of stars and orders of knighthood. Attaches and military officers were distinguished by their warlike trappings and flaming uniforms. The high and low, rich and poor, learned and ignorant,. virtuous and vicious, all mingled together here on this national gala day.


A CALL ON JOHN QUINCY ADAMS.


"By invitation we next called upon our venerable ex-president ( John Quincy Adams). In a retired mansion we found him and his surrounded by some dozen friends who. showed by their countenances and conversation that they had called in reality to pay their respects to this great man whose name will hereafter fill the brightest page of American history. In a large and comfortable drawing room with his matronly (wife) lady, her sister, a daughter-in-law and two grandchildren, we found him. No noise or bustle interrupted that expression of good will which we all felt towards him. His countenance glowed with benevolence and kindness to the friends around him. We were introduced to the members of his family, sat awhile and after some interesting conversation we left, feeling that we had seen a specimen of true greatness connected with genuine Republican simplicity.


Mr. Adams belongs to no local district, to no political party—but to the nation and to the people. He is elected by his district in Massachusetts; comes here with his family during the sessions of 'congress. While in the house of representatives he consults with no one, takes the advice of no one, acts in concert with no one and holds himself accountable to no. one—but to the nation. He belongs as much to the former age as to this ; perhaps he may be said to be the connecting link between the former generation and this one now in active life.


* * * * * *


He was, strictly speaking, educated a politician and has continued in political life from his youth up to this time. He is said to have spent more than twenty years of his life at foreign courts. He is about five feet eight inches in height, well built, very bald, low forehead and nothing about the shape of his head indicates unusual talent. * * * In con-


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versation Mr. Adams referred to his youthful adventures during the Revolutionary war and said that while going to France in 1778, at the age of thirteen years on board an American frigate, they were chased and fired upon by a British ship, and he recounted the adventure with much glee and spirit. He said he crossed the Atlantic twice afterwards in a French ship during the war. He told me his age was seventy-two years in September last."


GIDDINGS ON CLAY.


I also find this description of Henry Clay, then a senator from Kentucky, and at the height of his popularity : "On entering the senate chamber we took our seats nearly in front of Mr. Clay, who was to reply to the member then speaking ( Mr. Benton, of Missouri). Mr. Benton was said to have been somewhat personal in his remarks. All eyes were bent on Mr. Clay while the other senator was yet speaking. In the meantime news had gone abroad that this mighty orator was expected to speak, and a tide of spectators were moving at all the avenues of the gallery. When Mr. Clay arose every eye was fixed on him. The gallery, filled to overflowing, was silent, some seated, some standing and some on tiptoe stretched their necks to their utmost capacity, in order to have a more perfect view of the man who was to address them. Every senator turned his chair so as to sit facing him. The president of the senate turned round so as to have a full view of him, while a breathless silence pervaded the whole auditory both above and below.


"When Mr. Clay commenced speaking his voice was slightly tremulous, but its musical tones seemed to charm every ear. He commenced by referring to the personal attacks that had been made upon him and the charge that he was opposed to the welfare of the new states * * * Having disposed of the slander of his enemies, he then commenced on the argument of his subject. Sentence after sentence was rolled upon an almost breathless audience who appeared wholly intent on the speaker, and his subject until his voice became louder and more distinct. The grave senators appeared as immovable as so many statues. All in the gallery appeared fixed as the work of a sculptor. As he drew near the close of his speech he appeared to have just commenced, and when he sat down none appeared to think he had occupied but a few minutes in the delivery of his speech, but on looking at my timepiece I found that nearly two hours had elapsed from the commencement to the close of his remarks. When he resumed his seat the question was put and to the utter astonishment of his friends it was carried by a majority of three. A thrill of approbation ran through the gallery. The senators of the Whig party smiled. The Administration members looked astounded. The spectators slowly withdrew and the senate adjourned."




BENJAMIN F. WADE.


"They made his grave near the heart of his life-long home, and set at his head a granite shaft, less enduring than the influence of his deeds for truth, justice, freedom and his country's good."


These words came from the heart of one of the thousands who admired and loved the great and rugged Benjamin F. Wade, for eighteen years an honored United States senator from Ohio, a life-long champion of freedom in every form and one whose last public act was to represent his country on the commission to report on the proposed acquisition of Santo Domingo—the first decisive step taken by the nation in protecting the rights of weaker people in southern America and teaching them the nobility of a republican government. His part in the work of that commission was in line with his learning, his sound judgment, his great fame and his splendid character. At the age of more than three score years and ten, with his beloved wife, he returned to the simple white frame house in Ashtabula—tree-buried and surrounded by ample grounds, and so long his dear home-


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and there died as grandly as he had lived, his last day on earth being March 2, 1878.


One who had free access to his home, so characteristic of Benjamin F. Wade, thus describes it : "Everything about him is like the man—plain but substantial. In the lot near the house stands his office, or 'den,' as the family, familiarly term it ; and here, for more than thirty years, when not in congress, Mr. Wade has passed most of his time. Entering it with the senator, we found two rooms, the floors lined from floor to ceiling with cases filled with books. This library contains nothing but public documents, maps and charts, and is the most complete in the country, embracing all information concerning the government from its foundation to the present day. 'Nile's Register,' ‘Madison's Notes,' Knox's Report,' and many other -books long since out of print, can be found there. A carpet, lounge, an old-fashioned arm chair, a few common chairs, a' table and some maps do the wall, complete the furniture of the rooms, which seemed dreary and lonely enough in their isolated solitude." Dreary and ,lonely though they might have seemed to an outsider, it was this very seclusion in which, through the printed page, the eloquent voices of other great Americans spoke to him and by which were forged the statesmanlike,. rugged utterances which made him the idol of his country, state and nation.


Whatever Senator Wade found to do was accomplished with his whole might and soul, and as his energy was remarkable, as well as his power of self-control, every stroke of his hammer brought not only a spark, but tended toward the fashioning of a definite object. Whether defending the interests of Ashtabula county as its prosecuting attorney, fighting against slavery in the Ohio legislature and the national senate, or representing the United States in the southern seas, he spared no effort to perform faithfully the duties which came to him and to 'honor both the office and himself. Throughout his entire active career, he stood forth as one who performed great deeds with apparent ease, and never failed to throw around the smaller affairs of life that dignity and significance which marks the grand soul,


Senator Wade was a native of Massachusetts, born in Feeding Hills parish, October 27, 1800. His father was a Revolutionary soldier, who considered his duty as a patriot unfinished until he had fought the battles of his country from Bunker Hill to Yorktown. Mr. Wade's mother was the daughter of a Presbyterian clergyman and a woman of both fine and forceful character, and it was under her patient and loving tuition that he learned to read and write. The boy's hunger for books partially compensated for his lack of early school advantages, so that when he was eighteen he was really better informed than most of his companions of that age. Up to that period in his life, the had no other experiences to his credit than those connected with the farm homestead. When eighteen, however, he started for Ohio with a bundle of clothing on his back and seven dollars in his pocket. A heavy snow-storm halted his tramp in Ashtabula county, where he decided to remain until the following spring. He spent that winter cutting wood at fifty cents a cord, and (at night) in reading through the bible. But spring, summer and another winter passed, and the young man was still in Ashtabula county, chopping, logging, grubbing, reading, studying and teaching ; and the last although he had never attended school for a single week of his life. Benjamin F. Wade next made six trips to New York as a cattle driver, taught for a winter in Albany, and in the following Spring and summer shoveled dirt for the Erie canal. As Governor Seward once said in the United States Senate, Mr. Wade was "the only American I know who worked with a spade and wheelbarrow on the great improvement." Surely, characteristic of the future statesman—independent and determined, and bravely fighting his own battles.


At the end of his summer's work on the canal the young man returned to Ashtabula county, taught school the next winter and in the following spring commenced to study law


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in the office of Hon. Elisha Whittlesey, being soon afterward elected a justice of the peace. In 1828, after two years of hard study, he was admitted to the bar. The next open step upward was his election to the office of prosecuting attorney of the county. As an active Whig he was then sent to the Ohio State Senate and became the leader of what was then the minority party. While serving in that body, he took a prominent part in abolishing the law permitting imprisonment for debt ; inaugurated the war against the Ohio "Black laws," and took a firm stand against the admission of Texas into the Union, declaring : "So help me God I will never assist in adding another rod of slave territory to this country." As this position was then in advance of that held by his party he was defeated for re-election, but returned after the interim of one term. At this session Mr. Wade pressed through the hill which founded Oberlin College on the principle of equal education, regardless of color, and led the revolt in the State of Ohio against the resolution of Congress, denying the right of the people to petition for the abolition of slavery. From 1847 to 1851 he served as president judge of the third judicial district, and in March of that year, while a case was pending before him, he heard the firing of cannon in the streets of Akron which proclaimed that the Ohio legislature had elected him to a seat in the United States Senate.


Benjamin F. Wade announced himself as an especial foe to slavery at the commencement of his career in the United States Senate, and it was during his fierce conflict with that institution, and all of its supporters, that his most memorable public act was performed. He reported from the committee on territories the first provisions prohibiting slavery in all the territories of the United States. His outspoken utterances and indifference to personal consequences earned him the bitter enmity of the extreme southern leaders, who, upon sev•ral occasions, threatened to "call him out," with no other effect upon the Honorable Senator from Ohio than to draw out the answer, "come on." Of the value of his services as a member of the committee on the Conduct of the War no adequate estimate can be made. He was a very pillar of the Union and a trumpet to its cause, inspiring hope, courage and faith.


It was near the close of the thirty-ninth congress that Senator Wade was elected president pro tem of the senate, and it is almost certain, had President Johnson been impeached, that he would have been elevated to the chair as chief executive of the nation. But that was not to be, and on the 4th of March, 1869, he retired from the upper house of congress as a great and beloved American statesman. Two years afterward his government appointed him a place on the Santo Domingo commission, and later as a special commissioner to report on the feasibility and advantages of the proposed Union Pacific Railroad to the Pacific coast. The results of his investigations and recommendations on both of these national questions have classified him as a father of the republic of Santo Domingo and of America's first transcontinental railroad. This furnished a fitting addition to the mighty sheaf of his life's harvest, and he might well retire with contentment to his quiet old home in Ashtabula.


In 1840 Mr. Wade, was united in marriage to Miss Caroline Rosecrantz, of Middletown, Connecticut. The two sons of this union are James F. and Henry B. Wade, both connected with the United States army. The former has attained high rank in the military service. During the Civil war he advanced from a first lieutenancy in. a United States Cavalry regiment to the rank of brevet brigadier general, and at the outbreak of the Spanish-American war was a full brigadier general the regular army. He served in that cold as a major general of volunteers; was head of the Cuban evacuation commission in 1898. served in the Philippines in 1901-4, command ing the military division covering the islands during the last year of that period; commanded the Atlantic division from 1904


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1907, and was honorably retired from the military service, by operation of law, on April 14th of the latter year. He now resides in his fathers home. Here are at present his wife, his daughter, whose husband is in the army, and his grandchildren.


After an active life of a warrior, General Wade and his fancily seem to think there never was any spot more inviting than this home of their honored father and mother.


GIDDINGS AND WADE.


The comradship between Mr. Giddings and Mr. Wade was most beautiful. The early letters show such frankness, such perfect understanding, that it is no wonder their friendship was firm and everlasting. Before Mr. Giddings began his public life, and they were in partnership, their earnings were substantially in common, which ever needed the money most had it. Then no one considered the absence of money as any disgrace. Few had any and like the shoes of the foremother, whoever needed them most had them. The following letter is characteristic of the great Ben Wade that it is given in full :


JEFFERSON, JAN. 12, 1841.


"Dear Joshua :—I am at present in a squeak for a little cash. If you could help me to a hundred dollars or so, it would be a great God-send. No news here. Nothing yet done in our legislature worth mentioning. We do not expect much from you this session, but when old Tip takes the helm, backed by majorities in both branches, we shall hold you to your promises. I have been. so disgusted with the scramble for office that I have concluded to hold up. I can live without, and when I cannot, I. had rather look to the law for support than to the nation, as I hold a town pauper as honorable as a national pauper. Give the Southerners h-11. All well in these diggings.


"Respectfully yours, &c.


"B. F. WADE.


HON. J. R. GIDDINGS.


BLUFF OLD BEN AND THE SLAVE BOY.


E. L. Lampson of Jefferson, who for the past fifteen years has been Reader in the national house of representatives, in his lecture "Under Three Speakers," tells this incident : "One day, Galusha A. Grow of Pennsylvania, who had been speaker of the house of representatives early in the Civil war period, said to me : 'Mr. Lampson, I served in congress with your fellow-townsman, Joshua R. Giddings, before the war. On one occasion, Mr. Giddings and myself were walking arm in arm, down Pennsylvania avenue, when we saw an hundred slaves, holding on to either side of a long rope and being marched to an auction block on an island in the Potomac. This was less than half a century ago. Continuing, Mr. Grow said : One morning, I was standing in the rotunda of the capitol and near me was that other great anti-Slavery leader, from your town, bluff old Ben Wade, talking with Bob Toombs and a coterie of pro-Slavery senators, when along came a colored boy, some fourteen years of age, and handed Mr. Wade a subscription paper, asking for money with which to buy his freedom. The senator looked at the paper and then turning to the boy said : "My lad, we are opposed to buying and selling people, up where I live. Why in hell don't you run away ? Here is five dollars ; take this, and run like hell the first chance you get."


EDWARD, BROTHER OF BENJAMIN F.


Edward Wade, the younger brother of B. F. Wade, was a man of unusual mind. When but a boy he wrote an arithmetic of a good deal of merit which unfortunately was burned. He came to Ashtabula with his family in 1821 and, although he early left the county, he was always more or less identified with it. He served as congressman from the Cleveland district from 1853-1861. He was an early Abolitionist and found this belief * made him very unpopular in congress. He suffered a little of what his early friend, Joshua R. Giddings, suffered. He was in the lower house


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at the same time that his older brother was in the upper. He married Sarah Louise, daughter of Judge Q. F. Atkins. They had no children, but adopted two, the daughter becoming the wife of Henry P. Wade, who now lives in Chicago. His second wife was Mary P. Hall, whose mother belonged to the Kirtland family so active in the early days of the Western Reserve. There were no children by this marriage. Mrs. Wade long survived her husband, living into the nineties. She was devoted to her nieces and nephews, the children of Turhand K. Hall, and left them a fortune at her death.


HON. A. J. RIDDLE.


Hon. A. J. Riddle was one of the lawyers of Ashtabula county who was greatly interested

in its history. He was successful in his practice, was elected to congress and spent the latter years of his life in Washington. He rote several novels, the one receiving the greatest attention was "Bart Ridgley.” He was a great admirer of Giddings and has written a number of short biographies of this great statesman. He lived to a good old age and always kept up his interest in his home county.


THE HOWELLS FAMILY.


For nearly fifty years some members of the Howells family have been residents of Jefferson.

They have been public spirited and useful citizens. William Cooper Howells was born in Wales. His family was in comfortable circumstances, cultured, of Quaker descent and Swedenborgian belief. When William was not a year old, in 1809, his parents moved to Manhattan Island and lived in that part of New York for a number of years, sometimes up the Hudson, sometimes in the city. Later they went to Loudoun county, Virginia. It seems strange to find them in 1813 in Jefferson. They possibly became interested in this county through Gideon Granger. The father, Joseph, was ingenious, industrious and made a good living in Jefferson, since he not only knew how to manufacture woolen cloth, but could make drawings for machinery. Between the time the family left England and arrived in Jefferson they had exhausted all their resources.


Joseph Howells and his wife were cultured and refined people and although they were in the wilderness their children were well taught. When William was twenty-one the family removed to Wheeling. He learned the printer's trade and published a monthly and a weekly paper without great success. In 1831 he married Mary Dean of Columbiana, Ohio. It will be seen that his most illustrious son got his name from both father and mother. He loved his profession and no matter what discouragements he met, he continued it. He lived in St. Clausville, Mt. Pleasant, Chillicothe, Hamilton and Columbus. When he was forty-five, in 1852, he became editor of the Ashtabula Sentinel and he, and his sons, and his grandson have continued to edit that paper for nearly fifty years. He was journal clerk and afterward official reporter in the legislature, performing well its duties : was elected to state senate in 1863, and in 1874 was appointed United States consul at Quebec. He had five sons and three daughters. Joseph continued to have editorial management of the Sentinel until within a few years, when he was appointed consul to Turk Island. At his departure his son continued the work.


William Dean was born at Matthews Ferry, Ohio, in 1837. The family all helped financially and we are told that William Dean set type till eleven o'clock at night and was up at four a. m. carrying papers. This was when the family was at Dayton. His first salary was four dollars a week, which he earned as compositor on the Ohio State Journal. From his earliest years he wrote verses and set them up himself for his own pleasure. Clean of life, steady of purpose, he progressed from the little printer boy to the writer of verse for the Atlantic Monthly, etc., making acquaintances of men of his profession. He was ap-


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pointed consul to Venice in 1861, staying till 1865 and becoming editor of the Atlantic Monthly in 1866. He is at this writing the best known and most largely read author of the United States. We people of the Reserve are justly proud of him. He has ever been a philosopher and has taught altruism through his works. He is a strong advocate of woman suffrage, being a member of the Men's Association for Woman Suffrage of New York City.


The weakest part of his writings are his woman characters. The author has longed to have him portray a woman, with the characteristics of his splendid Welsh grandmother, his own beautiful mother ; his sister-in-law (Eliza Howells) who is such a help-mate to his "brother Joe," or his own wife—anyone being stronger than his strongest character.


Mr. Howells is full of tenderness and it is beautiful to see and hear him and his brother, Joseph, as they talk over their boyhood days. They worshiped their mother and in a personal letter to the author William Dean says : "My mother was the heart of the family. I dearly loved her., and whenever I went away from home it was with the foreboding and realization of homesickness which was occasioned by longing for her. She had a certain great warmth of mind which supplied any defect of culture, but for a new country she had been fairly well schooled. She expressed herself from her heart with great natural poetry and she fully shared the intellectual and spiritual life of my, father. Together they formed our church and our academy. When we went to Jefferson we had nothing but the household staff and our strong right wills, and we all worked hard to pay for the printing office and the dwelling house we had bought on credit ; but her long hard toil wore my mother out. She did all our household work till my sisters grew old enough to help her and she died, at fifty-seven, after all was paid for. Sometimes we. had the 'hands' from the office to board and she worked to save the


Vol. I-37


greater wages they must have been paid otherwise * * * We were very happy in the home which she knew how to create for us. An inexpressible tenderness, a devout honor for her fills me as I speak of her. I could not have wished to have had another sort of a mother. I do not believe there was ever a better woman. It is more than thirty years since she died, but I still dream of her among the living who visit me in my sleep, and I dream of her often."


PLATT R. SPENCER, OF WRITING FAME.


The Spencerian writing system originated in Ashtabula county. Caleb Spencer, a revolutionary soldier from Rhode Island, and Jerusha Covell of Cape Cod, married and moved to New York State where eleven children. were born to them, ten of whom were boys. The father died in 1806 and. four years later the mother moved to Jefferson and the sons found homes and work in Ashtabula county. Phoebe, the daughter, married Dr. Elijah Coleman. Platt R. was the youngest. From his very childhood he loved to write, but he was seven and a half years old before he owned a sheet of paper. He had to send to a neighboring town from his New York home for this paper and it meant as much to him as all the school books of a year now mean to an ordinary school boy.. When he was twelve years old he was at school in Conneaut furnishing copy for the scholars. He wrote very good verses and made heroic efforts to get an education. Once he walked twenty miles barefooted over a frozen road to get an arithmetic ; had nothing to eat but a raw turnip which he found, and being too diffident to ask for a night's lodging slept in a barn.


Before he was twenty years old he had originated and adopted the system of writing known thereafter as the Spencerian. He continued to teach and first published copy slips in 1848. In 1859 he put these slips into copy book form, and in 1861 he revised this system and that is the one which has been used ever


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since. As he progressed in his teaching he went to other cities, and in Pittsburg established a school which afterward became the Duff College, and in. Cleveland his pupils established -the Bryant, Lusk & Stratton Commercial College of Cleveland. As he grew older his sons took up the work and people became familiar with it throughout the United States. The Spencerian School at Washington probably taught penmanship to more government clerks than all the other schools of that city.


MRS. SPENCER AND THE DUTYS.


Platt R. Spencer had the fortune to be born of an energetic able woman and his wife, Persis Warren Duty, possessed great executive ability, business sense and gracious manner. His success was due quite as much to her as to himself and the training and inheritance which she gave his sons were invaluable. Her father, Ebenezer Duty, was one of Ashtabula's pioneers. He made the first bricks in the county according to the record of Mr. H. L. Morrison. He was an astute man and helped to try cases before justices of the peace. Mrs. Spencer, was one of the early school teachers. Her brother was Andrew Duty, a well known citizen of Cleveland and her niece, Jennie, the noted temperance and philanthropic worker of that city. Mr. Spencer fully appreciated his talented wife and called her his guardian angel."


COLONEL ROBERT INGERSOLL.


Another distinguished citizen of Ashtabula was Colonel Robert Ingersoll. His father was a preacher and an Evangelist of considerable note in Ashtabula for a short time. lie lived there in 1841. Robert was then eight years




FIRST SPENCERIAN WRITING SCHOOL, GENEVA.


old. The Ingersoll home still stands on Main street and is occupied by Mr. and Mrs. J. P. Robertson. Mr. Robertson was a trustee in the church when Mr. Ingersoll lived there, and still continues to hold that office. The Rev. Mr. Ingersoll was very strict in discipline; made his children learn the catechism; insisting on their eating graham bread ; did not allow his children to wear good clothes. So far as we know Ingersoll's first speech was made in the little church at Ashtabula when he was but a small boy and he became frightened, like most small boys, broke down and did not finish his speech. It was not until his heart was stirred, after he lived in Illinois,


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 579


with the injustice shown such people as Tom Paine, that he developed oratorical powers.

The family at one time lived at Madison, Ohio.


QUINTUS ATKINS.


Among the earliest and most respected citizens of Ashtabula county was Quintus Atkins. His long life was filled with such activity that innumerable short stories could be written from it. At the threatening of the war with France and England, though but a lad he enlisted and was stationed near New Haven. He came to Morgan in 1802, just as Ohio was assuming the responsibilities of statehood. He was young and worked for two families which had preceded him, and in due time fell in love with the daughter of one of them, Sarah Wright, and married her.


He was one of the early mail carriers and had the experiences of other mail carriers of the Reserve. He was of a religious turn of mind, and under the influence of Joseph Badger he and his wife started from Austinburg down the Grand river on a raft he had made. Mr. Badger was with them, as was also their little daughter, who when grown lived at Geneva. She was then Mrs. George Turner. This missionary work lasted less than two years. The unhealthy condition of the country about Sandusky made them give it up. They returned and Mr. Atkins was again a mail carrier ; first county sheriff ; was one of the mounted volunteers about Sandusky in the war of 1812 served a second time as sheriff, and lived in Jefferson ; lost all his fortune in canal building, by the dishonesty of his partner ; was interested in the early furnace company at Madison, described at length in Lake county. In 1839 he moved onto the Edward farm near Cleveland and there he and his wife died. They lived together forty-nine years. He had been in all sorts of things, and did them all well.




INGERSOLL 'S BOYHOOD HOME, ASHTABULA.


HOW THE TEA Box WAS EMPTIED.


James Christy, born in 1806, located in Rome in 1817. He was a rather peculiar gentleman and kept his own house. His neighbors borrowed rather extensively of him and he finally took a box and filled it with tea. When he was asked for a borrowing of tea he took it from this box. When it was returned he put it back in this box. After a time the box had no tea. He had made the demonstration which he expected to make. When he died he left his money to the county commissioners for the advancement of education in his county, and it is now used for the


580 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


Christy School of Pedagogy in connection with the Grand River Institute.


A STANCH "MOTHER," WITHOUT CHILDREN.


One of the most remarkable characters of Ashtabula's early history was Elizabeth Marshall, who was born in Vermont. When she was, fifteen years old she rode a horse to a magistrate with John Barnes and became his wife. Soon they left Cortland, New York, where her childish home had been and settled in Trumbull. Here they lived happily for a few years, when he died and was laid to rest on the spot which she later gave to the township as a cemetery. Having had no children she was sad and lonesome, but occupied her time doing all kinds of farm work ; she drew her logs with her horses and tried to do that which she and her husband together were wont to do. Samuel Bullis, believing her to be a promising partner, induced her to marry him and be a mother to his three children. This of course she did and they built and kept the tavern known as the Center House. However, this second husband was ugly and abusive and, as is usual with such characters, very superstitious. Sometimes the only place where she would be safe was in the cemetery, and many a night did she lie all night on her first husband's grave. After a time she ceased to be patient and they separated and for many years they were not together. Then he returned to her, begging her to take care of him and she, woman-like, did it. Women who have to sleep on their first husbands graves now-a-days refer the miscreants to the Masonic homes or like institutions when they return, but Mrs. BarnesBullis lived as did her generation. She had no children of her own, but brought up several and was the nurse and mother of the vicinage. It is recorded that she assisted at the birth of more than a thousand children. She was married the third time in 1863, to Henry Coggswell and died a widow when she was ninety-four. If she had much sorrow she lived so long she had many joys.


THE COWLES FAMILY.


The Rev. Doctor Giles Hooker Cowles and Sallie White, his wife, were related to some of the oldest, most noted, most substantial people of New England. He was a preacher in Bristol, Connecticut, for eighteen years. Mrs. Austin, the wife of the pioneer of Austin-burg, was not satisfied at having occasional preaching in her community where the first church was organized. She therefore started east on horseback to obtain a minister. She was a wise woman. She did not approach the minister, but closeted herself with his wife. The result was that the Rev. Mr. Cowles came to Austinburg, looked the field over and with his family removed there in 1811. He had eight children, most of whom distinguished themselves and helped in the making of the history of the Western Reserve. His oldest son, Edwin Weed, was one of the most able doctors of the Western Reserve. He practiced in Mantua, Cleveland and Detroit. He was the father of Edwin Cowles, the father of the Cleveland Leader, and the father of Alfred Cowles who was the business manager of the Chicago Tribune.


BETSEY COWLES.


The youngest child of the Rev. and Mrs. Cowles was Betsey, who was an infant when the family moved to Austinburg. Her life was quite as vigorous and remarkable as was her father's, her brother's, her nephew's. An ardent student, she early began to teach and was so far as we know the first to teach kindergarten on the Western Reserve. It was then called "Infant School." As was the custom of the times, when her father died he left his property to his sons, requesting them to support Cornelia and Betsey. Even at that early day, Betsey shuddered at the thought of support and went to Oberlin to prepare herself for teaching. She graduated in the third class in Oberlin and started out in the world. Sh said "Providence did not seem to open an door for me, so I pushed one open for my


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 581


self." She taught in the southern part of the state for three years and then took charge of the female department of the Grand River Institute as principal. She became an ardent anti-slavery agitator and the national speakers of that association were often in her home. She herself made forceful speeches. Her sister, Cornelia, was as interested as she.


It has been said that Joshua R. Giddings and Benjamin Wade were the leaders of the Abolition movement in Ashtabula county, but that Betsey Cowles created the sentiment and crystallized it. Not only did the slaves attract her attention, but she was one of the early advocates of the political enfrachisement of woman. At the National Suffrage Convention in Salem in 185o, she presided. As we read, we know her to have a forceful character, and what is true of all women with such a character, is true of her. Her love for her family was extreme. She and her sister Cornelia were inseparable, and the death of the latter almost crushed her. Entries in her diary show this : "Six' years and forty-five weeks since dear Cornelia left us. The Lord is my helper." Another line : "Six years and forty-seven weeks since the light of our house went out. Po they love there still ?"


HON. O. H. FITCH.


Hon. O. H. Fitch figured conspicuously in the early history of Ashtabula county. He had been educated and studied law in the East, but having the western fever, removed to Cleveland and then to Canton. His parents wished to make their home with him, but preferred the northern part of the state because so many New England people resided there. He then went to Ashtabula where he lived the rest of his life. His acts are noted in several places in this chapter. He married in 1835 Catharine M. Hubbard, daughter of William Hubbard. He was justice of the peace, member of the legislature, prosecuting attorney, newspaper man, banker and connected with the American Association for the Advancement of Science. He was for years the ruling elder in the Presbyterian church. In 186o, his son, Edward H. Fitch, became associated with him in business.


HENRY HUBBARD.


Mr. Hubbard was a substantial citizen of Ashtabula. He took charge of the postoffice upon his arrival in 1825. His brother was postmaster. He was early associated with the improvements of Ashtabula harbor, and in 1832 was made postmaster there. He was one of the men interested in the Ashtabula and New Lisbon Railway Company and throughout his whole life was public-spirited and successful. His wife was Julia A. Hurlbert, of Oneida, New York. A beautiful portrait of her is now in the possession of Mrs. Lewis Amesden, adopted daughter of Henry Hubbard.


HORACE WILDER.


In 1827, there came to Claridon, Geauga county, Horace Wilder, whose sister Mrs. Taylor lived there. Very shortly Mr. Wilder moved to Ashtabula county and was admitted to the bar in 1828. He married Phoebe Coleman, who was the daughter of Elijah Coleman, the man who kept the drug store in the hotel at Jefferson which was burned. Mr. and Mrs. Wilder moved to Conneaut in 1837, and she died in 1847. He never remarried. He was prosecuting attorney of the county, representative, common pleas judge and was supreme judge of the state in 1864. In 1863 he formed a partnership with E. H. Fitch in Ashtabula, and removed to Red Wing, Minnesota, in 1867. He was an Episcopalian.


THE BURROWS BROTHERS.


William Burrows and Maria Smith were the parents of several remarkable men who figured in Western Reserve history. They were of English and Scotch descent, had lived in New York and Pennsylvania, and finally moved on to the Western Reserve. Sylvester Smith


582 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE

 

Burrows, born in 1826 in New York, studied medicine in Pennsylvania, and graduated at the Michigan University. He settled with his family, which had moved to Geneva from Ashtabula, in 1852. Here he practiced his profession with success all his life. His brother, J. B. Burrows, was judge of the court of common pleas for many years, and later judge of the circuit court. He is at present Mayor of Painesville, and another brother, Hon. Julius C., is United States senator from Michigan. He once taught school in Jefferson.


WOMAN ARTISTS OF THE RESERVE.


One of the artists of the Reserve was Caroline L. Ransom who, although born in Newark, Ohio, was in her infancy brought to Kirtland by her parents who finally established a home in Harpersfield. As a girl, she proved an apt scholar in mathematics and the classics, graduated at the Grand River Institute, and was later president of the women's department. When a young woman she had a desire to become efficient in art and after many vicissitudes went east and became a member of the family of Horace Greeley's sister, Mrs. Cleveland. Here she first studied landscape painting under eminent professors, but upon their recommendation decided to do portrait work. She was at one time a pupil of Huntington and under his instruction painted the portrait of Joshua R. Giddings, which for many years hung in the old hall in the capitol. The frame is now being repaired and will be placed in the capitol when clone. It is said this picture was the first one which congress ever purchased from a woman artist. Her portraits of Governor Huntington and Governor Cox were bought by Ohio and now hang in the capitol—the former in the governor's room and the latter in the relic room.


Miss Ransom at different times had studios in New York, Cleveland and Washington. In the latter city she surrounded herself with influential friends. Social gatherings at her house were of the highest character. The picture which she considered her masterpiece was a portrait of General Thomas, with the battlefield of Chickamauga in the background. This she offered to congress at a large price and the senate passed a bill to purchase it, but the house did not confer. A little later a bill of like nature was passed by the house, but in turn failed to pass the senate. She lived the latter part of her life hoping to dispose of this picture to the government and upon her death, early in 1910, it came into the possession of the government through her will. It is now in the capitol and will be hung. Her coloring was good, but her drawing was faulty. She was artistic, but not a great artist.


By will she also left four pictures to the Historical Society, one of them being that of Wade.


Cornelia Strong, who married Samuel Fassett, was an artist of a good deal of ability. She painted the "Electoral Commission," which was purchased by congress and now hangs in the east corridor gallery floor of the senate. Her price for this picture was $10,000, but congress considered that too high and bought it for much less. Samuel Fassett was a successful Chicago photographer, but the great fire destroyed his property and the family moved to Washington where he had a clerkship. They had seven beautiful children, and although it was sometimes hard for the family to have what they needed, Mrs. Fassett never lost her sweetness or her fine looks. At the time' of her death she had a commission to paint ivory miniatures of the presidents' wives to be exhibited at Washington.


ALBION W. TOURGEE.


Albion W. Tourgee was born in Williamsfield in 1838. He later lived in Kingsville, and at the time of the war, being at the Rochester University, he enlisted and was wounded in the first battle of Bull Run. He was the lieutenant of the One Hundred and Fifth Ohio and was confined several months in Libby prison. His first wound gave him a good deal


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 583


of trouble and after the battle of Chickamauga he was discharged. He held office in North Carolina, being at one time judge of the supreme court: He was one of the men dubbed "carpet bagger" by southerners. His stay in the south, however, profited him much, for he wrote several novels ; "A Fool's Errand" and "Bricks Without Straw" brought him money and fame.


STEPHEN A. NORTHWAY.



Stephen A. Northway was the second representative in congress which Ashtabula county had. His boyhood spent in Orwell had many hardships and discomforts. He was a good student, good teacher and able lawyer. He held the office of prosecuting attorney, state representative and national representative. He was affable and friendly, and one of the most popular men that ever lived in the county. His Wife, Lydia Dodge, was a true companion and his daughter, Clara, rendered him much assistance in his professional life. These three people had much joy and much sorrow and they bore it together.


JUDGE WOODBURY.


Judge H. B. Woodbury was a native of Kelloggsville, having been born in 1831. His education was obtained at the public schools. When he was seventeen he began studying law with his father and was admitted to the bar in 1852. He was a member of the last constitutional convention and made a very capable common pleas judge. His mother was one of the most self-sacrificing and capable women Ashtabula county has ever produced. In the early days they were exceedingly poor and Mrs. Woodbury was so self-sacrificing that it is recorded she "more than once fainted from work and hunger after dividing her last loaf with an unfortunate neighbor."


DARIUS CADWELL.


Darius Cadwell, born in Andover in 1821, did not suffer quite the hardships of some of his companions. He was well educated, was a successful lawyer, was representative in 1856 and 1857, and senator in 1858 and 1859. During the war he was provost marshal for the Nineteenth district. He moved to Cleveland in 1871, was elected common pleas judge and was highly esteemed. His wife, Ann Eliza Watrous, was a very unusual woman and their lives were exceedingly happy. Their daughter, Clara, married a Mr. Hubbard and resided in Ashtabula Many years. George W. Gould, a cousin of Jay, married Betsey Hubbard and lived in Geneva in 1833.


PAUL HOWLAND.


Hon. W. P. Howland's father, Paul, came to Pierpont in 1812. Here W. Perry was born in 1831. He was studious and successful as a teacher and a lawyer. He was elected prosecuting attorney and represented Ashtabula county in the legislature. At the time Judge Ezra B. Taylor was elected to congress Mr. Howland was a formidable candidate. His son, Paul, named for the grandfather, Paul, now represents the Cleveland district in congress.


HENRY FASSETT.


Henry Fassett, .one of the able newspaper men in Ashtabula, was born in Canada, but came to Ashtabula when he was eighteen. He was one of the owners of the Ashtabula Sentinel in. 1837. After a time he moved to Newark, Ohio, when he became owner and editor of the Sentinel. He held several offices and among them that of probate judge and internal revenue collector.


THE SON OF JOHN BROWN.


John Brown, who lived in many places for short times on the Reserve just prior to his raid on Harper's Ferry made West Andover his headquarters. On the creek road in Cherry Valley was a cabinet manufactory, and here he stored his rifles and other material. His son, bearing his name, lived in Cherry Valley. He was ordered to appear before the United States


584 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


senate and give evidence. This he refused to do, and the residents of the vicinity, expecting violence, organized themselves for the protection of Brown and his friends.


THREE TALENTED RESERVE WOMEN.


Dr. Susan Edson, a distinguished physician who nursed President Garfield during his last illness, was one time living in Kingsville, Ohio, and although her professional life was spent largely in Washington, she always considered Ashtabula her home.


Although Edith M. Thomas was born at Catham, Medina county, she was educated at Geneva Ohio Norman Institute and really lived there until a few years since, when she moved to New York. She is foremost among American poets and is always accredited to the Western Reserve.


Rachel Foster Avery, the noted woman suffrage advocate, is connected by marriage with the Western Reserve. Cyrus Miller Avery, her husband, was the grandson of Mrs. Nahum Miller, of Ashtabula.


CHAPTER XXIX.


MAHONING COUNTY.


When the surveying party, under Moses Cleaveland, had celebrated its arrival on the Western Reserve, the surveyors immediately et out to run the north and south lines. It was early in July, and the members of the party were more or less joyous as they left the lake with its blue waters and invigorating air. As they proceeded southward they encountered so many difficulties that when they had gone half the distance they were discouraged and disgusted. The timber was very heavy and consequently the ground was wet and oozy. When swamps became impassable for the commissary department the surveyors were left to wade, wallow and work, while the provisions went a round-about way. Often at the- end of a hard day's work these worn and bedraggled men waited long and impatiently for their cook and food. As they waited they were unprotected and rain drenched them, and mosquitoes feasted upon them. It was but natural that the picture they had drawn of this beautiful new Connecticut was fading away when they neared the present Mahoning county line.


THE SURVEYORS ENTERING THE COUNTY.


Just on the edge of Trumbull county they had a distant glimpse of Pennsylvania and for the first time they could look over the tree tops. From this time on their journey was more pleasant. As they neared the forty-first parallel they heard the tinkling of a bell and concluded that a settlement was near. Eagerly they sought to find it but failed. However, it was there and the settler would have welcomed the young men from the east with open arms if they had only followed their inclination and the cowbell. As it was, they continued their journey south and set a post on




MAHONING COUNTY COURT HOUSE.


the corner of township one, range one (Poland), and then started on their return trip. When they struck the river they were delighted to see so "goodly a stream." They had penetrated on into the woods until it


- 585 -


586 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


seemed as if they were almost lost in the forest, and here was a stream large enough to take them away if they had seen fit to go. They found some Indians in camp on this river, who told them that many boats went back and forth ; that Beaver, a little town, was not so very far away and that there they could get all sorts of supplies. This information also added to their comfort and when a few hours later they met the surveyors, who had run another line, there was rejoicing and undoubtedly a jug was emptied.


THE FIRST "COMERS."


These first surveyors were not the first men who had visited Mahoning county. Probably not so many missionaries or soldiers or explorers had been in this vicinity as had gone along the lake shore between Buffalo and Cleveland, but many trappers and traders had passed through the valley, and no one knows how many years Indians were following the path from this point to Cleveland and Sandusky. These savages had a village on the land where the Baltimore & Ohio station stands, having cleared the land on that bend and on the hillside opposite. However, as was their habit, they had abandoned this place and small trees and other growth had come on, making it necessary for the pioneers to clear again. Indians had a village, or rather a summer stopping-place, on the edge of the swamp south of East Federal street.


There were several squatters in Mahoning county before the coming of the Connecticut Land Company, but their stay was short, and they simply made a livelihood for themselves and are in no way connected with the development of the county.


THE SALT SPRINGS TRACT.


As a rule, attempts at inventions and discoveries are made over and over again with final success, but the Salt Springs tract, as far as money making was concerned or as far as good salt was concerned, never was a success, although a great number of men tried to make it so. It is undoubtedly true that more than half the residents of Youngstown do not know it ever existed. The Indians made salt here, and white men from Pennsylvania erected rude cabins, where people bringing their utensils lived, while they boiled the water for the salt. When the cabins were vacated the Indians lived in them, so that the Salt Springs tract had more people in it in the twenty years preceding the settlement of Mahoning county than did any other spot on the Reserve. A full account of this interesting tract is given in the Trumbull county chapter and the statements will not be repeated here. It consisted of 24,000 acres and was the only land sold by Connecticut previous to the formation of the Connecticut Land Company.


Samuel Parsons, a judge, purchased this tract, came to see it, and was drowned in the Beaver river on his return home. There was some litigation about the sale when the Connecticut Land Company took over the Western Reserve, but the right of the Parsons heirs was finally acknowledged, and a portion of this property laid aside for them. This portion of it was owned later by George Parsons, of Warren, who was not connected in any way with the original purchaser.


A firm by the name of Duncan & Wilson employed men to carry produce to Detroit and one of the stopping places was this Salt Springs tract. Here one of their employees, who was guarding the stores kept in one of these cabins, was murdered by the Indians in 1786.


During the Revolutionary war General Harmer, who was in charge of the American forces at Pittsburg, ordered this camp disbanded because he thought the salt boilers were in sympathy with the British. He was wrong in his surmise.


Although this Salt Springs tract was not properly within the limits of the present Mahoning county, its operations had effect u the settlements in that county later and are


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 587


mentioned here for that reason. Pennsylvania people traveling back and forth became familiar with Youngstown and the vicinity, so that it was better known to them than any other land on the Reserve.


JAMES HILLMAN, FIRST SETTLER.


The first settler, James Hillman, was often at the Salt Springs tract. He was employed by Duncan and Wilson to carry their merchandise to the lake and at different times had quite a caravan accompanying him. In 1786 he had ten men and ninety horses. The only buildings which these people could occupy (except such as they could erect themselves from bark and which stood no longer than one season and were burned down usually by the Indians as soon as the traders were out of sight) were the cabins at Salt Springs and the houses erected by the Moravians at the mouth of Tinker's creek. Although these Moravian missionaries had wintered around the northwestern part of Ohio and possibly east of the Cuyahoga on the lake shore, we have no material evidence that they were ever as far south on the Reserve as Youngstown. However, the deserted cabins at Tinker's creek were used by the traders and a little later Duncan and Wilson erected a cabin or two near the mouth of the Cuyahoga. James Hillman was in their employ for some time, and was later their Beaver agent. He staid there two years and returned to Pittsburg, when he became a trader on his own account. He and his wife loaded canoes and paddled up the river, exchanging their produce with the Indians, and as soon as they had sold out they returned for another cargo. They did not make as long trips as they had for Duncan and Wilson, but they worked leisurely and often spent some time in one place. They thus became very well acquainted with the Indians. James Hillman, who could speak the Seneca language, knew their habits, and as he was always perfectly straightforward in dealing with them no man in the Mahoning valley was ever held in such esteem by the red men as was he. Because this was true, later he was able to render great service to the people of old Trumbull county, and especially to the people of Youngstown.


WHEN COLONIZATION SUCCEEDED.


In the settlement of this country, the Englishman brought his wife and his family to the coast of New England, and the family and community life began, and the state was established. The Virginia colonists made failures over and over again until they brought with them their wives, and homes were made. So it was with the settlement of this Mahoning valley. Men had tramped back and forth through the woods ; people had been murdered ; nothing was settled, nothing established in Mahoning county and the vicinity until Mrs. Hillman took the lot which Mr. Young had offered her and began making a home in the county. Mr. and Mrs. Hillman were poor ; at the time of her marriage she had no shoes. But then that was not so bad as it seems, because for many years most women of this county had only one pair of shoes, and these they saved for visiting, for meeting and for very cold weather. Mrs. Hillman had no children and her house was the place where all people stopped. All strangers were entertained, and really to her quite as much as to James Hillman himself is due the credit of the establishment of the city of Youngstown. She lived to be eighty-three years old, dying in 1855. She is remembered by many people in the county who as children knew her.


The bodies of Mr. and Mrs. Hillman were first interred in the old cemetery, Wood street, but later were moved to Oak Hill cemetery, and the inscriptions on the stones read as follows :


IN MEMORY OF

COL. JAMES HILLMAN.

BORN OCT. 27, 1762 ;

DIED Nov. 12, 1848 ;

AGED 86 YEARS, I MONTH,

15 DAYS.


588 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


IN MEMORY OF

KATHERINE,

WIFE OF JAMES HILLMAN.

DIED AUG. 7, 1855,

AGED 83 YEARS.


JAMES HILLMAN AVERTS MASSACRE.


James Hillman was a remarkable man. He grew from an uneducated, uncultured trader

to a legislator ; to a leader in the community. He lived to a goodly age and was respected

very highly by all who knew him. In fact, it was due to him that the people of Warren and Youngstown and vicinity were not massacred. The killing of the two Indians at Salt Springs so aroused the Indians in the neighborhood that if Mr. Hillman had not gone to them unarmed, although accompanied by Mr. Randall, laid the case before them and taken the precaution which he did to have a conference later at Youngstown, there is no doubt that the Indians would have arisen against the community. Of course, we do not know whether they would have succeeded in carrying out their plans, but if the Indians of the further west, who hated the encroachment of the white men, had joined with them it might have been that the inhabitants of the valley would have been wiped out entirely.


Howe and most of the people of his time blamed the white men in the Salt Springs case, and believed that the trial which occurred at Youngstown was not a fair one, that the judges were partial, etc. ; but Leonard Case, Sr., who was a very just man, and who took up the evidence carefully and investigated for himself, said later that there was no doubt that MacMahon and Storrs killed the Indians in self-defense. The trial was held at Youngstown undoubtedly, because James Hillman lived there, although the county seat at that time was at Warren.


HOW ALL DEPENDED ON HILLMAN.


It is quite remarkable in reading old letters and manuscripts and printed documents to find how many people depended upon James Hillman for aid and for advice. When Benjamin Tappan, who settled Ravenna, was taking his goods from Hudson to his township, one of his oxen was bitten to death by flies, and we find that the first thing he did was to go immediately to James Hillman at Youngstown. He had no money, although his father was well-to-do. The records say that Mr. Hillman sold him an ox on credit and at the usual price. Almost all references to this transaction dwell on the fact that Hillman did not raise the price on Tappan because of his dire distress. And so it was from almost every settlement in the lower part of the Western Reserve—it was James Hillman who could tell people what to do, how to do it and when to do it, and he was able to do this because of his great heart, just ideas and his long experience with the country.


NO HILLMAN MEMORIAL.


James Hillman served in the Revolutionary war ; was under Colonel William Rayen in the War of 1812; was justice of the peace before and after the war. Although he accumulated some property which debts and unprofitable business transactions swept away, he recovered, and owned several pieces of property in Youngstown ; sometimes a farm, sometimes town property ; and for several years was proprietor of a popular hotel. It seems remarkable that there is no monument or memorial of any kind erected to preserve the memory of this man' and his good wife. One unimportant street in the southwestern part of town bears his name. If only' some stone marked the location of his first cabin, people of this vicinity would not seem to the historian quite so thoughtless and unappreciative. John Young has a monument, in the name of a great town, although he did little but manage his business well, while James Hillman was a real benefactor. The Daughters of the American Revolution are attempting to have a memorial tablet placed in the court house.


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 589


JOHN YOUNG, FOUNDER OF TOWN.


John Young was born in New Hampshire ; migrated to Whitestown, New York, where in 1792 he married Mary Stone White, (commonly called Polly), the daughter of Hugh White, who owned land as an early settler around Whitestown. So great were White's possessions that he gave a large farm to each of his eight children, most of whom settled near him. He was a judge and died about the beginning of the war of 1812.




John Young became possessed with the western fever, and when the Connecticut Land Company was forming he reserved, in his name and that of Philo White, a township. Whether the two owned it entirely, or whether there were others interested, is not certain. Anyway, Mr. White took very little interest in it. The purchase was made late in 1796, and early in 1797 Mr. Young and Alfred Wolcott, his surveyor came to No. 2, range 2, and began plans for its settlement. This was the first township on the Reserve surveyed and settled by the owner. To be sure Mr. Kingsbury, Mr. and Mrs. Stiles and Edward Paine had spent the winter at Conneaut and Cleveland, but they did not own these townships, and did not at first settle on their own land.


While the surveyors were laying out the town, Young busied himself in cutting the brush, sowing grain and entertaining the people passing through, as well as those who came to buy land.


MEETING OF HILLMAN AND YOUNG.


Upon Young's arrival in the new country he put up some sort of a covering for himself and his companion and one evening, as James Hillman was paddling down the river, on his way to Beaver, after a trading trip he saw smoke rising, which he knew was not smoke from an Indian camp. Wanting to investigate as to who was in his domain, he anchored and went ashore, introduced himself and spent the evening. Now it happened that he had not disposed entirely of his cargo. He had some whiskey left. The price of a gallon of whiskey was a deer skin and half that amount was a fawn skin. Mr. Young was delighted to meet Hillman, because he knew all about the country, and because he was a genial man ; and Hillman, of course, was glad to see white men. At length something was said about celebrating the event of the meeting. Mr. Young proposed that he buy this whiskey and that the three have an evening of it; whereas, Mr. Hillman said this really was his territory and these were his guests, and he would furnish the whiskey. However, Young insisted and handed over the deer skin which he had spread for his bed ; and therefore gave up his sleeping place and his comfort for something to stimulate the inner man. This is not related as an unusual thing, however, for men before him and men since his time have denied themselves of precious things for a little enjoyment with


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trouble thereafter. Fortunately, none of these men were quarrelsome and they had a beautiful time that night on the banks of the Mahoning. The new corners were told much about the country. Whether they were able to remember it or not is not known. However, Hillman urged them to go down to Beaver and spend Independence day (Fourth of July) as the people of Beaver were going to celebrate in the good, old-fashioned way. Mr. Young and his surveyor had but just arrived, and it seems rather strange to us of these hustling and bustling times that they should feel they could leave their business and accompany Hillman ; but they did. Before the end of the visit, they had persuaded Hillman and his wife to take up their residence in Youngstown.


THE YOUNGS RETURN TO NEW YORK.


Mr. Young brought his wife and two children to Youngstown in 1799. That year his son William was born, and in 1802 his daughter Mary. In 1803 they returned to Whitestown and lived upon their farm, although Mr. Young did not do any farm work. He became interested in construction and superintending of the roads of that country.


COULD NOT TAKE "No."


Wm. Law, Jr:, in his "journal," now the property of H. K. Morse of Poland, says : "May 8th—At evening I arrived at Mr. Young's, New Connecticut.


"May 9th—Made a small excursion with Mr. King into the woods to see the country and get a turkey or deer. Soon found ourselves tired of such work, and returned with hunter's luck ; dined at Mr. Young's ; then went , to Mr. Stephen's and petitioned for board and lodging, till Mr. Kirtland should arrive. They refused, telling us they had not much provisions and no accommodations. I told them I could not receive 'No' for an answer. I carried in my portmanteau ; turned my horse into the woods, and then started with a man to take a look at our land. Traveled three or four miles and returned at dark much fatigued. To mention about accommodations in the woods would be unnecessary trouble. It was as it was good enough, however. I started early with the man again and traveled not less than two or three and twenty miles which took us till dark before we got in, tired enough. I was not used to such tramps. Determined however to accustom myself to them. In the course of the day, the men saw two bears; shot at one of them, but missed it. We saw a .turkey or two and no other game.


"May. 11th—I kept near home, being very soar and dull:


"Sunday, the 12th—Spent in writing and reading.


SHORT CHAT WITH LUSTY "BARE."


"May 11th—Set out with a man to clear up the garden and cut house logs, but a man wishing to look at land, I went out with him into the woods. We had not proceeded far before we perceived a fine bare with three cubs which ran up a tree ; and the old one fled. We beat off one with a pole. Then the man with me shot another ; and I shot a third: so we were victorious. I then agreed to meet the man the other side of the creek near McFarland's. So I struck through the woods for my horse. I soon found myself bewildered. I clem up and down banks and came to the same place. I then considered a minute ; then clem up another bank and behold! four or five rods forward sat a fine lusty bare. I held a short chat with him, not having a gun, and bid him good-speed. Proceeding I found my horse. I then proceeded to Mr. McFarland's and there spent the evening agreeably."


YOUNG'S CABIN AT WARREN.


It is not true that John Young ever lived in 'Warren. His residence there was temporary. There was a clearing in the bend of the Mahoning river where the South Main Street bridge is. Here Young sowed wheat, erected a log-hut, and when he had harvested his crop stored it in the house. When snow came he


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 591


transported it to Youngstown. This Young cabin was used by men going back and forth from Pittsburg to the lake and by the early corners to Warren. It stood about where the home of Charlie Wannamaker now is, and was one of the first farms purchased.


FIRST LAND BUYERS AT YOUNGSTOWN.


From the records of Turhand Kirtland, who was agent for John Young, we find that Josiah Robbins bought land in Youngstown in 1799; James Hillman, 1801 ; John Rush, 1802 ; William Rayen, 1802,; Caleb Baldwin, 1802 ; Henry McKinney, 1802 ; John Bissell, 1802 ; and Alfred Wolcott, 1803.


DISCOVERY OF YOUNGSTOWN WATER-POWER.


Isaac Powers and Phineas Hill were assistants to Alfred Wolcott, the surveyor, and the story is told that one morning in 1797, as they were out prospecting they walked along the Mahoning river until they came to the mouth of a creek and then turned in. They had not proceeded far before they came across a rocky ledge from which the water was tumbling at a great rate. Nothing did the pioneers want more than water-power, and these men concluded that they would buy this section of land. The fall was twenty-seven feet and at that time there seemed to be an inexhaustible supply of water. Of course, there was much more then than now, because at that time the Mahoning river was navigable as far as Newton Falls. In fact, at least twenty-five years later the legislature declared the river navigable as far as Warren. Mr. Powers had already selected his land, and so it was agreed that Hill was to apply to Young for this. Mr. Powers was a mill-wright and together they were going to enter into business. Upon their return to Young's cabin, they began talking about negotiating for a certain bit of land and Mr. Hill asked to purchase a certain lof. Either he showed his anxiety about the property, or Young was a, very astute man, because the latter immediately suspicioned that there was something about the land which was valuable and refused to sell it to Hill without having. seen it. Thereupon Hill told him of the water-power there, and, after they had examined it, Hill was allowed to buy it, provided he would erect a saw-mill and something which would grind corn within eighteen months after the signing of the contract.


FIRST MILLS ERECTED.


Abraham Powers built a rude cabin in the vicinity and he and his son took the contract for building the mill. Of course, this was a very crude affair and ground slowly -and unevenly, but still it was better than nothing. It was in the construction of this mill that powder was used in blasting for the first time on the Reserve. The saw-mill was of the old fashioned water-wheel pattern, which artists love to paint, but which no man today would run. The stone for this mill was dressed by Abraham Powers, and it was found in the heart of the city, near where Holmes street crosses Lincoln avenue. It was the kind of stone known as "nigger-head." Isaac Powers and John Noggle secured the timber for the mill from the woods on the creek.


WELL-PLACED CONFIDENCE..


It was while these two young men were cutting the wood for this mill that two Indian women came along with a pappoose strapped to a piece of bark. They looked at the men a few moments, set the pappoose against a tree and departed. In the middle of the afternoon they returned, bringing with them the carcass of a deer which they had killed. They took up the baby and proceeded on their journey. Apparently they trusted the workmen, and it was all right, because the baby did nothing but sleep and laugh as it lay tied to a tree in its rude cradle.


FIRST MARRIAGES IN THE COUNTY.


Alfred Wolcott married Mary Gilson of Canfield, in February, 1800. This was the first marriage of Western Reserve people, but


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because there was no minister the service was performed in Pennsylvania. Miss Gilson belonged to the pioneers of Canfield. Her brother was the first mail carrier out of Canfield.


The first marriage recorded on the Western Reserve was that of Stephen Baldwin and Rebecca Rush. They were married in November, 1800.


SHEHY VS. YOUNG.


Daniel Shehy was a well educated Irishman who met John Young at Albany, N. Y., after he came to this country, and was persuaded by Young to come to the Western Reserve. He was assistant surveyor to Isaac Powers. Mr. Shehy selected two thousand acres of land. Four hundred of this was in the east part of Youngstown, and on part of it his relatives still live. The other portion was south of the river. He married Miss Jane McLain, of Beaver county, Pennsylvania, who was in every way a partner for him. She was of Scotch descent. Mr. Young, like many other men interested in western land, was honest but had a "business eye." When, therefore, Robert Gibson offered him fifty cents per acre more than Shehy had offered, Young wished to sell it to Gibson and refused to give Shehy a deed. This would have been exasperating to any man, but it was especially so to Shehy because of his temperament. He therefore proceeded to threaten Young and was imprisoned in the first jail in Trumbull county, at Warren, being the first prisoner in that jail. He was tried and fined. As we have seen, he was an orator and the ringleader in the quarrel about the alien vote in the county-seat case. Jane Shehy was quite as determined as was her husband to obtain the land which he had bought, and she proposed certain plans which really brought Mr. Young to terms. Her husband twice journeyed to Connecticut to try to adjust matters, and after applying to the land company he finally got a deed to the four hundred acres. He was held in esteem by his cotemporaries and his name is not only perpetuated by posterity, but a city str named for him.


FIRST WESTERN IRON MANUFACTURED.


The first iron which was manufactured west of the Alleghany mountains was smelted in a little furnace on Yellow creek near Struthers. Men worked then from twelve to fourteen hours daily to turn out from two to five tons of iron.


FIRST SERMON OF THE RESERVE.


The first sermon which was preached to any white men on the Western Reserve was preached by Rev. William C. Wick in 1799.


THE TWO YOUNGSTOWN TRAITS.


Now it seems strange that these two beginnings, of industry and religion, have been followed out to a great degree in Mahoning county to this day.


The industrial growth of the city of Youngstown, beginning with a little, crude furnace, up to the present time, is one of the most phenomenal things of the times. And there are probably in Mahoning county more church-going people, in proportion to the population, than in any other county. This is not saying that the people of Mahoning county are more spiritual, or more intellectual, or anything of that kind ; but it is saying that the old-fashioned religion seems to be deeper in the hearts of Youngstown people, particularly in the hearts of business men, than in the hearts of people of other communities. Men abide by the letter of the law, attend church services and assume responsibility in connection with church affairs. In no other city on the Reserve could Billy Sunday convert so many people, and in no other city could so many men become millionaires within a few short years. Surely men have applied business principles to their religion, and it is to be hoped they have applied religious principles to their business.


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JUDGE TURHAND KIRTLAND.


Among the early men interested in the development of the Western Reserve was Turhand Kirtland. He was here in 1798, 1799 and 1800. He was agent of the Connecticut Land Company and helped John Young lay out Youngstown ; and he surveyed the townships of Burton and Poland. It was in the latter place that he made his home, although he raised crops and had interests in Burton.




REMAINS OF THE "OLD FURNACE" ON

YELLOW CREEK.

(First iron manufactory west of the Alleghanies.)


We find him going back and forth from one of these towns to another and reporting the condition of his crops. Records show the active part he took in all public affairs. He laid out the second road on the Reserve, which ran from Poland to the mouth of the Grand river. This was in 1798. The first road, known as the. Girdled road, ran from Conneaut to Cleveland, but the Kirtland road ran from Youngstown, along the Indian path to Salt Springs, thence through No. 4, range


Vol. I-38


4 (Warren), up to the present Mahoning avenue, off toward Burton, and thence to Grand river.

In the agreement for cutting the road from Salt Springs to No. 1o, range 8, the Morse notes show


It is agreed, in making the road, that they cut and clear entirely one rod wide and level the ground by filling up the hollows and plowing down the hillocks, so that carts may' safely pass it. They are to make bridges over all hollows, gulls and runs of water, where a string-piece twenty-five feet long will reach across, which is to be considered as cause-waying. They are to causeway all ground that is not passable without, with good timber not less than ten inches thick, nearly of that size, or so as to be nearly even at the top. The foregoing is considered as coming within the price mentioned in the agreement." The contract further agrees that where a road runs on the hillside and must have timber put in


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by the bank of a brook or river on one side, and cut out on the other, there must be extra pay.


Judge Kirtland was the great-grandfather of Miss Mary L. W. Morse. She has collected and preserved diaries and papers of this grandfather, having published the former. Probably no one in Mahoning county has more old records and knows more facts in regard to the settlement of Youngstown and vicinity than does Miss Morse. A large share of the original material given in this chapter was obtained from her.


Turhand Kirtland was state senator in 1814; justice of the peace for twenty years, and obtained his title as associate judge. He acted as agent for William Law and throughout the early entries of the diary his name is often mentioned. Suddenly it is dropped and no mention whatever is made of him. We therefore concluded that some disagreement took, place, but both men were wise enough to keep it quiet.


He was rewarded in his lifetime for his work, as he accumulated a handsome property. His children were Jared P. ; Henry T., who married Thalia Rebecca Fitch for first wife, and her sister Mary, for his second ; Billius, who married Ruthanna Frame ; George ; Emma, who married Richard Hall, and Nancy, who married Elkanah Morse.


JUDGE KIRTLAND KEPT HIS HEAD.


Harvey Rice says that John Blackburn and Nancy Bryan were married by Turhand Kirtland, a churchman, in Poland, in 1800. In regard to this Poland wedding, Mr. Rice says of Turhand Kirtland : "He yielded to the force of circumstances and consented to officiate. A stool covered with a white tablecloth, and a prayer book lying upon it was brought and placed before him. As he was about to proceed a guest proposed that the whisky bottle should first be passed around, which was done ; and while the party were engaged in taking a hurried sip of the 'O-be-

joyful someone mischievously inclined purloined the prayer book which contained the formula to be used in solemnizing marriages. Kirtland, though somewhat disconcerted, appreciated the situation, directed the happy pair to stand up before him and take each other by the hand, when he asked, Are you agreed to become man and wife?' They responded `Yes.' Then,' said he, 'I pronounce you henceforth man and wife and bid you go on your way rejoicing.' "


OLD-TIME BONDS.


Here is given a bond, to show how papers were drawn at that time :


"1798, AUGUST 1.


"Articles of agreement made between William Law and Turhand Kirtland of the state of Conn. and John Struthers, Jr., of the state of Penn. Witness—that Law & Kirtland hath sold to Struthers two lots or parcels of Grounds situated on the Mahoning River in No. of the first range of the Conn. Reserve (so called) viz. Lots No. 21 and 22, together with the appurtenances, and the parties are hereby bound to make out as an ample a deed in every respect as the state of Conn. hath given to the Conn. Land Co. at the expiration of 2 years from this date on the following conditions (viz.) :—the party of the second part agrees to the parties of the first part $106.25 in 30 days from date and $371.87 in one year and the like sum of $71.87 in 2 years.


"And it is also agreed and mutually understood that the party of the second part shall erect on Sd Township of No. I a good finished Corn Mill ready to grind by the first day of

Dec. 1800. 


JOHN MCFARLANE,

JACK GOWELL, JR.,

WILLIAM LAW,

TURHAND KIRTLAND,

JOHN STRUTHERS, JR."


In 1811 Turhand Kirtland "agrees to lease his Poland farm to John Reeves for 100 gal-



HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 595

 

lons of good whisky yearly." This does not lean that Judge Kirtland himself absorbed ioo gallons of whisky, but that in those days whisky was money.


FIRST BIRTHS IN COUNTY.


The first male child born in Youngstown township was John Swager. The first female child was a daughter of Robert and Hannah Stephens. When today we know that the women of Youngstown are paying taxes on millions of dollars worth of property ; that a woman is president of the Library Board ; that they are the managers of much of the philanthropy and reform work done in the county, it is hard for us to realize what an insignificant part they played in the records of the country of the early day. Very often if the first child born in a community was a girl the records say "the first male child born was _____ ;" adding, "there had been a girl born before this." It the case of Mahoning county it is not known whether the male child was born before the female, but so unimportant was the birth of the female child that her name is not given. She was simply the daughter of Robert Stephens.


FIRST DEATH IN YOUNGSTOWN.


The first death in Youngstown was that of Samuel McFarland. He was a music teacher and was only twenty-eight years old. His funeral was largely attended and he was buried in the old graveyard, a1811the stone, which was erected in 181, was removed later to the new cemetery.


YOUNGSTOWN FOUNDED.


First there were the cabins in the neighborhood of Spring Common. Then the log cabins of the first farms began to dot the hillside and the valley. Skins .began going down the river, and supplies coming up. Iron began to be smelted, grain ground and logs sawed. Land became more valuable, as it was found bow fertile it was. The early settler had all he wanted of one thing, namely, wood. People were cold in winter only because houses were too open and only one fireplace was built. Soon houses began to grow up around the first little clump of cabins and civic life, although crude, was lived. The letter carrier made his appearance, as did the stage driver, and ,the tavern keeper. Coal was found. Canal boats glided through the town and Youngstown was established.


In 1802 the town plat was recorded. In 1810 Yongstown was the third township in , population on the Reserve. Warren had 875 inhabitants, Poland 837 and Youngstown 773.


Most of the early elections were held in the tavern of William Rayen, but after 1813 at different public houses until 1850, when the town hall was built.


FIRST NEWSPAPER.


The first newspaper published in Youngstown was the Mahoning County Republican. It was originally a Democratic paper and Ashael Medbury was the editor. Before that time Youngstown depended upon Warren for its newspapers, but as the newspapers in the early days contained a compilation of essays and foreign correspondence rather than news, they were not as important as they are nowadays.


FIRST CEMETERIES.


As stated, there were two cemeteries in Youngstown, both near the present Wood street, one where the present court house stands and the other east of the Elk clubhouse between that and Phelps street. At one time when the bodies were being removed some children were coming down Wick avenue. They had been at school, and seeing them removing the bodies, of course stopped to watch them. One young girl, Rachel Wick, daughter of Caleb, stood by a coffin and asked the man whose body that was. He said it was James Tayler's. There was nothing but a skeleton ; she remembers the bones. Many


596 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


years afterwards she married the son of James Tayler.


At the time the court house was built the Youngs were opposed to asking for the land on which the court house was to stand, because they said that John Young gave it to the city for a burying ground and for no other purpose. This objection, however, was given no attention. Men of philanthropic thought removed the bodies which were unclaimed ; so as far as is known, no bodies were left on this spot. Mr. and Mrs. Hillman were buried in the oldest of these cemeteries.


COUNTY SEAT.


When Trumbull county was organized Youngstown expected to be made the county seat. From letters and diaries we learn that there was no question in the minds of men of the vicinity. Judge Kirtland states in his diary that "he must go to Youngstown to make final arrangements in regard to the county seat."


PROMINENT MEN OF THE COUNTY.


The people of Youngstown vicinity were religious and financially prosperous, but they were not politicians. The county has had one governor, David Tod ; one lieutenant governor, Asa Jones ; three or more members of congress—Whittlesey, Woodworth and Kennedy ; one comptroller of the treasury, Robert W. Tayler; one supreme judge, George Tod. But in the long years of its life, with its large population, we find it has had very few men in national and state politics. Somehow, politics has not proven as seductive as has business.


At the time of the erection of the county Cleveland was too feeble a post to think of demanding the county seat. This was true of the towns along the lake. The young Yale graduates, born of cultured and intellectual parents, who had settled in the neighborhood of Warren, were so well equipped intellectually that they received the appointments to the larger offices when these appointments were first made. When, therefore, the people of Youngstown and vicinity signified their desire for the county seat, they found the influences were too great to be overcome. When, however, Youngstown really determines to do a thing, it is apt to do it. This is true, more or less, of most people, but others do not determine so often. For years and years the county seat war went on. Whenever there was a new administration, whenever there was a new public building to be erected, the smoldering fire burst into flame. At times at public gatherings, the question of county seat was fought out in contests. Youngstown horses raced against Warren horses ; Youngstown men raced against Warren men; Youngstown people hated Warren people collectively, and vice versa.


The organization of Geauga county, in 1805, brought forward the question again, and because the northern part of Trumbull was gone, Youngstown claimed to be nearer the center of population. Warren kept some lobbyists at Columbus to look after its claims, and Gideon Granger, who was associated in national politics and connected by marriage with several families in Warren and vicinity, added his influence to the Warren side. It is noted that in the early days, as stated before, the educated man was the politician and the politician was the power. In other words, the able man at first ruled the country, and he was followed by the man who, education or no, made of himself a politician, and it was this man who ruled the country. Today the politician is the product, as a rule, of the corporate interests, and, although the early politician often did harm, the last stage of progress ( ?) is worse by far than the first. In the beginning men, we are told, did great things for the love of country. Time may have magnified this somewhat, but today men who are in politics are not thinking of the country but of the group of men who elevated them to position. However, it's all well in working


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out, for the harder the taskmaster drives, the louder the servant bewails ; the louder the cry, the sooner relief will come.


THE "ALIEN" QUESTION.


In 1808, when Ashtabula and Portage counties were erected; Warren no longer, with any degree of truth, could claim to be the geographical center. Consequently she looked about for some other way to carry her point, and raised the question that many aliens were allowed to vote in an election, the result of which was to influence the county seat question. This was true, but as long as the aliens voted for Warren, the capital had not seen the sinfulness of it. It was after they began going into Youngstown, and siding with the Youngstown people, that the legality was questioned.


Leonard Case, of Warren, and William Chidester, of Canfield, as justices, took the testimony in the ease brought to throw out the "alien vote." This was one of the most extreme cases ever tried in this region and undoubtedly, but for the wisdom and gentleness of Leonard Case, might have resulted in harm. Some of the Irishmen refused to testify until they were threatened with jail. When all was over, it was looked upon as a disgraceful and uncomfortable affair. Daniel Shehy, with his oratorical powers and high temper, was anything but pacifying to his countrymen. The adding of the lower tier of five townships in Ashtabula county to Trumbull resulted advantageously for Warren. After a time these townships were handed back to Ashtabula. This shifting about caused much indignation on the part of the people living in those townships and many were the jokes cracked over the "homeless", predicament of Windsor, Orwell, Colebrook, Wayne and Williamsfield.


CANFIELD HAS AN INNING. 


The people unimportant. Although the old court house at Warren was gradually going to decay, the people knew if they asked for a new one the county seat war would be renewed. Finally, however, in 1840, the matter could no longer be held in abeyance. The southern part of the county immediately rebelled. The legislators from Trumbull county were elected on the platform of county seat removal. Youngstown asked to have the county divided, proposing Warren for one county seat and Youngstown the other. Canfield asked that ten southern townships of Trumbull county and five of Columbiana make a new county. It was Youngstown people who had made the fight for the new county from the very beginning; yet when this new county was finally erected, Canfield became the county seat. Never were Youngstown people more surprised. Of course Warren was glad and may have "lent a hand." Such affiliation always happens in like cases. It was not generally understood then, nor is it yet, that this result was due to Elisha Whittlesey and his associates, who had political influence.


Canfield promised to donate a suitable lot and to give $5,000 towards a public building. A lot belonging to Eben Newton was substituted for the $5,000 and $1o,000 was raised by private subscription. Work was begun in 1848 and the wording of the law, which provided for the county seat, was such that Canfield people considered the question settled forever. However, Youngstown men had never given up their determination to win, and when they found that its citizens paid half the taxes of the county ; had more than half the litigation of the county ; that it was becoming a railroad center and an industrial city, their chances grew. Even their old enemy, Warren, came to their aid, not from a Christian spirit—for even if persons do have Christian spirit, municipalities do not—but because their lawyers and business men disliked the long drive they were obliged to take when doing business in Canfield. They had heard war of 1812 so absorbed the minds of that the county seat question seemed


598 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE


the toot of the locomotive and the horse's trot seemed slow.


COUNTY SEAT QUESTION FINALLY SETTLED.


Finally in 1872 the question came up in earnest. It was not settled until it had gone through the courts and the word permanent was decided to mean "without any intention of changing" ; that it did not mean that the legislature could not make such provision for'Mahoning county as it could for all other counties—that is, change the county seat when it seemed advisable to do so. The question was presented to the electors of the county and of course the result was favorable to Youngstown.


In 1874 the sum of $100,000 for the erection of buildings had been subscribed, and the building committee increased this to $200,000. The city in that same year gave to the county two lots on the corner of Wick avenue and Wood street, which were valued at $40,000, the county paying ten dollars for the same. This land had been given to the city by Thomas Young for a cemetery, and when it was no longer used for that purpose, the Young heirs claimed it, which fact added trouble to the situation. The question was not finally decided until 1879. The buildings erected at that time have done service until this date, when a fine new court house is being erected. The county seat war in Mahoning county is settled forever.


LAST COUNTY OF THE RESERVE.


Mahoning county was the last erected on the Reserve and the eighty-third in the state. It came into existence in 1846. Five of its townships were taken from Columbia county, those below the forty-first parallel, are not considered in this history. The other' ten townships are — Milton, Jackson, Austintown, Youngstown, Coitsville, Berlin, Ellsworth, Canfield, Boardman and Poland.


THE COUNTY'S NAME.


The name is of Indian origin. Its exact meaning is not known. Some authorities says it means "winding" ; others, "beautiful meadow," while Howe says it signifies "the lick," or "at the lick." This may be true, because of the salt springs. At any rate, it has a musical sound and the good judgment of the namers has never been. doubted. Another account translates the name as "way to market" (way to Pittsburg), and gives the pronunciation as "Mauming."


ATTRACTIVE PHYSICALLY.


Because of the mines and the coal and iron industries, the idea is rather prevalent that Mahoning county is unattractive physically. This is not true. It is rolling. It has several streams which are swift-running. The Pennsylvania hills can be seen from it. It is quite well wooded and, although perhaps not the most attractive of the Western Reserve counties, it at least stands high in the ranks.


THE CITY OF YOUNGSTOWN.


Youngstown was incorporated in 1848; extended its limits in 1850, and became a secon class city in 1867.


As soon as a traveler leaves Girard, going east, he knows he is approaching a city. A certain bustle, a certain air overtakes him. In a moment or two he sees the great smokestacks, sees the suburbs, hears the rumble; and there he is !


INDUSTRIAL AND COMMERCIAL YOUNGSTOWN.



Youngstown is a center of the iron an steel industry, there being located here what are among the largest of the iron and steel producing and finishing plants in the United States. These include the Ohio and United Works of the Carnegie Steel Company : the Brown-Bonnell and Valley Works of the Republic Iron & Steel Company, and the Youngstown Sheet and Tube Company. These three industries give employment to an aggregate of about 15,000 workmen.


Besides these larger industries there are foundries and machine shops, engine builders,


HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 599


boiler works, and, among diversified industries, the Republic Rubber Works, reinforced concrete plant, electric light plant and manu- facturers of electric bulbs ; carriage manufacturers and the General Fireproofing Company engaged in the manufacture of metal furnishings, the product of which finds sale throughout the world.


Additions are constantly being made to present plants, notably by the Republic Iron & Steel Company, which has in the course of construction at Lansingville, a suburb of the city, another large steel and finishing mill, besides several open-hearth furnaces.




A MANUFACTURING SECTION OF YOUNGSTOWN.


The industrial conditions of Youngstown are considered to be among the most prosperous of any of the industrial centers of the United States, having here least of labor troubles, a management liberal and experienced. The rapid growth of Youngstown along industrial lines has been contributory to its rapid growth in population, which will be nearly 85 per cent of an addition in ten years. Every facility as to location, shipping, water supply, labor supply and residence location is offered by Youngstown.


There are also in Youngstown, engaged actively in its industrial, commercial and financial management and promotion, a number of men who are quoted above the million-dollar mark, and several who are placed in the ranks of the multi-millionaires.


In 1907 the tonnage, commercial and industrial, of Youngstown amounted to 15,000 tons per year. In that year 15,000 men were employed in the various industries and the pay roll was a million dollars a month. Two and a half million dollars' worth of new buildings were erected in that year. These facts are vouched for by the Chamber of Commerce.


In 1907, 165 establishments making a report to the Labor Bureau stated that 17,375 males

were employed, 473 females in Youngstown ; number of superintendents, salesmen and office help employed, 969 ; capital invested, $20,012,902 ; amount paid in wages, $11,740,012.25. In 1907, there were in Youngstown fourteen establishments for making bread and bakery products ; two carriage and wagon factories ; six cigar establishments ; twenty-six clothing houses ; two flouring mills ; four foundry and machine shops ; two glass and glassware ; two harness and saddlery ; four structural and architectural iron ; three limestone and plaster, sand and cement ; two malt liquors ; two mattresses and pillows ; eight photograph