(RETURN TO THE TITLE PAGE) 450 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND Monday on the express train for Cincinnati. Passengers on board the boat said she could not appear on deck without being annoyed by the curious and impertinent. She returned to Cleveland 0n November 11 to sing in Kelley's Hall, which was completely filled with one thousand, three hundred people. The street in front of the hall was crowded with the curious, eager to catch a glimpse of her. Signor Balletti first appeared and on his clarinet played from "The Child of the Regiment." Then Signor Salvi sang, and was followed by the star of the occasion, Jenny Lind. In commenting upon her appearance, a paper says "she approached the front of the stage with an awkward step and a school girl bow. She is not handsome, nor is her countenance always prepossessing, but bewitching in her smile." While she was singing the aria, "On Mighty Pens," from the Creation, some people on the roof broke through the skylight into the dome of the hall. A panic threatened as the building had been declared unsafe but Jenny Lind went right on singing and quiet was soon restored. She sang "John Anderson, My Joe," the "Gipsy Song," the "Echo Song," and her famous "Bird Song," which gave her the name Nightingale. Otto Goldschmidt was the pianist of this company. When he played a piano solo Jenny Lind did not think he was sufficiently appreciated so she stepped from behind the curtain in full view of her audience and applauded him. She afterward said that people did not always understand piano music and that he was young and an earnest student, so deserved encouragement. A Boston newspaper of February 5, 1852, has this notice : "Married—Otto Goldschmidt of Hamburg to Mdlle. Jenny Lind of Stockholm." The papers lamented the rudeness of men peeping under her bonnet to get a view of her and expressed the hope that she had seen some American gentlemen while here. Incognito, Jenny Lind went out to Newburg to visit what was known in 1851 as the "Lunatic Asylum." She spent some time going among the patients, comforting and cheering them while they little imagined that their charming guest was so distinguished. Catherine Hayes sang in Cleveland in 1852 and Ole Bull made his first Cleveland appearance on November 28, 1853. He returned November 2, 1854, when the hall was entirely sold out at one dollar a ticket. He played the great favorite of the day "My Old Kentucky Home." Madame Sontag appeared in concert on January 7, 1854 and Thalberg, the pianist, gave a recital in Melodeon hall, April 27, 1857. Adelina Patti sang in Melodeon Hall, October I I, 1855, and again on May 31, 1860. A dollar a ticket was considered a high price but the house was well filled. A paper says : "Patti in time, will probably take front rank among musical stars." Five thousand people were badly disappointed on March 25, 1887, because Patti had a sore throat and could not sing. She appeared at other times in Cleveland, when in her prime and on her farewell tours. These scattered musical events have been mentioned in this haphazard way because in their time it was a real treat and a rare privilege to hear genuine artists from abroad. One must realize the difficulties in traveling from one city to another in those earlier days and then it is not hard to see that these concerts were real events long looked forward to and talked of long after. HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 451 Since the days of perfected railroads and steamships all cities have equal opportunities of hearing the best musicians so further enumeration will be unnecessary. John Ellsler started the old Academy of Music on Bank street and there many of the earlier operas were heard. He later leased the Opera House and managed it. In the early '7os, F. Puhringer became director of the orchestra and gave several operas. He composed "Anna Lisa," which was given in May, 1891. Mr. Puhringer also composed "Miss Manhattan," which was given with marked success in New York. ORGANIZATIONS AND SCHOOLS. One of the oldest singing societies in the city was the Mendelssohn Society. The following notice appeared in 1853 : "The Cleveland Mendelssohn Society.—This society was formed for the purpose of elevating the standard of sacred music in Cleveland. It has been in existence two years, and is composed of one hundred and twelve members. The oratorios of 'The Creation' and 'David,' have each of them been publicly performed by the society. The influence of the society has, thus far, been highly satisfactory in developing much of the latent musical talent in the city, and in promoting an acquaintance with music composed by the masters of the art. The society is now engaged in rehearsing 'The Seasons,' which will be brought out during the coming winter ; they meet for rehearsal every Thursday evening. The officers of the society are: President, T. P. Handy ; vice president, J. L. Severance ; secretary, O. P. Hanks ; treasurer, T. C. Severance ; conductor, J. P. Holbrook; pianist, J. Long; trustees, S. W. Treat, F. Abel, J. H. Stanley." (1) The early settlers in the little village at the mouth of the Cuyahoga were New Englanders and in building the town little thought or time was given to the development of the arts. The first German immigration was from among the Revolutionists of 1840 and they were of the educated class who brought with them their innate love of music. It is only natural then that the Germans should have formed the first singing societies and their influence has always been strongly felt in all musical interests of Cleveland. The first gesangverein, known as the "Frohsinn," was organized in 1848, under the leadership of Heber, but it lasted only a few years. In 1854 the Cleveland Gesangverein was organized, with Fritz Abel as director. A vocal society which had a brief existence was formed in 1858. For this society Professor R. E. Henninges, a leader among German musicians, composed a number of songs, the prettiest being, "Ruhe Sanft." In 1855 the first Saengerfest was held under the leadership of Hans Balatka from Milwaukee. During the three clays' musical feast, three hundred singers contested for prizes. The second Saengerfest with four hundred singers was held in 1859 in old National Hall. On the evening of June 14th this Fest was closed by singing Allesandra Stradella in the old Cleveland Theater. This was the first opera ever given in Cleveland. From June 22 to 29, 1874, the great Saengerfest was given and was of more than ordinary importance as it was the nineteenth Saengerfest of the North Amer- 1 - City Directory, 1853. This society lasted for several years. 452 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND ican Saengerfest Society. Being a national affair it was attended by about fifty of the most prominent singing societies of the west, bringing one thousand five hundred singers. The Fest is biennial and the Cleveland societies made most elaborate preparations to outdo former attempts in other cities. A stock company was formed and sixty thousand dollars raised by sale of stock. A large temporary building, two hundred and twenty by one hundred and fifty-two feet was erected on Euclid avenue, between Case and Sterling, at a cost of thirty-one thousand dollars. The seating capacity of this Saengerfest Hall was nine thousand and one thousand, five hundred additional on the stage. The occasion of this Saengerfest aroused the greatest public interest. Half fare on all railroads attracted a large attendance. The decorations even on the exterior of the building were most elaborate and every street in the city was hung with evergreen and flags of the United States and Germany. The occasion was given special significance by the presence of Governor Allen and Lieutenant Governor Hart, who opened the Fest. Dr. G. C. E. Weber pronounced in German a eulogy on music. The music of the opening concert was under the direction of Professor William Heydler and the other concerts were directed by Carl Bergman. The Philharmonic orchestra of New York was here for the entire week. The distinguished prima donna, Madame Pauline Lucca sang at three of the concerts. Professor Nuss, a Cleveland musician, composed a stately "Saenger Gruss" for the occasion. The entire week was unique in Cleveland's history and won for her citizens a reputation for hospitality and musical appreciation. Not for almost twenty years did the Cleveland Gesangverein attempt another Saengerfest. The last one was held July 11-14, 1893, in Saengerfest Hall, at the corner of Willson and Scovill avenues. Emil Ring was the director. The occasion was made noteworthy by the presence of Governor Wm. McKinley at the opening concert. The Cleveland Vocal Society was organized in 1873 and during the thirty years of its existence, under the able leadership of Alfred Arthur, did more than any other musical organization up to that time in raising the standard of music and cultivating the public taste. Mr. Arthur has kept intact in the Cleveland School of Music the excellent library used by the society. The best choruses, chorals, cantatas, madrigals and part songs can be found in this collection. The society gave two, and often three, concerts during the season and to Mr. Arthur and the one hundred members credit must be given for the excellent things they accomplished. J. T. Wamelink was the enthusiastic leader of one of the earlier vocal societies. Under his direction the Harmonic Club gave the "Creation," and other standard oratorios. Aside from the musical societies mentioned, many others have been organized. Many of these lasted only a few years. It is no longer the fashion for Cleveland, or any other American city, to support a large mixed chorus. Americans want quick results and are not willing to take the necessary time and labor to bring such an organization to perfection. Only in a few musical college towns where the director has authority to demand HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 453 attendance at all rehearsals can such a society flourish. To Great Britain and to our neighbor, Canada, we must pass the laurels for perfection in chorus work. SCHOOLS OF MUSIC. The Cleveland Academy of Music was opened November 13, 1854, in a hall in Hoffman's block, by R. B. Wheeler and E. A. Payne. There were three classes, advanced, beginners' and children's classes. In 1874, the Cleveland School of Music was founded by Alfred Arthur who is still the chief of this flourishing school, in a building of its own on Prospect avenue. Many well known musicians received their early training here. Some sixty years ago a man came to Cleveland from Germany and although not educated as a musician he found so little music in Cleveland that his natural talent forced him to organize little clubs, to conduct singing societies, and, being versatile he played most any instrument the occasion required. We will know Gottlieb Heydler better through his two sons, William and Charles. The older one, William Heydler organized the Cleveland Conservatory of Music in 1871. He was as versatile as his father but had the advantage of being a finely educated musician. We read of him playing the piccolo and flute and until 1870 the violin was his favored instrument. After further study abroad he chose to devote himself to the piano, and was a most gifted teacher. Associated with him in the Conservatory were John Hart, violin and harmony teacher and John Underner, singing teacher. After thorough inquiry it seems quite safe to say that John Underner was one of the best vocal teachers in the country. His mother was Spanish and his father French. He was born in Albany and after years of experience in New York and Europe, he spent many of his best years in Cleveland. Among his well known pupils were Marie Litta who had a wonderful voice but unfortunately died at almost the beginning of her operatic career ; Hattie McLain, Birdie Hale Britton and Ella Russell, who is now better known in England than America. Other well known vocal teachers were Ricardo Banfi, who was Mrs. Seabury Ford's first teacher, and Madame Von Feilitch, to whom Evan Williams and Mrs. Foster, now of New York, owe their early training. Upon the death of William Heydler, Frank Bassett took up the department of piano and theory in the Conservatory. He was an excellent teacher but retired about eight years ago to live in Europe. John Nuss, a most poetic and talented violinist, took the place of John Hart, and he in turn was followed by his apt pupil, Charles Heydler. A little later Mr. Heydler decided to adopt the 'cello as his favored instrument and is known today as one of the ablest 'cellists in the country, a fact which perhaps not all Clevelanders realize. Many talented violinists have taught in this Conservatory, namely : William Schramm, George Layman and John Marquardt. Sol Marcosson now stands at the head of violinists in Cleveland. Miss Patty Stair is a piano teacher in the Conservatory and an organist of merit. She received her training from Mr. Bassett. Among other schools of music in Cleveland, the Wolfram College of Music is well known. There are also West Side and East End Schools of Music, all of which are doing creditable work. 454 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND About 1875 the Cecilian String Quartet, composed of John Nuss, violin ; Phillip Grotenrath, second violin, and the Koeningslow brothers with viola and 'cello, was organized and was as fine as anything Cleveland has since had. This was later reorganized as the Schubert Quartet, with John Beck, violin ; Julius Deiss, second violin ; John Lockhart, viola and Charles Heydler, 'cello. About twenty years ago it was again reorganized and has since been known as the Philharmonic String Quartet. Through the years the personnel of the quartet has naturally changed some and it now consists of Charles Heydler, 'cellist ; Sol Marcosson, first violin ; James D. Johnston, second violin and Charles V. Rychlik, viola. To all lovers of chamber music this quartet is a real joy and should be the pride of every Cleveland musician. The quartet gives a series of concerts each season, where the best quartet music is given scholarly interpretation. In Edgewater Park a monument has been erected to the memory of Conrad Mizer, a man who loved music and one who felt that the people who cannot or will not pay admission to hear good music should be given that pleasure. It was then largely due to his efforts that the Sunday afternoon band concerts were given in the parks. Vast throngs of people visited the parks to hear the music. From the summer afternoon concerts a demand arose for good concerts on winter Sunday afternoons. Step by step there has grown up the Cleveland Symphony Orchestra, which in the season of 1910 gave ten Sunday afternoon concerts which do credit to Cleveland. The concerts were at first given to a scattered few but now the orchestra plays to the capacity of Gray's Armory. These concerts have been familiarly called "Pop" concerts but the standard of music given in the past few seasons and the excellent work of the assisting artists warrant the more dignified name of the Cleveland Symphony Concerts. To Johann Beck and Emil Ring, the directors, most sincere praise should be given. The gathering together of fifty or more men in a busy commercial city and training them to give excellent programs on ten successive Sundays is a prodigious task. To these leaders, to the members of the orchestra and to the artists who have so ably assisted, the thanks of the public is due, for it is purely a labor of love. If just encouragement is given this undertaking it may develop that Cleveland will one day have an orchestra as well-known as Cincinnati or Pittsburg. In the meantime these concerts are developing a real musical taste and the nominal charge of admission makes the doors swing wide to all who wish to hear. BANDS. Every small town has a band and in all public and patriotic events the band is the biggest factor. The playing of national and military music stirs one's patriotism and it is to be regretted that bands are becoming a memory. The first band of note in Cleveland was Hecker's Band, organized in 1850. Leland's Band soon followed and in 1867 the Great Western Band came into existence and gave many Sunday concerts in Brainard's Hall under the leadership of Carl Braetz and later of Frank Hruby. This Band continued to give excellent concerts of high order but finally disbanded as there was no incentive to continue. In 1873, Wm. Kirk organized the Oriental Concert Band, which is now known as Kirk's Military Band. There are also Harris' Military Band, the Banda HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 455 Rossini among the Italians and the Mudra Band of the Bohemians. Papworth's was likewise a well known band during the. Civil war. Leland's Band was known all over the country and The Gray's Band, led by Jack Leland was a famous band. Leland won much praise when he took the Grays to Washington to play at the inauguration of President Garfield. The Great Western, Leland's and the Germania were all bands of a high musical order. SINGING CLUBS. Singing clubs now in existence are the Harmonic, the Rubinstein and the Singers' Club. The Harmonic is a large, mixed chorus of one hundred and fifty voices which is the outgrowth of a church choir. Under the direction of J. Powell Jones, this club gives some of the well known oratorios each season. Mr. Jones has the power of imparting his own enthusiasm to the singers and the concerts have real merit. The Rubinstein Club was organized in February, 1899. It is a club for women's voices alone. To Mrs. R. B. Fry the credit is due for the upbuilding of this club. In May, 1899, the club then consisting of sixteen women made its first bow to the public in a musical at Plymouth church. The club now has eighty- five voices and gives two concerts each season to large audiences. The club is assisted at each concert by some artist of note. During the eleven years there have been several leaders of this chorus. Mrs. S. C. Ford is now in her third year as director and under her spirited guidance the club has rapidly developed. The Singers' Club. In 1891, thirty young men banded themselves together to furnish music for the Sunday afternoon Y. M. C. A. meetings. Out of their enthusiasm grew the desire to form a musical club and with C. B. Ellinwood as leader, the Singers' Club was incorporated. All organizations, like individuals, must grow or die and in looking over the record of this club which is now in its twentieth year, one is quickly assured that this club is much alive for the growth has been a steady one. That the membership has increased to one hundred and fifteen, and that it has migrated from the auditorium of the Y. M. C. A. to Gray's armory, the largest room in town in which music can be heard, is evidence enough that the club has grown in the estimation of the music loving people of Cleveland. Following Mr. Ellinwood's seven years of leadership, came Charles E. Clemens, under whose leadership the club continued to prosper. In 1906 the baton was given to Albert Rees Davis, one of the club's popular members. Mr. Davis is not a professional musician but a natural director. When a mere boy he had a clear, high voice which was much in demand for vested choirs, and as a result he had many years of drill and practice. He has also been a church organist. So it was not without considerable musical experience that he took up the leadership of the Singers' Club. Mr. Davis has the natural Welsh love of music and a jovial manner which enables him to bring the best out of his singers. The club regularly gives three concerts during the season and a soloist of renown is engaged for each concert. Each year there is marked improvement in the work of the club and naturally with greater experience it will be possible to 456 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND select voices with a more mature judgment and thus improve the tonal quality and timbre of the club. With progress the watchword of the club, the years will be few indeed until the Singers' Club ranks with the best of such organizations in the country. Cleveland has one club of which it may well be proud. It has been the pattern for many other clubs in as many different cities. Mrs. J. H. Webster, on a winter's day in 1894, invited six ladies to her home to talk over the possibilities of organizing a musical club. A few days later each one of these seven had interested three others and these twenty-eight were brought together to further discuss the project. Then it was decided to send out a little circular to all those whom the twenty-eight thought would be interested in hearing good music. The circular briefly stated the object of the club and that all who wished to join might do so by paying the necessary fee. To the surprise of all, three hundred and fifty ladies joined and thus inside of a few weeks the Fortnightly Musical Club was formed. This club now belongs to the federated clubs. There were originally, as now, active and associate members. The number of associate members is limited to five hundred. The active membership is not limited but members are elected by passing examinations which maintain a high standard of excellence. A few years ago at the thoughtful suggestion of Mrs. Webster, a student membership was formed which enabled all students in good standing to become members for the current year. This student membership is likewise not limited as it naturally varies from year to year. There were one hundred student members the past year. The original plan of the club was to have twelve afternoon recitals given by the active members, and three evening artist recitals to which the public was invited to take what seats the club did not use. In May, 1901, the club had a musical festival which lasted five days. Thomas' Orchestra came for two concerts, one in the afternoon and one in the evening. This was the beginning of the symphony concerts. During the following winter under the auspices of the Fortnightly Club and the efficient management of Mrs. Adella Prentiss Hughes, the regular series of seven symphony concerts began. For nine years then Clevelanders have been able to hear the finest orchestras of the country and with the orchestras the best soloists. The afternoon concerts, twelve in number, are under the able management of Mrs. F. B. Sanders. During the winter of 1909-1910 these concerts were given at the Colonial Club. Due to the continual musical growth of the club, the afternoon recitals are no longer confined to the active members. Singers, pianists, violinists and musical lecturers from abroad appear in turn before the club and the Kneisel String Quartet has become an annual treat. Several programs each season are still given by the active members and are greatly enjoyed ; they compare most favorably with the outside talent. One of the finest features of the Fortnightly Club is the giving of altruistic concerts by the active members. These concerts are given in homes for aged people, for the blind, in social settlements and in public schools. These concerts raise the standard of music and cultivate a love for it besides bringing a vast amount of good cheer and enjoyment to the aged and infirm who have no HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 457 other opportunity of hearing good music. Twenty-two of these concerts were given last year. Still another phase of the Fortnightly Club is the study section which meets a day or two previous to each symphony concert, when the orchestral program is studied and explained. By thus understanding the music, the interpretation given by the orchestra becomes the more instructive and enjoyable. The first president of the Fortnightly was Mrs. Edward W. Morley, who served two years. Mrs. Samuel Prentiss Baldwin was president for three years and was followed by Mrs. John Howard Webster, who served three years. Mrs. David Z. Norton followed and was president six years. In 1907 Mrs. John Howard Webster was again elected and is still the president of the club. Aside from the usual officers there is a competent executive board under whose supervision all business of the club is transacted. The aim of the club is to bring only the best before the members, a worthy ambition. The interests of the club are broadening each year. For instance., last year the club contributed one hundred dollars toward the prize fund for the best musical composition written by an American. In the general musical progress of the country the Fortnightly Club will not be found wanting. ORGANISTS. Charles Koebler, a composer, and a builder of organs, came to Cleveland about 1850. So far as any records show, he was one of the first organists to play in a Cleveland church. Among the present organists, of Cleveland, many deserve special mention, because, outside of their professional duties, they are generously giving the public the benefit of their talents in twilight recitals and in vesper services. At the Old Stone Church William B. Colson ; at Trinity Cathedral, Frank Kraft ; at Epworth Memorial Church, Herbert Sisson ; at Unity Church, James H. Rogers ; and at St. Paul's, Charles E. Clemens. During the college year Mr. Clemens also gives a recital each Sunday following the vesper service at the college for women. This recital is open to the public as well as to the college students. Mr. Clemens deserves further mention in that he is well known in the musical world outside of Cleveland. He frequently gives organ recitals and dedicates new organs in other cities. TEACHERS AND COMPOSERS. This little sketch would not be quite complete without some mention of Cleveland's teachers. As the number exceeds five hundred, only a very few of them can be enumerated. Mrs. Seabury C. Ford, Cleveland's best known singer, is an eminent teacher of the voice. Felix Hughes is a vocal teacher and singer who has had the best of training and is a thorough teacher. Edwin Douglas, Francis Sadlier, William Saal, Albert H. Hurd, Miss Katherine Lowe, and Miss Grace Probert are well known as teachers of the voice. Many piano teachers have been previously mentioned connection with conservatories and the organists are nearly all piano teachers as well. Aside 458 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND from these, Herman Kortheuer is a well-known teacher; Wm. A. Becker is a pianist and composer who has been received with enthusiasm in European music centers ; Marinus Salomons, although only a short time in Cleveland, is recognized as a thorough teacher and is well known as a concert player. Teachers are known and rated according to the results of their work, and what is true of all western cities is true of Cleveland, namely, that when pupils are well drilled and technically trained to the point of excelling in their work, they leave for New York, Boston or Europe, where the opportunities of hearing music are greater, but the teaching is often not superior to that of the home city, and the last teacher usually is given the credit for whatever the pupil accomplishes. The best known teacher and composer of Cleveland has not as yet been mentioned. His parents distinguished a not unusual name by giving him the prefix, Wilson George. In Wilson G. Smith, Cleveland has a musician who is unique. He does not ally himself with any school or organization ; independence is his keynote. He is a clever essayist, an able and fearless critic, a teacher of renown, and, above all, a composer of unusual merit. His "Hommage a Edward Grieg" was warmly commended by the great Scandinavian. Mr. Smith has also paid homage to Schumann, Chopin and Schubert. Rupert Hughes says of Mr. Smith, "In all he has achieved remarkable success, for he has done more than copy their little tricks of expression and oddities of manner and pet weaknesses. He has caught the individuality and the spirit of each man." Aside from these tributes to other musicians, Mr. Smith has written numerous compositions for the piano and some most delightful songs. In all of these works there is a charm of freshness and an originiality that is fascinating. From his wide experience in teaching, he has written a number of most helpful technical studies. The name of James H. Rogers is now being placed close to the top of the list of modern song writers. Thus far, the number of songs is not so very large but their quality commends them to all lovers of exquisite music. Johann Beck is a composer of whom the critics speak in most glowing terms, but unfortunately none of his music has ever been published. Mr. Beck has written almost exclusively for orchestras and the scores are unusually complex. Many of his works have been given public performance in Germany, where Mr. Beck spent many years in study. Charles V. Rychlik is another Clevelander who is coming to the fore in his compositions for stringed instruments. Charles Sommers composes piano music and is also leader of the Canton Symphony Orchestra. Miss Patty Stair is gaining a well deserved reputation as a clever composer, especially of part songs for women's voices. Mrs. Fanny Snow Knowlton has composed excellent part songs for women's voices, among them "The Mermaid" is widely known. Cleveland has been much criticised as a city that lacks in musical appreciation. Musicians are numerous but the art does not flourish. The really artistic recitals are not well attended, but when anything that tends toward the spectacular, anything that is of huge proportions and social importance comes, then Cleveland leaves her cozy fireside and is willing to sit in a draught or next to a HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 459 hot steam pipe and permit the saucy head above the proscenium in the barn-like armory to protrude its tongue in impudent mockery. This criticism of Cleveland is just and unjust. Just, because it is true, and unjust, because Cleveland lacks the opportunity of educating her people to appreciate the best in art. A benefactor is needed for Cleveland such as Cincinnati had in Reuben Springer and Pittsburg in Andrew Carnegie. The progress of one art merges insensibly into the success of another. An art gallery and a music hall! One alone will create a greater need of the other. The two will stimulate each other, and with such a hope realized Cleveland will distinctly rise to a higher plane as a city of culture. A city cannot become one of culture by merely having an established number of musical events in a season, but by making it possible for her citizens to absorb the subtle influences of all the arts. Perhaps the day is not far distant when Cleveland may listen to the great orchestras and soloists in a temple fit for the divine art. CHAPTER XLIX. ART. By Carl Lorenz. Half a century ago there was no art life in the city of Cleveland. Here and there a young man or woman might have been found struggling with brush and palette full of enthusiasm and perhaps not without talent. But the atmosphere was missing, and in many cases also the schooling. Even architecture was a thing of the future at that time, and the fine arts were represented by a very few real paintings in the homes of the very few lovers of art to be found in Cleveland. One or two wood carvers, and three or four clever stone cutters, foreigners by birth, constituted the art colony of our city, reminiscent of log cabins and wooden shanties from the first half of the last century. It was after the war of rebellion, when Cleveland took a new lease on life, and its growth had become rapid, not to say feverish, that the first signs of an artistic activity were perceived which developed hesitating talents, created a fraternity of artists, and culminated in our days in the erection of a modern art school and a prospective art museum. In the early '70s a number of young men, some mere boys yet, and a few older fellows, devoted much of their free time to the cultivation of their artistic longings and talents. As their names will show, they were the children of German immigrants or immigrants themselves, and all ai them poor men, working hard for a living and an education. The parents of some were living in Cleveland, while others had drifted into the city from nearby towns and villages. These enthusiastic young men were George Grossman, F. C. Gottwald, John Semon, Adam Lehr, Louis Loeb, Herman Herkomer, John Herko- 460 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND mer, O. V. Schubert, Daniel Wehrschmidt, Emil Wehrschmidt, Otto Bacher, Arthur Schneider and Max Bohm. It was but natural that these men should learn to know each other, and finally form a society of artists. Thus the first art club in the city of Cleveland was started in the year of 1876. About the same time the city government of Cleveland moved into their new city hall on Superior avenue. The politicians of those days were shrewd liberal men ; the top floor of the new municipal building stood empty, and soon the artists found spacious homes up there. One studio after another was opened up, and the art club itself occupied the large east room of the building. This was in 1882. Two years later the art club founded the Cleveland Art school, which was also opened in the top floor of the city hall. The politicians below were easy going landlords, and the artists above were a merry set of people. In a very few years the artistic activity had taken huge proportions. The very walls in the upper hall bore testimony thereof. If there was no Trilby foot to be seen, one could find a great variety of charcoal drawings, good, bad and indifferent, yet always expressing the humor of the Boheme which was reigning up there, nearer to heaven than to earth. Nevermore can there be such a happy epoch of the art life of Cleveland as in those days. The club and the school were flourishing; the artists worked always full of ambition, if often empty of stomach. The art school at the top floor of the city hall had as its neighbor the Cleveland School of Art, founded in October, 1882, by Mrs. S. H. Kimball. In a short time the number of pupils became too great for a private residence, and once more the top floor had to offer its hospitality. The growth of the school was marvelous. The latter became in 1888 a department of the Western Reserve University, under the wings of which it remained until 1891. In that year Miss Georgie L. Norton from Boston became the principal of the school, which in 1892 was removed from the city hall to the old Kelley residence on Willson avenue. The success of the school in a short time demanded more ample accommodations and the friends of the institution started a building fund. The late Judge Stevenson Burke and his wife subscribed most liberally, also Mr. J. H. Wade, who gave besides an admirable site of one and a half acres of land for .a new building, Within a few years the donations were sufficient to assure the erection of the building. Work was begun in 1904 near the junction of Juniper road and Magnolia avenue, and two years later the new school was opened. The building is fireproof, fifty-four by one hundred and six feet, constructed of Roman vitrified bricks and terra cotta, and in the Renaissance style, There are three large studios, besides other rooms, and an exhibition hall, lighted by day through a semielliptical roof of opalescent glass covered with ribbon skylight glass. In 1908 the school was enlarged by a separate studio for the development of sculpture. The means for this building were furnished by Mr. Thomas H. White. The arrangements in this studio are complete and modern in every detail for its purpose. The Art School and the artists' studios in the city hall remained but a few years longer after the removal of the School of Art. The growth of the city increased the demand for more office room, and higher and higher rose the flood of politicians. Mayor` John H. Farley in 1898 ejected the artists from the top HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 461 floor, the Art School having died away somewhat earlier. Nothing remained of the former glory but the walls with their decorations. These, too, disappeared a little later under a coat of whitewash. Sic transit gloria mundi ! In the early '90s a Camera club was founded, followed by some remarkable exhibitions of art photography. The art of the camera found its fuller expression in Carle Semon, nephew of John Semon, the landscape painter, and a man of really artistic achievements. The Brush and Palette club was formed in 1893, and one year later the Water Color society sprang into existence. The three clubs held frequent expositions, and thus it happened that the general public learned to know of the existence of art life in the city. These expositions found much favor and became society events. In those years, as well as in the '8os, Ryder's art store on Superior street was the only place with an art gallery that could properly be called such. It never paid of course, but an exhibition of paintings in the small, yet at least well lighted room, saw many of the people who cared for art matters. The year 1893 saw the only great exposition of fine arts ever held in the city of Cleveland. It was known as the Art Loan exhibition, and housed in the Garfield building. The times were bad then, and the suffering was great among the poor. The rich people felt it their duty to do something for the alleviation of the general suffering. Someone proposed an art exhibit, one worthy of the name. The possessors of paintings all over the land were appealed to. The response was generous, and in a short time several, hundreds of worthy pictures could be hung. The success of the enterprise was gratifying in the extreme. A large sum was realized and turned over to the poor funds. Of Clevelanders, Professor Chas. Olney, Mr. Chas. F. Brush, and Mr. W. J. White, all possessors of collections of fine paintings, had most willingly robbed their walls of their treasures in order to insure the artistic success of the exhibition. The following year a second exhibition of the same nature was arranged. This time, however, some great patriot proposed that only American paintings be admitted and carried the day. The result was a certain monotony of style and execution. Of special interest in connection with this exhibition, was a collection of statuary and a room filled with Napoleonic relics. It was something new in Cleveland and drew large crowds. Thus the second and last art loan exhibition on a large scale was also a successful enterprise. Since then we have seen some things of great artistic values, but at very rare occasions. At times there were on exhibition in the Olney Art gallery Michael Munkacsy's "Christ before Pilate" and "The Last Moments of Mozart," both paintings of world wide fame. Gerome's "Crucifixion" and "The King of the Desert" were also in this gallery which was closed in 1907 after the death of its owner. The art treasures were left by him to Oberlin college, a fact regretfully to be mentioned, by the Cleveland public who had learned to love its treasures. Out of the grave of La Boheme arose the present period of our art life which finds its concentration in the School of Art and its exhibitions. A new institution was founded on the west side of the city under the name of Westend Art School, and incorporated in the year 19o9. As yet the enterprise is small, but has a most energetic young sculptress, Miss Anna Pfenninger at its head. The artists not connected with the School of Art are leading a somewhat lonely 462 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND life, since their scattering at the close of the city hall studios. Shortly afterward they had opened up a small club house on Bolivar avenue, where they came together for a social evening talking shop and smoking long pipes. But these meetings were the last flickerings of a will-of-the-wisp existence and soon died out. It is not unlikely that the death of Conrad Mizer who was the soul of this club, hastened its dissolution. "Cooney," as the artists proudly called him, was not a painter, but a tailor by trade, and through love a protector of fine arts, a friend of the people, the founder and manager of popular summer and winter concerts. A memorial fountain is erected in his honor in Edgewater park, and well does he deserve this distinction. Mizer was a poor man, but rich in enthusiasm for the beautiful and for mankind. He died rather young and much regretted. His portrait has been painted by one of his artist friends, and, no doubt, will find a place some day in the new art museum to be erected in the near future. If one thing is lacking sorely in the art life of Cleveland, it is an art museum. There is today in the city no place where an art student or a lover of art may draw inspiration from the works of great masters. But the time is coming, when a million dollar art gallery will look down upon the pretty lake in Wade park. Years ago the munificence of the Wade family provided the site, after three well meaning citizens, H. B. Hurlbut, Thomas Kelley, and John Huntington, had left large bequests for the erection of an art museum. The funds were put into the hands of a few trustees, who as careful and farseeing business men consolidated these donations, took good care of land and money, thus increasing in the course of time the original values, until they are now in possession of a sum large enough to accomplish a great task. The plans for the building are ready and show a work of art worthy to shelter the best masterpieces. A collection of art objects is awaiting the new home. It is scattered at the present time. A few paintings are stored away in the basement of the city hall, another number in rooms in the Rose building, and some more in private houses. Thus a nucleus is already formed for Cleveland's first public collection of art treasures. Looking back upon the last thirty years upon the art life of Cleveland, we find a steady development, keeping step with the growth of the city. The latter, too, advanced in an artistic way, and the fact that the creation of an art commission by the legislature has earnestly been suggested, is highly gratifying. Some of the newer buildings in our city show decided architectural merit, and sculptural work or frescos of a modern type. The new government building with its groups of "Justice" and "Commerce," by D. C. French, furnishes a good example of what our public buildings should be. A masterly achievement of the plastic art is the figure of "Justice," with its fine face of repose and distain. The mural designs in the business place of the Cleveland Savings & Trust Company furnish another example of the awakening desire for artistic beauty. The building that today expresses the most advanced step toward architectural embellishment is the home of the First National bank on Euclid avenue. Here we find a facade of great strength and characteristic conception. There is nothing similar in the whole city, nothing that may be compared with the strong figures, which were modeled to be viewed from a HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 463 distance and are thus rather gaining than losing. But what shall we say of the soldiers' and sailors' monument in the public square, and of its location ? A different monument of the artistic progress of the city of Cleveland is the socalled Group Plan. This plan aims at a grouping of our future public buildings of which the new postoffice and the new courthouse, also in the course of erection and soon to be finished, form two important parts. A city hall and a main library are to be erected next. The courthouse will be ornamented by the statues of fourteen famous lawgivers, two of which were executed by a Cleveland sculptor. This leads us to the history of sculpture within the city. While there is little to write about sculptural art in Cleveland, we still have and have had some sculptors worthy of the name. The most distinguished sculptor who ever made his home in Cleveland is Herman N. Matzen, at the present time one of the professors of the School of Art. He came to this city as a young man, being born in the north of Europe. After a short stay, he returned to the old world, where he studied his art in Berlin and Paris and became a member of the Berlin Royal Academy of Fine Arts. A call from Indianapolis, where a great soldiers' and sailors' monument was under erection, brought him back to this country. He executed the two now famous groups of War and Peace, works full of motion and noble lines. The Cleveland School of Art was in need of an artist and teacher like Herman Matzen, and thus we find him again in our city, where he has done some really artistic things. His most conspicuous work is his statue of Moses, which, together with his Pope Gregory IX, will form two of the fourteen lawgivers to be placed on the new courthouse. His conception of Moses is unique, and yet truer than most of the figures of this ancient giant of intellect. The Moses of Matzen is an old man of strength and soul nobility, one of the superhuman kind that are not born every century, but once in a millennium. The execution of this work of art shows a perfect technique of treatment. The figure is erect, firm of step and resolution, yet there is a certain repose in its very strength, a compactness in the handling of the material which creates unity, of much importance in the true art of sculpture. His pope is hardly less meritorious as a piece of plastic art, but naturally does not attract the same attention. There were many popes: there was but one Moses. The Schiller monument in Detroit, representing the great German poet in his last years, shows Matzen in one of his best moods, and is distinguishable by the beautiful repose of the figure and the pensiveness of the facial expression. Another remarkable piece of work is his Burke mausoleum at Lake View cemetery, planned by himself and executed under his direction. There, architect and sculptor are one. He shows his mastery of the two different branches, which should form a complete harmony whenever brought in contact with each other. Akron, Ohio, possesses at its new courthouse two statues of his, representing Justice and Law. Both are classical figures of the Roman type, very expressive and very appropriate. As an artist, Herman Matzen is a rugged man of northern power, imbued with a sense of line, form and strength, and alive with an enthusiasm for his work that is marvelous and contagious. Yet, this Thorwaldsen has the unre- 464 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND lenting critic in him, who, like Faust, is never satisfied, and who storms forward to better and higher achievements. Cleveland may claim another artist of distinction in Luella Varney, whose home has been for years in Rome, but who was born in our city. She went to Italy a young girl, where she caught the Roman fever, speaking in an artistic sense, and could never free herself from it. One of her most beautiful pieces of work is her Perkins' memorial in Lake View cemetery, a little north from the Garfield monument. It represents the figure in bronze of a young girl of inimitable charm. The youthfulness of the nude body is as lithe as the dawn of a beautiful day. It thus expresses the symbolism of the awakening in another and better world. The sculptress is also a fine portraitist who has made some busts of distinguished citizens of Cleveland, and one of Mark Twain. The likeness of the latter is perfect, and there is life in the bronze features. A young sculptress of promise is Miss Anna Pfenninger, also Cleveland born and principal of the Westend Art School as mentioned before. Her bust of Abraham Lincoln has found much favor among connoisseurs, as has also the bust of the former president, Carl Riemenschneider, of Wallace college, Berea. Among the younger element, Walter Zinz and Richard Ernst deserve mentioning. As assistants to Professor Matzen, they have shown much talent and diligence. From time to time a wandering sculptor has found his way to Cleveland, but never to rest long. It is only of late that the possibility of eking out a living has presented itself to these artists. The two Herkomers, fathers of Hubert and John, and clever wood carvers and decorators, settled in Cleveland over thirty years ago, but were unable to subside any length of time, and removed finally with their families to England. Some of the old mansions on Euclid avenue show still in their interior work the rare skill of the Herkomers. As to the rest, a clever stone cutter sufficed in those days to do the artistic details then in demand on new buildings. A young man, now famous, found his way about 1886 to the studios in the city hall. It was Carl Niehaus, the New York sculptor. He, too, was unable to remain long in Cleveland. He went to Germany and later to Italy, learning and studying his art with great earnestness. Returning to New York, he soon found well deserved recognition and is today one of the best known American sculptors. Geo. Rackle, who died at the beginning of 1909, an old man, was well known as a sculptor within the city of Cleveland. His best effort was the fountain in the lake at Wade park, a piece of work not to be despised. Another artist who left his mark was the sculptor Hamilton, creator of our Moses Cleaveland, on the public square and the Harvey Rice monument in Wade park. George Heidenreich, wood carver and sculptor created a heroic bust of Schiller, for the Schiller Goethe association. This work adorns now the Cleveland Public library. Besides the already mentioned monuments, the city possesses a few statues of great artists. There is the Schiller-Goethe monument by Ernst Rietschell of Weimar, a present of the German-American population of Cleveland ; further a Perry monument by Jones, and a Mark Hanna, by St. Gaudens. The first two have their places in Wade park, the last mentioned in the University circle. The HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 465 bronze statutes of two heroes of liberty, Kosciuszko of Poland and Kossuth of Hungary honor their countrymen, but they cannot be classed as real works of art. The statues ordered for the new courthouse will be fine specimens of the sculptor's art, the models at this time being all finished. The list is as follows : Jefferson and Hamilton, by Karl Bitter of New York, Marshall and Ranney by Herbert Adams of New York. These four American lawgivers are to be cast in bronze, while the other statues will be of marble, thus : Moses and Gregory IX, by Herman N. Matzen of Cleveland; Justinian and Alfred the Great, by Isador Konti of Yonkers, New York; Edward I and John Hampden, by Daniel C. French of New York; John Somers and Lord Mansfield, by Karl Bitter, and Stephen Langdon and Simon de Montford, by Herbert Adams of New York. The development of the art of painting in Cleveland could best be studied at the early exhibitions of the work of our artists. Nowadays these exhibitions are mostly confined to the Cleveland School of Art. But once in a great while a group of paintings is seen in one or the other of the art stores downtown. The result is that fewer people, are able to view them, although the exhibitions at the School of Art, are, as a rule, well patronized. It is not saying too much that the progress of our painters is laudably to be commented on. Yet, on the other hand, it is also true that the great initiative is missing, the force that creates works of an exceptional character. While our artists are progressive in technical things, they seem to lack in conception, in the faculty of seeing the most modern thing, such as a city of today. The charms of nature are always admirable, and welcome, and reposeful to the eye and the soul. But the work of man, too, has its artistic aspect. A trip up the river discloses features of strength and beauty, a look over the harbor in daytime or at night is a look into wonderland. Very seldom do we get a glimpse of these things in the studios. Our rich business men, who like to buy pictures from foreign artists, ought to encourage our painters to depict their great establishments, the fiery hells of their furnaces, and their gigantic buildings wherein the world's work is done. There are, at least, two painters in Cleveland who can do those things-F. C. Gottwald and Henry George Keller. Both of these men are artists of reputation, teachers at the School of Art, clever and modern. F. C. Gottwald, one of the founders of the original Art club has always been identified with the art life of Cleveland. He studied and painted in Munich, Holland, France and Italy. Many a fine painting stands to his credit. His versatility is remarkable. The moist Netherlands and sunny Italy yield their different charms with equal cheerfulness to his brush. His last pictures from southern Italy were revelations of coloration and sunshine, and full of poetical conception. But with not less truth, does he express the rainy climate of Holland and the characteristics of her fascinating women and her hearty men. Frederic Carl Gottwald is a scholar and an artist of refinement. He is indefatigable in research, and in the study of the great masters, and always on the alert to discover the secret of his art. By nature he is an excellent teacher. Henry George Keller of the Palatinate came to Cleveland at the age of two months and was raised and educated in our city. His first ambition was to be a sculptor but he finally fell into the hands of a painter, and painter he became, and a painter he is. A good, strong painter with a fearless brush and full of 466 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND good ideas. He still has a tender spot for sculpture but practical art claimed him at the beginning, and so he worked at circus posters, saving money for his higher education. He studied at Karlsruhe, Dusseldorf, Munich, and Paris, won a stipendium, composition prizes, a silver medal, and also a journey to Italy. Finally returning to Cleveland he was engaged by the School of Art, of which he is is one of the most successful teachers. His work in water and oil shows the rational impressionist and he has done some beautiful things in his time. A great friend of nature, he is not only a good landscape painter but also a fine observer of animal life. Among the teachers of the Sch0ol of Art, there is another artist who deserves mentioning as a successful man. Louis Rohrheimer, interior decorator and designer, is Cleveland born. He received his art education in the old world, studying at first under Herman Matzen and then in Paris, London and Munich. At present he is head instructor of decorative designs, and is conducting a large establishment, beautifying the interior of public and private buildings. Painting in water colors in the school is taught by Grace Veronica Kelley, a lady of much talent and versatility in using the brush. Next to her is Nina V. Waldeck, who, too, was educated in the school and afterward went to New York and then to Paris, where she studied at the famous Julian academy. Cartooning is taught by James Harrison Donahey, the famous cartoonist of the "Cleveland Plain Dealer" and the well known "Uncle Biff." The latter is a jolly, village blacksmith and Donahey's most popular creation. As a cartoonist Donahey wields an exceedingly clever pencil; his humor is never offensive and shows the man of heart. He is of a creative mind, studious, modest, and altogether a charming fellow, and a real artist. Some of the founders of the first art club of Cleveland have become famous and achieved an international reputation, some are dead, and others still among the quick we have with us as was shown above. Of the Herkomers, Hubert, cousin of Herman, is likely the most widely known of our artists. Hubert is the head and soul of the artists' colony at Bushey, near London, where he possesses a magnificent home and a great studio. His old uncle John, the wood carver, is still with him, and also Herman Herkomer, who returns to this country now and then to execute a few portraits of rich Americans. Daniel and Emil Wehrschmidt are members of the Bushey colony, painting and teaching. Daniel has a good name in London as an engraver of splendid ability. Another of our painters who made England his home after a long sojourn in France is Max Bohn, a giant in wielding the brush. He carried away a gold medal from the French Salon. His love for sea and sailor formed more than once the inspirati0n for pictures of great strength and beauty. He also excels in mural decorations, and has only lately been called back to Cleveland to adorn the new courthouse with frescos. Much may be expected of him. Arthur Schneider was for a number of years court painter to his highness the Sultan of Morocco, and a fine courtly painter he is, whose water colors of his temporary African home are full of interest and artistic conception. Of our other painters, George Grossmann and Ott0 Bacher belong t0 the art colony of New York where they are respected landscape painters. Louis Loeb died recently in his summer home in Stamford county, at the age of forty-two HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 467 years. His first artistic training was gained at the Morgan Lithographing Company. A few years later he went to New York where he became known as a magazine illustrator. His ambition made for the higher art, and he went to Paris to study under Gerome. Returned to America, he settled in New York and became soon known as a portrait painter of great ability. A few more of the old guard are not accounted for. One of the last artists to leave the city hall was John Kavannaugh, lovable as man, independent as artist, a poet and landscape painter, he was slowly starving to death. Finally he sold his sketches, paintings, and other works of art at auction, in order to be able to die in peace. John Semon, one of the best landscape painters in this region and elsewhere, leads the life of a hermit of the forest. Seldom does he come from his abode in Bedford to the city, but his woodland interiors testify to his beautiful art and his great devotion to nature. O. V. Schubert is among the quaint, silent artists. George Groll is drownmg in business, but still painting a little on Sunday ; and Adam Lehr, a master in still life tries his hand at landscape painting with indifferent success. A. M. Willard, who became famous as the Yankee Doodle painter, has lately modeled the figures of his picture in clay, with fine success. Ora Coltman has achieved success with his fine water colors. His visits to Europe are always productive of pleasing sketches. He designed the splendid tablet to Carnegie in the Woodland branch library. Among the younger men is Charles Francis De Klyne, an artist of no mean talent. There is a pleasing gentleness in his landscapes and marines. He joined the Art club, painting with Willard and F. H. Tompkins. While still a youth he went to New York to study under W. Chase, Turner and Kenyon Cox and thence to Paris. After returning to Cleveland he, for a time, was instructor at the Art club and at the School of Art. One of his costudents in Cleveland was Joe DeCamp, another gifted young man who became a successful artist. Other artists of Cleveland entitled to honorable mention as painters of worthy aims and accomplishments are George B. Bradley, landscape painter ; F. W. Simmons, a fine portraitist ; Caroline Wittlesey, acquarellist ; Wilhelm G. Reindel, landscapes; F. W. Edmonson, portraits; Homer E. Potter, decorative designer ; May Ames, who studied in Greece and Italy ; R. B. Farnum, a draftsman of repute; Martha Weaver, working in ceramics, also Carrie Osborn, now living in Paris, and finally Maude Stumm, well known in New York as a gifted woman. This sketch of the art history of Cleveland would remain incomplete without the mention of some of the "Wandervoegel" that have been known here. Who does not remember the unfortunate DeScott Evans? His last exhibition at Natt's art gallery (also a thing of the past and replaced by the Guenther gallery on Euclid avenue) revealed an artist full of original conception. He and his two daughters were among the victims of the ill fated steamer "La Bourgogne." A , man of still more talent, and well known in Cleveland was F. H. Tompkins now of Boston. The strength of his execution and of his sense of color showed great artistic virility. His portraits are alive with the glow of light and the warmth of blood. The man he paints is not a shadow. Another artist who spent some time in Cleveland and who made a reputation for himself in Munich is Silas Wenban, 468 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND noted steel engraver. A famous scholar of a famous master was the animal painter Joseph Thormann, years ago one of the members of the old Art club. Anton Grub, well known landscape painter, but dead these twenty years, was in his young days one of Cleveland's promising artists. The cyclorama painter Levi, will also be remembered by many as a virile personality among our artists. It may be said that today the first epoch of the art life in Cleveland is nearing its end, and that a new era is at hand. The exterior sign will be seen in the new Art museum. The time of La Boheme is past and gone forever. There will still be starving artists, but they will starve in a dress suit. The Dutch clay pipe and the "stein' have vanished, and with them the gay and boisterous merrymaking. Serious work will be done in the future as well as it was done in the past. The outlook is not bad, and the further development of our art life will keep step with the growth and advancement of our city. CHAPTER L. ARCHITECTURE. By Frank S. Barnum, of the Cleveland Chapter Am. Inst., of Architects. The term Architecture is used in its broadest sense in this chapter. Cleveland, as has already been shown, had its origin in the determinations of a party of surveyors under the direction of Moses Cleaveland, beginning a survey and platting of the town about the middle of 1796. There are some slight references to a storehouse near the mouth of the river, found by them on their arrival. But so far as definite records show, having pretty well completed the survey of the town near the end of the year, and being about to return to their homes, they built the first residence erected in Cleveland as a home for Job Stiles, one of the party, who with his wife, was to remain and winter in the wilds of Cuyahoga. With Edward Paine, they became the first permanent residents of Cleveland, occupying their own home upon their own homestead, being original lot No. 53, located upon the north side of Superior street very near the present intersection of Bank (West Third) street. In the following year, James Kingsbury built himself a home upon lot 64, located on Superior street a little east of the new postoffice site, or almost exactly in the line of the north and south axis of the proposed mall. These homes were log cabins, not over large or pretentious, probably nothing more than would afford shelter and meet the very simple requirements of primitive pioneer life. It appears that in this same year, 1797, Lorenzo Carter erected a cabin near the river and Mandrake lane. It is possible that this "cabin" of Major Carter was larger and had better accommodations than others, as it is related that "Within its hospitable log walls were held the councils of the settlers, the social gatherings and public merry makings." HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 469 From such humble beginnings Cleveland has grown, having no advantages over other similar settlements, save those vouchsafed by nature and such as may have been due to the superior intelligence and force of character of its early inhabitants. Building progressed according to the actual needs of the growing community. For some years, at least, the settlers for the most part were of a class endowed more liberally with energy and thrift than with wealth, and such capital as was possessed found ready employment in trade and in such improvements as were actually required by the growth of the community and consequent enlargement of its business activities. Naturally, in the crystallization of the community, the needs of government became apparent, and with its development came the need of shelter for the conduct of its functions, the storage of records and the detention of offenders. Education and religion, most important factors in the physical development, as well as in determining the character of any community, soon received recognition; though it is significant that the jail preceded the schoolhouse several years and no religious society was organized until four years later. And the first church building was not finished until 1829, or within three years of the building of a second and larger jail. In the year 1800 James Kingsbury built the first saw mill in Newburg, from where, for some years, the lumber used in Cleveland was hauled. Just when the first brick yard was started, does not appear, but it must have been very early; as also the opening of some of the exhaustless sandstone deposits in the near vicinity. With reference to the buildings erected during the first two decades records are almost completely lacking; but from such references as we find, and the pretty definite records of a few buildings, it may be safely assumed that during this period all buildings erected were of the simplest, only such as would be required to meet the practical needs of the community. In 1812 the first courthouse was erected, in the northwest section of the public square. It was a two story building referred to as being built of logs ; but one account says "of hewn timbers, or blocks, three feet long laid transversely so as to make a wall of solid wood three feet thick as a safeguard against the escape of prisoners." It seems reasonable to suppose, however, that this construction obtained only in the jail portion. The first story included the jail or "lockup" and rooms to accommodate the sheriff and family, the second story being taken up with the courtroom. The illustration is reproduced from a water color made by Otto Ruetenik in 1875 for Mr. Waterman from notes and a small pencil sketch furnished by him. The first schoolhouse was a very simple one room frame building twenty-four by thirty feet, built about 1816, on the south side of St. Clair street, just a little east of Bank street. In 1821 there was completed almost directly opposite this first school building the Cleveland academy, a two story brick building, more pretentious but still severely plain. Both these buildings were erected at private expense but in 1817 the village treasury returned to the subscribers the cost of the one room build- 470 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND ing, and some years later the academy and its lot were purchased by the board of education. The log cabin of the earlier years was followed by the framed timber building at first of simplest form and plainest finish. But the steady growth 0f the village with its constant demand for homes for its families, its trade, its manufactures, its government, schools and churches caused a development along architectural lines both interesting and instructive. As the town grew_ wealth accumulated and with it the desire for better buildings. Conditions had changed from that of a struggle for subsistence and to transform the wilderness, to that of a regulated community, with growing aspirations and desires to express its importance, to satisfy its religious, its educational and its intellectual needs and in the doing of these and many other things was Cleveland built. Homes were erected that were expressive of the social and financial status of their owners and probably, to some extent at least, of their tastes. In most cases the designs for these buildings were provided by their builders and were usually the work of their own hands, inspired by some of the few works upon building and architecture then available, most of them English publications. These designers were for the most part mechanics, usually carpenters, who had been thoroughly trained in England or Europe where no mechanic was a finished workman who was not something of a draftsman, reasonably familiar with and capable of drawing the common architectural forms in use at the time and able to copy readily from the plates in his text-books. Probably in most cases, at least of the more important residences they were literal copies, which would account for the fact that much of the work of those days was in better taste and conformed more closely to the canons of architecture than the buildings that followed them. What has been named "Georgian" architecture and which in the United States we speak of as "Colonial," has in its highest expression much beauty of proportion coupled with great refinement of detail. And if there was a lack of originality, strict adherence to the text-book produced a class of buildings that did not offend good taste and for many years saved the town from the bizarre and startling forms in wood, brick and stone of later and more venturesome artists ( ?) not hampered by over much education nor any lack of confidence in their own creative genius. A new and growing community offered an attractive field for the educated builder especially if gifted with genius enough to modify and adapt the text-book design to the tastes and requirements of his prospective patron without destroying its character. Such men became the builder architects of Cleveland, and it is no doubt due to them that most of the homes and many of the other buildings of their day were at least void of offense. Indeed much of the domestic architecture of the early half of the nineteenth century, down to a time when the size and more rapid growth of Cleveland attracted the professional architect, was refined and scholarly and would easily put to shame most of the work that immediately followed it. Instances are not wanting, indeed, some of us living, have assisted in the dismantling of buildings of classic or colonial character that had been the homes of families HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 471 for more than one, possibly two generations, to "modernize" and abort these dignified and venerable "homes" every line of which was associated with all that word implies ; interwoven with the lives of their occupants. Fortunately the march of business has already relegated some of these improvements ( ?) to oblivion. And if the "skyscraper" does not fully satisfy the ideal of artistic expression, it usually expresses the purpose it is intended to serve and, m many instances, shows a knowledge of the principles of design and, so far as carefully studied and consistent detail can, an effort to, as far as possible, soften the blow it gives the sensitive beholder. But to resume again the slender thread of history. In 1828-9 Trinity corporation erected the first house of worship in the village- although the church had been organized in 1817. This church building was of frame construction but was distinctly gothic as to its details. It was located at the corner of St. Clair and Seneca (West Second) street. The first Presbyterian church to be erected was that of the First Presbyterian society, upon the lot still occupied as its church home at the northwest corner of the public square and Ontario street. This building was erected in 1834. The design was Georgian, the front being relieved by pilasters and the roof of medium pitch being crowned with a belfry. This church being the first to be built of stone, was called the Stone church and later the "Old Stone church," which name it is and has been known by for many years. The first Baptist organization built in 1835 a brick church, fifty-five by eighty feet, located at the corner of Seneca (West Third) and Champlain streets, said to have been in the "tuscan" style. Its "tower" contained a town clock and a very large bell. The interior is said to have been "plain but magnificent" and in the Doric style. Probably this building was the most pretentious of any erected up to this time, with the possible exception of the second courthouse, built in 1828. It was placed in the southwest quarter of the square, being somewhat elevated above the street. It was of the prevalent colonial type, its walls of brick being relieved by pilasters, frieze and cornice of the Doric order, surmounted by a pediment or low pitched gable, above which rose a belfry decorated with columns of the Ionic order, and having a domical roof with lantern at apex. Four years later a jail was built in the rear of the courthouse, fronting upon Champlain street. It was a perfectly plain, two story building of stone. During these years many residences were built, but apparently none of them very pretentious. The public square seems to have been an attractive locality and in the year 1824 Leonard Case built a modest home at the northeast c0rner of Superior street, and a frame office building in the rear facing upon the square. Later he sold this property to the United States government for a postoffice site. An old print of the public square in 1833 shows a commodious residence at the northeast corner of Ontari0 street, where the Society for Savings building now stands. This home was built by Mr. N. E. Critttenden, was of rough stone and of colonial type. It was two stories with basement and attic, having gables at its ends and dormer windows in the front slope of roof. With cornices, win- 472 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND dow frames, portico, etc., painted white, and green blinds, it presented a very attractive but dignified appearance. (1) At the southeast corner of Superior street and the square stood the Lemen cottage, a story and a half frame house, with a piazza along the entire west front. Superior street, which up to 1865 extended only to Erie (East Ninth) street, was rapidly built up with attractive and more or less pretentious residences, as was also the corresponding section of Euclid avenue. Many of the substantial men of Cleveland had their homes within this section during the period between 1830 and 1870, though others located at considerable distances from the business center, upon St. Clair, Euclid, Woodland avenue, and upon the west side. The residence of T. P. May, one of the city's early merchants, was located upon Erie street facing Superior street, and was torn down in 1865 to open Superior street to the eastward. This house was of brick with heavy woodwork, painted entirely white, with green blinds. It is typical of a class of unpretentious but comfortably ample homes of the period. It was probably built about 1840. The first home of Hon. Harvey Rice was built about the same time. It was located on Woodland avenue about a mile and one half south of the public square, there being quite a colony of the older residents who built homes in that locality, most of them of ample size and all of them of the colonial types. The home of Erastus Gaylord on Woodland avenue, was built by Dr. David Long about 1836 and sold to Mr. Gaylord, who moved into it in 1846, and lived in it until his death. This house was of stone. The home of Governor Wood was several miles west of the city, upon what was then known as the Ridge road, which followed the shore of the lake, though at a distance of several hundred feet. Cleveland having been incorporated as a city in 1836, assumed new dignity and importance; and improvements both public and private, but more especially the latter were made more and more generously and with greater regard for their permanence and the social position of their owners. Unfortunately nearly all of the more important and interesting buildings of this period of the city's early growth have succumbed to the march of progress and improvement and very few records of these buildings remain. The building that was for many years the home of the Union club was the residence of Hon. George B. Senter, mayor of Cleveland in the year 1859-60. The front of this building received very little change and is typical of many homes that graced Euclid avenue, Superior, and other important streets. Of these one of the best, and, leaving the inappropriateness of massive Ionic columns being constructed of wood out of consideration, the home of Stillman Witt at the corner of Euclid avenue and Muirson street was an excellent specimen of the type; unfortunately no picture of this house, which was remodeled in 1875, can be found. Of the men who were responsible for the designs of the buildings of all these earlier years scarcely a trace can be found. The name of Charles W. Heard, who as the firm of Heard & Son was the architect of the building occupied by the city as its city hall at present, and for 1 - It stood until removed to make way for the Society for Savings building and for some years before was occupied as offices. HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 473 more than twenty-five years past, appears in the city directory for 1856 as associated in the firm of Heard & Porter, architects, and is mentioned in the first directory of Cleveland, 1837, as a carpenter. He was also associated with Walter Blythe in the early '70s, and must have had a very large part in determining the form and details of many of the buildings of early Cleveland. J. M. Blackburn's name is given in the directory of 1856 as architect and builder. He continued to practice as an architect until about the time of his death, which was near 1890. Of all these designers of the early days, perhaps none was better qualified to bear the title of architect than J. J. Husband who, among other buildings was architect of the present, or third courthouse, as it was before the two upper stories were added, and of the Euclid avenue Presbyterian church, at the corner of Euclid and Brownell (East Fourteenth) street. Of the buildings erected during the two decades following the close of the war little can be said in their praise. Many of these years were years of considerable activity and here and there a building indicated more than ordinary care and understanding upon the part of its designer. Among these may be mentioned the National Bank building at the northeast corner of Superior and Water streets still standing, and the first home of the Society for Savings on the public square, torn down to make way for the Chamber of Commerce. Both of these were among the earlier work of Joseph Ireland and were erected in or near the year 1870. The sheriff's residence and jail by Walter Blythe, erected in 1876-7 were far above the average of that time. But probably the structures not deserving of censure erected during the period indicated could be counted upon the fingers of one hand. The World's Centennial exposition at Philadelphia in 1876 gave an impetus to art of all kinds, but especially to industrial and the building arts, all over the country. Added to this there was a very powerful influence due to the starting of several architectural periodicals and the publication of the designs of a number of the eastern architects who had recently studied abroad and brought to this country the inspiration that can only be found where architecture has been the growth of centuries. These influences fell into the mass of the younger, growing generation of architects and draughtsmen, like the lump of leaven of old, and in the uplift that was felt all over the country Cleveland had its share. Results were by no means instantaneous and the desire to throw off fetters and be original produced many incongruities. Indeed the development was very slow for the end is not yet. But here and there a building has been produced that is satisfying and will continue to be, so long as it stands ; because it fulfills every_ practical and aesthetic requirement. Along with the inspiration that was affecting the profession as individuals arose a desire for closer relationship and intercourse, and as early as the year 1878 an attempt at organization was made, but it was not until 1880 or '81 that an architectural society was actually formed with eight charter members and called the Cleveland Architectural club. This society has had a continuous existence since its formation but was reorganized April 7, 1887, as a chapter of The 474 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND American Institute of Architects and has since that time, borne the name of the Cleveland Chapter American Institute of Architects. The society has never included within its membership a large percentage of the practicing architects of Cleveland, but has had all of the most prominent men and has at all ;times stood for the highest ideals of its art and the ethics of its practice ; and has been foremost in every movement for the architectural betterment 0f the city. In 1894, the older draughtsmen with some of the practicing architects, organized a junior society intended mainly as an educating factor, aiming at the benefits to be gotten from closer contact, comparisons of ideas, the solving of problems in planning and design to be undertaken in competition with each other, and such other advantages as might naturally accrue as a result of cooperation. This society took the name of the Cleveland Architectural club. In March, 1895, the Cleveland Architectural club instituted as a club problem to be worked out by its members in competition the "Grouping of Cleveland's Public Buildings." The widest latitude was allowed as to location and the result indicated a great diversity of opinion upon this important point, the ex, tremes reaching Brownell street on the east, Bolivar on the south, Seneca on the west and Lake Erie on the north. To the best of the writer's recollection, the premiated design covered pretty nearly the same territory now determined upon. The best of these designs were published with favorable comments by the newspapers, but little seemed to have been accomplished in a public way. However the seed had been dropped and, although it remained dormant for some time, it had not died, for in 1898 Professor C. F. Olney, who had acted as one of the judges of the club competition, and who continued one of the most earnest advocates of the idea up to the time of his death, was instrumental in securing the appointment of the Chamber of Commerce "Committee on Grouping Plan for Public buildings," three years after the club competition. Interest having been somewhat revived, the club held a second competition in 1899 and when the drawings were hung, the members of the various boards and committees interested were invited to a public meeting and the plans were carefully explained. Throughout the ensuing winter the Architectural club conducted a campaign of public education by the means of talks given by its members before various public bodies, clubs, men's leagues, etc., using the competition drawings for the purpose of illustration. In January, 1902, The Chamber of Commerce formally recommended as its "plan," the purchase of the land bounded by Seneca street on the west, Erie street on the east, Lake street on the south and Lake Erie on the north, grouping the principal buildings along the northerly side of Lake street. This plan had little to recommend it but its comparative cheapness. It had its advocates and its vigorous opponents ; and for a time it seemed as if the whole idea might be lost through controversy. Fortunately the idea of securing expert advice of the highest order was suggested and receiving the hearty support of the Chamber of Commerce, legislation was secured creating HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 475 the group plan commission, to which three architects of national reputation were appointed by the governor. This commission at once took up the problem and evolved the plan substantially as now being developed. The importance and value of this conception in its effect upon the architectural development of the city, can hardly be overestimated and it is but just that the Architectural club be given full credit for, what seems to be, the original conception of the idea, and for its persistent work in influencing public opinion in its favor. The building of the new postoffice and making of it a monumental building worthy of its place at the southern extremity of the group, followed as it has been by the courthouse at the north end, have apparently determined its limits, and made certain that all other public and semi-public buildings that conform in their general design, will take their places in what will eventually be one of the grandest and most important architectural conceptions in the world. CHAPTER LI. VISITS OF PRESIDENTS AND OTHER DISTINGUISHED MEN. Before the days of railroad travel the visit of a distinguished man was a rare event and the occasion of holiday rejoicing, particularly in the smaller towns. Even since the railways have made travel easy, the visit of a president, or a distinguished public man, is an occasion of unusual interest. The first presidential visit to Cleveland was made by Martin Van Buren. William Henry Harrison visited Cleveland in 1813, as General of the Army and in 1840 as a presidential candidate. But Van Buren was the first ex-President to visit us. In 1842 he made an extensive trip to the western country. June 27th the city council resolved that he "be respectfully invited to visit Cleveland on his return from the west." At a public meeting in the courthouse the details for his reception were perfected and a letter of invitation sent him to Columbus to which he promptly replied that he would arrive in Cleveland, July 12th, at 11 a. m. from Detroit. The committee went to Detroit to meet him. When the boat was sighted nearing our harbor the customary salute was fired from the brow of the hill near the lighthouse. The Cleveland Grays acting as guard, escorted the ex- President to the American house from the docks by way of Superior street, thence down Water to St. Clair to Ontario, to Superior and the 'American House, so everybody in town had an opportunity to see him. On the balcony of the hotel he was formally welcomed, and Van Buren replied graciously with his habitual serenity, speaking of the greatness of the west, the canals, their possibilities, and uttering the customary urbane prophecies about the future greatness of the town. Then followed a general handshaking and in the evening a reception given especially for the ladies, who were greatly charmed by Van Buren's polished courtesy. At 11 p. m. he left by steamer for Buffalo, accompanied to the dock by the band and a display of fireworks. 476 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND The following year John Quincy Adams passed through Cleveland on his way to Cincinnati. He reached here on the morning of November II, 1843, by boat from Buffalo. The boat arrived unexpectedly early and the committee that had been appointed to meet him, was not on hand. The expresident's arrival was not heralded by bells and cannon, but handbills were at once distributed and the news carried from house to house that the distinguished visitor was to speak in the Congregational church (on the north side of the Square) at 11 o'clock. In spite of the short notice and the stormy weather, a crowd filled the church. Sherlock J. Andrews introduced the statesman to the audience. He was in his best spirits and spoke in his finest style of the development of this region since the Revolution. It was his first visit to Lake Erie and he was enthusiastic over the possibilities of its commerce. Unfortunately there is no verbatim report of his speech preserved. His unaffected and sincere manner delighted everyone and when he left by canal for the south he carried with him the best wishes of the townsfolk. In 1837 Daniel Webster journeyed to the west. The "Herald" for July 15th announced that Webster was in Detroit and "may doubtless be expected here in a day or two. He arrived in Detroit on Saturday evening last by Toledo, having crossed the peninsula of Michigan and came by railroad to the latter named place." This was, no doubt, one of Webster's first railroad rides, for the stretch of road over which he traveled to Detroit was one of the first built in the country. On account of the assembling of congress he declined the invitation to pay Cleveland a visit. A postscript published in the "Herald" of the same date states "Saturday morning, 6 :30 o'clock. The Hon. Daniel Webster arrived here this morning at 5 o'clock on the steamboat 'Thomas Jefferson' and left at 6 :30. Only a small portion of our citizens had an opportunity of seeing him. He is hastening homeward." This was the only time that the great orator visited Cleveland. Henry Clay's visit to Cleveland was but a little longer than that of his distinguished colleague. A message was received in Cleveland that Clay would arrive here from Sandusky on the steamer "Saratoga." A salute fired from the brow of Lighthouse hill announced his coming and a throng of citizens were at the wharf to welcome him. An informal reception was held on board the boat, Mayor Bingham and Alfred Kelley introducing the citizens. Clay was then taken around town in a carriage, through the Square, stopped for a few minutes at the Weddell House, tradition says to visit the bar, and returned to the boat, which at once resumed its way to Buffalo. Clay, accompanied by his son, was on the way to Newport for his health. "The tall erect form of Mr. Clay bears the mark of time and public service," observed the "Herald." The visit of Kossuth to this country was the occasion of an enthusiastic demonstration. A committee of Clevelanders, including John C. Vaughan, J. W. Gray, M. C. Y0unglove, William Slade, Jr. and Dudley Baldwin, were appointed at a public meeting and went to Pittsburg to invite him to Cleveland. Kossuth told the committee that he would be glad to come but he wished no unnecessary expenditure of money on ostentation or banquets. He needed the money for the relief of Hungary. On Saturday evening January 31, 1852. Kossuth arrived by train. He was escorted to the Weddell house by civic and military orders. The following Monday he spoke from the balcony of the American house, after being formally welcomed by the mayor, and in the afternoon at a tremen- HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 477 dous meeting in the Melodeon. Kossuth was a brilliant orator, speaking English with a slight accent. He was also a handsome knight and dressed in the rich velvet costume of his native land, with golden girdle and shining sword, he aroused the most extreme enthusiasm. On Wednesday morning he left for Columbus, accompanied by a. committee, of which Governor Wood was a member. He received about fifteen hundred dollars in contributions for his cause in Cleveland. The tickets for the Melodeon hall meeting cost three and four dollars, a very large price for those days. On September 3, 1866, President Johnson visited Cleveland, on his extensive western trip. It was the first time a President of the United States came to Cleveland during his tenure of office. In the Johnson party were many noted men, including General Grant, Admiral Farragut, Secretary Seward, Secretary Wells, General Custer, Postmaster General Randall. General Grant did not accompany the party to the hotel, but on account of illness went directly to the boat from the depot, and left for Detroit the same evening. The presidential party arrived on the Lake Shore railroad in the afternoon. They were met by committees of soldiers and citizens and escorted to the Kennard House, where an informal supper was served, attended by the city council and invited guests. Afterwards President Johnson was introduced by Mayor Pelton from the balcony of the hotel to the crowd that had gathered. He spoke at considerable length of his theory of reconstruction ; neither his words nor his manner, were well received, his illusions especially to Lincoln arousing the hostility of the people. The next morning the President was escorted dOwn Euclid avenue and took the train for Toledo. J. W. Walton, then a young business man in Cleveland, took an active interest in the presidential visit, and writes the author some interesting details. "Some republicans knowing him, Johnson, to be a 'short' drinker, passed the whiskey freely, and the consequence was what might have been expected. * * * Johnson's vapid speech was set down in shorthand by Hudson or Mason of the 'Leader.' I think, the former. * * * It was a little sandpapered before it was printed next day * * * I was concerned in a banner stretched the next morning from the Forest City House across to Rouse's block and facing the west. On this we had caused to be painted an extract from one of Andy's speeches, while in the house of representatives, taken from the Congressional Record : 'In the work of reconstruction, traitors must be made to take back seats.' A. Johnson. "He saw it as his victoria neared the Public Square and although he had been bowing right and left, he now jammed his beaver hat down over his eyes and kept his glance on the floor of his carriage until he had passed the banner. This I saw. Well, partisanship ran very high then, young folks dearly love a joke and the sentiment was a good one, though mightily unlike what he was talking those days." On August 16, 1870, President Grant passed through the city. He came unheralded and remained only a few hours. But it was soon noised abroad that he was at the. Kennard House and immediately flags were hoisted everywhere and the leading citizens called upon the great soldier and President. He was taken on a drive down Euclid avenue to the residence of J. H. Wade, where he was presented with flowers and some of the choice early grapes that were ripening 478 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND In Mr. Wade's famous garden. On his return to the Kennard House a crowd had gathered and called for a speech. But the reticent soldier remained true to his traditional silence. An informal reception, however, was vouchsafed the people. On October 17, 1873, President Grant again passed through Cleveland on his way east. A private telegram announced his coming. The word spread rapidly. A car was hitched to an engine, a reception committee, headed by Mayor Otis, hurried to Elyria, making the trip in thirty-eight minutes. Flags were everywhere in evidence, and a crowd surrounded the depot,.when the presidential train arrived. Another crowd gathered at the Kennard House, whither the president retired. After a drive down Euclid avenue, the party returned to the Kennard for dinner. Later an informal reception was held, the people filing through the corridors of the hotel. General Grant left the same evening for the east. Since Cleveland has become a metropolis and the leading city on the direct route between New York and Chicago, the visits of the nation's great men have become so numerous that they cease to be of special historic interest. President Cleveland visited the city of his namesake but once and then he made only a brief stop on his way from the funeral of President Hayes of Fremont. President Hayes frequently came to Cleveland for a quiet visit with his friends, as did McKinley, who spent his summers at Canton, and made at least one visit a year to his Warwick, at the beautiful home on Lake avenue. Harrison came here on several occasions, notably in 1890 at the dedication of the Garfield monument. Latterly the annual banquets of the chamber of commerce have brought many distinguished men in public and private life to our door. CHAPTER LII. NOTABLE PUBLIC EVENTS. PUBLIC FUNERALS. The death of President Harrison, April 4, 1841, was announced in the "Daily Herald" of April 9th, with black bands of mourning. The citizens met in the courthouse on the afternoon of April 9th, to hold suitable memorial exercises, with Mayor John W. Allen, presiding, and adopted suitable resolutions, as did also the city council. On the 12th of July, 1850, memorial services for President Taylor were held in Cleveland. All business places closed at noon, flags in the town and on the shipping were at half mast, and at 4 o'clock p. m., a meeting was held in the Square. Mayor Case presided and orations were delivered by Reuben Wood and William Johnson, then visiting in the city. By a strange coincidence, these gentlemen were both candidates for the governorship, Wood on the democratic and Johnson on the whig ticket. Suitable resolutions were offered by John C. Vaughn. A military parade was also held. The Cleveland Battalion under Colonel Meek, marched through the streets, the band playing a funeral dirge. A banner on which were inscribed the names of General Taylor's victories, was borne with HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 479 the procession. A hearse, up0n which rested a plumed chapeau and sheathed sword, was drawn by white horses and followed by a riderless battle steed. Henry Clay, the idol of the west, died on June 29, 1852. Word reached Cleveland in the forenoon by "magnetic telegraph" and the "Herald" announced the solemn news with heavy black borders. The court of Common Pleas promptly adjourned, after recording a journal entry that set forth the death of Henry Clay, "the honored and venerated statesman * * the court being deeply impressed with the nation's loss," ordered an adjournment. In the afternoon of the 29th, a public meeting was held in the courthouse, presided over by Mayor Brownell. He made formal announcement : "I am charged with the painful duty of announcing to you the death of our great statesman, Henry Clay, of whom it may truly be said that no man has filled a larger space in the American mind for the last half century." A committee was appointed to draft resolutions and to report in the evening at a meeting in the Melodeon. The evening meeting was addressed by Bushnell White and the resolutions were read by Sherlock J. Andrews. The remains of Henry Clay were borne from Washington to his Lexington, Kentucky, home, through the principal cities of the land. Everywhere they were accorded the deepest veneration. The silent throngs gathering around the funeral train were in solemn contrast to the enthusiastic multitudes that had everywhere greeted the orator, while he was yet the, brilliant spokesman of peace and compromise. Word reached Cleveland that the remains would be brought here from Buffalo on the steamer "Buckeye State." The city council made careful preparations and appointed a committee with Governor Wood as chairman, to receive the funeral committees. Every store and shop in the city was dosed and the buildings on the principal streets were draped in black. The flags in the harbor and the city were draped at half mast and when the three guns on the Public Square announced the arrival of the steamer, all the bells were tolled. Then the minute guns fired seventy-five rounds, numbering the years of the distinguished dead. Nearly the whole populace gathered at the dock, where the steamer arrived at noon. The boat was appropriately draped in mourning and in her bows she carried a flag with the name of "Henry Clay" in black letters. On board the boat was the committee of senators and other officials from Washington. Committees of distinguished citizens from Columbus, Cincinnati and Kentucky, met here to receive the Washington delegation. The remains were carried from the boat to a funeral car and were drawn to the depot between a double line of citizens. At the depot, Governor Wood delivered them to the care of the Columbus committee. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon, the train left for the south. The death of Daniel Webster, who with Clay occupied the public stage for so many years, occurred October 24, 1852. The papers announced the news with the customary black lines and the Bar Association met and formal resolutions were passed. LINCOLN'S ASSASSINATION AND FUNERAL. On Friday, April 14, 1865, about 11 o'clock at night, a rumor reached Cleveland that President Lincoln had been shot while attending the theater in Washington. 480 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND No one believed it, but the rumor persisted and was finally confirmed. On Saturday morning the papers had the details. A great gloom spread over the community. All business places were closed, flags were placed at half mast, emblems of mourning appeared everywhere, the workmen in the Cleveland & Pittsburg railroad shops stopped work and marched in a body to other shops in the neighborhood, and all assembled in Clinton Park to pay their sincere tribute to their dead president. The mayor issued the following proclamation : "An overpowering calamity having befallen the nation in the assassination of its President and Secretary of State, it is hereby requested that all places of business be immediately closed for the day ; that appropriate symbols of mourning be displayed from all the buildings and that all citizens meet in the Public Square this afternoon at 3 o'clock to express in some proper public way their affliction in the loss of the head of the nation and its premier, Secretary Seward." The throng that met in the Square in obedience to this proclamation was addressed by Governor Tod, Governor Brough and Rufus P. Spalding. The Sunday following, all the churches held special services and on Tuesday the mayor issued the following proclamation : "A nation mourns the loss of one of its greatest and best chiefs and tomorrow the 19th inst., his mortal remains will pass from human sight. It becomes us all, then, to express solemnly and impressively our great sorrow. To this end attention is called to the following order of the Acting Secretary of State : Washington, April 16th. The Acting Secretary of State has issued the following order to the people of the United States: The undersigned is directed to announce that the funeral ceremonies of the lamented chief magistrate will take place at the Executive Mansion in this city, at 12 o'clock m. on Wednesday, the 19th inst. The various religious denominations throughout the country are invited to meet in their respective places of worship at that hour for the purpose of solemnizing the occasion with appropriate ceremonies. (Signed) W. HUNTER, Acting Secretary of State.' "Also the following resolution adopted by our citizens at their meeting on Saturday. 'Resolved, That it be recommended to the citizens of Cleveland, on the day that shall be selected for the funeral obsequies of President Lincoln, to close their places of business and drape them and their dwellings in suitable emblems of mourning.' "My earnest wish and request is that the suggestions in both be adopted, that religious services be held in the various houses 0f worship and that the buildings in the city, both public and private, bear the symbols of mourning. It is also requested that the public schools, all places of business, of labor and of public resort be closed. It is expected that no saloons will be opened and that perfect order and quiet will reign throughout the city the entire day." GEORGE B. SENTER, Mayor Mayor's Office, City of Cleveland, April 18th" HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 481 The day of the funeral was thus solemnized. Over the Sabbath quiet hovered the deep sense of personal loss that oppressed the heart of every loyal citizen. When it was learned that the body of President Lincoln would pass through Cleveland on April 28th on its last journey to Springfield, Amos Townsend introduced appropriate resolutions in the city council, providing a general committee of arrangements with the mayor as chairman. The committee divided itself into sub-committees and arranged all details. By proclamation of the mayor the day was made a holiday, all places of business were closed and the sale of liquor prohibited. A salute of artillery announced the dawn of the 28th. By 6 o'clock the streets were crowded, thousands coming from out of town. The people wore black badges, the buildings were draped in black and flags were placed at half mast. It was a solemn throng. At 7 o'clock the funeral train of nine cars entered the Union station, and a Cleveland & Pittsburg engine took the train to the Euclid avenue station. The car containing the coffin spanned the avenue where the military and civic committees and Governor Brough were in waiting. The pallbearers were ex-Governor David Tod, Rufus P. Spalding, J. C. Diven, General R. P. Buckland, H. B. Payne, Judge H. V. Willson, John A. Foot, W. B. Castle, A. Everett, Amasa Stone, J.r., Stillman Witt and L. A. Pierce. The band from Camp Chase played a solemn dirge, as the plain coffin with a single wreath and cross of white flowers was carried on the shoulders of the military Guard of Honor to the hearse. Slowly the funeral pageant moved down the avenue. There were six thousand men in line representing the state, the city and the nation. It was a silent, solemn pageant, accompanied only by the doleful music of tolling bells and the wail of the funeral dirge. The stately trees of the avenue were just bursting into bud, symbolic of the new nation that the Martyr-President had wrought, and the low hanging clouds lent their gloom to the sadness of the multitudes that thronged the street and all places of vantage. In the Public Square a pavilion was prepared to receive the coffin. The Square was enclosed by a fence and the Twenty-Ninth Ohio National Guard guarded the entrances. The canopy stood in the middle of the Square just east of Perry's monument. It was draped in the national colors and each entrance was guarded by a large golden eagle and the national shield draped with six silken regimental flags. On the roof a streamer bore these words from Horace-"Extinctus Amabitur Idem" Though dead, he will be loved the same. The interior of the canopy was lined with black and white crepe, festooned with evergreen and flowers. Upon the low catafalque the coffin was placed. It was completely covered with white flowers, the tributes of the ladies of the city. The Right Rev. Bishop Charles P. Mcllvaine of the Diocese of Ohio read the burial services of the Episcopal church and offered prayer. Thereafter the gateway was opened and the procession that had marched with the funeral car passed through the pavilion. The soldiers were next admitted and finally the public. The papers relate many pathetic scenes of the grief of soldiers, to whom the President had shown characteristic acts of kindness. At sunset a salute was fired and visiting bands played solemn airs from the balconies of the hotels. At TO o'clock p. m. the gates to the pavilion were closed. One hundred thousand people had passed through them and yet other thousands were in line. An hour later the march down Superior 482 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND street to the union station was begun. It was a weird midnight spectacle. The draped hearse drawn by six white horses, the faithful Guard from Washington, the companies of soldiery, the escort of citizens, the silent multitudes, all enshrouded in the mysterious half-light of hundreds of torches borne by torch bearers chosen from every ward in the city. The train left for Columbus at midnight. ASSASSINATION OF PRESIDENT GARFIELD. In the summer of 1881 these scenes were reenacted. On the 2d of July, word was received that President Garfield had been assassinated. The news caused consternation everywhere. The streets were thronged with people. On Sunday the 3d, the churches held special services and on the 4th a public mass meeting was held in the Square. A speakers' stand was erected in the northeast section, decorated with flowers. On the trees and on the wooden pallisades around the postoffice building were large mottoes printed on cardboard, containing quotations from Garfield's speeches. The meeting was addressed by R. C. Parsons, General Ed. S. Meyer, Bishop R. Gilmour, Rev. Charles Terry Collins, George H. Ely, Colonel J. H. Devereux and C. B. Lockwood. Nowhere in the land was there more suspense than in Cleveland during that long summer of suffering. As the end drew near, the bulletins at the newspaper offices attracted large crowds. And when finally on the night of September 19th the end came, the news spread over the city and the streets were filled with a silent throng until after midnight. Cannon were fired once an hour and the bells of the churches tolled until morning. The schools closed, courts adjourned, the city council met in special session to adopt suitable resolutions, business houses closed at noon, meetings were held in churches and fraternity halls, spontaneously emblems of mourning appeared everywhere. The entire city was a house of mourning, for Garfield was Cleveland's President. On the afternoon of the loth a public meeting was held in the old Tabernacle on the corner of Ontario and St. Clair streets, where public committees were appointed to arrange the details for the public funeral. Meanwhile, the trustees of Lake View cemetery offered Mrs. Garfield any site in the cemetery she might select. The sombre veiling of the city continued in preparation for the funeral. On Saturday, the 24th of September, the funeral train arrived at the Euclid avenue station. There the Guard of soldiers and citizens removed the remains and bore them to the Public Square, where a stately catafalque had been erected to receive them. The distinguished men of the land were the city's guests over Sunday, ex-President Grant and ex-President Hayes, General William T. Sherman, General Sheridan, General Hancock, Chief Justice Waite and Associate Justices Mathew, Strong and Harlan, the cabinet, many senators and representatives. All day on Sunday, the 25th, the crowds passed through the pavilion. On Monday public services were held on the Square. The funeral address was delivered by Rev. Isaac Errett, a friend of Garfield. After the services the funeral pageantry marched slowly up the Avenue to Lake View, where the remains were placed in a private vault, awaiting the stately mausoleum that was later erected to receive them. HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 483 ASSASSINATION OF PRESIDENT MCKINLEY. The assassination of President McKinley on the afternoon of September 6, 1901, while he was a guest at the Pan-American Exposition at Buffalo, by a Cleveland anarchist, Leon Czolgocz, caused horror and rage in Cleveland, where the President was well known and had multitudes of personal friends. The crowds that gathered in front of the bulletins commingled freely threats of revenge against the brutal slayer with their expressions of sincere sympathy for the nation, and the family of the President. The National Encampment of the G. A. R. was being held in the city at this time and the presence of thousands of old soldiers, comrades of the President, made more vivid the realism of his martyrdom. News was anxiously received from the sick room and when physicians held out strong hope for his recovery, a meeting of public thanksgiving was held in Central Armory on September 12th. But the mandates of the physicians and the prayers of the people seemed futile. The President died at 2:5 a. m., September 14, 1901. His remains were taken to Washington and thence to Canton, where on September 18th funeral services were held. Cleveland was represented by a large committee Senator Hanna died in Washington on February 15, 1904. After impressive ceremonies in the Senate Chamber, attended by the great of our nation and the ambassadors of every country, the remains of the Senator were brought to Cleveland. They were received at the depot by a military and civic guard and conveyed to the hall of the Chamber of Commerce, where they lay in state eight hours, during which time 35,000 people passed the bier. The funeral was held on the 19th in St. Paul's church. By proclamation of the mayor, all business of the city closed from 12 to 2 p. m. A distinguished group of men attended the funeral at St. Paul's, among them President Roosevelt, Secretary of War Taft, Secretary of Agriculture Wilson, Secretary of Commerce and Labor Cortelyou, a committee fom the senate headed by Senator Foraker and a delegation from the house of representatives headed by General Grosvenor, representatives of the National Civic Federation, the Red Cross and other great national bodies, of which Senator Hanna was an active member, and as a token of deep personal esteem and symbolic of the Senator's place in our national business life, J. Pierpont Morgan and a group of the nation's master financiers. In July, 1905, Cleveland again was the scene of a funeral of national and international significance. John Hay died July 1, 1905, at Newbury, New Hampshire. His body was brought to Cleveland July 3d and lay in state in the Chamber of Commerce hall until July 5th. There was no public demonstration. Simple funeral services were held at the Euclid avenue home of the great diplomat, attended by President Roosevelt, Vice President Fairbanks, members of the cabinet and diplomatic corps and distinguished men from every calling. NOTABLE PUBLIC FESTIVALS. 1871. April 8 to 10. The Peace Jubilee of the German citizens, commemorating the peace of the Franco-Prussian war, opened on the evening of April 8th 484 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND with a concert in Case Hall. On April loth a gorgeous pageant over two miles Jong, representing historical events, paraded through the lavishly decorated streets. On the Square a chaste triumphal arch was erected. 1876. January 1, 1876, ushered in the National Centennial Jubilee. It was begun by a great carnival and celebration on New Year's night. At a quarter of twelve the factory whistles began to blow ; at two minutes of twelve a vast cauldron of oil in the Square was lighted ; promptly at midnight the chimes in old Trinity on Superior street began to play, followed by all the church and fire bells in the city. One hundred rounds were fired from cannon and for an hour a pandemonium of all kinds of noises reigned. The city was illumined and the new city hall and other public buildings properly decorated. 1890. Dedication of Garfield Monument. The Garfield Monument was dedicated on Decoration Day in the presence of a distinguished company, including President Harrison, Vice President Morton, the cabinet, ex-President Hayes, Governor Campbell and his staff, ex-Governor J. D. Cox, General William Tecumseh Sherman, Major McKinley and many noted senators, representatives, private citizens and diplomats. The city was beautifully decorated with flags and bunting, and one of the largest parades ever seen in the city under command of General James Barnett marched from the Square down the stately avenue to Lake View. It was estimated that one hundred thousand visitors were here from out of town. The oration was delivered by Governor J. D. Cox. President Harrison was the guest of Dan P. Eells at his Euclid avenue home. On the evening of the 29th a reception was tendered the President at the Stillman. 1892. Columbus Celebration. On October 18, 1892, all the schools held. appropriate exercises and numerous public meetings were held. On April 27th, the cherished Liberty Bell passed through the city on its way to the World's Fair in Chicago. A committee of Clevelanders went to Pittsburg to meet the Bell and the Pennsylvania delegation that accompanied it, and a special committee met the train at Newburg. The car with the Bell was placed on a sidetrack near Lake View Park, where it was viewed by all the school children. 1896. The Centennary of the founding of the city was celebrated July 19th to September Toth by a series of elaborate pageants, conferences, meetings and banquets. (1) 1900. The week of October 8, 1900, was celebrated with carnivals, illuminations, parades and profuse decorations as "Home Week." 1901. The new century was ushered in by a bedlam of noises from whistles, cannon, bells and all other conceivable forms of noise making. The streets were crowded and the buildings downtown illuminated. Many churches held special services and the Chamber of Commerce gave an elaborate banquet. NOTABLE PUBLIC CALAMITIES AND DISASTERS. On October 8, 1871, the news reached Cleveland that Chicago was burning. Mayor Pelton at once telegraphed the mayor of Chicago, asking what was most needed. And at a public meeting on the 9th a committee of ten, headed by James Barnett, was appointed to receive contributions at the Union depot. The work of gathering contributions was at once systematized and ward committees were 1 - "See Official Reports" for full account. HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 485 appointed. Within two days thirteen carloads of clothing and provisions were forwarded to the stricken city, followed by other contributions, including many thousands of dollars in cash. On December 29, 1876, the news of the Ashtabula bridge disaster, one of the most terrible railroad catastrophes on record, brought consternation to Cleveland. While the wreck did not occur in Cleveland, this city felt the full horror of the calamity, for that portion of the Lake Shore railway was a Cleveland enterprise. The night of December 29th a hard snow storm was raging, and two engines were required to pull the heavy passenger train, consisting of two express cars, two baggage cars, two day passenger coaches, a smoking car, a dining car and three sleepers. The train was filled with a Christmas holiday crowd. Just as it was crossing the bridge over the Ashtabula river, the arch gave way and the train was dashed into the ravine. Over a hundred passengers were killed instantly and scores were injured. The wreck was soon a mass of fire and it was never known how many met their death. (2) On May 31, 1889, occurred the Johnstown flood. At a meeting called by Mayor Gardner, a general committee was appointed with General James Barnett as chairman and Horace Andrews as secretary. Later a committee on finance, Samuel Andrews, chairman, and a committee on supplies, W. J. Akers, chairman, were appointed. At noon June 3d, a carload of clothing and provisions were sent to the stricken city, followed by many more carloads on succeeding days. When forty-four thousand, four hundred and twenty-two dollars and thirty-seven cents were raised, collections were stopped. June 21, 1905, the Lake Shore Limited train was wrecked at Mentor and nineteen dead and injured paid the toll of speed. Among the dead were a number of Cleveland's leading business men. The San Francisco earthquake, April 19, 1906, again called upon the generosity of the citizens. The Chamber of Commerce undertook the collection of funds and within three days thirty-four thousand dollars was raised. This was later increased to nearly forty-nine thousand dollars. Collinnwood School Disaster. On March 4, 1908, occurred one of the most appalling disasters that ever shocked the American public. The Lake View school in Collinnwood took fire, and before the pupils were aware, the building was filled with smoke. In their frantic efforts to reach the door the little ones clogged the exit, and the flames wrought horrible havoc with them. One hundred and sixty- two pupils and two teachers lost their lives in the awful holocaust. 2 - See for details "The Ashtabula Disaster," Rev. Stephen D. Peet. DIVISION VIII. LITERARY. CHAPTER LIII. EARLY LITERARY LIFE IN CLEVELAND. The New England training of the first settlers .brought an intellectual conservatism and desire for solid learning to the forests of the Reserve. They had hardly cleared the first fields before they petitioned the territorial assembly in 1801 for a charter for a college to be located on the Reserve. This being denied them, they obtained in 1803, permission to establish an academy at Burton. Western Reserve College was founded at Hudson in 1826, and Oberlin College in 1833. The earnest participation of the pioneers in public discussion and their eagerness for books and papers in the midst of severe privations, marks their character. There was a book shop in Cleveland when there were but a few hundred inhabitants; A library was established in the town when there were scarce a half dozen west of the mountains, and the works of standard authors were sold in the substantial bindings that characterized a day of substantial things. In the homes of Cleveland when pianos were unknown and carpets were almost a luxury, books were necessities. After visiting the congested book stores and overflowing news stands of today, one wishes himself back in the '3os and '40s lingering over the foreign Reviews or "Graham's Magazine," or even "Godey's Lady's Book," with its stilted essays, fine steel engravings and messotints by Sartain and other masters of the engraver's art ; or wishes his news dealt out in simple, guileless paragraphs in the two sheets of the "Herald ;" or his budget of political opinions ripened by the "New York Tribune." In 1837 Fosters of New York announced in the Cleveland papers that the foreign quarterlies could be procured at club rates. The "London Quarterly," the "Edinburgh Review," the "Foreign Review," and the "London and Westminster Review," could be had for eight dollars the year, any three of them for seven dollars, any two of them for five dollars, any one for three dollars. The new "Metropolitan Magazine and Review," was announced, edited by the author of "Peter Simple" and "Jacob Faithful." This new magazine cost four dollars a year and "Blackwood's Magazine," five dollars. The two were offered for eight dollars. It would be interesting to know how many of the villagers read these substantial journals and availed themselves of these club rates. The "New York Mirror" appeared in 1838, one of the first illustrated weeklies "a repository of polite literature and the arts, embellished guar- 490 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND terly with a splendid copper plate engraving and weekly with a popular piece of music, arranged with an accompaniment for the piano," at four dollars the year. "Harper's New Monthly Magazine" first appeared in 1850. It was well advertised in the local papers and was eagerly awaited by the readers. "Continuous Tales" by Dickens, Bulwer, Lever and Warren were held out as inducements to a waiting public, and the prints say that twenty thousand copies of the first number were sold in the United States. It was followed by "Knickerbocker's Magazine," a more popular form of reading, with its "editor's table" and good stories. And soon after appeared the "Atlantic Monthly," its contributors forming the honor roll of American literature. Then came the "North American Review" and the "Century." After the war the flood gates opened ; cheap printing presses, cheap methods of making illustrations, made the way easy for cheap magazines and books. It is a pleasure to turn over the pages of the old newspaper files and read the announcements of the book stores. Their advertisements and book notices indicate the substantial taste of the people for foreign books and reveal the unfolding of American letters. Washington Irving, the gentle pioneer of our national literature, was popular here. His "Knickerbockers' History of New York," followed by his charming "Tales of a Traveler" and "Sketch Book" and in 1850 his "Mahomet and His Successors," found a ready sale. Grace Greenw00d was a favorite in Cleveland. In 1851 her "History of My Pets" at once became the popular book. It is recorded that Frances Metta Fuller wrote a volume 0f poems and that in 1851 she came to Cleveland to sell her book. "Frances will call upon some of our citizens tomorrow" says the "Herald," "in the hope that they will only approve and purchase." History is cruel in its silence of her reception and salesmanship. In 1853 first appeared "Dream Life," by Ik Marvel and the sentimental old and young eagerly joined him in his sweet reveries. Emerson's Essays, Bayard Taylor's Travels, the Poems of Longfellow, Bryant and Whittier, what a joy to pick them, fresh culled from the press, and let them unfold their beauties to the ardent mind without the chilling hyper-criticism of a dried and wrinkled pedagogue ; to have been raised with our literature, not to have been taught into it. March 27, 1852, was a memorable date in Cleveland's literary annals, for then appeared the first announcement of "Uncle Tom's Cabin" and the sensation it produced among the slavery hating Clevelanders can scarcely be imagined. We cry over its pages today, but then there were fugitives passing through the city every week on the "underground" and the daily press, the pulpit and the platform were never silent on slavery's wrongs. The first advertisement in the "Herald" reads as follows : "Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe's great American Tale, entitled Uncle Tom's Cabin, or Life Among the Lowly.' This great, work which has long been expected is now completed. By all who have read it, it is praised to be the Story of the Age. For power of description and thrilling delineation of character, it is unrivaled and will add fresh laurels to the reputation of the talented authoress. "It will be published in two volumes, 12mo., 312 pages in each volume, with six elegant designs by Billings, engraved by Baker. In three styles of bindings, HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 491 paper covers for one dollar ; cloth one dollar and fifty cents ; cloth, folio gild, two dollars, with discount to the trade. Early orders solicited. JEWETT, PROCTER & WORTHINGTON, Publishers, Cleveland, Ohio." In 1854 came Thoreau's "Walden," eagerly received by the group of naturalists and nature lovers in Cleveland. Of the foreign authors, Scott was read eagerly. In 1837 his "complete works" were on the book counters. McKenzie and Bulwer Lytton shared in the popularity. Dickens was at once a favorite. When his "Holly Tree Inn" was announced in 1855, there was a rush for it. Poets were still given a place in the heart. Cleveland reviews however, did not take kindly Macauley's scintillating and virile "History of England." They scout its details and its scant span of years. This list of new books was advertised in 1837: Scott's complete works, Bryant’s poems, McKenzie's works, Maria Edgeworth's complete works ; and in 1838, Bulwer's "Lady of Lyons," Miss Martineau's "Retrospect of Travel," Fielding's "History of Amelia." The pristine joy of being contemporary with some of the greatest of our writers was shared by the delights of hearing the most eminent. lecturers, scholars and travelers. The great lecture, like the great book, has been quite replaced or crowded out by the cheap, ubiquitous press. The lecture course in the '40s, '50s and '60 was one of the most valuable sources of literary culture and general information. Occasional lectures were given in the '40s and the Young Men's Literary Association arranged a course in Empire Hall in 1846. In 1847-8 the Association arranged a series, enlisting local talent, among them Dr. Aiken on "Music and Popular Education," John Barr on "Early History of Cleveland," Bushnell White on "Law and Lawyers," J. D. Cleveland on "Talleyrand." Annual courses were offered from that year forward. In 1852-3, for instance, the Mercantile Library Association gave a course, and such a course ! Horace Mann, John P. Hale, John G. Saxe, Neal Dow, Theodore Parker, E. P. Whipple, Ralph Waldo Emerson. Here was the acme of wisdom, of eloquence, of moral conviction, 0f poesy, glorified by the personal charm of these great minds, all for a dollar. The coming of Emerson was the most significant literary event. He was advertised to come a number of times but he often failed to appear. He probably forgot his engagement or missed his train ! On January 29, 1857, however, he did appear at the Melodeon. A large crowd greeted the Philosopher, the wings, the lobbies, the stage, the aisles were filled with curious, I fear, rather than eager auditors, and many were turned away from the door. The subject was "The Conduct of Life." It is perfectly apparent that the sage talked to the stars, and that the reporter for the "Daily Herald" was on earth. He wrote for his paper: "The lecture was attentively and quietly listened to." The subject, "was treated in the transcendental sweeping, dry and orderless manner which characterizes the emanations of his mind. Brilliant thought, caustic wit, correct ideas, some bitter expressions of contempt for the masses and words of advice originating in a disordered taste were mingled together and clothed with a concise and expressive 492 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND language." The good mansis contempt for mediocrity evidently struck home, or may be the "Herald" was not sent a complimentary ticket. In the "Plain Dealer" of January 21, 1859, is a review of Emerson's lecture, given the previous evening on his second visit to Cleveland. While the article is unsigned it bears all the internal evidence of the genius of Artemus Ward, who was then on the editorial staff of that paper. The lecture was on "The Law of Success." "He is a man of massive intellect, a great and profound thinker-but is nevertheless illy adapted to the lecture room, and we were not surprised because his lecture last night was a rather sleepy affair. For our part, not presuming to speak for others, we had quite as lief see a perpendicular coffin behind a lecture desk as Emerson. The one would amuse us as much as the other. Mr. Emerson is not the man to talk to the people of the west about the 'Law of Success,' He is a great scholar—full of book learning-but, like many other great scholars, he is impractical and visionary. Let mankind adopt his ideas (provided always that mankind can understand what his ideas are) and they would live a strange, weird life—the chaotic dream of the lunatic. "But Eugene Sue wrote of the suffering of the peasantry of France with a gold pen in white kid gloves and on gilt edged paper ; Alexandre Dumas has written very virtuously with his house full of fast women; Henry Ward Beecher, long since undertook to pluck hard earned laurels from the brow of Dan Rice, the circus clown ; ex-President John Tyler has written execrable verses ; a noisy southern politician threatens to perpetrate a love story ; and in short, great men and small ones, the world over, ever since the embarkation of Noah, have tried to do things for which they had no sort of predilection—have wandered from their `role'-and so let Emerson talk to plain and practical people of the law of success." With his lecture on "The Third Estate in Literature" on January 14, 1863, Emerson appeared in Brainard Hall to the delight of a very large audience gathered m spite of very disagreeable January weather, and in disregard of the acrid limitations of the reporters. His last appearance here was on the l0th of January, 1867, when he spoke in Brainard Hall on "The Man of the World." His lecture "was made in a style peculiar to that distinguished author and though it was a carefully prepared paper, replete with ideas, pertinent to passing events, it was nevertheless manifest that more spirit in the manner of delivery would have added to the pleasure of the occasion. The audience, like all that heretofore greeted distinguished men while speaking under the auspices of the Library Association, was composed of people from elite circles, and toward the close of the gentlemen's remarks smiled approvingly upon some well turned and quaint sayings relative to the present state of the country." (1) These excerpts reveal the newspapers more than they do the lecturer. It will of course not be possible to enumerate all the lecturers of those fortunate days. They include many of the notable literary and public men of that time and multitudes of others. P. T. Barnum lectured in National Hall, July 17, 1853, and hundreds were turned away. He was quite as attractive as his circus. Genial Bayard Taylor appeared almost every year to tell of his travels in distant lands. Charles Sumner, May 3, 1854, pleased an immense audience with his chaste delivery and magnificent style. He spoke on "France and Louis Napoleon." 1 - "Daily Herald," January II, 1867. HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 493 In the same year Wendell Phillips, with his superlative gifts aroused his hearers to a fervor. He appeared subsequent to the war, but emancipation robbed him of his greatest inspiration. Horace Greeley with his white overcoat, was always a favorite. In December, 1854, he delivered a wonderful lecture on "Education as it Should Be." The house was packed to the doors and his vehement advocacy of trade education was enthusiastically received. But the crowd evidently forgot about it, for it was over fifty years before Cleveland had the semblance of a vocational school. It took that long for the schoolmaster to overtake the master mind. In February, 1867, Greeley delivered his famous lecture on "Abraham Lincoln" in Case Hall. Dr. John G. Holland was another favorite, who came annually. He occasionally read from his works. He appeared in Case Hall in November, 1873, and lectured on "The Elements of Personal Power." This was probably his last appearance in Cleveland. Among the men in public life who appeared before Cleveland audiences were John P. Hale, presidential candidate in 1852 ; Thomas Ewing, Ohio's distinguished statesman, in 1855; Josiah Quincy and Salmon P. Chase in 1856; Quincy's lecture on "Joe Smith and the Mormons" aroused peculiar interest because Kirtland, a near neighbor of Cleveland, was the cradle of Mormonism. Sturdy Senator Benton of Missouri in May, 1857, delivered a lecture on "The Union," which created a sensation. A throng had gathered to hear the great fighter and orator, and the air was surcharged with political animosity over the Missouri compromise, and Kansas- Nebraska. This was also the year that Edward Everett charmed his audience with his stately, smooth-rolling periods. He came many times after that day. In October, 1857, "Sunset" Cox spoke in Chapin's Hall on "American Honor." Judging from contemporary reports the glow of his convictions was equal to the color of his imagery. George William Curtis appeared a number of times, always delighting with his splendid sentences. Schuyler Colfax came in 1866. Brave and gentle General O. O. Howard, who but recently passed away, the last of the Major Generals of the war, made his first appearance in Cleveland as a lecturer in 1866. In 1868 Frederick A. Douglass spoke in Chapin's Hall on "Self-Made Men." Of literary men the list is long, including the names of many notables. E. P. Whipple came frequently. Quiet and smiling Donald G. Mitchell was a favorite. Poor Theodore Tilton came in the '60s, John G. Saxe, with his wit and his poems was always welcome. Later came Wilkie Collins, who read from the "Dream Woman," January 8, 1874, in Case Hall. Will Carleton, hale and hearty, came frequently in the '7os and '8os. Mark Twain first appeared January 22, 1869, where he lectured in Case Hall on the "American Vandal Abroad." Bret Harte's lecture, "The Argonauts of 1849," delivered February 28, 1873, was long remembered for its charm. In October, 1873, Harriet Beecher Stowe read from "Uncle Tom's Cabin," and the "Minister's Wooing." Eli Perkins, the same year, spoke on "My Uncle Consider." On January 15, 1884, Matthew Arnold lectured on "Numbers" in Case Hall before a large and eager audience. He was introduced by. John Hay. February 9th, the same year, he appeared here again, speaking on "Emerson." Judge Albion Tourgee in 1884 spoke on "Cain, Herod and Company," a lecture that made your blood curdle. In later days the celebrities all stopped here. Bill Nye, James Whitcomb Riley and their friend, quaint Eugene Field, who was also the friend of all men, 494 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND appeared together, as if any one of them were not enough for one evening. Lew Wallace, Israel Zangwill and Ian McLaren, and the lecture of Sir Edwin Arnold in Music Hall in December, 1891, must not be forgotten. Grace Greenwood came in January, 1859, to the old Melodeon. Her coming created a social stir. It was a drizzling, nasty night, but the crowd filled the hall, aisles and all, and many were turned away. Her subject was cumbersome, "Men and Women Twenty Years Hence, Children Today." Genial Artemus Ward lectured before his fellow townsmen January 31, 1862, in the Melodeon. His subject was "The Children in the Wood." The price of admission was twenty-five cents, the proceeds going to the Soldiers Aid Society. The doors were opened at six and the place was soon overflowing. The lecture was a satire on shams. The defeat of Bull Run, then in everybody's mind, was due to the politician-soldiers, for just as victory was ours some one brought news of three vacancies in the New York custom h0use ; then all the soldiers rushed for New York, except one, a musician, who "stayed to spike his fife." April 2, 1863, Artemus lectured again in Brainard Hall on "Sixty Minutes in Africa." This was probably his last appearance in Cleveland, for soon afterward he started to California and later went to London where he died. Among the scientific men who lectured here during these years might be named James G. Dana, the greatest of American geologists, and John S, Newberry, the distinguished paelantologist, in 1856-7. In 1858 "the elder" Youmans, founder of the "Popular Science Monthly" and ardent defender of Darwin, Professor Liebig, the renowned German chemist in 1859 ; Alexander Agassiz, greatest of naturalists, distinguished for his learning and piety, gave two lectures on the "Glacial Period," January 20 and 21, 1864; Alexander Winchell, the geologist with the diction and imagination of a poet, lectured in the Tabernacle, February 5 and 6, 1878, on "Cosmic Dust" and "The Lifetime of a World." Of travelers, Cleveland heard Bayard Taylor often, and "Sunset" Cox. On December 7, 1874, Dr. Isaac Hayes, the arctic explorer, lectured here. Henry M. Stanley came first, February 17, 1873, to Case Hall, where he told "How I Found Dr. Livingstone." He was mtroduced by Judge Tilden. The price of tickets was modest, fifty and seventy-five cents. November 26, 1896, he appeared again in Music Hall and for a third time, the following February. November 29, 1897, the daring Nansen spoke in Music Hall. He was introduced by President Cady Staley of Case school. Of reformers and clergymen mention can be made 0f only a few. John B. Gough always drew big houses. He came yearly in the '60s and '70s. His lecture on "Orators and Eloquence" was the favorite. Francis Murphy came in the '70s, Joseph Cook appeared here annually during the days of his ascendency. His semi-scientific attempts at "harmonizing science and revelation" were very popular. In bold contrast was the quiet thoroughness of Cannon Farrar, who spoke in 1878, and David Swing, who reminded his hearers of a reanimated Emerson. But of all the annual visitors who delighted and instructed the Cleveland public, none was more welcome nor more versatile than Henry Ward Beecher. From his first coming in the '50s to his last days, he was in our city almost yearly, often two or three times a year. The records are always the same ; HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 495 "great throng," "hundreds turned away," "aisles and platform filled." October 20, 1857, for instance, he appeared at the Melodeon, drew a throng, and spoke on "The Beautiful." The following night he spoke in the same hall on "The Christian Commonwealth," the doors opened at six and in an hour the seats were all taken. During the war he was hailed with the enthusiasm that becomes the reception of a hero. There seemed no end to the variety of his subjects, and he often spoke an hour and a half or two hours, on "Manhood and Money" in 1873, "Hard Times" in 1877, the "Ministry of Wealth," the same year, "Wastes and Burdens of Society" in 1878; "The Reign of the Common People," the same year; "Amusements," 1879; "The New Profession," 1881 ; "Evolution and Revolution," 1882. Many will recall this last as one of the most effective of his lectures. In later years Colonel "Bob" Ingersoll spoke here frequently ; Thomas Nast, the greatest of our cartoonists, appeared in Case Hall, February 11, 1874, soon after his remarkable achievements in New York for the Harpers, in the Tweed Ring campaign. He came several times in later years. Charlotte Cushman came in the same year, giving an evening of delightful readings from Shakespeare in Case Hall. Charles Dickens visited Cleveland casually in April, 1842. In his "American Notes," page 73, first American edition, is a letter dated Niagara Falls, May 1, 1842, giving an account of his visit. He was going from Sandusky to Buffalo. "After calling at one or two flat places, with low dams stretching out into the lake, whereon were stumpy lighthouses, like windmills without sails, the whole looking like a Dutch vignette, we came at midnight to Cleveland, where we lay all night, and until 9 o'clock next morning. "I entertained quite a curiosity in reference to this place, from having seen at Sandusky a specimen of its literature in the shape of a newspaper, which was very strong indeed upon the subject of Lord Ashburton's recent arrival at Washington, to adjust the points in dispute between the United States government and Great Britain; informing its readers that as America had `whipped’ England in her infancy, and 'whipped' her again in her youth, so it was clearly necessary that she must 'whip' her once again in her maturity ; and pledging its credit to all true Americans, that if Mr. Webster did his duty in the approaching negotiations, and sent the English lord home again in double quick time, they should, within two years 'sing Yankee Doodle in Hyde park, and Hail Columbia in the scarlet courts of Westminster !' I found a pretty town, and had the satisfaction of beholding the outside of the office of the journal from which I quoted. I did not enjoy the delight of seeing the wit who indited the paragraphs in question, but I have no doubt he is a prodigious man in his way, and held in high repute by a select circle." The allusion to the arrival of Lord Ashburton and the jingo sentiment of the Cleveland paper is interesting. Fortunately the Webster-Ashburton treaty consummated the following August, made war impossible. The literary society and debating society formed a potent part in the literary life of the young people in the earlier days. The first of these societies to be incorporated was the Newburg Literary Society, receiving its charter from the 496 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND legislature December 14, 1827. The trustees were: Lewis Peet, Theodore Miles and Allen Gaylord. In 1821 a debating society called the "Forum" met for discussion. Their notices appeared in the newspapers and the subjects they debated confirmed Solomon, "There is nothing new under the sun." In January, 1822, for instance, they discussed "Was Washington or Bonaparte the greater Military Commander" and a week later "Ought Females of Full Age to have an Equal Share with Males in the Government of the Nation." "The Cleveland Lyceum" was incorporated February 13, 1833. The incorporaters were Sherlock J. Andrews, John W. Allen, Orville B. Skinner, James S. Clarke, Irad Kelley, John Barr, Leonard Case, Edward Baldwin, Richard Hussey, James L. Conger and Thomas M. Kelley. These are the names of some of the leading citizens of the town. In 1837 the Lyceum had one hundred and ten members. John Barr was its president ; J. A. Briggs, its treasurer ; D. W. Cross, secretary; and Charles Whittlesey, corresponding secretary. It established a lecture course, held debates and for a time maintained a reading room. The notices of some of its debates have come to us. On February 15, 1837, at an open meeting the debate was on this subject "Are Fictitious Writings Productive of More Good than Evil." The panic of the same year suggested the following "Ought the Laws Restraining Individuals and Incorporated Companies from Banking to be Repealed ?" and a third subject, debated the same year, "Does the Interest and Safety of our Government Require any Alteration in the Naturalization Laws?" The "Forest City Lyceum" was organized in the '50s. It contained in its list of members the names of many young men who later became prominent in business and professional life. They also were given to debating. At a public meeting in 1855 they discussed "Resolved that the Extension of the United States Government Over the Island of Cuba and the Province of Canada Would be Beneficial to the American Continent." (2) In the fall of 1835, the "Cleveland Reading Room Association" was formed, with about two hundred subscribers. It established a reading room and provided magazines and papers for its members. It had rooms open daily until 10 p. m.. Its first officers were John M. Sterling, president ; S. W. Crittenden, treasurer ; and George T. Kingsley, secretary. In November, 1836, the "Young Men's Literary Association" was organized with rooms in the third story of the Commercial building on Superior street. Its first officers were : Charles Whittlesey, president ; George C. Davis, secretary; S. W. Crittenden, treasurer ; W. G. Oatmen, corresponding secretary. Its purpose was to own a circulating library and eight hundred volumes were secured the first year. It was reorganized in 1846 for the purpose of uniting with the Cleveland Library Association. December 9, 1851, the "Mercantile Library Association" was organized, James A. Briggs, president ; J. R. Morton, vice president; and John G. Jennings, treasurer. It was an off-shoot of the Cleveland Library Association and had rooms in the Forest City block on Superior street. It soon had one hundred and fifty members. Early in 1841 Sanford & Company book sellers, advertised a circulating library. They say in the "Daily Herald" that on the request of many patrons, 2 - C. O. J. Hodge, "Memoriae," p. 217. HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 497 "They have opened a library of five hundred volumes and intend increasing the same to one thousand volumes." "The subscribers are assurred that such an institution has long been wanted in this place, as there is a numerous class of our citizens who are f0nd of reading, but do not feel able to purchase books outright." The terms are very interesting. "For 12 mo and all smaller, six and one-half cents per volume ; for octavo size and all larger, twelve and one-half cents per volume; subscription for one year six dollars ; for six months, three dollars and fifty cents." Certainly this was a convenient way of valuing literature, by cubic measure. This was the first commercial circulating library in Cleveland. The plan has become popular with merchants in recent years. The halls in which lectures and debates were held and where other entertainments and concerts were given, should not be forgotten. They were all small, the earliest ones only seating two hundred or three hundred people, and when packed, four hundred. They were ventilated by doors and windows, heated by stoves that often smoked, and their chairs and benches were not comfortable. For economy's sake they were located on the upper floors of mercantile blocks and reached by laborious stairs. In 1837 three halls were mentioned in the city directory : Apollo Hall, Concert Hall and Liberty Hall. Apollo Hall was on the third floor of the Merwin building on Superior street near Water. It was the most popular hall of that day. It was often used as a theater. "Eliza Logan and her father, the Davenport girls and their father, Charlie Webb, A. A. Adams, Forrest, the elder Booth, starred it right in that little old smoky hall." (3) "The first attempt at what was in those days first class opera to be rendered in this city was in Apollo Hall (3) and the enormous fees of fifty and seventy-five cents admission, absolutely startled our staid and well bred people." (4) Concert Hall was on the fourth floor, over Handerson's drug store, on Superior street. It was given over largely to musical entertainments. Liberty Hall was on the third floor of the Hancock block, Corner Superior and Seneca streets. Here the early literary and debating societies held their meetings. Among these early debaters were W. P. Southworth, C. B. Deno, Milo Hickox, A. S. Sanford, L. P. Lott, C. W. Heard, W. J. Warner. (5) A little later Kelley's Hall became the popular concert hall of the town. It was for a time called the Athenaeum. It was much larger than the earlier halls and when Jenny Lind sang there November 6, 1851, it was seated for one thousand, one hundred and twenty-five persons. In 1853 it was refurnished and reopened by the P. T. Barnum Dramatic Company, under the personal management of the great showman. It later degenerated into a cheap variety theatre. Shakespeare Hall on Superior street, where now the viaduct and Water street meet, and later Italian Hall, on Water street, where W. Edwards & Company now have their wholesale store, were used for theatrical presentations. Phoenix Hall in the early '40s was in the White Block, adjoining the American House to the west. It was used for lectures and debates. 3 - N. A. Stimson, "Annals Early Settlers Association," Vol. 3, P. 534. George F. Marshall, 4 - "Annals Early Settlers Association," Vol. 3, P. 347. 5 - "Annals Early Settlers Association," Vol. 3, P. 348. 498 - HISTORY OF CLEVELAND Empire Hall was built in 1845 by J. H. Crittendon for lectures and concerts. It was for some years the important hall of the town. It was forty-two by seventy feet m size, the ceiling sixteen and one half feet high. Its "cornice and center piece" were considered "tasty." It had seats for six hundred but seven hundred and fifty could be crowded into it. It stood at the corner of Superior and Bank streets. (6) Chapin's Hall at the corner of Euclid street and the Square was built by H. M. Chapin in 1854. It was sometimes called Concert Hall, and was for some years the most elegant hall in town. The old Academy of Music on Bank street was reopened for lectures and concerts in 1859. Horace Greeley appeared there that year and John P. Hale and Grace Greenwood, and later Artemus Ward, it afterwards fell from grace, and became a notorious concert hall. Case Hall was the most noted concert and lecture hall of its day. It was located on the third floor of the Case block, on the eastern portion of the site occupied by the new postoffice. It was one hundred and seventeen by seventy-three feet, the ceiling thirty-six feet high, and seated two thousand people. There was a comfortable stage, flanked by two "drawing rooms" and it was seated with “patent opera chairs." Garibaldi, an Italian artist, decorated its walls and ceilings. It was opened with a concert September T0, 1867, by Signora Peralta, Signor Steffani and Signor Bellini. The tickets were considered quite high, reserved seats, two &liars ; admission, one dollar and fifty cents. (7) The second concert was given by Clara Louise Kellogg before a brilliant audience. In this hall appeared most of the prominent lecturers and concert virtuosos. It later became the home of Case Library. In 1894 the larger portion of the building was converted into an office building; the lower floor became the banking rooms of the Citizens Savings and Loan Association. The Tabernacle in the '70s and '80s was used as a lecture hall. It was a barren, forbidding structure, on the corner of St. Clair and Ontario streets, where the Engineers building now stands. Music Hall succeeded the Tabernacle. The first Music Hall was built in 1885, about one hundred and sixty-five feet back from Superior street, and from Erie street. It was reached by an entrance through Doan's block on Erie street. It had several tiers of steep, uncomfortable, galleries, and seated several thousand people. It was later partially destroyed by fire and rebuilt, facing Vincent street. It was entirely destroyed by fire in 1898. Our two armories are in every way worthy successors to the uncouth and barn-like Music Hall and Tabernacle. In connection with the early literary life of the city may be remembered the "Ark," the most noted "club" in our scientific and literary annals. It was not an organization, but just a group of kindred spirits brought together by the Case brothers, William and Leonard, in the little one-story office that stood where the imposing government building now looks upon the square. When Leonard Case, Sr., abandoned this modest office in the '30s his son William, of scientific bent, built a small addition to it, where he stored his collection of birds 6 - "Herald," August 16, 1845. 7 - "Daily Herald," September 13, 1867. HISTORY OF CLEVELAND - 499 and mammals. And there gradually and naturally the bright young men of the town of similar scientific bent, met in the evening for discussion, or reading, or other diversion, and so eventually the "Ark" became populated with a group of the finest, congenial spirits, "The Arkites." They were William Case, Leonard Case, Dr. Elisha Sterling, Stoughton Bliss, Colonel E. A. Scovill, George A. Stanley, Bushnell White, Captain B. A. Stannard, Dr. A. Maynard, D. W. Cross, Henry G. Abbey, R. K. Winslow, J. J. Tracy, John Coon. These were the "Original Arkites" whose portraits are shown in the painting of the group ordered by William Case in 1858 and which now hangs in the Historical Society. The building of the postoffice compelled the "Ark" to journey across the street eastward. The building of Case Hall necessitated another movement eastward and finally the building of the City Hall caused the demolition of the little Ark. Its wood was made into chairs, tables and other fixtures for the new rooms provided in Case Library building. William Case deeded the free use of these rooms to the following gentlemen : Charles L. Rhodes, Seneca O. Griswold, David W. Cross, Herman M. Chapin, Edward A. Scovill, William Sholl, James J. Tracy, Stoughton Bliss, Levi P. Schofield, Rodney Gale, Jabez W. Fitch, Henry G. Abbey, Bushnell White, Benjamin A. Stannard, John Coon. The restless city demanded yet another sacrifice of the arkites. When the new postoffice was proposed, Case Library building was needed as part of the site. Only three members of the Ark were left, James J. Tracy, John Coon and Levi Schofield, and to these the court awarded "damages." James Tracy and John Coon have since passed away, and General Schofield remains the only survivor of the famous group. CHAPTER LIV. EARLY NEWSPAPERS, PRINTERS AND BOOKSELLERS OF CLEVELAND. By Charles Orr.   Printing presses, newspapers, publishing and bookselling are intimately associated with both the material and intellectual development of cities, and in this, Cleveland has been no exception. The early settlers of the Western Reserve were for the most part intelligent New England people and required books and writing material as a matter of course. Many old family libraries on the Reserve contain books brought by these early settlers, which were read in the light of sputtering candles in the long evening after a hard day's work in the clearing or behind the plow.          The first printing press set up in Cleveland was that upon which was printed the "Gazette and Commercial Register," the first issue of which was struck off July 31, 1818. This press was owned by one Andrew Logan, who brought it here with the type and such outfit as he had, from Beaver, Pennsylvania. The promise