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CHAPTER VI.

PARKS, SOCIETIES AND OBJECTS OF INTEREST.

PICTURESQUE SCENERY AND LOVELY PARKS-THE GARDEN OF EDEN-SECRET SOCIETIES' AND SOCIAL CLUBS-PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS-THE POST OFFICE AND ITS BUSINESS AND FIRE DEPARTMENTS---ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN-BANKS AND BANKING.

THE location of Cincinnati is one of peculiar natural beauty. The city is principally built on a plateau. through which the river passes from the southeast to the southwest. This plain is nearly twelve miles in circumference, and is bisected by the river in nearly equal parts. On the north half is Cincinnati, and on the south are Covington, Newport and Dayton, in Kentucky. This great plain is entirely surrounded by a chain of hills, rising to an altitude of three hundred feet, forming one of the most beautiful natural amphitheaters to be found anywhere on the continent, from whose hilltops may be seen the splendid panorama of the cities below, with the winding Ohio, spanned by five magnificent bridges, trains, steamers, and incessant movement along its shores. No large city of the United States presents such a strikingly picturesque variety of position and scenery. The hills which surround the extensive plain upon which the city stands present to the eye of the beholder one continued ridge, irregularly elevated and of diversified configurations. They do not exhibit an aspect of colossal grandeur, but are always beautiful and pleasing to the eve. There are many gentle and varying slopes, which are mostly

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covered with imposing and stately residences, and surrounded by lofty native trees and beautiful foliage. And when ascending these hills by the inclined planes of the street railways, the scene becomes more beautiful by degrees, rewinding one of the dissolving views of the kaleidoscope. On the east the amphitheater is approached by a narrow way on the bank of the river from the valley of the Little Miami, whilst the Mill creek valley affords an outlet to the northwest. From the Kentucky hills in the south the view of the city is particularly fine, as they afford a greater scope or range of vision to the eye. The cities of Covington and Newport, divided by the Licking river, appear as settings in the foreground of the picture, and add to the beauty of the whole. The site of the city is particularly tine, while for health and drainage a better spot could not have been selected in the lovely alley of the Ohio, on which to build a great city. W. J. Kenny, in his " Illustrated Guide to Cincinnati," gives much valuable information relating to the city, its environs, parks,. societies and objects of interest, for which we acknowledge our indebtedness for many facts used in this chapter.

CITY PARKS.

There are several very beautiful parks within the environs of Cincinnati. In name and area they may be enumerated as follows: Garfield, I acre; Hopkins, 0.90 acre; Washington, 5.60 acres; Lincoln, 10 acres; Markley Farm, 148.81 acres; Burnet Woods, 163.50 acres; Eden, 209.25 acres. Total, 539.06 acres. When the Markley Farm is deducted, which is not yet strictly park property, the acreage is reduced to 390.25. While some of these " breathing spots" are very attractive, Mayor Mosby strongly advocates the acquisition of more ground for park purposes. He claims, and rightly too, that they are the public lawns, as it were, where all the people have a right to congregate and to enjoy nature in the particular way they choose. The census of 1890 shows that the portion of Cincinnati below the hills is probably more densely populated than any city in the Union. Hence the necessity for more " breathing spots." The value of the present parks will reach four and a half millions of dollars.

Burnet Woods Park, north of the city, was purchased in 1872, and opened to the public in August, 1874. The following year Hon. William S. Groesbeck gave the munificent sum of $50,000, as the nucleus of a fund for the purpose of giving public concerts during the warm weather. Concerts are also given in other parks, and all are greatly enjoyed by the people.

Lincoln Park was formerly the Potter's field of the city, and if its lovely shades could tell its story they would reveal many a tale of crime and woe. Here is where the resurrectionists used to ply their gruesome occupation by securing specimens of castaway humanity for the medical colleges, and here they met with many a fright while despoiling the graves of the friendless. But all is changed now. Childhood gambols on the green, and mirth, frivolity and pleasure banish all thoughts of weird associations, and in time all knowledge of the former uses of the ground will be forgotten.

The most charming of all the parks is Eden. Suggestive name. It lies upon a hill, east of the city proper, between the city and East Walnut Hills, with Columbia avenue on the east, and Gilbert avenue on the west. Its lawn is beautiful; its grassy hill-slopes and valleys are penetrated in every direction by broad, smooth carriage ways. The two new city reservoirs so exactly correspond with the character of the scenery that they look almost like natural lakes. They have each a capacity of one hundred millions of gallons of water, and are valued at four and a quarter millions of dollars. In 1865 the city purchased of the Longworth estate what was known as the "Garden of Eden." It contained 156 acres, and cost the Stun of $3.000 per acre. In 1869 twelve acres more were purchased from Washington McLean for $125.000, and four and one-fourth acres of Joseph Whittaker, for

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$100,000; and nineteen acres of the estate of Nicholas Longworth, for which the city was to pay an annual ground rent of $5,500. Another small purchase from another party was also made; which brought the park up to its present area. The cost has been great, but in time the benefits will be greater. The avenues and paths pass through the grounds in the most graceful curves, and as the park lies three hundred feet above the river and the lower portion of the city, the views rise almost to the degree of sublimity. As remarked by a writer: The river, the miles of distant hills extending along the Kentucky side of the stream, the less remote hills of Ohio, rolling away in multitudinous waves of improved lands, the suburbs of the city to the north and east, and the city at the foot of the hill, teeming with the busy thousands, makes up a scene so fair that it may be said that the park hardly has its peer in natural situation."

In this magnificent park is also found the stately building of the Art Museum. This association was organized in 1880, in consequence of Charles W. West's offer to give $150,000 toward establishing an Art Museum in Cincinnati, on condition that other citizens should give as much more. Within a few weeks more than that amount was raised. The new building was dedicated May 17, 1886, and covers an area of 17,227 square feet of ground surface, with a floor space of 32,266 square feet, and wall space of 26,820 square feet. It was erected at a cost of $330,000, and composes the center and west wing of the building designed, of which the east wing remains to be constructed. A separate building has been erected to accommodate the Art Academy, which is a department of the museum, where instruction is annually given to about four hundred students in drawing, painting and decorative art. The city granted a reservation of nineteen acres of park ground to the association perpetually for the uses of the museum. Visitors can quickly reach the museum by electric cars, which run through a portion of the park.

Garfield Park, although small, is a pleasant place, and attracts many visitors because it is adorned by a bronze statue, in heroic size, of the late President Garfield. It is a notable work of art executed by Charles H. Niehaus, who is represented by important works in other cities. It stands at the intersection of Eighth and Race streets, and represents the martyred President in a graceful and natural pose, with a scroll in his hand.

SECRET SOCIETIES.

There are many secret societies in Cincinnati, and to notice all would require the space of a small volume. Of course the Masonic is the oldest. The Temple, situated at the corner of Third and Walnut streets, is an imposing building. It is of the Byzantine style of architecture, resembling some of the famous Florentine palaces which excite the admiration of all travelers. It is four stories in height. The first and second stories are occupied by banks and offices; the third and fourth stories are devoted to Masonic purposes entirely. The charter for Nova Caesarea Lodge, No. 2, the first instituted here, was obtained August 8, 1791, from the Grand Lodge of New Jersey, by Dr. Burnet, but owing to his absence, no organization was effected until December 27, 1794. At first the growth of the order was slow. In 1804 the lodge received the lot on which the Temple stands from Hon. William McMillan by will. At that time it was esteemed of little account, but. time has enhanced its value to many thousands of dollars, and to-day Nova Caesarea Harmony is accounted one of the wealthiest lodges in the world. This is the third Masonic structure that has been erected on this site; the first in 1818, the second in 1840, and the present in 1859, at a cost of $200,000. The first lodge within the limits of Ohio was instituted at Marietta, where the first settlement was founded. A monument in honor of Mr. McMillan has been erected by this lodge. He is accounted to have been the foremost benefactor of Masonry in the West.

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Lafayette Lode No. 81 was instituted May 16, 1825, in honor of Gen. Lafayette's visit to Cincinnati that year, during which he was made an honorary member and personally signed its by-laws May 19, The signature of the distinguished Frenchman is sacredly preserved as a precious souvenir of an illustrious member of the order.

The Ancient Accepted Scottish Rite was established in Cincinnati in 1853. All these bodies have ample accommodations in the Temple. The Scottish Rite is established and conducted here on a scale of grandeur and magnificence unequaled by any other place in the United States. Although the Masonic Temple is owned by one lodge, all the Masonic bodies meeting in it enjoy equal privileges, at a merely nominal rent. The Ancient Accepted Scottish Rite of Free Masonry meet in the Scottish Rite Cathedral, Broadway, between Fourth and Fifth streets.

Odd Fellows.-The first lodge of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows in the State-Ohio Lodge No. 1-was instituted in Cincinnati December 23, 1830, under a charter from the Grand Lodge of the United States. The Order spread rapidly, and in 1841 there were four lodges in the city, the Grand Lodge, incorporated by the legislature in 1839, being one of the number. The semi-centennial of the foundation of the first lodge was duly and handsomely celebrated December 23, 1880. On this occasion one of the original members was present, and this amusing incident of the first meeting to institute the lodge was related by him: " When the cards of the brothers present wore demanded at the meeting, the chairman solemnly presented his, which, upon examination, turned out to be the Declaration of Independence! This document, splendid as it is, hardly answered the purpose, and the lodge kindly waited until a trip could be made to his house by Brother Thomas and the needed card procured."

The Cincinnati Temple of Odd Fellowship, an imposing and beautiful structure, was completed in the spring of 1803. It stands on the northwest corner of Seventh and Elm streets, with a frontage of 156 feet on Elm and 124 feet on Seventh street. The ground alone cost $150,000. The corner stone was laid with great ceremony on the 12th of September, 1891, and a large number of appropriate articles were deposited therein.

Other Orders.-The Ancient Order of United Workmen has upward of thirty lodges in Cincinnati. It is a mutual benefit and life insurance association. The Workingmen's Benevolent Association, like this, includes members of all trades, and was organized in 1857.

The Ancient Order' of Good Fellows, established in Cincinnati about 1859, has over fifteen lodges, with a large membership, composed mostly of Germans.

The Sons of Temperance and the Order of Good Templars both have a number of lodges. There are a number of open temperance societies, chief among which is the Woman's Christian Temperance Union. The Templars of Honor are also represented.

Besides the foregoing there are many other Orders and Associations, which are secret, and others purely belonging to the benevolent order. The following are among the leading societies having halls, lodges or camps in Cincinnati: The Colored F. & A. M., Ancient Order of Hibernians, Sons of Veterans, Druids, G. A. R., Order of B'nai B'rith, Heptasophs, Independent Order of Red Men, American Legion of Honor, Knights of Honor, Ancient Order of Foresters, Knights of Pythias, Sons of Temperance, Royal Arcanum, Chosen Friends, Knights and Ladies of the Golden Rule, United Brothers of Friendship, Fraternal Mystic Circle, Sons of St. George, Knights of the Golden Eagle, Order of Aegis, National Provident Union, Order of Mutual Protection, National Fraternal, Order of Germania and the Loyal Legion. Besides these enumerated there are over one thousand public societies, associations, clubs, casinos and leagues established and in working order all over the city devoted to at least two hundred and fifty different objects, such as mutual aid, art, cycling,

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smoking, fishing, singing, boating, gymnastic, political, etc., and in addition there^, are also in active operation ninety trades unions and 351 building and loan associations. From this it will be seen that few cities of the size of Cincinnati have more secret societies, benevolent associations, and organizations instituted for the protection, culture and advancement of their members.

THE CLUBS.

Mr. Kenny informs us that club life in Cincinnati has been developed very largely during the past fifteen years. There are a few, however, which stand out from the general mass and ma_y be called the leading clubs of the city. Among these maybe mentioned the Allemania Club, consisting of members of the Jewish faith. It was founded in 1849, with but few members and limited accommodations. In 1803 the Melodeon building, corner of Fourth and Walnut streets, was leased and repaired, and the club occupied it until the beginning of 1879, when better and more elegant quarters were obtained in the Springer building. The ladies of the members' families are privileged visitors at all hours of the day. Weekly amateur dramatic and musical performances are given, and a grand masquerade ball once a year.

The Cuvier Club.-This club was founded in 1871 by a few gentlemen fond of field sports, for the purpose of elevating the tone of such sports and to enforce the game laws. Subsequently the original idea was abandoned, and it was resolved to enlarge their scope, so as to include game preservation. Out of this resolution sprang the " Ohio State Society for the Protection of Game and Fish." It grew slowly and had a struggle for existence. Finally the name was changed to the "Cuvier Club," and throughout 1874 there was gradual progress. On the 1st of January, 1875, the club issued invitations to the citizens at large, and received the calls of a large number. The effect of this display was most beneficial. Those who had never dreamed of the existence of the club and its collection were greatly pleased and became warmly interested. Their Florida collection was greatly enlarged by donations, new members flocked in, and the club soon became prosperous. In 1880 the large club house on Longworth street was erected and handsomely furnished. The museum is an exceedingly attractive and instructive feature, and as it is free to the public, many persons avail themselves of the opportunity to visit it. "Put," remarks Mr. Kenny, while the museum and library are both attractive and educational, and the social features of the club room are most proper and enjoyable, it is upon the fundamental principle of caring for the fish and game of the country that the club has obtained its support in the past and must continue to obtain it in the future."

The Commercial Club was organized in 1880 for the purpose of promoting the commercial prosperity of Cincinnati, by social intercourse and an exchange of views. Not more than two members of any one firm can be admitted to membership. At present the club consists of over fifty members, and its success is assured.

The Duckworth Club occupies handsome quarters in the building situated at No. 105 West Seventh street. The club is political and social, and numbers nearly one thousand members.

Lincoln Club, Garfield place, is probably the oldest political club in the State, in point of organization and continuous life. It was incorporated in 1879, and since that time it has been actively engaged in promoting the success of Republican principles. Ordinary ward politics are eschewed---it only aims at cultivating the broader and wider field of maintaining its influence as a conservator of good government, in the words of the illustrious man for whom the club was named, the immortal Lincoln: " A government of the people, by the people, and for the people." Near by also stands the bronze statue of President Garfield, who, like Lincoln, perished by the bullet of an assassin.

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The Young Men's Blaine Club is one of the most important and influential political clubs in the city. Their building, No 62 West Eighth street, is a handsome structure. The membership is large.

Other Political Clubs.-The, Samuel J. Tilden Club meets every month at 232 Walnut street; the West End Republican Club; the Jefferson Club; the Young Men's Democratic Club.

The Phoenix Club, located on Central avenue and Court street, has its rooms in its own building. It was founded on the 1st of May, 1856, by an association of thirty members, on Walnut street. In March, 1874, the club occupied its present beautiful building, which cost sixty thousand dollars. The objects of the club are social enjoyment, and literary and dramatic culture. A large hall, with a fine stage and a perfect collection of theatrical properties, is admirably adapted for music, opera and dancing. Foreign and domestic journals are taken, and during the winter entertainments are given weekly, where the wives, sisters and daughters of the members are admitted. Everything is arranged with the utmost attention to harmony, elegance and propriety.

The Queen City Club was organized and incorporated in 1874, with a capital stock of $150,000, divided into shares of $250 each. The yearly subscription is $75, payable semi-annually. Members are elected by ballot. The affairs of the club are managed by a committee of fifteen governors, from which a president, vice-president, treasurer, and secretary, are selected by the committee. The club was founded for literary purposes and mutual improvement. Card playing for money is prohibited. The club house is elegantly furnished and all its appointments are first-class. The membership is composed of the leading, most active and intelligent gentlemen of Cincinnati, drawn from the upper ranks of commercial and professional society.

The University Club, Broadway and Fourth streets, was organized November 17, 1879, and incorporated September 14, 1881, Its object is the promotion of higher education and social and friendly relations between the members. The stock of the club consists of 500 shares, valued at $25 each; it bears no interest, is not transferable, and upon death or resignation of a member the share owned by him reverts to the club, and no member can own more than one share. There is a ladies' department which may be used by members accompanying ladies, by ladies of a member's family or by any ladies and gentlemen accompanying them.

Cincinnati Gymnasium, Situated in the Grand Opera House building, stands second to no institution of its class in the country. It was organized August 1, 1853, with only fifty members, and an exercising room about 60 x 20, no larger than the present private instruction room. Its growth at first was slow; now its membership is over one thousand, and the institution occupies 12,560 square feet of floor room in one of the most substantial buildings in the city. Dues are merely nominal -just sufficient to cover the running expenses.

Other Clubs.----In addition to the foregoing there are several other Clubs, among which may be mentioned the Literary Club, organized in 1849; the Shakspere Club, organized in 1851, which gives weekly readings from that author. The Wallack and two or three others are more strictly dramatic clubs, for practice in the histrionic art. The Athletic Club is a product of the year 1879, its object being to promote manly sports and physical culture. The Musical Club, organized in 1879; the Etching Club, also of 1879; the Pottery Club, which dates from the same year, all of which have objects sufficiently defined in their titles. There are several boat clubs-as the Cincinnati, organized in 1872; the Americus, of 1874; the Dauntless, and a number of others.

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

City Hall.-The new City Hall, which was formally opened in the spring of 1893, is justly conceded to be one of the most elegant structures of the kind in the

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United States. It is situated on the square, bounded by Eighth and Ninth streets, and Central avenue and Plum street. Its dimensions are 332 by 203 feet, of a total area of 67,396 feet. The height of the building to the roof is 158 feet, and the main tower is 32 feet square and 250 feet high. In this tower is a clock with a dial ten feet in diameter, lighted at night by electricity. There are elevators communicating with the upper stories. In this magnificent building are located the Mayor's office, council chamber, office of the chief of police, and all other offices of the city government, The building is constructed of brown Iron Mountain granite and buff Ohio stone. The trimmings, windows, doors, cornices and ledges, are of red sandstone, and the vestibules are lined with Vermont marble, and the floors and roofs are tiled. The style of architecture is of the Romanesque order. The building bas been solidly and honestly constructed, and is admired by all who see it. It cost $1,610,000. The government of Cincinnati is vested in a mayor, elected for two years, with a salary of four thousand dollars, a board of thirty aldermen, one for each ward, and a board of common councilmen of two for each ward,

Police Department.-The Chief of Police, Col. Philip Deitsch [see biographical sketch], has his headquarters in the City Hall building. The force consists of one superintendent, one inspector, two surgeons, twenty-two lieutenants, thirty-two sergeants, and, including station house keepers, mounted patrolmen, patrol wagon men, court officers, etc., numbers four hundred and seventy-five men. The active force consists of four hundred and thirty-one officers and men, who patrol an area of twenty-four square miles. The arrests average about seventeen thousand annually. The first ordinance establishing a night watch in Cincinnati was passed March 29, 1803--just ninety years ago-and was suggested by a fire. It was made the duty of the president [mayor] of council to cause a poll of all citizens to be made, of twenty-one years of age, when they were to be divided into classes consisting of twelve men each, who were to serve as watchmen in rotation. Two years later it was found necessary to pass an ordinance to protect the "watch" from insult, any person so offending to be fined $25; and any person who refused to act as a commander of the watch, when so elected, was fined in a sum not to exceed $10, Men are not now so indifferent to the honors of office as to subject themselves to a fine for refusing to accept! In those days the watchman carried a rattle, which served to call for assistance and for the purpose of giving signals.

Concerning the police in 1817, a traveler wrote: " The police of the city are respectable; they have, however, no lamps or watchwords, nor do they need any. We boarded in the heart of the town, and our doors were mostly open night and day. Theft is very rare; the lowest characters seem above it." It is not so now; all they want is the opportunity to steal.

Before Cincinnati became a city, and as early as 1818, stringent laws were passed for the government of the watch. In 1826 the watch was increased to two captains and eighteen men, at an expense of three thousand dollars per annum. The captains, as a guarantee for the faithful discharge of their duties, were each compelled to give a bond in the sum of five hundred dollars, and each watchman in the sum of two hundred dollars. The marshal of the town at the same time was compelled to give a bond in the sum of ten thousand dollars. The first marshal under the city charter was Samuel R. Miller. His election occurred at the same time with that of the first mayor, Isaac G. Burnet. He served but one year, and was succeeded by William C. Anderson, and he in turn was followed by William Doty. Until 1827 the mayor and marshal were chosen annually. On that year the charter was revised, and again amended in the legislative session of 1828-29, when the election of mayor and marshal was made biennial, and the day fixed for the first Monday in April. William Doty was re-elected marshal in 1820, and during the second year of his administration art ordinance was passed authorizing the marshal to organize a night watch, to consist of not more than twenty persons, and to procure a building in the

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center of the city for a watchhouse. This was the first house of the kind in Cincinnati, and from it grew the present system of station houses.

In 1833 Jesse Justice was chosen marshal. He served but one year, and was succeeded in 1835 by James Saffin. When he came into office the salary was raised to one thousand dollars, In those days the office was a " fat" one, on account of the fees, which were numerous and liberal. It was a common thing from Saffin's time until the office was abolished by legislative enactment, to make from $15, 000 to $20,000 a year, and sometimes *25,000, in addition to his fixed salary. [See " Our Police," by Roe, pp. 23 to 34.]

Up to 1842, Cincinnati had no day police, but on May 27, of that year, council passed an ordinance creating a day watch to consist of " two suitable persons" to be elected by that body, and the compensation for each was fixed at $1.25 per diem. In 1843, under the administration of Mayor Spencer, Marshal Saffin temporarily lost his control of the city watch, the mayor having assumed it, and immediately delegated it to a captain. When Spencer was chosen mayor for the third time Saffin was succeeded by Ebenezer Hulse, who served but one term, when James L. Ruffin became marshal, and he filled the office for three successive terms.

On the 29th of March, 1850, an ordinance was passed by council increasing the number of night watchmen by providing that six should be elected from each ward of the city. On April 22, of the same year, council passed another ordinance, providing for the appointment of a chief of police and six lieutenants. This ordinance does not, seem to have been put in force, however, until 1853, when David T. Snelbaker became mayor. He appointed the first chief of police. His name was Jacob Keifer, but be only remained in office a few weeks, when he was succeeded by Thomas Looken. The latter was removed in a short time, and was succeeded by David Hoke. In 1855 William Craven was chosen city marshal, and Edward Hopkins was appointed chief of police. The police force at this time numbered 101. In 1857, Benjamin Robinson was city marshal, and James L. Ruffin chief of police under Mayor Thomas. In 1859 R. M. Bishop was chosen mayor, and John S. Gano city marshal. Mr. Gano was the last of the city marshals. Lew Wilson was Mayor Bishop's chief of police. Up to this time the force had been an undisciplined body. It was not until 18(33 that any attempt was made at discipline. Col. Harris, then mayor, and a military man himself, introduced military discipline into the force with salutary effect. In the meantime (1859) the legislature had passed an act creating a board of police commissioners, a police judge, and city auditor. This board had charge of the police and appointed a chief. The act abolished the office of city marshal, and a stormy time followed. Benjamin Robinson was appointed chief of police, but, a contention arose regarding the constitutionality of the board of commissioners, which resulted in the passage of an act, in 1860 repealing it, and the chief of police appointed by Mayor Bishop was retained.

George Hatch succeeded to the mayoralty in 1861, and he chose for his chief of police Col. J. W. Dudley. He did not fill out his term, and was succeeded by Col. Lawrence Hazen, who proved a very efficient officer and soon brought order out, of chaos. In 1863 James L. Ruffin became chief under Mayor Harris, and was succeeded in 1867 by Robert Megrue, but, proving inefficient, he was soon succeeded by the old chief, Ruffin, who continued until 1871, when David Bleeks was made chief by Mayor Davis.

An act passed by the legislature in the winter of 1872-73 created a police commission, which took the police from the control of the mayor. Under this commission the title of chief of police was abolished and that of superintendent of police established, which has been the proper designation of the Cincinnati police ever since. Jeremiah Kiersted was the first man to hold it, being appointed by the new board. His term as superintendent was interrupted for a month by his being removed from office, and Eugene Dayler appointed; but Kiersted was reinstated and finished his two years of service.

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The legislature of 1874 repealed the act establishing the police commission, and the police rule again fell under the direct supervision of the mayor. Kiersted held over until February, 1875, when Mayor Johnson appointed Thomas E. Snelbaker in his place. He was succeeded by Capt. Jacob Johnson in 1877. This year the legislature re-establisbed the board of police commissioners, and they appointed Ira Wood chief. He lived but a few months after his appointment, dying in 1878, when George Ziegler succeeded to the office. With the accession of Mayor Jacob, Enoch T. Carson became head of the police under appointment, from the board, and he filled the office for two years. Jacob Gessert came next as superintendent. He served but a few weeks, when he resigned, and soon after committed suicide. He was followed by Col. M. F. Reilly. His term of office lasted until the close of Mayor Stephens' administration and was marked by many exciting events.

The board of police commissioners of 1885 was created under the act of the legislature empowering the hoard of public works to appoint the original members. Under this new order Col. Edwin Hudson was made superintendent of police. He remained in office until the appointment of the new board, under the non-partisan act, passed in 1886, making the mayor the executive head of the police department. Mayor Smith appointed Col. Arthur G. Moore chief of police, who held the place only a short time, when he was succeeded by Col. Philip Deitsch, the present incumbent.

United States Government Building.---This great structure, the finest, most imposing and colossal of all the public buildings in the city, is a magnificent contribution to the many architectural attractions of Cincinnati, and is justly a source of pride to the inhabitants. It includes the post office, custom house and federal courts of the United States, and occupies one-half of the square bounded by Fifth, Sixth, Walnut and Main streets, with the main front facing on Fifth street. The building is 364 feet front and 164 feet deep, four stories in height above ground, exclusive of the attics and roof stories. There is an underground basement fourteen feet high and a sub-basement ten feet, furnished with light and air from an area twelve feet wide, running entirely around the building. The exterior is designed in the Renaissance style of four superimposed orders. The principal facade, 354 feet long, is divided into center and corner pavilions connected by receding bays, while the end facades have corner pavilions only, connected by receding bays. The pavilions are strongly marked by porticos, with full, detached columns, and the divisions rendered more effective by large dormers and prominent roof lines at the corners, while the center pavilion terminates in an attic of two stories and high towering roof 170 feet from the ground. The windows, liberal in size and simple in form, are kept entirely subordinate to the orders which form the decorative features of the facades. The lines are generally rigid and the openings square at, head, except, in the crowning story, where arched openings give a very pleasing termination. The orders are very originally treated in the first story. The pilasters and columns, placed on a high pedestal, are rusticated, and, by an ingenious introduction of the triglyph into the capitals, the characteristics of the Doric order are given with a decidedly new effect. This rusticated order, with its reinforcement of piers, forms an appropriate and massive substructure, on which the other and lighter orders rest. These upper orders are a modified Ionic in the second story and composite in the third and fourth, the whole at a height of ninety-five feet from the ground, surmounted by a modillion cornice of ornamental detail. The exterior walls are of granite, the basement and stylobate from the red granite quarries of Middlebrook, Mo., and the superstructure from quarries at Fox Island, Maine. The interior construction is of a strictly fire-proof character, as in other first-class government buildings, with partitions of brick, and floors of iron beams and brick arches. The building was commenced in 1874 and completed in 1885, the total cost, including the site ($800,000), being nearly five million dollars.

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Post 0ffice.-The entire first story of this magnificent building is devoted to the post office department, rooms for the postmaster, cashier, money order office, vaults, etc., being located at the ends of the building, while the central portion forms one vast business room, 132 x 225 feet, which, in addition to the usual complement of side windows, has a large portion of its ceiling of glass, making a skylight 63 x 220 feet. The post office necessarily does a large business, the receipts from the sale of stamps, rent of boxes, etc., reaching nearly a million of dollars in 1893. There are over 425 employes, nearly 200 of whom are carriers.

The increase in the volume of mail matter since the office was first established, July 4, 1793. has been more than a thousand fold. At first only nine mails were received weekly. They brought about seventy papers, equal to 350 sheets. The first postmaster was Abner Dunn, but he did not live long to enjoy the honors of office. He died July 18, 1791, and was buried on the lot where the office was kept in a log cabin. Dunn was succeeded by William Maxwell, founder of the first newspaper and publisher of the Territorial laws. His successors up to 1815 were Daniel Mayo. William Ruffin, and Rev. William Burke. During the year 1826 the receipts for postage on 3,750 letters received and delivered amounted to $8,162. Twenty-three mails per week were now despatched, ten of which were carried by stage, the remainder on horseback. The Rev. William Burke was still postmaster, assisted by Elam P. Langdon. In 1828 the receipts had run up to $12,150. Thereafter the increase for twelve years was as follows : 1829, $16,251 ; 1833, $26,118 ; 1838, $51,226.71 ; 1839, $55,017.32 ; 1340, $49,815.13. From 1833 up to 1840 sixty mails per week had been received.

The Upper Stories.-Above the first story, the building takes the form of a hollow square, with the court of the same area as the post office skylight-63 by 220 feet. A corridor fourteen feet wide faces on this court, and furnishes communication with the various rooms, all of which have an exterior frontage. These roomsabout fifty in number-give business accommodation for the Custom House, United States Courts, Internal Revenue, and other officers of the Civil government, and vary in size from the private office fourteen by twenty feet, to the magnificent court rooms, forty-one by sixty-four feet.

The Custom House, since Cincinnati was declared a port of entry, has been ail important factor in government business affairs. The amount of duties received oil imported articles is over one million of dollars annually, while the value of the articles reaches nearly two and a half millions.

Internal Revenue.-The collections from all sources for the last fiscal year amounted to about ten millions of dollars, of which the tax on spirits yielded over seven and a quarter millions. This shows the vast extent of the business of distilling whisky in and around Cincinnati, of which more in detail is given in the chapter on manufactures,

Weather Bureau. --This department is located in the fourth story of the government building. Much information of the practical workings of the bureau, and the value of its publications, may be gained by visitors interested, or curious, in weather matter:s. Weather maps are displayed to the public in various parts of the city. Visitors are invited between the hours of 9 A. M. and 5 P. M. The local forecast official in charge, or any of the observers, will take pleasure in showing and explaining the various instruments to visitors.

The Court House.-The first courts, according to Judge Burnet, " were held in a rented room in the tavern of George Avery, near the frog pond, at the corner of Main and Fifth streets." Near by was a " pillory, stocks, and a whipping post; and sometimes a gallows was added." A log building on the north side of the public square was occupied as a jail. Courts in an early day-in part at least-were held in the Gano building on Main street, between Fifth and Sixth streets. The territorial courts met in Yeatman's tavern.

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The first courthouse owned by the county was a rude stone building on the public square near the southwest corner of Fifth and Main streets. It was built in 1802, and its entire cost is said to have been but three thousand dollars. It was built of limestone after a plan furnished by Judge Turner, in the shape of a parallelogram with fortytwo feet front and fifty-five deep. The walls, including the parapet, were forty-two feet high, a wooden cupola, with four projecting faces, arched and balustraded, twenty feet high, terminated by a dome, and resting on a base twenty feet square, surrounding the whole. The total height to the top of the cupola was eighty-four feet. There were wings for public offices, two-storied and fire-proof as was supposed.

This courthouse was used as a barrack during the war of 1812-14, and through the carelessness of some soldiers who were playing cards in one of the rooms, or in the garret, it was fired and burned early in the year 1814. The commissioners then decided to accept a lot tendered by Jesse Hunt, " out of town," near the intersection of Court street with Main, on which to erect a new building. Plans and specifications were drawn, and the erection of the new building commenced, but it was not completed until 1819. The commissioners now thought that inasmuch as it was far removed from the thickly settled part of town, it was comparatively safe from fire. Improvements, however, rapidly followed, and it was not many years until the new building was fairly "in town." Bad luck seemed to follow the authorities, for on the 9th of July, 1849, this building was accidentally burned, and the county was again without a courthouse.

There was no alternative but to take steps to erect another building. Consequently, a contract for $695,233.29 was awarded in 1851. The building was regarded as a very fine one for the time, and with its columns in front made an imposing appearance. It had a front of 190 feet, with an extension of 190 feet back, and was three stories, or sixty feet, in height. This building stood until March, 1884, when it was burned during the terrible riots of that time, a description of which will be found in the chapter on "Notable Crimes and Criminals." The present courthouse stands on the site of the one destroyed by the mob, and is a substantial and solid structure. It is three stories in height, and has ample room for the various county offices and courts, with an elevator to facilitate communication with the departments in the upper stories.

The County Jail.---This necessary adjunct of the court stands in rear of the courthouse, and fronts on Sycamore street. It is constructed of limestone, cost $226, 520, and successfully resisted all attempts of the infuriated mob to destroy it in 1884.

The City Workhouse.-This great institution is located on the Colerain turnpike, one-third of a mile east of Mill creek, and within the corporate limits of the city. A line of electric cars passes within a few yards of the doors. The buildings present a very fine appearance--running due east 600 feet, then south 505 feet, then due west 600 foot to the south end of the main building, where there is a stone wall, fifteen feet in height, and enclosing the entire back part of the main structure as well as the outbuildings, the entrance to which is made through three large portals or gateways. The workhouse receives adult criminals convicted of minor offenses. It is managed by a board appointed by the mayor and council. The daily average of persons confined does not fall much below six hundred.

The City Infirmary.-Ample provision for the care of the poor and infirm is made by the municipal government. The institution for this purpose is located on the Carthage road, eight miles north of the city. The buildings are spacious and extensive, and are situated on a farm containing one hundred and sixty acres of beautifully rolling land. During the year 1891 the total number of applications granted was 7,581. The total amount of receipts from all sources was $108,832.70; disbursements, $106,374.22. The cost of maintaining the infirmary for the year

90 - HISTORY OF CINCINNATI AND HAMILTON COUNTY.

exclusive of the relief of the outdoor poor and permanent improvements, was $65,532.80, making the yearly cost of maintaining the inmates per capita $91.91, or a fraction over twenty-five cents per day.

The. House of Refuge. -This institution was opened for inmates in October, 1850. It is situated in Mill creek valley, about four miles from the post office. The grounds embrace nearly ten acres-one-half of which are enclosed by a stone wall, twenty feet in height. within which stand all the buildings. The main building is a castellated edifice of rough, blue limestone, with windows, cornices, casings and portico of white Dayton stone, presenting an imposing front of 277 feet, with a center building eighty-five by fifty-five feet, four stories in height, with towers at the extremities projecting two feet in front, and five stories high besides the basement. To the north and south of this building are two wings thirty-six by ninety-six feet each. The northern wing contains 112 sleeping rooms for boys; the south wing is occupied by girls and contains seventy-two single sleeping rooms; one room large enough to contain twelve beds; two sewing rooms, one school room, four bath rooms and hospital. A kindergarten department has recently been added. The chapel is in the rear; there are also school and recitation rooms, and rooms containing workshops, etc. The buildings will accommodate 350 inmates, and the requisite number of officers for their care. The boys are divided into four, and the girls into three, divisions or families. And each of these seven families has separate school, sleeping, (lining rooms, workshops, recreation rooms and play grounds. During 1891 there were 242 boys and 73 girls in the institution.

FIRE DEPARTMENT.

The fire department of Cincinnati now consists of twenty-eight steam engines, three chemical engines, fifteen hose wagons, thirty-four horse reels, two aerial trucks, four two-horse trucks, five one-horse trucks, one manual truck, one manual hose reel, eight one-horse wagons, four two-horse wagons, nine marshal's buggies or carts, about 64,000 feet of hose, 136 horses and thirty-one engine houses. The force consists of one marshal, four district marshals, one assistant lire marshal at large, and 302 officers and men, not including house watchmen. About 000 niles of wire connect the Central Station with the fire alarm boxes distributed throughout the city, besides forty telephones, thirty large bells and striking machines, fifty-nine gongs, ten joker registers, twenty-four alarm Registers, and 500 De Clanche batteries distributed at the various engine houses. All the appliances for the extinction of fires being of the latest and most improved kind, the department is amply equipped for service, and it must be a great and stubborn conflagration that it can not successfully resist.

In this connection it may be interesting to know something of the beginnings of the fire department. About the middle of December, 1800, a good deal of incendiarism occurred in the infant settlement, and the people were greatly alarmed. As the town at this time consisted of less than 800 inhabitants, and was far in the wilderness, nothing had been done in the way of fire protection. The recurrence of more fires a year later, however, had the effect of arousing the people, and the question of providing means to combat fire was seriously discussed. A meeting was held to consider the matter, but nothing came of it, as there were yet no village authorities to give the movement municipal authority. But in 1802, when Cincinnati received its first village charter, a meeting of citizens was held July 14, in the now courthouse, to pass upon the expenditure of forty-six dollars appropriated by the select council-of which twelve dollars were to be used for six fire ladders, and a like sum for as many fire hooks. With these public equipments the villagers had to be contented until 1808, when the council bought the first fire engine. Provious to this, however, everyone able to labor was required to be on band with his long leather fire bucket, and form in line to the river to pass buckets with water,

HISTORY OF CINCINNATI AND HAMILTON COUNTY, - 91

when a fire broke out. Every householder was required to keep one of these hung up, marked, and ready for instant use.

The Union Fire Company, comprising nearly all the men and well grown boys in the village, was organized the same year the engine was bought. Its organization proved inefficient, and a second company was formed about 1815. A second engine had been provided for, but it. had not been purchased.

In 1819, the year Cincinnati became a city, there were two engines owned by the corporation, but they were not kept in repair, and in case of fire the people had to depend on their leathern buckets. By 1825 a better state of affairs existed. The city had four engines, one hose company, one hook and ladder company, a protection company and a protection society. Thomas Tucker was chief engineer and Jeremiah Kiersted assistant. There were one hundred and fifty-five firemen and sixteen fire wreckers. The department improved gradually. In 1820 nine organized companies composed the fire department, with John L, Avery as president.

As the city grew the fire department increased in strength and efficiency. Under a charter granted in 1830, The Cincinnati Independent Fire Engine and Hose Company was organized. The fire apparatus was valued at four thousand dollars. There were an " eight inch double chamber engine of thirty-four men power, and a suction engine, with double seven-inch chambers of thirty-men power." Both engines were finished in the best style of the time. George W. Neff was president of the company, and as such he really became the founder of the fire department of Cincinnati, and deserves more than a passing notice.

George W. Neff was a native of Pennsylvania, born at Frankfort May 19, 1800. He was the youngest son of Peter and Rebecca Neff, and losing his father when only four years of age, was left under the care of a pious mother. At the village school he received the rudiments of a common English education. Afterward he was fitted for college by Rev. Dr. Finley, entered Princeton in 1816, where he graduated with distinguished honor in 1818. Soon after leaving the college he commenced the study of the law with the celebrated Horace Binney, of Philadelphia, and was admitted to practice in 1821. He regained in that city engaged at his profession for three years, when he was induced by his brothers, in 1824, to come to Cincinnati and engage in the mercantile business with them. He remained here during the balance of his life. His public spirit and benevolence, coupled with every judicious project for the improvement of the city, greatly endeared him to the people. He was the first president of the Little Miami Railroad Company; be drew up the charter of the Firemen's Insurance Company and had it passed, and was the president from the foundation until his death. For many years he was a director in the Lafayette Bank; was president of the city council for a series of years, and a trustee in Lane Seminary, and aided greatly in establishing Spring Grove Cemetery. He died August 9, 1850, and his funeral was one of the largest ever seen in Cincinnati.

The first steam fire engine was made in Cincinnati in 1852-53 by Mr. Latta, and soon revolutionized the entire fire service. It weighed twelve tons and required four horses to drag it to a fire; it was called the " Uncle John Ross." From this time on there was rapid improvement in the fire service. In 1858 there were seven steam fire engines in use, and in two years the number was increased to eleven. The self-propelling engines were introduced about this time; and in 1864 a splendid new machine of this kind, called the " John F. Torrence," was purchased for seven thousand dollars. Four years later the " A. B. Latta " was added, named after the builder of the first steam fire engine in Cincinnati.

As early as 1853 steps had been taken for the organization of a paid fire department through the efforts of Miles Greenwood, who for a long time paid the cost out of his own pocket and battled with the volunteer department. He succeeded, was reimbursed by the city, and the paid service was finally established and soon became popular with the people.

92 - HISTORY OF CINCINNATI AND HAMILTON COUNTY.

THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN.

One of the chief attractions that Cincinnati offers to visitors is the Zoological Garden, situated in the northern part of the city, between the suburbs of Clifton and Avondale. Mr. Charles F. McLean, secretary, in his little " Book About the Zoo," tells us that the one person to whom Cincinnati is indebted for its Zoological Garden, for its origin and continuance, is the late Andrew Erkenbrecher. Other public spirited citizens contributed to make it a possibility, giving both time and money; but without the constant and unremitting labors, the enthusiasm, the financial aid, and never flagging interest. of this man it probably would not have been founded. At a meeting of the Society of Acclimatization, held in June, 1873, a zoological garden for Cincinnati was first discussed. Great interest was awakened, and within a month the project had taken root. The incorporation of a stock company was arranged for, and in a short time a large amount of stock had been subscribed and a board of directors elected.

A fruitless effort was made to obtain from the city authorities the use of a portion of Burnet Woods Park for the garden. The society then purchased the present grounds, and so far as known this garden is the only institution of the kind in the world that is not located on land, the use of which was donated by tile city that tile garden benefits.

The society purchased sixty-seven acres of ground, and prepared to found the garden. The location possessed many picturesque and charming landscape beauties, and its diversity necessitated a vast amount of grading and preparation before the necessary buildings could be erected. These, when completed, were models of their kind for architectural beauty and durability, but they cost a large sum of money. Many thousands more were spent in bridging ravines, laying out avenues, and otherwise supplementing the beauties of nature. Thus, when the garden was first opened to the public on the 18th of September, 1875, the amount of money expended was beyond the most liberal of the original estimates. The vast expense, too, of collecting and keeping up a great menagerie was scarcely appreciated at that time. The receipts did not reach the expectations of the founders, and the outlook was not encouraging. The debt increased, and in a few years the garden's existence was in jeopardy. This brought about a new management. A portion of the land was sold and the debt greatly reduced. In a short time business began to increase under the new life which had been infused, and the finances were soon in better condition. Entertainments for the purpose of attracting the attention of the public were gotten up; musical night fetes were established, and artists of high standing engaged. These soon became very popular, and business steadily increased from year to year, until 1893, when the garden became practically self-supporting, and it is the only zoological garden in the world to-day without state or municipal assistance.

The grounds at present cover forty-five acres, comprising woodland, plateau and ravine. In the beauty of its landscape it is not surpassed by any other garden in this or foreign countries. All the principal buildings are of stone and iron, and cost over three hundred thousand dollars. The collection of wild animals and rare birds usually numbers about fifteen hundred. Since the exhibition has become self-sustaining the debt of $125,000 will rapidly decrease, and therefore enable the society to make more improvements and additions to the attractions. The receipts for 1892 were $54,314.22; expenditures, $46,623.59, leaving a profit of $7,690.63. The figures for 1893, at this writing (November), are not yet available. At this time the "Zoo" represents an outlay of fully three-quarters of a million of dollars, and it is a source of pride to its founders and friends that it has so soon been placed on a solid basis. The society is officered as follows: President, A. E. Burkhardt; vicepresident, George Fisher; treasurer, Albert Erkenbrecher; superintendent, S. A. Stephan, secretary and manager, Charles F. McLean; and a board of nine directors.

HISTORY OF CINCINNATI AND HAMILTON COUNTY. - 93

BANKS AND BANKING.

The banking facilities of Cincinnati are ample. At the present there are seventeen national and private banks, six in Covington and three in Newport. The combined capital of these twenty-six banks amounts to nearly thirteen millions of dollars. Of the foregoing, Cincinnati has thirteen national banks; and during the panic of 1893 they all withstood the pressure in the most satisfactory manner, owing to the care and conservatism exercised by their officers. These thirteen banks have a combined capital of $9,600,000, and a surplus of $2,745,000.

The first banking institution in Cincinnati was the "Miami Exporting Company." It was chartered at the first meeting of the General Assembly of Ohio for the term of forty years. Its primary object was to reduce the difficulty and expense of' transportation to New Orleans. Banking was at first a secondary consideration, though its charter permitted the issue of a circulating medium. In 1807, on the 1st of March, it gave over all commercial schemes and launched out into banking. Its capital stock was $150,000. After a prosperous career for several years it went into decline and failed January 10, 1842. The Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank, founded in 1812, failed the following day, and a riot ensued, causing the destruction of considerable property. In 1814 the Bank of Cincinnati opened. The second bank established by the Federal Government received its charter from Congress in April, 1816. The next year a branch was opened in Cincinnati. A stormy financial period soon followed, caused by an effort to compel the United States Bank to retire from the field, the legislature having imposed a heavy tax, which the bank refused to pay. Litigation followed, but the bank finally had to retire. It caused the ruin of many citizens.

As population increased and business developed more banks were founded. In 1851 there were six incorporated banks. When national banks were authorized, there were by the 1st of December, 1863, the First National, with a capital of one million; the Second, with one hundred thousand; the Third, with three hundred thousand, and the Fourth, with one hundred and twenty-five thousand, fully organized and ready for business. The Cincinnati Clearing House Association was organized in 1866, and is still in operation.

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.

One of the roost massive, stately and commanding buildings in the city is the Chamber of Commerce, standing on the southwest corner of Fourth and Vine streets. The location is conspicuous, and the attention of strangers is always attracted tothis imposing temple of trade, on account of its magnificent proportions, architectural beauty and great. strength and solidity. On account of its unique appearance, one is reminded of a European castle built to stand for thousands of years. Its exterior walls are constructed of undressed granite, whilst its interior arrangements are perfect in their adaptation to the purposes for which it was built. It was opened for business in January, 1889. Details regarding the membership and the vast business to which attention is given will be found in the chapter on Trade and Commerce.