250 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE plished by the Sheffield Land and Improvement Company, which has expended large sums of money in street paving and in the extension of water, sewerage and gas systems. South Lorain includes not only the great plant of the National Tube Company, with hundreds of residences occupied by its employees, but a large and handsome residence section, which is also largely occupied by the officers of the steel works and others identified with it in some leading capacity. The streets in this portion of South Lorain are from 80 to z00 feet wide, are thoroughly graded, curbed and macadamized, and present a homelike and metropolitan appearance. SOUTH LORAIN STEEL WORKS It is of interest to learn that one of the first industries in Lorain, and which may be called the father of its large steel and iron manufactures, was established by the father of William McKinley in the early thirties in a little shop near the river, at the foot of what is now Second avenue, which he opened as an iron foundry and continued it in a small way for many years. Upon its site afterward stood the plant of the Lorain Foundry Company, which turned out ponderous iron castings and had a melting capacity of over forty tons daily. OTHER LORAIN INDUSTRIES. In the employment of labor the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad is the third agency in importance established at Lorain, about 1,100 men being identified with the operation of its car shops and docks. This corporation thus locally disburses between $300,000 and $400; 000 yearly. The Automatic Shovel Company employs 400 hands, who are paid $200,000 .in wages annually. It chiefly manufactures steam shovels for ore and fuel docks, blast furnaces, steel works and placer mines, and for general contracting work. Another important plant is that of the National Stove Works; which occupies between two and three acres of ground and chiefly manufactures gas, oil and gasoline stoves, its annual output having reached a total of 75,000 pieces, valued at half a million dollars. The pay roll of its 25o employees amounts to about $250,000 annually. Among the strongest business concerns of Lorain is the Wood Lumber Company, of which H. O Wood has always been the progressive and controlling spirit. That gentleman came from Medina in the early nineties HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE- 251 and organized the company named. In 1900 he purchased all the holdings of the B. H. Wood Company, incorporating his business at $100,000, and at the present time controls the largest planing mill and lumber yard in Lorain. The above large concerns, with minor industries of the place, employ altogether about 15,000 men, this number being largely composed of foreigners, as the great bulk of the laborers connected with the American Ship Building Company and the National Tube Works are of this unskilled element. FISH INDUSTRY. The harbor of Lorain has had a reputation for many years of being not only the most secure of any of the Great Lakes, but also one of the most thoroughly improved. It was this feature of the port more than any other which determined the location of the plant of the American Ship Building Company and the Johnson Steel Company. It also decided the Cleveland, Lorain and Wheeling railroad to make Lorain its terminus, with the establishment of its immense docks for the handling of ore, coal and lumber. Further, the harbor of Lorain protected and encouraged the fishing industry, which had been early established at the mouth of the Black river. In the busy season this industry employees 200 to 300 men at Lorain, and calls into service numerous gasoline and steam tugs, as well as sailing vessels. The catch is now mostly sent to Cleveland as a distributing point and the total annual shipments will not exceed two and one-half million pounds, valued at $150,000. THE BANKS. Lorain's great business. and commerce are handled by a number of well-conducted banks. Within the past few years there have been several consolidations and absorptions, but its financial institutions have a high reputation for stability and business-like management. Its first bank, the First National, was established in 1878, and was absorbed by the Citizens’ Savings Bank Company in 1882. The Lorain Savings and Banking Company was organized in 1891 and the Penfield avenue Savings Banking Company in 1895. The strongest of the home institutions are the National Bank of Commerce, founded in 1900, and the Lorain Savings and Trust Company, established in 1905, each with a capital of $100,000. THE HARBOR AT LORAIN. The so-called harbor of Lorain embraces not only the gigantic outer breakwater which offers protection for marine craft at the river mouth, but three and one-half miles of dockage along the 'Black river. Altogether these facilities represent 37,000 lineal feet, or over seven miles of dockage. In these improvements, as well as in the maintenance of deep water at the mouth, the Federal Government has already appropriated about $800,000, to which the city itself has added nearly $600,000 ; and there is now available, both from the, national and municipal funds, fully $900,000, for harbor and river improvements. The principal improvement now in progress is the work of widening the channel between the government piers, which run out into the lake for 2,000 feet, to the lighthouse. In order to maintain an adequate channel, the city of Lorain has acquired the land necessary to secure a minimum river width of 400 feet. This step has been taken to forestall encroachments upon the river by the growing industrial plants established along its course. An important harbor improvement in the near future is the construction of a lateral breakwater 2,400 yards in length and located about one-quarter of a mile from the ends of the lake piers, thus greatly adding to the capacity and security of the outer harbor. In a word, the harbor and the railroads have been the prime forces in making Lorain what it is as a commercial and industrial city. The following is an interesting analysis of the present industrial status of Lorain, as evidenced by the wage distribution among the 15,000 252 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE employes connected with its various plants, taken from the News' Democrat booklet, to which the writer is much indebted for information used in this sketch : "A strong feature, presaging the continued growth and prosperity of Lorain, is the diversified character of its industries. When it is considered that the present actuality is the result of but seven or eight years of impetus and activity, the showing is certainly marvelous. While possessing proper local pride and confidence in the city's future, the people 'of Lorain have probably not realized fully what they already can lay proud claim to, in the resources of their splendid, rich municipality. "A common saying is that figures will not lie. They will not lie, unless made to lie. In the case of Lorain it is unnecessary to coach them. A close study, analysis and comparison of the statistical facts herein presented will only strengthen the truth which , forces its own acceptance, and at the same time discloses the moderateness of the totals quoted in every instance. The wage figures and the number employed in the principal industries give the low average annual salary of about $717, which is too conservative, if anything. The wages paid annually in the industries of Lorain undoubtedly considerably exceed $6,000,000. According to the census of 1900, the average salary paid in Lorain was $964. At this rate the wages now paid annually in Lorain would amount to $7, 823,104 instead of $5,833,609, as totaled herewith, and if the claim were made it would be as incorrect and untrue as the census figures were. According to this remarkable census, the output of manufactured products in Lorain was in value $99514,952. The latter figures were more than as much too low as the wage rate was too high, but entirely in keeping with the reckless census in other respects. The estimate would better apply to 1898. While the increase shown in three years is great, it is only in proportion with the general advancement of Lorain." Having described the development of Lorain as to its commercial and industrial advantages, it is natural that the reader should wish to know something about its history as a municipality and as a social and religious community. GENERAL GROWTH OF LORAIN. In 1874, not long after the coming of the first railroad, it was incorporated as a village under the name of Lodi, and in 1894 assumed the dignity of a city. The decade from 1880 to 1890 saw her population increase from 1,595 to 4,863, but her greatest growth occurred after the establishment of the Lorain Steel Works and the American Ship Building Company. With its great influx of employes, in 1895, the population of the place was nearly 11,000 ; in 1900, more than 16,000; 1905, 30,000, and today these figures will probably reach 40,000. LORAIN'S ELECTRIC SERVICE. Besides the steam railway service, the citizens of Lorain number among its abundant means of communication a complete system of electric transit and telephone lines. There is probably no section of the United States which is more thoroughly provided with electric roads than northern Ohio, and Lorain is one of their most important centers. The Lake Shore, of which it has one of the largest stations, runs from Toledo to Cleveland, a distance of 125 miles, constituting the longest traction line in the United States under one management ; the Cleveland, Southwestern & Columbus connecting Lorain with Oberlin, Elyria, Wellington and Grafton. A more local line is known as the Lorain Stree Railway, specially connecting Lorain and Elyria, and is chiefly patronized by the hundreds of workmen connected with the great steel plant in South Lorain. Those who have made a careful examination of the practical advantages of the electric roads in the growth of the city claim that HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 253 every electric road having twenty-five miles of track, connecting corporate territory with the surrounding country, is worth at least ten thousand inhabitants to the merchants and business men; in other words, that its operation is so great a stimulus to the community that it is equivalent to the establishment of a new factory of ten thousand men in any given locality. The building and extension of Lorain's prosperous electric lines seem to fully sustain this claim, as the, greatest growth of the city has occurred within the period marked by the establishment and expansion of its electric transportation systems. The Black River Telephone Company, whose plant was installed at Lorain in 1894, is also a home corporation, organized and developed with local capital. PROPERTY VALUATION OF LORAIN. Aside from the increase of population of a city, perhaps the most conclusive manifestation of its material progress is found in its property valuation. In 1880 the assessed valuation of the real and personal property within the corporate limits of Lorain was only $870,000. Within a decade this has increased to $2,627,000, which had nearly doubled five years later, and in 1910 had reached $10,183,000. It must be remembered that these figures are based on a forty per cent valuation. Upon this basis the entire valuation of the property of the county is placed at $33,000,000. Legislation is now pending in the State Legislature to raise the assessment to one hundred per cent, or the full valuation, and should the act go into effect it is evident the figures given above would be increased sixty per cent. Outside of its newspapers, and especially the Daily News-Democrat, there is no medium through which Lorain's advantages as a business, industrial and resident center has been so fully and faithfully exploited as through the local Chamber of Commerce. This body is composed of earnest and representative citizens and was organized as early as 1883. It all but died out, however, in 1891, its vigor and broad usefulness dating from its revival of that year. There have been established at Lorain several of its largest industrial plants through this medium and it is also the agency through which the citizens of Lorain have laid before Congress their harbor needs, and influenced legislation which has resulted in generous appropriations therefor. In August, 1907. the old Chamber of Commerce was reorganized as the Board of Trade, and of the many good works for the city which it has since inaugurated and promoted the renaming and re-numbering of the streets may be cited. THE NEWSPAPERS. The press of Lorain has its strongest representative in the Daily News-Democrat, which was established as the Lorain Daily Democrat in September, 1900, and afterward consolidated with the Lorain Daily News, since which time it has been issued under its present name. The Post, a German weekly, as well as the News-Democrat, is issued by the Democrat Publishing Company, of which Hon. F. J. King, the mayor of the city, is president, and Jacob Meyer, vice-president and general manager. The Times-Herald, which was founded in 1894, is edited and published by Harry H. Hoffman. In this connection should be mentioned the Lorain County Press Club, consisting of fifty members, which was organized in the fall of 1904. It holds quarterly meetings, at which topics of current interest are discussed, and also has the honor of entertaining distinguished visitors to Lorain. The president of the club is Percy Boynton of the Elyria Telegram; its secretary, H. H. Menes, of the News-Democrat. LORAIN'S WATER WORKS. About four miles west of Lorain is its fine water works plant, which was completed in 1907 at a cost of $550,000, and has a total pumping capacity of 10,000,000 gallons daily, 254 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE although the average consumption is a trifle under 3,500,000. Its equipment consists of one Holly pump, with a capacity of 5,000,000 gallons ; one Gordon, capacity 2,000,000 gallons, and a second Holly pump with a capacity 2,000,000,000 gallons—these being all known as "high service" pumps. Besides these there are two De La Val turbine pumps, used to force the raw water to the filters, both of which are placed in the "low service" class. Owing to the high-pressure water system noted, there is no necessity, as yet, for the existence of a paid fire department in Lorain. The volunteer companies have been organized for about twenty years and are composed of expert fire fighters. The force is divided into four companies, each of which has a separate hose house. The apparatus also consists of one steam fire engine and two chemical tanks attached to each hose wagon. With the great advantage of always having high pressure available, the proprietors of the large manufactories feel that they are amply protected. The modern water system of Lorain dates from the building of its first works in 1891 and the installation of the Jewell Filtration plant, which gives the city a copious supply of pure water. Repeated examinations made by experts demonstrate that this filtering process eliminates all the raw water of the lake and 97 per cent of its organic matter, rendering the supply as pure as any water which ordinarily may be drawn from an unpolluted stream. The process is known as the iron coagulant system, and provides for the passing of the water through an immense tank which contains a mixture of sulphur, brimstone and iron, as well as a clear solution of lime water. After this treatment, it enters an auxiliary basin, where, by an ingenious arrangement of piping, currents are created which give the water a slow rotary motion. Afterward the water is conducted to the filter proper, thereby completing the purifying process. The filters named are immense tubes seventeen feet in diameter, which contain four feet of pure sand, obtained mostly from Red Wing, Minnesota. The water is tc0llectedcted and forced through numerous strainers, passing through a system of pipes to the great city reservoir below the filters. Prior to the installation of this complete system of filtration, Lorain had suffered a number of serious typhoid fever epidemics. which seem to have been entirely warded off through her abundant supply of pure water. The Lorain Gas Company was organized Octob1 11, 1899, with a capital of $300,000, and not only manufactures gas, but owns and operates a complete electric lighting plant. It is in operation within the city limits of Lorain, has twenty miles of gas mains and thirty-five miles of electric lines. It is purely a home institution and one of the most important of those which may be called public. in its nature. EDUCATION IN LORAIN. The growth of the city may be traced in many different ways, one of these being to analyze the progress of its public schools and the growth of attendance therein. It seems almost impossible that in 1871, or less than forty years ago, there were but seventy-five pupils in the public schools of Lorain; and they were all crowded together in one room in the building now known as Fire Station No. 1, the school being presided over by but one teacher. In 1874, when the town had commenced to feel the impetus brought by railroad connections, a four-story brick schoolhouse was erected, which is now a portion of the Washington Street building, and during that year two teachers were added to the force. The City High School was established in 1875, and its first graduating class in 1879 consisted of two boys and one girl. From these modest beginnigs 'has developed the present public school system, which includes in its personnel more thamo100 teachers, with a total enrollment of nearly 4,000 pupils, dis- HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 255 tributed among six modern school buildings—Washington Street (which includes the High School), the Fairhome, Bond Street, Bank Street, Garden Avenue and Thirteenth Avenue. This property is now valued at over $700,000. The juvenile population of Lorain is also favored with educational advantages through five parochial schools, the only one under Protestant auspices being attached to the Zion Lutheran church. The four Catholic parochial schools have an enrollment of nearly 700 pupils. It took great courage to obtain an education in the early days of Lorain. Mary Ann Adams, who graduated from Oberlin college in 1839 and was afterwards assistant principal of that institution, often went back and forth from Wellington to Oberlin "when the mud and water were up to the stirrups." PUBLIC LIBRARY. The Lorain public library must also be mentioned as among its most effective educational agencies of a public nature. It was founded in 1900, in October of that year, a few volumes being collected and installed in a small rented room. In 1902 Mr. Carnegie donated $30,000 for the establishment of a public library, on condition that the citizens contributed ten per cent toward its maintenance. In October of that year Mr. Carnegie was formally notified by the Library Association that his terms had been accepted. A tax was therefore levied for library purposes, which produced about $35,000 a .year, and in 1903 the present convenient and tasteful building was erected on the northeast quarter of Streator Park, which was municipal property. The library has now over 6,500 volumes, and it is a credit to the city. AS A CATHOLIC COMMUNITY. The most prominent feature in connection with Lorain as a religious community is the overpowering strength of the Catholics. This is fully accounted for by the fact that the great majority of the workmen employed in the industries of Lorain are foreigners attached to Catholicism. It may be that it is a somewhat liberal estimate, but it is not far outside the bounds to say that the Polish Catholics of Lorain number 6,000; the Hungarians, 2,000 : the Slays, 1,000; the Italians, ST. MARY'S CHURCH, LORAIN.  1,000, and the Greeks about 500. In other words, that. nearly 14,000 of the entire 40,000 composing the population of Lorain are within the fold of the Catholic church. Prior to 1870 there were no Catholics in Black River township, and but few as late as 1873, after the entry of the first railroad to the city. It was that time that Father Mullin, who occupied the fl pastorate in Elyria, in- 256 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE stituted Catholic service in the private residence of Peter Miller on Franklin street. In the spring of 1878 St. Mary's parish was organized, and for its accommodation a small one-story building was erected upon the site of the present stately edifice. The second parish building was burned in 1895, in which year was erected the church now occupied. Not long afterward, St. Mary's school was also built. From this mother parish have sprung three other Roman Catholic churches in Lorain : St. Joseph, organized in 1897 the Polish Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, in 1900 ; and the Church of St. John the Baptist in South Lorain, whose cornerstone was laid on September 8 of the same year. The four parochial schools attached to these churches have a total enrollment of about 700 pupils, with a staff of about twenty teachers. ST. JOSEPH'S HOSPITAL. St. Joseph's Hospital, which is located near the center of the corporation of Lorain, is under the management of the Sisters of St. Francis, and is the only institution of the kind, of even a semi-public nature, in the city. The original building of the institution was used as a private sanitarium or health resort, but in 1892 Rev. Joseph L. Bihn purchased the property, which was afterward placed by the church under the management of the Sisters of St. Francis. St. Joseph's Hospital is an offshoot of the large Orphan Asylum and Home for the Aged at Tiffin, Ohio, which was also founde& by Father Bihn. In 1907 a large and imposing addition was made to the original wooden building at Lorain. The latter is completely overshadowed by the new structure, so that it has the appearance of a modest wing attached to the main edifice. The hospital has now accommodations for about eighty patients. It has a complete staff of physicians and surgeons, as well as a training school for nurses which was established in 1903. PROTESTANT CHURCHES OF LORAIN. The first of the denominations to establish itself in Lorain was the Methodist church. Members of this faith formed a congregation as early as 1840. The Second Methodist church was organized in 1883, and is known as the Kent Street Society, while South Lorain gave birth to a church of this creed in 1900. The Second Protestant denomination to enter the local religious field was the Emanuel Evangelical church, composed entirely of Germans and founded in 1851. The First Congregational church was organized in 1872 and the South Lorain church in 1899. The Church of Christ preceded the first Catholics by a few years ; St. John's Evangelical church followed them, in 1880. In 1882 the First Baptist church was organized; the Episcopalians formed their pioneer society in 1895; the Presbyterians and Christian Scientists in 1900, and at various times since, and before, the other denominations which stand for the religious faith of Lorain formed societies of more o less strength. Y. M. C. A. FOR STEEL WORKERS. Lorain is distinguished for having the first Young Men's Christian Association, with a fully equipped building, primarily for the use of steel workers. Not long after the establishment of the steel plant at South Lorain by the Johnson Company, the question of providing a clubhouse for its employes was agitated. This movement resulted in the formation of a Young Men's Christian Association in the fall of 1897, with the raising of $15,000 from leading citizens of Lorain and Elyria and the donation of two lots for a building site by the Sheffield Land Company. In the following year the large and convenient building which is now the home of the association was completed, at a cost of $20,000. At this day it is useless to describe in detail the accommodations provided for the entertainment and moral education of the steel HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 257 workers of South Lorain, since this Y. M. C. A. building is constructed and arranged along the well-known lines followed in all similar structures, embracing, as it does, reading rooms, a gymnasium, swimming pool and other familiar features. The only special point to be noted in connection with this Y. M. C. A. is its Mechanics' Institute, which offers to workmen evening instruction in all the common branches, as well as in penmanship, business courses and mechanical drawing. Tuition for these courses has been reduced to a minimum rate, about two dollars for a six months' course. Bible classes and other religious meetings are held for the men in the association building, as well as in the shops. These latter gatherings include not only weekly meetings in the Lorain foundries, but in the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad shops. An average of more than 200 men attend these meetings each week. The total membership of the association is now nearly 400, and of this number about seventy-five are boys who range in age from twelve to sixteen years. THE VILLAGE OF WELLINGTON. Historically, the village of Wellington is best known throughout the Western Reserve for the part its citizens played in the famous slave rescue case of 1858. In later years it became prominent, in a business sense, as one of the leading cheese centers of the country, its supremacy in this line being shared, for many years, only by Little Falls, New York. At the present time it is a substantial, but not a bustling, place of over 2,000 people. For the first celebration of the Fourth of July, or Independence Day, as it was then called, in Wellington, settlers were obliged to use a woman's red shawl decorated "with e stars and stripes and a neatly executed read eagle." Its oldest industry is conducted by the Wellington Machine Company. The J. H. Vol. I-17 Shelley Flouring Mill C0mpany als0 operates a good plant, and the Western Cold Storage Company is a substantial concern, which is largely devoted to the care and preservation of farm products, especially onions, which are largely raised in the surrounding country. George W. Hoffman has a factory for the manufacture of banana baskets, while a new enterprise, of which much is expected, is known as the Sterling Stamp Works, which plant is engaged in the manufacture of gas generators and other automobile parts. Wellington has a fine town hall, erected in 1885, a large schoolhouse and a number of flourishing churches, am0ng which are the Congregationalist, Methodist, Baptist, Catholic and Church of Christ. The edifice of the last named denomination has the distinction of having been dedicated by President James A. Garfield, who, up to the very last, was an earnest member of that denomination. The Masons, Odd Fellows, G. A. R., Tribe of Ben Hur and K. O. T. M. are well represented at Wellington, their importance being generally indicated by the order in which they are named. The village has one of the old and well-- known newspapers of the county, the Wellington Enterprise, established in 1866. It was founded by James Guthrie in that year, and since 1902 its editor and proprietor has been H. O. Fifield, a widely known veteran both of the Civil war and of journalism. HOME OF THE HORRS. Wellington was the home 0f Roswell P. Horr and his twin brother, Roland A. Horr, the former congressman from the Saginaw district, Michigan, and the latter, at one time, a member of the Ohio state senate. Both were men of sterling worth and ability. They closely resembled each other in a wonderful manner. When Roswell was a member of the national house of representatives his brother visited him one day after the morning session had begun. Roswell passing the doorkeeper said "Good morning"—greeting the doorkeeper 258 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE by name. In a few moments the brother appeared repeating the same words. The doorkeeper, was perplexed. A little later the brothers appeared side by side and started to enter. The doorkeeper stopped them. It was against the rules to allow any one but members on the floor. "Only one of you can go in." "Which one ?" asked 0ne of the men. "D—n if I know," replied the doorkeeper, and so both passed. Roswell Horr was a student of men and things. He said one reason why he thought women were trivial was because they never talked sense to them. He always treated women with the greatest respect, real respect, not gallantry, and said he learned much from ters, and had no use for men who were trifling and unfaithful. At one time the boarding them. He was devoted to his wife and daughhouse where he lived in Washington was a handsome congressman who annoyed his wife by flirting. At one time he was attentive to a foolish young woman. The latter occupied a place at the table with the congressman and his family, and the wife was very unhappy. This, condition finally was noticed by Mr. Horr. When he was leaving the dining room he passed the table, touched the congressman on the shoulder and when the two were in the hall said: "Now look here, Stop this thing right here. We won't stan for it. If you do not, I'll lick you. You act like a lovesick schoolboy, instead of a congressman and a father." That ended it After Mr. Horr left congress he was a special writer on the New York Tribune. He covered the political situation, particularly the tariff. TOWN OF AMHERST. The town of Amherst has 2,000 inhabitant and is known everywhere for the sandstone which bears the township name. The township received its name from Amherst, New Hampshire, the home of Jonas Stratton, an early settler. The sandstone beds lie parallel with the lake and from three to six miles south of it. THE GREAT "GRAY CANYON." Not far east of the village is a quarry long known as the Gray Canyon, which represents the largest worked. deposit of limestone in the world. Amherst is administrative headquarters of one of the most important territories controlled by the great Cleveland Stone Company. This territory includes besides th "GRAY CANYON" QUARRY, AMHERST. HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 259 Gray Canyon near Amherst two quarries at Wakeman, one at Kipton, one at Elyria, one (known as the Nickel Plate) between Oberlin and LaGrange, and two (Nos. 8 and 6) west and southwest of Amherst. The chief clerk or superintendent of these quarries is F. E. Kaser, residing at Amherst, and no citizen of the place is better known or more respected. From very early time, the country around Amherst embraced many limestone quarries, but the Cleveland Stone Company did not seriously commence operations in this territory until about 1888. Mr. Kaser estimates that the daily capacity of these quarries is seventy-five carloads of stone, and the actual output during the business season from April i to December 1, from thirty-five to forty carloads. During this period the material is quarried in blocks for building purposes. The remaining four months of the year are occupied chiefly in getting out what is known as rubble stone, or what would commonly be known as refuse. This is used chiefly in filling in lowlands, or in the construction of railroad beds and harbor works. This industry, as conducted by the Cleveland Stone Company, therefore employs a large number of workmen the entire year. The material thus quarried comes under the general name of the Amhurst building stone, and is regarded as among the best building stone known to the trade. The supply is practically inexhaustible. Estimating the thickness of the stone at an average of fifty feet—and good authority says it muust be nearer 100—the number of cubic feet in an acre would be over 2,000,000, which to quarry out would take 100 men ten years. The stone lies almost entirely above the ground and the drainage level, and the huge blocks sent to all parts of the United States and Canada, and even South America, are quarried without any of the obstructions found in other parts of the country. The close proximity of the great railroads gives another great advantage, that of easy transportation. THE FAMOUS AMHERST SANDSTONE. The texture of the stone is fine and homogeneous, usually without iron and with very few flaws or breaks. Its strength is equal to 10,000 pounds to the square inch, four times that of the best brick, and much stronger than the best marble or granite, and, as was illustrated in the great Chicago fire, it will resist the action of .fire where limestone, marble and granite are entirely destroyed. Its durability is greater than any other sedimentary rock ; being nearly pure silex, it resists the erosive action of the atmosphere to a wonderful degree, equaling the very best Scotch granite. The foregoing facts are from Williams' "County History," and Orton's "Geological Report." Besides the great stone industry controlled by the Cleveland Company; Amherst has a lumber yard, a cold storage concern employing forty men, and a manufacturing plant established in 1908, conducted by the Uthe-Schiebley Auto Company. St. Peter's Evangelical German church is the strongest in the community, which has also German Methodist, Lutheran (St. John), Catholic, Methodist, Congregational and Baptist societies. POSTMASTER GENERAL HITCHCOCK. Perhaps the only man of national fame whose life is identified with the history of Amherst is the Hon. Frank H. Hitchcock, postmaster-general of the United States, and for years one of the leading Republicans of the country. He was born in this little village October 5, 1867, his father, Rev. Henry C. Hitchcock, being a Congregational minister of long service and high standing in this part of the Reserve. The elder Mr. Hitchcock married Mary L. Harris, daughter of a judge and a widely known pioneer of the county. The widow of Judge Harris' son is still living on the old homestead near Amherst, but 260 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE the house where Frank H. Hitchcock was born was burned down about thirty-seven years ago, and its site is now occupied by a two-story .frame store. The future postmaster-general lived in Amherst until he was about twelve years of age, when he moved to Boston, where he was to receive the most liberal education. He has been a government official since 1891 and his political record includes the secretaryship of the Republican National -Committee. There are no persons in the United States who are at all conversant with the workings and development of the postoffice department who do not know and admire Frank H. Hitchcock. It was in the town of Amherst that Mrs. Nettleton, wife of General A. B. Nettleton, of Washington, D. C., was born. GRAFTON VILLAGE. Some years ago Grafton was a very important center of the stone industry, but the growth of the cement business, and the use of artificial material in the construction of bridges and buildings, so seriously interfered with the quarrying of stone that 0nly one live quarry remains at that point. This is a branch of the Cleveland Stone Company, operating under the name of the Grafton Stone Company, and its output consists chiefly of grindstones. The only 0ther considerable business concern of the place is the Grafton Lumber & Construction Company. Although the village of Grafton claims a population of some 1,500 people, it has the appearance of a much smaller place. It was incorporated in 1882, and has the distinction of being unburdened with an indebtedness of any kind. The Catholics are quite strong in this vicinity and have two churches, a Polish and an Irish Catholic. The Methodist and Congregationalists also have societies. The fraternities are fairly represented by lodges of the Knights of Pythias, I. O. O. F. and Maccabees, and. the sch0ols include a well-conducted Union institution and the Polish parochial school. CHEESE, AND A STORY. So far as is known, the first cheese made in Lorain county was made at Ridgeville by Mrs. Belinda Beebe in 1813. She pressed it with a fence rail, one end of which was stuck between the logs of the cabin, while on the other end was hung a basket filled with stones. The basket consisted of a bark hoop made from the bark of a tree. Speaking of cheese, reminds the author of five maiden ladies of Grafton—Catherine, Nancy, Mary, Elizabeth, and Sarah Stockbridge. None of them married, but they cared for a number of orphan children, who, in time, loved them dearly. There was hardly any kind of work they could not do. "They would provide •a full wardrobe for a woman from raw products of the field. They braided very fine bonnets from wild rice,. which grew plentifully around them." One of them taught school, and later they kept a dairy. They made excellent cheese. In those days no one ate green cheese, and they kept one of theirs twenty years; "and it was prime when it was cut." Apparently, work agreed with them, for two of them lived to be over seventy and three 0ver eighty. CARLISLE. It is told that when the first corn was planted in Carlisle, this county, the roots of trees were so thick that they were cut with an axe before the corn was obtained. The corn produced was very large, pumpkins were enormous ; sometimes one man could not lift them. For this reason the name of "Pumpkin Ridge" was applied. The strenuous life does not belong entirely to this day. Mrs. Ellen Mathews, of Eaton, often walked to Elyria, a distance of nine miles. She was a widow with a brood of children. One morning she carried a pail of butter to that town to exchange it for HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 261 groceries, and she "was a little hurried, as she must get back in time to get the noonday meal." However, these feats had to be "worked up to." When Mr. Gambol brought his wife to Eaton and she saw how sprightly her neighbors were, she determined to keep up with them. She, too, wanted to walk to Elyria, but she did not start early and on her return, weary and worn, she walked or fell in a muddy hole. She was rescued by a passing traveler and carried to a nearby house, where she staid three weeks before she could recover strength to go home. FAMOUS SOLDIERS. Among the famous sons of Lorain county of whom mention has not already been made were Generals Quincy A. Gillmore and Charles C. Parsons, and it happened that both achieved their greatest fame in the artillery service of the Union Army during the Civil war. Quincy Adams Gillmore was born at Black River, Lorain county, in 1825. He attended Norwalk Academy and Elyria High School. He began to study medicine and wrote for publication. There was a vacancy at West Point and the boys appointed failed to pass. Finally, in attempting to find a suitable person, Gillmore Was recommended because of his integrity and scholarship. He was not in the neighborhood at the time and so missed seeing the gentleman looking for him. Hearing of it later, he mounted his horse and rode to an adjoining town, where he overtook him just in time to secure the appointment, which was going to another. He acquitted himself with credit as a cadet, graduating in 1849 at. the head of his class, and entered the service. General Gillmore's fame as an artillery officer was established during the siege and capture of Fort Pulaski, Georgia, in 1862. At this historical siege and bombardment he planted his batteries at distances which previous to this time were thought to be suicidal, but in less than two days he reduced the fortress which had been pronounced by eminent engineers as impregnable. It has been well said that General Gillmore's cannonade and capture of Fort Pulaski revolutionized the naval gunnery of the world and extended his fame throughout Europe, as well as America. For this service he received the brevet of lieutenant-colonel, and was made brigadier-general of volunteers, April 28, 1862. His next notable success was with the noted "Swamp Angel," a gun used in the siege of Charleston. The gun was apparently planted in the edge of the sea, but really in the shallow marsh between Morris and James islands. There a firm foundation was laid, a low breastwork put up in a circle around the gun, and 100-pound shells were "dropped" into Charleston. But it was only fired thirty-six times, exploding at the last discharge. Other guns soon after did as effective work, but the "Swamp Angel" is remembered because it first proved the practicability of the method. Later, with his (Tenth) Corps, he took part in the final operations of the army of the James river. He received brevets of brigadier-general and major-general for services before Charleston, resigning his volunteer commission as major-general in December, 1865. After the war he was engaged upon important engineering works, and his name is most intimately associated with the improvements of the harbor at Charleston and Savannah, with other like works along the Atlantic coast, and, as president of the Mississippi River Commission, with the great works which have been projected for the rectification of that important waterway. His treatise on road making and paving are regarded as the highest authority. He was breveted four times for meritorious conduct, the last time as major-general United States army "for gallant and meritorious conduct in capturing Forts Wagner and Gregg and for the demolishing of Fort Sumter." After the war was over he bought back the old farm at Black 262 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE River, converted it into a vineyard and occasionally visited it. He died in Brooklyn, New York, in 1888. General Parsons was born in Elyria in 1838, graduated from West Point in 1861 and soon afterward was placed in command of a battery, which became famous both in the Union and Confederate armies. After the war he became chief of artillery in General Hancock's Indian expeditions, but later took orders in the Protestant Episcopal church. His death occurred at Memphis, September 7, 1879, and was directly traceable to overwork during the terrible yellow fever epidemic of that year, CHAPTER XXI. LAKE COUNTY. Lake county was one of the latest to assume its present form and its area is 215 square miles, which, in territory makes it the pigmy. of the Buckeye state, and Perry, one of its townships, is the smallest on the Reserve. On March 6, 1840, seven townships were taken from Geauga and one (Willoughby) from Cuyahoga county and welded together into a OLD COURT HOUSE (Remodeled for City Hall). narrow band lying along Lake Erie. The significance of the name. is obvious. The eight townships thus organized into Lake county were Madison (said to be the largest township on the lake), Perry, Leroy, Painesville, Concord, Mentor, Kirtland and Willoughby, the order of their naming being from northeast to southwest. BRISK CENTERS AND WONDERFUL HARBOR. Not only is Lake county the smallest in area within the state, but Painesville, its beautiful county seat, is the smallest municipality in Ohio. The county contains, also, five incorporated villages and three thriving centers, all but two of which are reached by electric trolley. More than this, its Fairport has been pronounced by competent judges the finest natural harbor on the south shore of Lake Erie, and that its improvements have been great - 265 - 266 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE will be evident in succeeding pages devoted to its description. Even as it is today, the great ore freighters of the Superior region head for its sheltering waters with a feeling of perfect security when everything in the outer lake is tempestuous and uncertain. NATURAL FEATURES-WEALTH-SCHOOLS. Lake county is watered by the Chagrin and Grand rivers, the former flowing north and south through Willoughby township and the latter, south and east, cutting off a large northeastern slice of territory. It is the mouth of Grand river which is the nucleus of the fine harbor of Fairport. The source of this tortuous and noble stream is only about thirty miles from its mouth, its entire course being twice that distance. In the township of Madison the bed of the river is about ninety feet above Lake Erie, while its rugged bluffs rise nearly 200 feet higher, forming a sort of Grand Canyon. The early name of the river was the Geauga, from which that county derives its name. It was used largely by the pioneers as a means of transportation, and as early as 1800 Seth Tracy ascended the stream in boats as far as Mesopotamia, Trumbull county. Lake county presents a rolling surface and a good soil—a clayey loam, interspersed with ridges of sand and gravel. It is specially adapted to fruit culture and the raising of vegetables. It stands first of the Ohio counties in the production of pears, which amounts to some 10,000 bushels annually, and is fourth in the raising, of grapes—nearly 2,000,000 pounds per annum. Lake county is a wonderful onion producer, being exceeded only by Hancock. The latest figures credit the former with a production of more than 400,000 bushels annually. Lake is also well to the front in the raising of Irish potatoes and buckwheat, and as a dairy county, especially in her output of butter and milk. Her maple products, both sugar and syrup, are also so large as to make the other counties "take notice." Altogether, she is a beautiful, rich, industrious and intelligent representative of Ohio's counties. So attractive are the physical features, with the lake and the highlands, that people of Cleveland, liking semi-country life have taken up their homes in the neighborhood of the lake. Some of these hones. are magnificent. In point of population Lake county has steadily increased. Her inhabitants numbered 13,717 in 1840; 15,576 in 1860; 16,326 in 1880 ; 18,235 in 1890, and 21,680 in 1900. Of the last named, 5,84o are of school age, there being only a difference of ten between the sexes.   The actual attendance at the sixty-four schoolhouses in Lake county is 3,656. The number of teachers employed is 167, and the total value of public school property, $271,500. PREHISTORIC FORT AND LITTLE MOUNTAIN,. Archaeologists—the late Colonel Charles. Whittlesey being one—who have examined the prehistoric earth works of the Ohio valley and the lake region, have been impressed with the comparative insignificance of the latter. They have also noted that most of the mounds, embankments and ditches scattered along the southern shores of Lake Erie and Ontario, as well as those found in New York, were evidently military fortifications, while the Fries occupied natural positions of unusual strength. More than forty years ago Colonel Whittlesey wrote of the picturesqueness of the fort near Painesville, as follows : "On the west bank of Grand river, about three miles east of Painesville, is a narrow peninsula of soapstone and flags, which has been fortified by the ancients. A tall growth of hemlock furnishes a refreshing shade to which the citizens resort for May day picnics, and Fourth of July celebrations. A small creek runs outside the point, which is about 200 feet wide by 600 in length, entering the river at the pex. The elevation is from forty to sixty feet above water level. At the extremity of HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 267 the point is a lower bench, across which is a low bank and ditch. "About 400 feet farther back from this are two parallels across the peninsula, which are eighty-six feet apart. In most places it is nine feet from the bottom of the ditches to the summit of the walls. All the ditches are on the outside and are well preserved. There are very few places where a party could climb up the soapstone cliffs, without the aid of trees or ropes. The course of this projecting point is east and west, joining the mainland on the west. In this direction there is higher land within 300 feet of the outer parallel." There is a wide belt of country through central Ohio which is nearly destitute of ancient works, seeming to indicate that the prehistoric warriors had agreed upon a neutral belt, as did their Indian successors, in many sections of the United States. It is further evident that the forts which have been found on the waters running northerly into Lake works discovered further south had obvious reference to religious ceremonies and sacrifices. It is evident, from the many strang relics and Indian burial grounds which northeastern sections of Lake county have yielded to the student and curio seekers, that these localities were favorite resorts of America's primitive man, probably containing not a few of his sacred shrines dedicated to the Great Spirit and the lesser gods. By common consent, Little mountain, situated about seven miles south of Painesville, near the Geauga county line, has been designated, both by tradition and nature, as a specially sanctified altar. Standing in the midst of a level country, this cone of sandstone, a mile through at its base, rises more than 1,000 feet, seamed with layers of white pebbles and pierced with deep fissures, or caverns. It bears every evidence of having been at some time subject to intense heat. The summit of Little mountain is a tableland of about fifty acres covered with a pine forest. To one spectator its general appearance suggested that nature "must have mixed water, clay and pebbles into a loaf of dough, house wife like, and baked it in an oven of subterranean fires, when its explosive yeast lifted it to its present height." Little mountain, however, has been far from a state of nature these many years. Hotels and cottages, filled with hundreds of summer visitors, lie in the shadow of its pines, and the white man is drawing health, enjoyment and inspiration from the same sources which supplied his dusky brother of the long ago. THE LAST OF THE INDIANS. When the whites first entered the lands of the Western Reserve they found that the region around the mouth of the Cuyahoga river was a popular gathering place of the Senecas, Ottawas, Delawares and Chippewas, and when the traders established themselves in that locality it was the custom of the Indians to resort thither in the fall, procure what articles they could (tobacco and whiskey especially), and then start for their winter's hunt along the Cuyahoga, Grand, Mahoning, Black, Tuscarawas and other rivers. In the spring they returned with their furs and game, and after trafficking away their stock, launched their bark canoes to repair to the Sandusky plains and the Miami prairies for the summer. All the Indians who formerly occupied lands in the Western Reserve relinquished their territory west of the Cuyahoga river to the general government in July, 1805, at the famous treaty concluded at Fort Industry near Sandusky, on the fourth of that month. The principal commissioners who appeared as interested parties in the conclusion of the treaty were Colonel Jewett, on the part of the general government, I. Mills, representing the Fire Lands Company, and General Henry Champion, for the Connecticut Land Company. The last named gentleman during this year also made the original survey of what 268 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE afterwards became the city of Painesville. William Dean, one of the largest purchasers of the lands thus thrown upon the market, in writing to Judge Samuel Huntington (who is often mentioned in the pages of this volume, and who was one of the founders of Painesville) has the following to say regarding the details of this treaty : "Dear Sir : On the 4th instant, we closed a treaty with the Indians for the unextinguished part of the Connecticut Reserve, and on account of the United States, for all the lands south of it, to the west line. Mr. Phelps and myself pay about $7,000 in cash, and about $12,000 in six yearly payments of $2,000 each. The government pays $13,760, that is, the annual interest, to the Wyandots, Delawares, Munsees, and to those Senecas on the land, forever. The expense of the treaty will be about $5,000, including rum, tobacco, bread, meat, presents, expenses of the seraglio, the commissioners, agents and contractors, I write in haste, being extremely sorry I have not time to send you a copy of the treaty. You will see General Champion, who will be able to give you further information. "Having some intention of making a purchase of considerable tracts of land, in different parts of the Reserve, amounting to about 30,000 acres, I beg of you to inform thewhat I should allow per acre, payments equal to cash, and address me at Easton, Pennsylvania. From thence, if I make a contract, I expect, with all speed, to send fifteen or twenty families of prancing Dutchmen." BAPTISM OF CHRISTIAN BY PAGAN. Only a few Indians remained east of the Cuyahoga river as early as 1797. Among the most famous of the chiefs and distinguished for their friendliness with the whites, were Seneca and Wanbermong. A touching story is told of the latter, which has for its leading feature the love of the old chief for a baby daughter of David Abbott, a lawyer from Massachusetts,. who had located on the east side of the Chagrin river opposite the present village of Willoughby. "In 1797," as related by Harvey Rice in his "Pioneers of the Western Reserve," "Mr. Abbott's wife presented him with a beautiful daughter—a child which the Indians greatly admired, especially the old chief Wanbermong. He was highly gratified with being allowed to take the in fant in his arms, caress it, and sometimes carry it to his wigwam, where it was equally admired by the squaws. He always returned the infant unharmed to its mother in clue time, and often decorated it in a fantastical manner with wild flowers and trinkets. The mother was a pious lady, and desired to have her darling baptized, but at that time there was no clergyman to be found within the limits of the Western Reserve. The question was, what could she do, feeling as she did that the sacred rite must be performed? The old chief Wanbermong sympathized with the mother in her dilemma, and kindly offered as high priest of his tribe, to baptized child. She consulted her husband, who advised her to accept the proposition. The old chief appeared at the hour appointed, clad in his priestly robes, dipped his fingers in water, touched the brow of the child, and then, gesticulating in a mysterious manner, lifted his eyes to heaven, and reverently announced the name in the Indian tongue which he had selected for the child, and which signified in that language 'Flower of the Forest.' This complimentary name so pleased the parents that they adopted it without hesitation. The child grew to womanhood and was in fact as beautiful as the flower from which she derived her baptismal name. She married a worthy gentleman by the name of Frank D. Parish. "They settled at Sandusky, and lived to enjoy a long and happy life. She was first white child, born of Christian parents, ever known to have been christened by a pagan priest on this continent. If the priest andparents were sincere in the administration of HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 269 this sacred rite, as they undoubtedly were, why was it not sufficient compliance with the divine command, and therefore orthodox ?" GOOD AND DIGNIFIED SENECA. Among the Indians who remained at Painesville and in that locality after the date of its first settlement prior to 181o, was the aged and friendly Seneca, who was thus named by the early settlers on account of his manifest wisdom and sagacity. His native name was Stigwanish. He is said to have possessed the dignity of a Roman senator and the honesty and philanthropy of a William Penn. He was too proud to directly ask a gift, but when conferred with, would. accept it with becoming grace and dignity; neither would he allow the matter to rest there, but was sure at some time afterward to make an appropriate return. Moreover, he was exceedingly temperate, especially during the latter years of his residence at Painesville. The extent of his libations consisted of cider and Malaga wine. His conversion to temperance was brought about by a violent act of his earlier life, when, under the influence of strong spirits, he aimed a blow with his tomahawk at his wife, which split the head of the papoose on her back. Perhaps a still more remarkable trait, remembering that he was. a full blooded and typical Indian, was his disinclination to accept credit in any of his trading transactions. Whenever he violated this rule he was sure to make punctual payment in specie. Seneca was a warm friend of the famous Ogontz and the two were often together at and near Sandusky. Both were ardent friends of the whites and contributed in every way they could to promote their welfare, especially during the perilous time of 1812-13. The last seen of good old Seneca was during the war of 1812, when he resided in the vicinity of Cleveland. . It is supposed that he afterward migrated with his people to their lands farther west; at least from that time all trace of him was lost. THE COMING OF THE FIRST WHITES. It is believed that the earliest event recorded by history in which a white man entered the present limits of Lake county to confer with its primitive owners regarding the occupancy of the soil, was in November, 1760, when Major Robert Rogers with his hardy rangers camped at the mouth of the Grand river near the present site of Fairport for the purpose of interviewing that great Indian chief, Pontiac. The permanent settlement of the county, however, was assured by the survey inaugurated by the Connecticut Land Company in 1796. The first dwelling, or cabin, in Lake county was constructed by Charles Parker, one of the surveyors, during that year. The surveyors appraised the townships in this part of the Western Reserve, and the quality of the lands in Lake county was brought to favorable notice in the course of this work, which included the equalizing of the various land values. The area of the county, which now embraces seven of these townships (all but Leroy), was found to possess soil valued far above the average ; in fact, a more favorable report was made in this regard than upon any other section of the Reserve. The significance of this comparison did not escape the attention of Edward Paine, who in the spring of 1800 moved from Cleveland, then a feeble settlement of seven souls, and began a settlement on the rich lands of the Grand river. HON. JOHN WALWORTH. The month before Mr. Paine became a resident of Painesville, witnessed the advent of its first real settler, namely, Hon. John Walworth, whose history is mainly connected with. Cleveland as its first collector of the port. John Walworth came from Aurora, New York, to Mentor, Lake county, during the year 1799. He remained in that locality through the winter, but returned to New York in the spring for his family, his wife, Julianna, and 270 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE three sons and two daughters. John O'Mic, who was hung for murder, an account of which is given in the history of Cuyahoga county, was a playmate of these children when a boy. Upon coming again into the Western Reserve, however, Mr. Walworth decided that the lands along the Grand river were most preferable, and the family therefore located their new home on the present site of Painesville, April 8, 1800. This spot was then called Bloomingdale. This first permanent settler of Lake county is described as a man of small stature, but very active, and of a most pleasing cast of countenance. Not a few of the older settlers may still remember a paper cut profile, which was in the possession of his family at Cleveland and which bears out this description with quite remarkable force. The upper part of the profile is concealed by the hair, which is brought down from the forehead according to the fashion of his times. Judge Walworth was called upon to fill many important offices in the early history of the Reserve. In 1802 he was commissioned as justice of the peace for Trumbull county, was appointed associate judge in 1803, postmaster at Painesville in 1804, and inspector of the new port of Cuyahoga (Cleveland) in 1805, and collector of the district of Erie, associate judge of Geauga county and postmaster at Cleveland in 1806. It was about this time he exchanged land with Samuel Huntington and took his family to Cleveland. When the county of Cuyahoga was organized he became county clerk and recorder. He was still holding the last named office at the time of his death, September 10, 1812. It is evident that Judge. Walworth was a man of fine ability and honesty, or he would not have been called upon t6 fill so many offices in those days, as it is well known that professional, office hunters were effectually "squelched" during that period. It is also upon record that Mrs. Walworth was fully worthy of the companionship and admiration of such a man. She was long remembered as a kind, dignified, brave and judicious woman. When the stampede occurred at Cleveland, on the occasion of Hull's surrender, she was one of the three ladies who refused to leave the place. Like the sturdy women of her day, she rode a horse, not as a graceful exercise, but in order to accompany her husband in his long journeys necessary in the discharge of his official duties. In 1810 she crossed the mountains in this manner, by way of Pittsburg and Philadelphia, to the eastern cities. She survived her husband more than forty years, passing away at Cleveland, March 2, 1853. It seems regrettable that Judge Walworth did not live to realize the brilliant hopes he had formed for his city and county, as his death occurred during the darkest days of the war of 1812, a year before Perry's grand victory at Put-in bay. GENERAL EDWARD PAINE. General Edward Paine, from whom Painesville takes her name, was a native of Bolton, Connecticut, born in 1746. During the Revolutionary war he served for seven months as ensign in a regiment of state militia. He again entered the service in June, 1776, as first lieutenant, and served thus until December of that year. In 1777 he continued his patriotic services as lieutenant and captain, and at the conclusion of the war moved from Bolton to New York state. He first located on the Susquehannah river and afterward made his home at Aurora. While residing at that place he served for several sessions as a representative. in the New York state legislature. In the fall of 1790, in company with his oldest son, Edward Paine, Jr., he made an excursion into the Western Reserve for the purpose of trading with the Indians. Father and son reached the mouth of the Cuyahoga river when there were but two white persons living there, namely, Mr. and Mrs. Job Stiles. With this good couple, General Paine and his son boarded until the following HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 271 spring, when the elder man returned to the home in Aurora and in 1798 went to Connecticut and purchased 1,000 acres of the Connecticut Land Company—the tract which afterward included the site of Painesville. In the summer after the purchase had been made, General Paine prepared for the removal of his family, his wife, Rebecca, and eight children. A girl, Eliza, was the first white child born in the county. Another daughter, Lydia, when a child, rode her horse alone alongside the Indian trail to Harpersfield, and a little later she rode to Canandaigua, swimming streams and being alone in the forests. Through his influence and persuasion a number of friends were induced to join the party, among whom were Eleazar Paine, Jedediah Beard and and Joel Paine, all heads of families. The entire party numbered sixty-six. When the beautiful statue of Edward Paine, which now stands opposite Lake Erie college, was unveiled on July 2, 1901, Dr. William Stowell Mills delivered an instructive and appreciative address on the life and character of the city's founder. From this are quoted the following words descriptive of General Paine's coming to this locality, with a striking epitome of his character : "The start was made from Aurora, with sleighs; on March 5, 1800, but it was the first of May before the families were able to reach here. After they arrived on Grand river, General Paine and his little colony lost no time in getting to work. He erected his first log cabin about one mile south of Lake Erie, and two miles north of Painesville, and later, on the same site, built a more pretentious home, nothing of which now remains but a few foundation stones opposite the present shorelands. The colonists found on their arrival that the Indians had made some improvements, so the CHARTER OAK PARK AND PAINE STATUE, PAINESVILLE. party, at the earliest seed time, planted these cleared grounds and in due time reaped an abundant harvest. "As has been stated, Painesville took its name from General Paine, but his activity and his usefulness did not close with the founding of this village. Twice he was elected to the territorial legislature of Ohio, and as long as he lived was one of the enterprising and influential men of the northeastern part of the state. He lived in this, his new home, for a period of forty years. At the advanced age of ninety-five years and eleven months, 272 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE on August. 28, 1841, he closed his life on the banks of Grand river, revered, respected and esteemed, not only by his immediate friends and acquaintances, but by that large circle of active and influential men of his day, who laid the foundation of what is now the great and leading state of Ohio. "General Paine possessed in an eminent degree the traits and characteristics which distinguished that large body of pioneers who led the tide of immigration into the wilderness. These men were of a class by themselves, and stand pre-eminent among the pioneers of all preceding and succeeding times for the special qualities of hardihood and adventure, united with intellectual powers and capacities of the highest order. They not only introduced the plow-share into the virgin soil of the wilderness but they brought with them the Bible and the spelling book, the artisan, the circuit preacher and the school master, as co-ordinate parts of their enterprise. A common man with the ordinary muscular ability, courage and inherent traits of his race, without possessing intellectual attainments, cannot be the pioneer of intellectual and refined social life. Edward Paine was not merely a pioneer of the pioneer band, but he was a leader of civilizing and refining influences among his own associates, and hence these first settlers that came into the town of Painesville brought with them the seed of that intellectual development which has made its public schools, its colleges and its seminaries famous throughout the land." General Paine's high character was formally recognized during the very first year of his settlement at Painesville. In October an election was held for county officers and territorial representatives. Forty-two votes were cast in the great territory then comprising Trumbull county for the legislative member, and of this number General Paine received thirty-eight, taking his seat in the territorial legislature in 1801. His record there, as in every other activity, stamped him as a man of remarkably strong character and, although Painesville was surveyed by General Champion as stated, in 1805, it eventually was honored with the name of the man who for over forty years labored to promote its interests, as well as those of the Reserve at large. Painesville was originally called Champion, its surveyor being not only a director of the Connecticut Land Company, but a brother of Moses Cleaveland's wife. Both by virtue of his own ability and this connection with General Cleaveland, he was esteemed a man of great importance. But the survey of Painesville was simply an incident in his duties. What has been called. the Champion survey comprises about eighty acres of the present city, its western limits having been fixed by local investigators at the junction Erie and Mentor streets. In this survey, what is now State street was the old State road, what is now Liberty was then Market street and what is Erie, was then Lake street. It should also be stated that the original plat did not extend to the Grand river. Hon. Samuel Huntington; Governor of the state of Ohio from 1808 to 1810, was one of the strong men of the Western Reserve, who assisted ,in framing the first constitution of the state, and who during the later years of the life made his home in Painesville. The main public acts of his life are given in the general history. He also became identified with a number of pioneer business enterprises of importance, erecting in 1803, in connection with several other gentlemen, the first warehouse in Lake county and one of the first on the southern shores. It was located at the mouth of the Grand river within the limits of the present village of Fairport. It was in this warehouse also that the first court in old Geauga county was held. In 1812 Governor Huntington also laid out the town of Fairport, on the east bank of Grand river, and during the succeeding five years of his life contributed much to the advancement both of Painesville and the former place. Governor Huntington is considered one of HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 273 the most polished and scholarly of the pioneers who so largely contributed to the progress of the Western Reserve. He had spent several years of his early life in France and his manners were not only affable, but were considered to pattern somewhat after the French style. In business his habits were correct and efficient, and as a lawyer and judge he stood in the highest ranks. His appointment as a judge of the supreme court on April 3, 1803, which was signed by Governor Tiffin, was the first issued under the seal of the state of Ohio. He was in every way a worthy protege of his uncle, Governor Samuel Huntington, of Con- SAMUEL HUNTINGTON HOUSE, FAIRPORT. necticut. It is said that the only time when the latter executive visited the Western Reserve was at the trial of one McMahon, of Warren, charged with the murder of an Indian at the Salt Springs. , This was the first case tried on the Western Reserve. Judge Huntington was one of those who felt himself obliged to abandon the city of Cleveland on account of its unhealthy surroundings, and about 1805 removed to the mills he had purchased at the Falls of Mill creek, or Newburg. At that time the latter was much the larger settlement.. As has been noted, he eventually fixed upon the banks of the Grand river as his future home and upon Frport as the scene of his business improvements. The residence of Sauel Huntington, which still stands on the shore of the lake just east of Fairport, is probably the most unique historic dwelling in Lake county. In view of the accompanying illustration, a word descriptive of it is unnecessary. It is here presented through the courtesy of Edwin G. Huntington, a graduate of Buchtel college, formerly captain in the Ohio National Guard, a justice of the peace, a grandson of Governor Samuel Huntington, and the only living descendant in Lake county of a family that has made history in two states of the Union. COUNTRY ROADS AND RAILROADS. In various portions of the general history and the sketches of the counties of the Western Reserve reference is made to what were known in the early times as the Girdled, the State and the Chillicothe roads. At this stage of the narrative it is appropriate to definitely connect these historic thoroughfares with the history of Lake county, and this has already been done so thoroughly by that well known writer on pioneer events, A. G. Smith, of Vol. I-18 274 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE Painesville, that no effort will be made to improve upon his work. The following is therefore extracted from one of his historic articles published in the Telegraph-Republican of that place : "In new countries having a timber growth and diversified surface, paths and roads are likely to follow the course of least resistance. "That is to say—wherever hills, streams or other obstacles interfere with a direct course, they are prone to diverge occasionally, keeping only the same general direction toward a desired point. This is especially noticeable in the so-called east and west roads along the ridges which, though greatly admired today as thoroughfares of easy travel, are by no means free from curves and somewhat abrupt change of direction and it is therefore reasonable to infer that many, but not all, of our early highways are the development of cow-paths and Indian trails modified by use and recognized by law. OLD STATE ROAD. "This once greatly traveled route to Warren, Ohio, enters the county at Levin's Hollow in Concord township, thence northwesterly to Wilson's Corners and northerly to 'Eaton's Hill' near the Baltimore & Ohio viaduct. thence easterly along the old fair grounds and Bank street to State street, to Erie as far as Elm and thence by a circuitous route along the high land bordering Grand river to 'Skinner's 'Bridge' and to its northern terminus at Fairport harbor. OLD CHILLICOTHE ROAD. "This ancient highway, whose name is growing somewhat dim in the general mind, leads south from the famous Mormon temple at Kirtland to one of our early state capitals, that of Chillicothe, some forty-five miles south of Columbus. "It is quite easy to picture the time when Governor Huntington, then of old Geauga (now Lake) mounted upon his horse, already equipped with saddle-bags, and holsters containing two heavy brass pistols, all of which are still in safe preservation, took his toilsome trips along rough and often muddy roads and in all sorts of weather, to fulfill the duties and functions of his honored office in the year 1808 to I810—about an even century ago. His farm residence, located on a pleasant the bluff about a mile from the lake, still remains, and the lover of things and places antique may visit the ancient tenement itself. THE OLD GIRDLED ROAD. "This is believed to be the most ancient highway marked out by the white man withi the limits of the Connecticut Western Reserve. Under the direction of the Connecticut Land Company it was surveyed from the Pennsylvania line westward probably to the Cuyahoga as its terminus, by Thomas Sheldon, of Enfield, Connecticut, in 1798. "So far as this immediate locality is concerned, the line and location of the road, running over hills and ledges as it does, seems to have been unfortunately chosen. Crossing the ledge at Thompson, it runs westward over Stony Ridge, along the watershed and to the south of the Knob and directly over Little Mountain, into the lower lands of South Mentor. A portion of the road is now unused and indeed, as a whole, it seems never to have been regarded as a thoroughfare inviting much travel. "At the Log Tavern Corners, five miles south of the county seat, it crosses the Chardon road, and eastward eighty rods, on the bank of a spring brook, Simon Perkins, surveyor, pitched his camp in 1805." The exact spot where Mr. Perkins pitched his camp has been definitely located, being some four hundred feet above Lake Erie upon a commanding and fine view of the adjacent country for miles to the southward. It is on the west margin of this first surveyed road of the Western Reserve, and it has been proposed by several of the pioneers of Lake 276 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE county to erect a monument, marking this spot. The project has been especially supported by the Daughters of the American Revolution. PIONEER RAILROAD-FIRST FATAL ACCIDENT. It is believed (and fully corroborated by the late General S. Casement, a life-long contractor) that the so-called Painesville & Warren railroad, chartered in 1835, was the first railroad built and operated within the borders of the state of Ohio. The section from Painesville to Fairport was completed in 1837, and was a crude affair of wooden stringers, protected by scrap iron, which was spiked along the inner sides of the rails. It started from the very water line of Lake Erie, at Fairport, and its horse cars were operated for more than a year from that point to its depot in Painesville. The latter was a two-story brick building, which still stands on the west side of State street, having been used for various mercantile purposes since its abandonment by the railroad company more than seventy years ago. It was the financial crash of 1837, with the after depression, which killed this pioneer and infant enterprise, but not before one of the saddest and most remarkable accidents had occurred which ever grieved the people of Painesville and Lake county. The Painesville & Warren railroad probably furnished the first victim of the moving car within the state of Ohio, the bright and beloved boy of Judge Benjamin Bissell. Let A. G. Smith, the Lake county historian, tell the remarkable circumstances attending his death in his own words : "In the year 1838 Benjamin Bissell, as presiding judge of the courts of this . district, had a wide circuit to travel. At an early hour one Sunday morning, in May of that year, he left his home in Painesville that he might hold court at. Ravenna on the following Monday. When well along is tedious forty-mile journey he felt depressed in spirits, as though some distressing calamity was about to descend upon him, or some member of his family. He strove dissipate his gloomy foreboding, but still the ominous shadow seemed to hover over him, and, strive as he would, he could not escape the impression that something dreadful was about to take place—how or where he could not even guess. But he had now reached his destination and, although he was strongly inclined to return at once to his home in Painesville, he could do no better than put up at the tavern for the night. Soon after going to bed he dreamed of approaching his home, whose door seemed open, and seeing his neighor, David Clayton, standing near the open gate as if something unusual and distressing had occurred. On again lapsing into slumber, the scene was repeated, and a third dream of similar import followed. Awakening at an early hour, in a spirit of desperation the judge resolved to adjourn court and return at once to his family, which he did with a heavy heart. "On arriving at his residence, there was the open door, with his friend Clayton standing by the open gate, just as had been pictured in his three dreams, and on passing through the door he saw the fulfillment of his nameless fears—his beloved. boy, Algernon Beight. Bissell, lay crushed and dying before his frantic eyes. "Beight Bissell, as he was usually called, was born January 15, 1830, and died May 14, 1838, and therefore was less than nine years of age. Like many another of his age, he knew not the danger that travels with the moving car. He thought to cross the track in front of one, lost his footing on a stone fall, and was so badly injured by the wheels that he died soon after his father's return. Thus we may reasonably conclude that he became the first victim in the state of Ohio of the deadly moving car." The above distressing, incident was related to me, in detail, by the late Mrs. Elizabeth Casement, daughter of D. B. Clayton, mentioned in the narrative. HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 277 A COUNTY OF BRIDGES. Lake county claims to have more bridging than any other similar area in the state—"in fact," as exclaimed by one of her citizens, "it has spanned every creek, river sand bayou within its borders one or more times, until the waters Of Lake Erie alone remain unbridged." Eight bridges afford communication with Painesville. The steel bridge had two wooden predecessors, which were swept away by floods, the last one in 1893. In 1850 the Cleveland, Painesville & Ashtabula built a PAINESVILLE CITY INFIRMARY. wooden bridge across the river, which was bured about two years afterwards and followed by two others—one of wood and the other of stone (1854). The latter, in turn,. gaye place to the great concrete structure, which was completed by the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern railroad in 1908. It carries four parallel tracks and its central span is one hundred and sixty feet from end to end. This is said to be the giant of its kind in the world. The great steel and wood viaduct of the Cleveland, Painesville & Ashtabula Electric road completes the list of eight bridges credited to the Painesville locality. MUSIC AND TEMPERANCE. In 1824 Stephen and Caroline Mathews came to Painesville, bringing with them the first piano of that city. This was given to her by her father, Dr. Cook, and is now owned by her daughter, Mrs. Raynolds. Every locality had its man or woman who early took a stand for temperance, and Mrs. Mathews did this so vigorously as to have many enemies. THE COUNTY IN 1837. The following from The Gazetteer of 1837 is most interesting by comparison: Painesville, a very flourishing post township of Geauga county. * * * It contains 22 square miles, or 14,000 acres of land, and 1,200 inhabitants; 150 dwelling houses ; 18 dry good stores and 2 druggist's stores ; 1 hardware store ; a banking house for the Bank of Geauga ; 3 meeting houses, I for Methodists, for Episcopalians, and i for Presbyterians ; 278 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE a flouring mill ; a saw mill ; 4 taverns ; 4 grocery and provision stores ; 7 physicians ; 9 lawyers; 2 jewelry shops, and other mechanics. This place (Richmond) is flourishing to an unparalleled degree and is destined to unite Painesville and Fairport into one great commercial city. There are three lines of daily stages passing, two of which carry the mail." THE PAINESVILLE OF TODAY. The, city of Painesville is now located on the main line of the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern and the New York, Chicago & St. Lous railroad, being also the terminus of the Lake division of the Baltimore & Ohio road. It also enjoys a splendid transportation service through the electric lines of the Cleveland, Painesville & Erie Company. Its population is between 5,000 and 6,000 people, thirty miles east of Cleveland, and it is one of the most restful and beautiful places in northern Ohio. Its main streets are well paved with brick, and its resident thoroughfares are broad and lined with pretty houses surrounded by spacious grounds. Its handsome public square of several acres contains a striking soldiers' monument and a music pavilion, and is surrounded by substantial buildings. LAKE COUNTY COURT HOUSE. The magnificent court house, elected in 1907 at a cost of over $350,000, is one of the most massive and striking public buildings in the eastern portion of the Reserve. Its dome like tower is surmounted by the magnificent figure of an eagle with outstretched wings. The base of the court house is constructed of stone and its body of pressed red brick. Its main portico is supported by great stone pillars, while the interior of the building is lined with beautiful marble. The county offices are on the first floor and the court room is on the second. On either side of the main vestibule is a large bronze tablet presented to the county by the Daughters of the American Revolution, and bearing inscriptions to the memory of Samuel Huntington and James A. Garfield The inscription on the Huntington tablet is as follows : "Samuel Huntington, 1765-1817; resident of Lake county ; member of first Ohio constitutional convention, 1802 ; first state senator from the Western Reserve, 18o3; judge of the supreme court, 1803-1808; governor of Ohio, 1808-1810; colonel and paymaster o Northwest army, 1812-1814." The tablet in memory of President Garfield contains the following : "James Abram Garfield, 1831-1881 ; resident of Lake county state senator, 1859-1861; major general in Civil war, 1864 ; member of congress, 1864- 1880 ; United- States senator, 188o; president of the United States, 1880-1881." On the right of the court house and also facing the public square is the large and picturesque edifice occupied by the First Methodist church, and near the latter is the building of the First National Bank, of Painesville, which, although erected in 1834, is a worthy exponent of modern architecture as applied to banking and other commercial buildings. Its front is in the impressive colonial style and the entire building is adorned with clinging vines and other shrubbery. Opposite one end of the public square is the old Lake county: court house, built at the organization of the county in 1840. It was abandoned at the completion of the present one and is now being remodeled for a city hall. The Congregational church stands opposite the old court house, and in the immediate vicinity is the church occupied by the Disciples. Painesville is a church as well as an educational center. The leading societies are perhaps the Church of Christ and St. Mary's Roman Catholic, while the Methodists, Congregationalists and Episcopalians have also flourishing associations. The colored people support two churches—the Union gregational and the St. John's Free Baptists.   Among Painesville's most worthy charities is its city hospital. In the early thirties an institution of this character was established and for many years was conducted in a small HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 279 way in various rented buildings. The present structure was occupied about 'goo, the large Stephen Mathews place (built in 1831) having been remodeled and adapted to its present purposes. RIDER'S TAVERN. Among the old landmarks in and near Painesville are the old Academy building on Washington street, erected in 1834, and Rider's Tavern, a mile west of the court house. This famous hotel was built by Joseph Rider in 1818. Prior to that year he had kept an inn on North State street. The original building was a story and a half high, being made full two stories in 1832 and otherwise enlarged. The late Zerah Rider was a life-long resident of the Mentor avenue home and the place is still the residence of his son, Z. P. Rider. The former was wont to state that when Rider's Tavern was in its prime he had often stood upon the veranda of the venerable hostelry and counted a hundred teams, most of them going west, and that as many as one hundred and fifty people at times found shelter for the night within its spacious interior. INDUSTRIES OF PAINESVILLE. Painesville is situated in the midst of a rich agricultural district, and rests its future growth and present prosperity largely upon this fact. The business of the city is transacted through both its First National Bank, already mentioned, and a flourishing branch of the Cleveland Trust Company. Its industries are small, its leading plant being that of the Coe Manufacturing Company, devoted to the turning out of veneer machinery. Of this company H. P. Coe is president, and the products of his factory are distributed to various points in the United States, South America and Europe. One of the late orders to be filled through his manufactory is one RIDER'S TAVERN, PAINESVILLE. amounting to $40,000 which came from Russia. The Ohio Manufacturing Company also does a fair business, turning out sheet metal, and S. L. Malin & Son conduct a prosperous planing mill. C. F. Thompson also has a small brick yard and the Lake Erie Concrete Company is engaged quite largely in the manufacture of material for sidewalks and houses. The Nickel Plate Milling Company operates a substantial plant. These virtually constitute the extent of Painesville's industrial life. In the matter of her educational institutions, however, the story is of a different complexion. There is no city of its size in western Ohio whose reputation stands higher in this HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 281 regard. Her public schools are finely organized and housed in buildings which are both convenient and attractive. The high school, whose main building was completed in 1898, is especially massive and pleasing in architectural appearance. In 1909 a beautiful auditorium was added to this structure at a cost of $22,000, with a seating capacity of nearly 1,000. As the property now stands, it is valued at over $60,000. The average attendance at the high school is 255. Painesville also has four buildings devoted to the lower grades, namely: The Washington street (a purely grammar school comprising scholars from the fifth to the eighth grade), with an attendance of 240; St. Clair street school, with an attendance of 135; Jackson street, with an attendance of 200 ; and State street, with an attendance of 105. The curriculum of the high school is one of the usual nature, manual training and domestic science being taught in the seventh and eighth grades or the Washington street school. An arrangement is in force with the Lake Erie college by which the girls are instructed for one year in the courses of domestic science at that institution. Painesville has an extended reputation for its musical talent, both individual and organized. Its Citizens' band is widely known, having been conducted by Professor A. C. Miller and his son, C. A. Miller. The former was its director from the founding of the band in 1888 until his death in 1895. PIONEER IRON PLANTS OF THE LAKE REGION. It is somewhat strange that, although Painesville now occupies a secondary place as an industrial center, one of the first iron PUBLIC SQUARE, PAINESVILLE (LOOKING WEST). Music Pavilion Presbyterian Church Old Court House manufactories in the Reserve (there were only two or three earlier) and one of the first pioneer metal plants in northeastern Ohio, was established in 1825 at what was then known as "Pepoon's crossing" of the Grand river—a locality now recognized as the Painesville approach to the Erie street, or Geauga, bridge. The manu factory was originally called the Geauga rurnace, being founded by Robert Blair and Charles C. and Eleazer. Paine, Mr. Blair being a farmer who lived near Chardon, the county seat of Geauga county, and the Paines being brothers and well-known business men of that place. The 282 - HISTORY OF THE. WESTERN RESERVE true story of the founding and progress of these pioneer "iron mills" was narrated, a number of years ago, by William A. Blair (son of Robert) to A. G. Smith, of Painesville, who has reproduced the narrative substantially as follows : "In 1824 Charles C. Paine and Eleazer Paine, brothers, kept a store at Chardon. Robert Blair, then living on a farm six miles west of Chardon on the Cleveland road, being at the county seat, saw a wagon standing in front of the store. Some unusual loading had attracted the attention of several men who were evidently discussing its uses or value, and, approaching Mr. Blair, found it was iron ore from Madison, being transported to some forge in the south part of the county—perhaps that at Parkman. Mr. Blair remarked freight should be handled such a distance over rough and rooty roads to be converted into iron. Charles Paine, inquiring where the proper place would be, Mr. Blair replied at Pepoon's crossing—now known as the Erie street, or Geauga, bridge. The suggestion of Mr. Blair seemed to have awakened a fresh ambition in the mind of Mr. Paine, and at a subsequent conference held at Hoyt's tavern, upon the present site of the Chardon House, Mr. Blair was asked the probable cost of a smelting plant at the point named. He had no knowledge of the iron business, but after some hesitation named $20,000. Some months afterward Mr. Paine said he had had some correspondence with eastern furnace men and found Mr. Blair's estimate of the cost of construction a fair one, and urged Mr. Blair to go on at once and erect buildings, a dam, etc. To this suggestion he plead the labor and care of his farin and other business, but finally consented to investigate the supply of ore that might be expected from the Madison mines, and, if the result seemed to warrant, to survey the fall of . the river and find what power might be expected. Finding both ore and water power giving promise of fair supply, the Geauga Iron Company was organized, with Robert Blair, Charles C. Paine, Eleazer Paine, James R. Ford and Benjamin F. Tracy as incorporators. "In the spring of 1825 the work of building the Geauga plant was vigorously inaugurated, and the furnace was soon in operation. The company was dissolved about 1850, and the right-of-way over and through the plant was conveyed to what is now the Lake Shore railroad. A new company was then organized called the Geauga Furnace Company, having for its members Robert Blair, Samuel Phelps, P. P. Sanford and Thomas Greer, and new smelting works were built just north of the old location. The building of the new plant—in view of the gradual failure of the ore supply and the increased cost of charcoal—is believed to have been a miscalculation, and the smelting department fell into disuse. About 1860 the works received a new name—the Geauga Stove Company—R. L. Blair and H. P. Sanford becoming proprietors. Still later, perhaps in the early nineties, another organization; under the name of the Geauga Furnace and Manufacturing Company, took charge of the works. The late General J. S. Casement was the chief owner of this industry, which was devoted to the manufacture of stoves. "The so-called Railroad furnace, near the southeast corner of the county, built by Mr. Thorndyke and Mr. Dewey in 1825 (soon after the Geauga Furnace), fell into the bands of the Geauga company, but, owing to the increased cost and scarcity of material, was abandoned about 1838." LAKE ERIE COLLEGE. This institution holds a high place among the women colleges of the country which have been founded on the famous Holyoke system. The institution was known as the Lake Erie Female Seminary from 1834 to 1898. The scope of the curriculum was then broadened, the board of trustees voted to change the name to Lake Erie College and Seminary, and in 284 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE 1908 it assumed its present title, Lake Erie College. LAKE ERIE FEMALE SEMINARY. Lake Erie Female Seminary was an outgrowth of the educational work of Mary Lyon, who in 1837 founded Mt. Holyoke Seminary in South Hadley; Massachusetts. It is, also, the successor of Willoughby Female Seminary, founded at Willoughby, Ohio, in 1847, and discontinued by the burning of the seminary building in 1856. The pleasant town of Willoughby, nineteen miles east of Cleveland, was early interested in education. In 1834, under the power conferred by its charter, the trustees of the Medical college established there contemplated the addition of other departments of instruction, including an that it was never intended that this heavy extended course of study for young women. A committee was appointed to confer with ladies who were conducting successful schools for girls, among them, Mrs: Willard, of Troy. This movement failed of an immediate result, but, upon the removal of the Medical college to Cleveland, the attention of the trustees was directed to the establishment of a female seminary. It was to Mt. Holyoke Seminary, which then had been in successful operation for ten years, that the committeenow turned ;and Miss Lyon, whose sympathies had always been strongly enlisted for . the growing west, entered into their plans with .great interest. She recommended as principal of the proposed school one of her own graduates, Miss Roxena B. Tenney, who had already declined an invitation to become a teacher in Mt. Holyoke Seminary and in other places in New England, under the strong conviction that she could be more useful as a teacher in the west. Miss Tenney being favorably disposed towards the new enterprise, the college building was refitted with recitation rooms and music rooms, and one large hall which could accommodate two hundred pupils. Board and lodging were provided in private families and later a boarding hall was built, accommodating, with the teachers, about forty pupils The school opened in April, 1847, for a trial term of twelve weeks, with fourteen pupils. the number increasing to fifty before the close of the term. So great was the satisfaction with the result of the experiment that the number reached one hundred the next year, and there were four graduates. It would be interesting to trace, in detail, the growth of this vigorous young seminary during the seven years of Miss Tenney's efficient principalship. The number of pupils increased each year till applicants were refused for want of room. Earnest students accepted inconvenient guarters, and citizens of Willoughby sacrificed home comfort and quiet to accommodate the many who were so eager for an education. It was thought that the number of students would reach three or four hundred, if the accommodations could be increased. The course of study, three years long, was nearly the same as at Mt. Holyoke seminary, including Latin and the higher mathematics, and, in the last year, mental and moral philosophy and the Evidences of Christianity. A preparatory department was a necessity ; more attention was given to music and painting and the modern languages than at the mother school, but the standard of scholarship was high, and Willoughby seminary was an acknowledged power for good in northern Ohio. The teachers, usually ten in number, were full of enthusiasm, and felt themselves supported by a wise and large-minded board of trustees. Among the many honored names of those who thus served the seminary, that of the Rev. Alvan Nash, pastor of the Presbyterian church in Willoughby, deserves special mention. The number of pupils enrolled in 1853-4 was 226. At this point of prosperity MissTenney was obliged to resign the principalship by reason of ill health. Fortunately another Mt. Holyoke graduate and her associate at Willoughby, Miss Marilla Houghton, was HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 285 ready and willing to assume the charge. The seminary continued to prosper for the next two years, notwithstanding the necessity for another change in the fall of 1855, when Miss. Julia Tolman, afterwards associate principal of Mt. Holyoke Seminary, became principal. In the winter of 1856, the building, which had been the home, first, of the medical college and then of the seminary, was burned. Recitation rooms were improvised in the town, so that the school was not entirely broken up, and the senior class finished their course and received their diplomas. SEMINARY REMOVES TO PAINESVILLE. Many times during those years the trustees had considered plans for enlargement and endowment, but no one had seen the way to fulfill them, for the era of large gifts for the education of women had not come. Advice had been sought from New England, and Rev. Roswell Hawks, who had been an agent in collecting funds for Mt. Holyoke Seminary, had been invited to Ohio to confer with the trustees. After the building was burned a question arose as to permanent location. Mr. awks, from the first, was in favor of a larger town. He also desired to see such a building and such arrangements as would make it possible to carry out the Mt. Holyoke plan completely. And so the question became largely one of raising funds. A number of towns in the Western Reserve were interested. Willoughby by could not give up the school of her love 4without a struggle ; citizens of Painesville bestirred themselves and made liberal offers; and the trustees finally voted, though by a bare majority of one vote, to locate the seminary in this town upon a somewhat different basis. Father Hawks, as he was familiarly called, was appointed an agent to present its claims and solicit subscriptions through northern Ohio. Gentlemen of Painesville, members of the new board of trustees, especially Hon. A. Wilcox and Hon. C. A. Avery, labored with untiring zeal in providing means and in superintending the erection of the building. The articles of association under which the Lake Erie Female Seminary was incorporated in 1856 declare the object proposed to be the promotion of thorough and complete female education, and "for that purpose, the system of instruction, the principles of government, and the general plan of management shall be substantially after the plan of Mt. Holyoke Seminary, at South Hadley, in Massachusetts." The special feature copied in the new seminary, which had not been possible at Willoughby, was the family life, all the students being gathered under one roof and sharing in the domestic duties to the extent of one hour's work each day. The grounds and premises of the seminary, half a mile west of the business part of Painesville, comprised fourteen acres, including a fine grove of oaks and chestnuts. The building was situated upon sandy soil, easily drained and favorable to health, but, not then, especially attractive. Maple trees and evergreens were set out, and some slight attempts made at landscape gardening. The seminary building, facing the north, with Lake Erie in sight from its upper windows, one hundred and eighty feet by sixty feet, was four stories high above the basement. The unfinished ends, east and west, were suggestive of the wings, which, it was hoped, would be needed for the growing school. The main building was planned to accommodate a family of one hundred and fifty. The furniture was largely contributed by the citizens of Painesville, women preparing bedding and like articles. A festival, conducted by women, made possible the purchase of a Brussels carpet and hair-cloth furniture for the parlor, which then took on the more stately name of drawing room. Again, there were conferences with the principal of Mt. Holyoke, the successor of Miss Lyon, who died in 1849. Miss Mary Bronson, a Holyoke graduate in 1858, came to Painesville some months before the completion of 286 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE the building to conduct a school for the special preparation of those who wished to enter the seminary in the fall. The principal of Mt. Holyoke, Miss Chapin, spent some weeks in Painesville assisting the building committee in their plans for the internal arrangement of the building. In September, 1859, a company of seven teachers, most of them graduates of Mt. Holyoke, opened the school, Miss Lydia A. Sessions being principal. There were one hundred and twenty- seven pupils and two graduates at the close of the first year. The number of pupils steadily increased, and, notwithstanding the financial depression and the excitement of the Civil war, the history of the seminary was one o f marked prosperity during the principalship of Miss Sessions, which continued from 1859 to 1866. Upon her marriage, in the winter of 1866, to Rev. W. W. Woodworth, then pastor of the Congregational church in Painesville, the teachers who had accompanied Miss Sessions from Mt. Holyoke shared the government of the school till September of the same year, when the trustees appointed as principal Miss Anna C. Edwards, of Mt. Holyoke. In 1867 another Mt: Holyoke enterprise at Kalamazoo, Michigan, called for a colonizing from Painesville, and Miss Fisher, Miss Smead, and afterward Miss Dorr of the older teachers, left the seminary for the new work. Miss Fisher held the position of principal of the Michigan seminary from 1867 till her marriage, in 1879, to Hon. E. S. Moore, of Three Rivers, Michi- MISS MARY EVANS, LAKE ERIE COLLEGE. MISS LUETTE P. BENTLEY, LAKE ERIE CO gan. Miss Edwards returned to Mt. Holyoke Seminary in the summer of 1868, becoming associate principal of the mother school in 1872. MARY EVANS AND LUETTE P. BENTLEY. Miss Mary Evans, also of Mt. Holyoke, became principal of this seminary in September, 1868, and Miss Luette P. Bentley, one of its own graduates in 1865, was appointed associate principal in 1878. Miss Evans only relinquished her connection with the seminary HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 287 (now the Lake Erie College) with the jubilee celebration of June, 1909, while Miss Bentley. the honored clean of the faculty, is still active in its support and advancement. Her connection with the faculty is now chiefly confined to lectures on physiology. The former president of the college, who is now (1910) absent in Europe, has long since taken her rank among the leading educators of women. in the country. She was born in. Philadelphia, February I I, 1841, graduating at the age of nineteen from the Mt. Holyoke Seminary. In 1877, after she had been princi- BENTLEY HALL OF SCIENCE, LAKE ERIE COLLEGE. pal of Lake Erie Seminary for nine years, she rent abroad and attended lectures in art history in London. While at Mt. Holyoke Seminary, she was a teacher of Latin and history, her special branches at the Lake Erie Seminary and College being physiology, ethics and biblical literature. She also acquired a wide reputation as a lecturer on literary, religious and educational subjects. Oberlin College conferred the degree of A. M. upon her in 1895, and in 1901 Mt. Holyoke College added that of Litt. D. RESPECT FOR WORK AND WORKER. Regarding the work of the seminary at Painesville, Miss Bentley says : "The students did the work and the teachers were wonderful examples of ability to do that which they trained the students to do. In those days each student worked sixty minutes each day. After a few years we began to have some help in the kitchen and the period of work was shortened to forty minutes. With the passing of the years, young women came to us who knew much less about work, and we have had more and more help. In the beginning the system of domestic work was introduced, so as to make it possible for those who had not money to meet the expense of board and tuition to secure it ; because the students doing the work made the money expense very small. There was a time when the year's board and tuition at Mount Holyoke was seventy dollars, and in the beginning, at 'Lake Erie' it was ninety dollars. "Working together in this way helps the student in habits of system, promptness, unselfishness, respect for work and respect for 288 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE the one who does it. We now expect each student at 'Lake Erie' to work thirty-five minutes daily." FAITHFUL TRUSTEES. Continuing the history of Lake Erie Seminary, it may be added' that Miss Lyon's idea of beginning, "free of encumbrance," was not realized at Painesville. A heavy debt was incurred at the outset. By wonderful self-denial on the part of teachers, and thorough oversight of the trustees, the current expenses of the seminary were met even through war-time. But the debt did not lessen till, by special subscriptions in 1869, and chiefly by a Christmas gift of ten thousand dollars, in 1871, from that noble giver, Hon. Reuben Hitchcock, it melted away and has been seen no more. Nor was it possible, in the following years, to meet expenses and also make improvements. Many a time and oft have a faithful few stood ready to supply the needed sum, running to a thousand or several thousand dollars. The name of "Hitchcock" heads the list. In 1871 a gas well was sunk, steam heating installed in the same year, appliances for cooking by steam in 1880, and the elevator in 1881. Almost every year saw "something attempted, something done," because Judge Hitchcock would quietly say in the annual meeting of trustees in June, when plans were discussed, "I will do thus and so." These were the years when important trusts in railroad affairs were bringing to him an unusually large income, and he chose to use his surplus for Christian education. He was seconded in this work by his colleagues in the board, Hon. Aaron Wilcox and Hon. C. A. Avery, of Painesville, and younger trustees were of a willing mind to help. as they were able, even as General J. S. Casement, to sink a thousand dollars in the ground, seven hundred feet, in the hope that gas might be found for lighting and heating the building. With an inexhaustible supply at his own beautiful home over the river it did not seem too sanguine an undertaking, although the results failed to meet the expectation. The largest improvement during the twenty-five years prior to 1880 was the erection of an addition to the main building, seventy by forty feet, and three stories high. No agent was employed to solicit subscriptions. One of the trustees, Rev. C. Haydn, D. D., pastor of one of the largest churches in Cleveland, gave his time and strength to the work and raised the needed sum, ten thousand dollars. The work of building was begun in the summer of 1876, and the basement and the first floor, containing a beautiful dining room with large bay window at the south end, was ready for use in January, 1877. The second story, with rooms for the sick at the south end, was completed in the following summer, through a special contribution from Jared Murray, of Concord, Ohio. The third story was not finished till 1881. THE HITCHCOCK FUND. In February, 1879, Judge Hitchcock placed to the account of the seminary the sum of ten thousand dollars as the nucleus of a permanent fund of fifty thousands dollars "for the aid of needy and deserving pupils in the payment of their term bills, and for the procuring of lectures, library, cabinets and apparatus." This gift was conditioned upon raising the remaining forty thousand dollars within five years from that date, with the agreement that the income of the ten thousand dollars, during the five years, should belong to the seminary for the purpose mentioned. This was the first effort for an endowment. Judge Hitchcock had also given, between 1869 and 1879, more than ten thousand dollars to aid student, Within the next two years additions of on thousand dollars from .Dr. Dan P. Eells, Cleveland, and five hundred dollars each from Hon. William H. Upson and Rev. Hubbard Laurence, all trustees of the seminary, were made to the fund. Later, Jared Murray, of Concord, added another five hundred. Here HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 289 the matter rested till the Christmas of 1880, when Judge Hitchcock added fifteen thousand dollars in the name of his wife and children. He also made provision that, in case of his death before the expiration of the five years, the sums which he had given should constitute the Hitchcock fund of twenty-five thousand dollars, the income of which should be used solely for the aid of students in need of help in the payment of their bills for board and tuition. THE PASSING OF FAITHFUL TRUSTEES. The five years from 1879 to 1883 were full of sorrow for the old-time friends of Lake MURRAY LIBRARY, 1908. Erie Seminary, for during that short period they lost four of the oldest and most faithful trustees. Silas T. Ladd died in December, 1879; Judge Wilcox passed away in May, Mt; Judge O. H. Fitch in September, 1883, and Judge Hitchcock on Thanksgiving day of the same year. A remarkable fact connected with the management of the collegiate finances redounds to the great honor of its trustees. It is certainly to the everlasting credit of their fidelity and ability that, in the management of such a large institution, from 1868 to 1908 no general superintendent was employed. Such Vol. I-19 details as the purchase of supplies and the improvement and oversight of the buildings all came under the supervision of the executive committee and the trustees residing in Painesville. The forty years succeeding the incorporation of Lake Erie Female Seminary developed an especially vigorous life and high degree of culture, and a gradually extending course of study. In 1898 a college standard had been so nearly reached in requirements for education and graduation that it seemed unjust to withhold from its graduates a college degree. In that year, therefore, the scope of the curriculum was broadened, which entitled them to this recognition in the educational world. THE COLLEGE AS IT IS. Miss Evans was succeeded in the presidency by Miss Vivian Blanche Small, M. A. She heads a strong faculty of twenty trained educators and the attendance of the college has now reached nearly 200. The standards and equipment of the conservatory of music are among the best in the country; the household science department is unusually complete, and the college degrees in arts and science conform to the requirements of the Ohio College Association, which 290 - HISTORY OF THE, WESTERN RESERVE comprises the leading educational institutions of the state. The heads of departments are women of thorough scholarship, as well as broad culture, and hold their high degrees from leading colleges and universities. The entire endowment of the college, including the jubilee fund, is $110,000; the principal aid to students in the form of scholarships being known as the Hitchcock Fund, established between 1856 and 1883 by Hon. Reuben Hitchcock, of Painesville, formerly president of the board of trustees, and amounting to $25,000. In addition to the large main buildings of the college are Memorial Hall, erected in 1891; Bentley Hall of Science, built in 1896, and Murray Library, occupied in 1908. The entire value of the buildings, apparatus, art collections and grounds (now comprising thirty acres) is placed at $400,000. THE MORLEY LIBRARY. It would be inexcusable to omit mention of the Morley Library as among the real educational institutions of Painesville. It now consists of 10,000 well selected volumes. The nucleus of the library was formed in the early seventies, when the temperance library and reading room were established by the W. C. T. U. Miss Mary Dean was librarian for more than twenty years, or until her death in January, 1898. Her numerous friends, however, had organized to carry out her most ardent wish, namely, the establishment of a free public library and reading room, and in the month following her decease a charter was obtained for this purpose and an appeal to the public to establish a public library on a practical basis met with response from nearly 140 citizens. Finally George T. Steele was appointed president of the new library association, and entered eagerly into his work, rented the old temperance rooms and made them comfortable and attractive. To the collections of the W. C. T. U. and the Y. M. C. A. 'were added 1,000 books, donated by C. H. Moore, of Clinton, Illinois. Other gifts followed and a permanent librarian (Mr. Ashley) was appointed, and finally J. H. Morley, who had left Painesville for Cleveland in 1847, but had retained his business interests and affections for his own home town, agreed to purchase a lot and build a library, while the city of Painesville agreed to support the institution by public taxation. George P. Steele was elected permanent president of the association, and in October, 1899, the library which is now occupied was formally dedicated, it being a memorial to Mr. Morley's parents. The books of the association were transferred to the new structure and placed in charge of Mrs. Julia G. Erwin and upon her resignation, her assistant, Miss Margaret Kilbourne, succeeded her as librarian. In 1903, shortly after the death of her husband, Mrs. Morley donated a sufficient sum of money for the establishment of a children's corner in the public library, which now comprises about 1,000 books, besides a number of well selected magazines. In 1906 the township trustees made an appropriation to the library fund, by which those living outside of Painesville and within the township became entitled to the use of the library. The continued interest and generosity of the Morley family were further demonstrated in 1909 by a generous gift, which enabled the library management to thoroughly repair the building. The president of the library board is F. H. Kendall, and Miss Margaret Kilbourne still serves as librarian. PAINESVILLE NEWSPAPERS. The press of Painesville is represented by the Telegraph-Republican, and the Lake County Herald. The first number of the Telegraph was issued in June, 1822, under the editorship and proprietorship of Eber D. Howe. The Painesville Republican, was started by Hon. J. A. Beidler and associates in the fall of 1898, and was merged into the Telegraph, under its present name, in 1967. The consolidated journal is published by the Telegraph-Republican HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 291 Company, under the editorship of J. S. Burrows. (The author is indebted to the Telegraph-Republican Company for a majority of the illustrations used in this chapter.) EBER D. HOWE. Eber D. Howe, the founder of the Telegraph, died at the residence of his daughter, Mrs. Rogers, on the 13th of November, 1885, being then in his eighty-eighth year. The fifth of a family of six children, he was born in Saratoga, New York, June 9, 1798, and well remembered the burning of the Buffalo by the British in 1814. He was wont to say that by noon of January 1, in that year, there was but one house left standing in the city and adjacent country. This was a small house located on Main street, owned and occupied by widow St. John, the mother of Dr. St. John, of Willoughby," adding that its defense was due to the determined resistance made by the daughters of the patriotic widow. After the war of 1812 Mr. Howe became an apprentice in the office of the Buffalo Gazette, the first paper started on the shores of Lake Erie. In 1817 he was sent further west and in August, 1818, at Black Rock, he was present at the launching of "Walk-in-the-Water," the first steamboat.on Lake Erie. In September of the same year he found work on the Erie Gazette, and in the following spring went to Cleveland, where he assisted in the distribution of the Herald, one of the pioneer papers of that city, besides making himself otherwise generally useful in the office. On the 16th of July, 1822, he put forth the first number of the Painesville Telegraph, some years afterward selling the paper and becoming a successful woolen manufacturer in Concord township, this county. During all his active newspaper career Mr. Howe was a strong abolitionist and an ardent champion of Lincoln and all his policies. He was a man who used neither whiskey, tobacco nor profanity, and for forty-five years an outspoken spiritualist. To e last he retained his characteristic cheerfulness. A few days before his death, in response to the inquiries of a friend as to his condition, he smilingly said, "Only waiting till the shadows are a little longer grown." The Lake County Herald was founded in December, 1899, by C.. F. Overacker. Its present proprietor, M. L. Harter, assumed ownership in February, 190o. In 1906 the Educational Supply Company was incorporated with a capital of $25,000. Besides the publication of the Herald, this company is engaged in a large and growing business, embracing the printing, embossing and engraving of schol books. It also furnishes a general line of school supplies. Y. M. C. A. OF PAINESVILLE. Among the institutions which are indispensable to Painesille's progress should be mentioned its Young Men's Christian Association, which dates its organization from. December, 1866. At first the organization took the simple form of a regular weekly prayer meeting for young men, but in 1867 a reading room and library were added to its plan. In the early nineties, through the bequest of Mrs. Eunice B. Ladd, $6,000 was added to its financial support, this sum, with additional gifts, being invested in real estate on Main street. In 1894 a gymnasium was fitted up, and since then other features have been added to its work, which brings it up to the modern standard of all such associations. In 1905 it became necessary to secure a larger building than that occupied on Main street, with the result that the Steele, residence on the park was secured for this purpose. The dwelling was remodeled to adapt it to the special work of the association, and through the generosity of George Wyman, of South Bend, Indiana, formerly. a resident of Painesville, a large and complete gymnasium was erected in the rear of the property. FAIRPORT AS IT IS. Fairport, with its 2,000 or more people, is one of the leading ports of entry for the vast 292 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE ore productions of the Lake Superior region and also a large shipping center for the coal fields of Ohio and Pennsylvania. Yet the visitor to this pretty little village and busy harbor can have little conception of its greater importance nearly three-quarters of a century ago, when it was considered one of Cleveland's strongest rivals. As already stated, the original village was laid out, in 1812, by Governor Samuel Huntington and others. By the late thirties various attempts had been made to permanently connect it by rail with Painesville, Wellsville and other more distant points, but the panic of 1836-7 was the death blow to these early efforts. At the time mentioned, where immense ore piles now lie upon the docks, there stood a line of warehouses occupied by the following parties, engaged in the storage and commission business : Dexter, Knight & Co., M. L. Root & Co., B. O. Wilcox, John Weaver, Robert McCormick and Samuel Butler. It was in 1845 that Mr. Card commenced business in Fairport. He erected a large warehouse on the river near the lake and government pier, where he soon built up an extended business. The steamboats on the lake, at that time, all used wood for fuel, and Mr. Card was then the principal dealer in steamboat wood. Honorable Samuel Butler, a man of very strong character, and more than ordina ability, had the greatest faith in the future Fairport, and at the time the Lake Shore railroad was building scouted the idea that the railroad could ever compete with lake navigation. FAIRPORT IN THE FORTIES. In 1845 a line of stages from Wellsville via Warren to Fairport was placed in operation, making tri-weekly trips. These stages run over the Painesville & Warren plank road, which extended from Fairport to Bloomfield, Trumbull county, and there connected with the pike to Warren. For a number of years this was a busy thoroughfare, but was discontinued as a toll road in the late fifties. In 1845 there were four hotels in Fairport ___ one, the largest, situated on the south corner HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 293 of Water and Second streets, kept by Phineas Root; one on the opposite corner, the Fifielci House, a brick building on the hill just east of the Light House, called the Eagle Tavern, and a brick building just opposite, or on the southeast corner, called the Clinton House. The most imposing building was the brick block situated just in front of the present railroad office, at the foot of the hill. This building, owing to the decline of business, rapidly fell to decay and was torn down. In 1847, in order to recover the trade that Fairport formerly had with Warren and other towns south, a plank road was constructed to Windsor to connect with the turnpike to Warren ; but it did not fulfil the expectation of its projectors, new conditions having turned expected trade in other directions. The first light house was placed at the harbor in 1825, the present coast structure being completed in 1871. FAIRPORT'S SPLENDID HARBOR. It is Fairport's wonderful harbor which of late years has again brought it permanently before the commercial world of the middle west. The Baltimore & Ohio railroad and the Pittsburg Steel Company have been the main factors in improving the dockage of Grand river from its mouth to Richmond, while for several years the general government has been engaged in the building of breakwaters in the harbor proper. The principal work now being carried on is the completion of the west arm of the breakwater. An appropriation of $250,000 has also been made for the extension of the east arm. The plan of the general government is to throw these extensions into the lake for a distance of some 3,000 feet. In addition to these harbor improvements, now well under way, Fairport has three first-class harbor lights and a massive coast light house, which rises more than ioo feet above lake level. This coast light has only one possible rival on the southern shores of Lake Erie. As Grand river has been thoroughly dredged for three miles from its mouth to a point beyond Richmond, it is evident that this grand waterway affords every facility for floating the largest freighters which ply the Great Lakes. In fact, it is no unusual sight, while a storm is raging on Lake Erie, to see a fleet of these immense freighters, some of them carrying io,000 tons of iron ore, headed for the comparatively quiet waters of Fairport. If they are not destined for its docks, they anchor and await with security the passing of the tempest. ORE AND COAL MOVEMENTS. During the year 1909 about 350 vessels, engaged in the coastwise trade, entered and cleared from Fairport, representing a tonnage of nearly 1,000,000 tons. The entrance and clearance of foreign (mostly Canadian) vessels amounted to nearly 41,000 tons. The docks at Fairport controlled by the Pennsylvania and Lake Erie railroad are used for the unloading of iron ore from the lake freighters, the annual receipts of which amount to nearly 2,000,000 tons. The Pittsburg Coal Company owns the docks which are employed for the shipment of coal, the latter amounting to 15,000 tons every year to domestic points, and 85,427 tons to foreign territory. THE OLD AND THE NEW RICHMOND. Only a mile above Fairport, and about three miles west of Painesville, is the village of Richmond, also a most flourishing place during the late thirties, but now chiefly noted because of the presence of the great elevator and warehouse of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Company. The large shops of that company are situated nearly opposite, on the eastern side of Grand river. Richmond was at the height of its prosperity about 1835, when it had a population of 2,000 people or more. The chief causes for its decline were the hard times of 1837-8 on the building of the "Beaver" or cross-cut canal into a rival harbor, all of which tended to increase the growing importance of the 294 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE city of Cleveland. The large trade which had heretofore been diverted to Richmond from southern points was thereby absorbed by the larger city. In a certain fashion, however, its old-time standing has been revived through the interests of the Baltimore & Ohio railroad, which are so largely centered at this point. Through the immense elevator of this corporation nearly 200,000 bushels of grain pass every year, and in its gigantic warehouses are stored more than 110,000 tons of merchandise, consisting largely of shipments from Baltimore and from the ports of the Great Lakes. Important items in the receipts from southern territory are sugar, and canned goods. As stated, this immense amount of traffic of the south which comes over the Baltimore & Ohio road has partially replaced Richmond in its former position of importance as a commercial center. THOMAS RICHMOND. The village, which is considered a suburb of Painesville, derives its name from its founder, Thomas Richmond, a Vermonter, who in his early manhood was engaged in the salt trade with Canada. He was then located at Syracuse, New York. In the spring of 1832, having occasion to visit northern Ohio on business connected with this trade, he stopped at a tavern in the township of Perry, then in Geauga county, and learning that a likely piece of property was for sale up the river from Fairport, he traveled to Warren purchased it, afterwards returning to investigate the land which he had bought. He was so pleased with the location that he decided to settle at that point and soon afterward established himself in the forwarding and commission business, dealing largely in country produce. His eastern partner in this enterprise resided in New York city, and together they built several vessels to promote their business. Among their other investments was a small interest in the steamer "Rochester," which was built at Richmond. The founder of the town also owned stock in the bank of Geauga and was at one time a director of the same. The owners of the steamer "Rochester" having failed during the financial panic of 1837, Mr. Richmond was obliged to shoulder a debt of $35,000, all of which he paid, with interest, within the succeeding three years. In the fall of that year he was elected to the state legislature, was appointed a member of the committee on banking and Currency, and accomplished much to place the finances of Ohio upon a firm basis and allay the unrest and suffering caused by the had times. But the general depression in the business which settled upon the country had the effect upon the village of Richmond of diverting many of its citizens and most of its business to the village of Painesville, or more distant towns in the state. Many wooden houses were taken down and rebuilt at 'other points, some being loaded on schooners and taken to Wisconsin. The Presbyterian church, which was mainly built through private funds contributed by Mr. Richmond, was removed Painesville and occupied by the Methodist until the building of their brick edifice on the public park in 1875: This old Richmond church, which has certainly had its ups and downs, is now occupied as a commodious flat on Liberty street. In 1840 Mr. Richmond himself abandoned his home town and removed to the city of Cleveland, where, with his son, he again embarked in the vessel and commission business It is said that the younger Mr. Richmond, under his father's instructions, took the small schooner "Swallow," which they had previously purchased, up the Mississippi river, and finally launched her on Lake Superior—the first modern vessel to appear on the waters of that region of great copper mines. In 1847 the senior Mr. Richmond engaged in the forwarding and commission business in Chicago, afterward serving in the Illinois state legislature and building that historic vessel, the "Dean Richmond,' which he loaded with HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 295 wheat in 1856 and dispatched to Liverpool by way of the Great Lakes and the St. Lawrence river. This was the first voyage ever made by vessel between Chicago and that great English port. Mr. Richmond in later years becoming a close friend and confidential adviser of President Lincoln and died at an advanced age during the Civil war, being both universally respected and beloved. THE VILLAGE OF WILLOUGHBY. Willoughby, which is situated on the Chagrin river, eleven miles southwest of Painesville, is a village of about 2,000 people, the UNION SCHOOL, WILLOUGHBY. second place in importance in. Lake county. It was first called Charlton, then Chagrin for the river, and then Willoughby for Professor Willoughby, of New York, Who was professor in Willoughby Medical College. TWO FINE WIDOWS. Among the early settlers of Willoughby were John and Catharine Miller, and their son, Samuel, was the first white child of the town. He was but a few months old when his father was killed, and his mother raised corn, trapped raccoons and salted the meat, and kept herself alive. She one day killed a bear with an axe and salted that meat, too. This resourceful, industrious woman lived to see this pioneer son an old man. She herself was over one hundred when she died. Nancy Hall was another widow who did double duty. Left with a farm unpaid for, she met her indebtedness and educated her family. She was a very strong character, and early saw from her experience the injustice to women. Later, when women began the agitation which led to change of laws, she said : "Let them agitate. They will never get anything too good for women." Years afterward Martha H. Elwell, president of the Ohio Woman Suffrage Association, was a resident of this village. Willoughby is stationed on both the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern and the New York, Chicago and St. Louis railroads. It presents the appearance of a prosperous community, with well built stores, school houses and churches. Its only industry of importance is the American Clay Machinery Company, devoted to the manufacture of all kinds of machinery employed in the turning out of pottery and other clay wares. A branch of the Cleveland Trust Company affords its merchants and citizens with good banking facili- 296 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE ties. Its five churches are the Methodist, Presbyterian, Grace Episcopal, Church of Christ and the Immaculate Conception. The first named society has a substantial and beautiful building, which is shown in an accompanying illustration. It 'was erected in 1906, chiefly through the generosity and influence of Mrs. Julia Boyce, the twin sister of Julius French. ANDREWS INSTITUTE FOR GIRLS. Willoughby has a well conducted high school and grammar school and is. the site of the well known Andrews Institute for Girls. Mr. and Mrs. Wallace C. Andrews perished together April 7, 1899, when their beautiful home on East Sixty-seventh street, New York City, was destroyed by fire. At the same time the wife of G. C. St. John and his children lost their lives. Out of that happy household only one person survived and that was Mr. St. John, who was not at home at the time. Mrs. Margaret M. St. John Andrews and her three brothers were born at Willoughby at the old homestead, which is now occupied, temporarily, by the Andrews Institute for girls. Mr. St. John is the only surviving child of this family and this old house, which was built by his grandfather, Thomas Card, was inherited by his mother, then by his sister, Mrs. Andrews, and came to him by will as well as by inheritance. The house was remodeled in 1872 by Mrs. Andrews' father and Mr. St. John now owns it and offered its use to the institute without charge, because he does not think it wise to put up expensive buildings for the school until the plan has been tried out. He is one of the directors of the school, as provided by will, and is president of the board. women have really more endurance than but most physicians do not believe this to true. In the litigation in regard to this will a very delicate question arose as to whether Mr. and Mrs. Andrews died first. In many states where husband and wife die at the same time in accident, the law provides that the estate belongs to the husband because men, being stronger, would naturedly live longer than women under the circumstances. This provision of law has been fought in many states on the ground that Mr. and Mrs. Andrews made wills dated November 12, 1891. By his will, Mr. Andrews first provided for certain relatives to the aggregate amount of $520,000. The residue of his estate he left in trust for his wife to receive the income during her life, and upon her death he gave the principal to an institution at Willoughby, Ohio, which he directed his executors to incorporate under the laws of Ohio. The fifth paragraph of the will prescribes the functions and conditions of this institution, to wit :— "I direct my executor and executrix, as soon as practicable after my decease and during the lives of my said wife and her said brother or the life of the longest liver of them, to procure under the laws of the state of Ohio, an incorporation to be formed with the proper powers, for the purpose of establishing an institution on the farm known as the Williams Farm, formerly owned by me and now owned by my wife, fronting on Erie street, in the town of Willoughby, Lake county, Ohio, or if said farm be for any cause not available, then on other suitable premises in the said town of Willoughby, for the free education of girls and for their support in proper cases during education, with a special view toward rendering them self-supporting. "Said institution shall contain, among others, a Sewing Department, Cooking Department, Designing Department and Departments in Phonography and Typewriting, and other useful work that would afford the pupils employment in life, including such new discoveries and inventions as may be made from time to time tending to enlarge the opportunities for useful and honorable employment for women, and such as will aid them in obtaining honorable and independent positions in life. Such school to be open only to girls between the ages of ten and sixteen, both inclusive. HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 297 "Not exceeding one-tenth of the sum devoted to the said institution by the fourth paragraph hereof may be used for the erection of suitable buildings therefor on the said farm, or in the contingency above specified, for the purchase of suitable premises in said town and the erection of such buildings thereon, and the income of the remaining nine-tenths shall be. devoted to the support and maintenance of said institution. "If, when the said sum shall be received by the said corporation, the one-tenth thereof shall not, in the judgment of the directors, be sufficient for such erection or such purchase and erection, as the case may be, the whole sum may, in their discretion, be allowed to accumulate until the one-tenth thereof with its accumulation shall be so sufficient, when such one-tenth may be used therefor, while the income of the remaining nine-tenths of the said sum and accumulations shall be devoted to the support and maintenance of said institution. "The charter of the said corporation shall also provide, if and so far as may be consistent with law and practicable, for the management of the said corporation by a board of five directors, to consist of the governor for the time being of the state of Ohio, the member of congress for the time being for the congressional district embracing the said town of Willoughby, the treasurer for the time being of the said county of Lake, the mayor for the time being of Willoughby, and the said Gamaliel C. St. John, and for the choice of a resident of Willoughby by the said governor as successor to the said St. John, as often as the fifth place shall become or be vacant." The eighth clause of the will mentions the Smithsonian Institution as an alternative residuary legatee, under the conditions specified in the clause, to wit :—"In case my intention with respect to the said institution for girls shall because of illegality fail or become impossible of realization, I then devise and bequeath the sum intended' for it to the Smithsonian Institution at Washington, District of Columbia, to be devoted to the purposes for which it was established." Mrs. Andrews, by her will, devised No. 2 East Sixty-seventh street and No. 854. Fifth avenue in the city of New York, and the socalled Williams Farm in Willoughby, to her husband and in case he did not survive her, she directed that they should fall into his residuary estate for the purposes of the institution which he directed to be formed, which she in her will approved. On March 19, 1902, the Ohio legislature passed an act enabling the incorporation of institutions similar to that provided for in the will of Mr. Andrews, and on May 13, 1902, Mr. St. John caused The Andrews Institute for Girls to be incorporated. Certain relatives whom he had not remembered in his will, certain other relatives (not including his sisters, Mrs. Lury Ann Moore and Mrs. Phoebe R. Moore) and the Smithsonian Institution contested the right of The Andrews Institute for Girls to the residuary estate. The chief claims of the relatives were : First, that under a statute of New York (which provides, among other things, that a man having a wife shall not will more than half his property after payment of debts to charitable or educational purposes) Mr. Andrews at the time of his death had a wife, and so they were entitled to half its residuary estate and secondly, that as The Andrews Institute for Girls was not incorporated until more than three years after his death, they were entitled to the income that accrued during those three years. The Smithsonian Institution sustained in part the first claim of the relatives, but made the further highly technical claim that because the whole residue could not go to The Andrews institute for Girls, none of it could ; the primary purpose of the testator had become impossible of realization, and the whole residue must go to it (Smithsonian Institution). The courts found that it was impossible to decide whether Mr. or Mrs. Andrews died first, but that the New York statute referred to 298 - HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE did not apply, being applicable only to a case where it was shown, that a wife survived the testator. As a final result, the courts held that certain of the relatives were entitled to a portion of the three years' income ; that The Andrews Institute for Girls was entitled to all the rest of the residuary estate, and that the Smithsonian Institution had no interest in the estate. The Smithsonian Institution carried the case, upon a purely technical claim, from the court of appeals of New York to the United States supreme court, but the latter court dismissed the writ of error as without merit. The decision of the New York court of appeals was made in February, 1908, and that of the United States supreme court in May, 1909. As showing the financial status of this remarkable case which promises to result in the founding of such a noble charity, Mr. St. John presents the following : Net institute assets from both estates $2,054,856 Legacies paid 700,000 Net assets at time of Mr. and MrsAndrews' death $1,354,856 Cash, securities and real estate turned over to the institute $3,720,985 Net gain to institute during St John administration $2,366,129 This net gain does not take into account the expenses of administration, nor attorneys' fees, etc., attending the. ten long years of litigation. To the $3,720,985 which the school has already received, there will probably be added still $50,000 to $60,000 in cash, making a total of about $3,780,985 which the school will have to continue business with. THE WILLOUGHBY INDEPENDENT. The Willoughby Independent, the only newspaper of the place, was established in April, 1879, by J. H. Merrill, who became resident of Lake county in 1852, and died at Painesville in June, 1900. He was an English printer, who settled at Kirtland at an early date and there engaged in job printing for a number of years, afterward entering the newspaper business at Painesville. He remained in the latter city until he located at Willoughby and established the Independent in 1879. In 1895 he formed a partnership with his son, F. H. Merrill. Since the death of the father another son, G. C. Merrill, has become associated in the business, which is now conducted under the name of J. H. Merrill's Sons. As has been incidentally mentioned, the first house erected in Willoughby township and probably in the county, was that built by Charles Parker in 1796, while engaged in the survey of this portion of the Western Reserve Although Parker became a permanent settler in 1802, several had located their homes in the township during the fall of 1799, among these being David Abbott, Peter French, Jacob West, Ebenezer Smith and Elisha Graham. Mr. Abbott built the first grist mill on the site of the Willoughby mills, and Mr. Smith is said to have been the first. man to receive a regular deed for his land from the Connecticut and Company. The village and township were. originally called Chagrin, but in 1834 adopted the present name in honor of Professor Willoughby, of Herkimer county, New York. BURNING OF THE STEAMER GRTFFITH. A tragic event which horrified the people of the Western Reserve was the burning of the steamer "Griffith" in Lake Erie, off of what is now known as Willoughbeach. This casualty occurred at four o'clock in the morning of June 17, 1850, and of the 320 passengers aboard, only 87 escaped with their lives. There have been many conflicting stories as to the exact location of the fire many claiming that it occurred off Fairport HISTORY OF THE WESTERN RESERVE - 299 instead of Willoughbeach, but the story told by one of those who assisted in the rescue of persons from the ill-fated bark seems to definitely settle the question in favor of Willough beach. With this explanation and introduction, the following letter is given as published in the Painesville Telegraph-Republican of June 9, 1909 : "The steamer Griffith was burned off Willoughbeach (or where Willoughbeach is now located) June 17, 1850, at 4 o'clock in the morning. The boat was afire when it came to Fairport. Two men, a Mr. Woodin, of Hambden, and Hiram Knapp, of Munson, were on the boat, and had paid their fare to Cleveland. Woodin smelled smoke and called the mate's attention to it. The mate cursed him and called him all the names he could lay his tongue to. He told Woodin that he would run the boat to Cleveland and put out the fire, or he would run her to h____ll. I think he came as near running her to the latter place as he could in this world. Woodin told me that he could have extinguished the fire in ten minutes by the scuttling of the boat. He state& that the mate . was drunk or the disaster would never have happened. The lake was smooth at the time; the wind was from the south and everyone of the 320 passengers aboard might have ben saved, according to this Mr. Munson. As it was only eighty-seven were saved. "The first saved was a. girl of eighteen. She swam from the bar with boom. She could not stand up when she reached shore and I ran a pole out to her and 'pulled her to safety. She went West, got married, raised a family and had a daughter that afterwards married a Newburg. man. After her husband died she came to live with this daughter. She died only a few years ago in Newburg, and I found out afterwards that a few days before she died she expressed the wish that she could have seen the man that pulled her out of the water. If I had known of this at the time, I would surely have gone to her. "The second person saved was a boy of seven. When we brought him ashore we thought he was dead, but Captain Kennedy came down the bank and, seeing the boy's. lips move, grabbed him by the heels and shook him, and the water came out of his stomach and he revived quickly. Later the boy came down to the beach and picked out his dead father and mother. He told Captain Kennedy that his mother had a lot of money quilted in her petticoat, and $500 was recovered from her body. The, captain took charge of the boy and the money. When he was twenty-one the boy was given the money and interest, and I think Mr. Kennedy deserves much credit. "When the boat turned towards shore the wind was in the south and the flames drove the people overboard. After the boat had been burning awhile the covers of the wheels lopped off each side. We saw two little children hanging on one of them. I went out in my boat and got these children. I had to unclinch their little hands to get them off. I saw the captain throw his wife and three children and his wife's mother overboard and jump after them. They never came up and were not seen again until they were washed ashore later. One young man had $1,800 in a bag. He threw the bag overboard and jumped after it. He did not get the money. The mate got it and came ashore with it. When the owner came ashore he opened the bag and gave the mate $100. The mate got drunk on the $100, and if we had had the testimony then of Mr. Munson and Mr. Knapp he would have been sent up for manslaughter. "One man jumped overboard and caught a big stick. He swam out in the lake and thought he was coming to shore. He finally reached shore. A fleshy man jumped overboard and went under the rear of the boat and climbed up the rudder chains. He perched there until the rest were drowned and then he swam ashore. An Englishman was pulled