CHAPTER XIX

EARLY RECOLLECTIONS OF VAN WERT BY ANDREW J. GLEASON

Life Among the Pioneers—The Van Wert of 60 Years Ago Described—Stories and Incidents of the Early Days—General Muster—Indians as Frequent Visitors—Early Teachers, Doctors and Lawyers—The Early Industries—Schools and Churches—Camp Meetings—Odd and Notorious Characters.

My earliest impressions of Van Wert date back to the autumn of 1839, when about three years of age. A little more than two years before my parents had removed from Western New York to the unbroken wilds of southwest Pleasant township, where my father, Joseph Gleason, entered a quarter section of land, built a log cabin of sufficient size to shelter his family of five, of whom I was the youngest, and cleared a small farm of about 20 acres and enclosed it with rail and brush fences. The land being heavily timbered, the clearing of the giants of the forest to fit it for cultivation meant a great many sturdy blows of axe and maul, and when at the election held in October, 1839, my father was chosen county recorder he was ready to exchange the axe and the plowshare for the pen. He at once entered upon the duties of his office, which at that time, however, were not onerous, and had to be combined with hotel-keeping and officiating as jusitice of the peace to provide a sufficient income for the needs of a growing family. He was also appointed an associate judge of the Court of Common Pleas for Van Wert County for a term.

He bought for his new home a log cabin of a story and a half elevation with a stoop in front, on the site now occupied by the Agler art gallery, a wing being extended back for a dining room and a kitchen, the latter room containing a huge fireplace, which served both as a heater and as a cooking place. While there was a cook stove set up in the dining room, the principal culinary work was done at the kitchen fireplace, which was built of logs and sticks with a covering of clay, the hearth being made solely of clay, dried and baked hard and smooth. An iron crane swung across over the fire, upon which the pots and kettles were hung by means of hooks, while baking was done on the hearth in a tin reflection oven, or in a Dutch oven, which was a flat-bottomed kettle standing on three legs over a bed of coals, the cover being flanged deeply to hold coals also. Modern chefs would laugh at these primitive utensils, but when I recall the exquisite flavors of the pumpkin pies, gingerbread and custards turned out of those rude ovens, not forgetting the roasted wild turkeys and saddles of venison that were spitted and done brown over an ample bed of glowing hard-

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wood coals, comparisons become odious indeed.

At that time the future city contained hardly a dozen cabins, which were mostly built of round, unhewn logs with most of the bark left on, two exceptions to this rule being a two-story, hewed-log tavern on the northeast corner of Main and Washington streets, owned and kept by Samuel M. Clark (father of William A. and the late John W. and James Clark) and to the east of this a one-story store building about 16 by 20 feet, which was enclosed and covered with split clapboards, being the first frame house erected.

A double one-story log cabin stood across the alley back of the Conant Block, which served the purpose of a Court House when session were held, and a schoolhouse, shoe shop, etc., at other times, the late Edward R. Wells, then county clerk, teaching school in it when court was not in session and making and repairing boots and shoes at odd times. To him I went for my first winter schooling at a very tender age, but old enough to be a source of trouble a plenty without doubt. One incident often recalled by old schoolmates naturally presents itself more prominently to my mind than others, as I was a central figure. There was a family living in the northern suburbs whose head was Lewis Shultz, whose children attended the school, the eldest being a stout, awkward, romping girl named Katie. I suspect Katie had a pretty good time at school, as her shrill laugh or giggle was heard frequently and almost invariably made me laugh "out loud." One day the teacher called me up before the school and asked the cause of my mirth. With quivering lips and watery eyes, I stammered forth, "I-I-fot I heered a chip-munk, b-but I guess it was K-Katie Stultz a squealin." This threw the whole school into convulsions, and it didnet help to restore order, when the teacher refusing to accept my excuse sentenced me to "rassel" with John Clark, who nearly a six-footer stood before the fireplace with slate in hand cyphering. Fie was so tall that I could easily put my arms around his leg without stooping, and in the "tug-of-war" that ensued it was hard to tell which pupil was punished the most. Notwithstanding these boyish indiscretions, I somehow managed to remain on good terms with my teacher, and when out of school I often loafed around his shoe bench plying him with questions until he would sometimes lose all patience and send me about my business.

Mr. Wells being for some time one of our regular boarders, it is, not strange that he should fall a victim to the charms of a young woman from Hardin County, Sally Thorn, who was my mother's most efficient helper and lifelong friend, and who later became his wife. Two of Miss Thorn's brothers, Benjamin and Jacob, boarded with us, working at the carpenters' trade about the village most of the time and when not thus engaged would be cutting wood for the tavern. Many .were the pranks these mischievous brothers would play on their sister and her beau, when they sat before the capacious kitchen fire on cold winter nights, trying to freeze them out in various ways. Once they provided a supply of wood out of a green, wild grapevine and some green willow, which could not be induced to burn by any amount of coaxing. Another time when the lovers were basking before a moderately good fire, a door was suddenly opened and two wicked brothers rushed in, each with a bucket of water which they deposited on the fire, completely squelching it, which speedily put an end to the young couple's sparking bee for that night. Finally a wedding put an end to the mischief and the newly married couple built a home near the southwest corner of Jackson and Washing-

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ton streets, which they occupied until the pressure of business demands induced them to choose another site.

In addition to the buildings already mentioned, at the time my father came to town a small, log blacksmith shop stood in the rear of the Clark tavern, which shop was kept by the late John Kesler (who of comparatively late years had a shop on the northeast corner of Main and Wayne streets), while near the northwest corner of Washington and Jackson streets stood a cabin owned by William Caton —also on the same corner was a log building used as a schoolhouse at different times.

On East Main street, where the Rump Building stands was a two-story double log building erected by Robert Gilliland, one end being used as a store and the other part for dwelling purposes. There was also a cabin on the east side of South Walnut street, which was for a time occupied by a Rev. Alderman, the same N-ho, if I remember rightly, many years later occupied the Methodist Episcopal Church pulpit of Van Wert. Five or six roads (or trails) afforded avenues of travel into and through the village, chief among which was the Bucyrus and Fort Wayne State road, following a gravel ridge nearly all the way from one terminal to the other ; others were the Greenville, Jennings, Defiance, Willshire and Shanesville roads, which were mere wood paths wide enough for a wagon track, and usually following streams or ridges of the highest land, as being better adapted for natural highways. As settlers were coming in rapidly, these roads were surveyed and widened out, bridges, built across streams, and corduroy or pole roads laid across low ground. Among the early surveyors, I remember John F. Dodds and Cyrenius Elliott well, both of whom I think were from Dayton. While a resident of Van Wert, Mr. Dodds was bereft of his wife, whose grave was the first one opened in the old Van Wert Cemetery.

James Graves and Samuel M. Clark conducted the two taverns previous to our advent, and when court was in session both hostelries were crowded to their utmost limit. Another time for large patronage was training day or general muster, when the militia, comprising all the able-bodied men between 18 and 45 years of age in the county, would assemble to drill under Captain Marks, equipped generally with corn stalks or hoe handles in lieu of muskets. At general muster General Starbuck, mounted upon fiery charger and resplendent in brass buttons and epaulets, directed the evolutions, impressing us youthful beholders greatly and when the Kear Drum Corps from Willshire beat the "long roll" or played "Nancy Dawson" for the march, we simply went wild with excitement and enthusiasm. Once in a while, too, some of the turbulent class, who never failed to attend such functions, got to fighting and shed gore, but the officers were usually on hand to suppress all disorders, and generally the time passed so pleasantly that all looked forward eagerly to the next training. Twenty years afterward many of us were to see the real thing on a much larger scale on Southern battlefields, some to bleed and others to die for our country. Few went to the Mexican War from Van Wert, the quota for Ohio being filled from other localities and the Van Wert contingent only got as far as Cincinnati, where the volunteers learned they were not needed. Few of the noted "bruisers," however, showed any disposition to volunteer; those who started for the war were generally of the law-abiding class, while the former class remained at home to the disgust of their well-disposed neighbors.

My father had been elected justice of the peace soon after he came to the county in 1837,

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and held the office continuously until he was succeeded by O. W. Rose about the year 1850. In 1840 he was elected associate judge for a term of seven years. Other associates judges that I recall were John Tumbleson, of Pleasant township, and Judges Baird and Tilden, of the eastern part of the county. Patrick G. Goode was presiding judge for many years, while the early pioneer lawyers were "Count" Coffinberry, of Lima, James M. Barr and Richard C. Spears, of Van Wert, and other greater or lesser lights of the law. Spears, who was the father of John R. Spears, of more or less fame as a press correspondent and writer, was notoriously lazy, and was said to be mainly supported by an aunt in the East, who was wealthy. He, however, became a fairly good surveyor as well as an expert angler, taking his greatest enjoyment in the latter pastime, and was noted as the most successful fisherman that haunted the banks of Town Creek. His pole was the shiniest and straightest young hickory to be found in the surrounding forest, being selected in the springtime when easily stripped of the bark and was the envy of all his rivals, as he was able to stand on the bank and cast a line far beyond his competitors' best efforts, and land the biggest catfish of any of them. In those days the numerous deep holes along the creek yielded fair specimens of the finny tribe, some weighing several pounds. The largest, however, were caught with seines. Spears, however, never was known to resort to seining, he being a genuine disciple of Izaak Walton; he could sit for hours in silence with never a nibble, occasionally withdrawing his tackle to renew the bait, and meditating upon the perversity of fish-kind. He was said to be well read in law and to be a good adviser in legal complications, but failed sadly when attempting to make a plea before judge or jury. Had he possessed the stamina requisite for the bench,he might have filled a judicial chair, but, as he was often heard to say, he was too much of a "damphool." He filled for a time the offices of prosecuting attorney and county surveyor, but abler men crowded him out. His family finally became separated and after a precarious struggle for a living as a book agent he finally ended his days in the County Infirmary, deserted by all of his kindred.

When the county seat was removed from Willshire to Van Wert, each of the officers had little difficulty in transporting all his books and papers in a pair of saddle-bags at most, and I have heard my father say, that having no horse or saddle-bags, he easily carried on foot for the entire 16 miles the effects of the recorder's office, wrapped in a bandana handkerchief.     .

Until the building of the first frame Court House in 1840, the offices were scattered all over the village, and even later, while he held office, my father as a matter of convenience kept the county records at his home, where his elder children soon learned to help him materially in the work.

E. R. Wells did not long enjoy the monopoly of the cobbler's trade in the village, and probably did not have any regrets when Isaac Daugherty, a brother of Mrs. Samuel M. Clark, with his mother came to town and opened a shop near the Clark tavern. Being a skillful artisan, Mr. Daugherty soon got the most of the trade, although Jack Roach also worked some at the trade, dividing his time between that and shingle making. Daugherty built a cabin on Jackson street near where the Pennsylvania Depot now is, where he lived with his, mother until he married Lydia McDonald some years later. As shoemaking did not occupy his time fully, he was elected constable and filled that office several years satisfactorily. I remember one occasion, when he was worsted by Bill Myers,

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a thievish character, whom the constable had arrested some three miles south of Van Wert. When crossing the creek near the present City Hall, his prisoner caught him off his guard, dealt him a blow and "skedaddled" to parts unknown, although Daugherty's cries for help aroused the whole populace, who joined in a hot pursuit of the culprit. Bill was afterward apprehended and fined or imprisoned, which probably taught him that the way of the transgressor was a hard one, and he married and settled down to earn a living, dying at rather an early age and leaving a wife to support herself and four children at the wash tub.

A log jail was built the same year that the Court House was erected, the logs being squared to fit tightly together, while small, grated windows afforded ventilation and light. A few years later, a two-story frame was added for a sheriff's residence, and the jail served as calaboose also for the village, so that it was seldom without an occupant.

About the most notorious "bruiser" and all-round tough in the community was Sam Maddox, who lived west of town a few miles He never was known to neglect an opportunity to fill his hide with "bug juice" when making his periodical visits in town, and he seldom left without a fight or two. On one occasion he came to town singing some couplets he had composed reflecting upon a neighbor, who was accused of appropriating and slaughtering hogs with another man's mark on them, I recall this much

"Old Solomon Scissors' mouth didn't mean to stay, But he stole so many hogs, he couldn't get away." "Big Spencer Pouchfoot, the young lazy whelp, Had nothing to do but go to the woods and help."

Sam had a brother Peter, who was decidedly the worst stammerer or stutterer I ever heard, and to witness the poor fellow's attempts to make himself understood was both amusing and pathetic. He seldom was able to speak an intelligent word until he had nodded his head and stamped his foot awhile, meanwhile trying all the consonants of the alphabet one after the other before he could. determine which one he wanted. When he finally blurted out a word, he had the same struggle to speak the next, so that only an expert linguist could understand his gibberish at all.

Two strikingly familiar figures were the brothers Joshua and Isaiah Shaffer, of temporary residence in early Van Wert, where they first worked at repairing wagons. Soon tiring of that, they took up wild land in Hoaglin township. They were twins, I think, or as near alike as twins, both being of the same build, of medium height, very dark, and each wearing a full beard, black as jet, as were their long, unkempt locks. I think they farmed in partnership, their team consisting of a yoke of black bulls, which were broken to ride; hence it was quite a common sight to see the Shaffer brothers ride into the village bullback, as unconcerned as you please, their slouch hats turned up fore and aft most comically. Like most of their class, the Shaffer brothers only remained a few years in the vicinity of Van Wert. Having cleared a few acres, thus making their holdings more desirable than wild land, they sold out for enough to take them and their families farther West, where the same routine was probably followed, they being virtually members of the advance guard >f the army of civilization which was gradually taking . the place of the aboriginal tribes of the forest.

In those days Indians of the Wyandot tribe frequently visited the village, bringing with them furs and pelts of wild animals secured in the deep forest everywhere sur-

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rounding the new county seat. Their peltries found a ready sale in the stores at fixed market prices, so that in the then prevailing scarcity of money furs became a medium of exchange to a considerable extent. The Wyandots, who came from the Sandusky Plains in Wyandot and Crawford counties, were as a rule civil and peaceable, but care had to be exercised in selling them intoxicants or trouble was sure to arise. At one of their camps a few miles east of town an Indian was killed in a drunken fight and his grave at the roadside enclosed with a rail pen was an object of curiosity for years. The murderer was brought to town and confined in the log jail for a lengthy period. As he became acquainted with the people, he became quite popular, was allowed considerable liberty outside, often taking part in athletic games and never attempted to escape. When his tribe went westward, seeking better hunting grounds, the prisoner was allowed to go with his people to the far West and it is hoped became a good Indian eventually. In cold weather these Indians were wont to ask the privilege of sleeping in my father's kitchen, wrapped in their blankets before the large fireplace. These requests were usually granted. After disposing of their peltries, the Indians would invest the proceeds mostly in provisions and clothing but often bought knicknacks that struck their fancy, and one of my boyish impressions was that of two stalwart bucks, stalking along the village street, each with a boy's jew's-harp trying to their great delight to invoke melodious strains. Indian boys frequently accompanied the hunting parties and with their bows and arrows would often shoot for coins placed on edge a rod or two distant, thus exciting us village lads until it became our highest ambition to possess a bow and arrow and emulate their feats. In mild weather their wigwams were pitched wherever night found them, one favorite camping ground being not far from a famous spring near the present residence of P. B. Cupp. This spring was probably known to the Indians for ages before our arrival and when discovered by the white pioneers was cunningly concealed with a covering of bark. For a considerable time it furnished the early settlers their principal water supply, and was used until the construction of the Jackson street sewer tapped its source, when the fountain dried up forever.

Good wells, however, in those early days were easily dug anywhere along the Sugar Ridge only a few feet in depth. Off the ridge it was necessary to dig the wells deeper, but rarely was it necessary to go more than 40 feet and seldom more than 20, to obtain a good supply of water. Pumps were made of logs bored in sections of convenient length and joined together, the most noted pump-makers being Peter and John Frysinger, of Willshire township. A majority of the wells were fitted with a pole and sweep or a windlass to draw the water. Bricks were seldom used for walling wells, a frame curb, surrounded with puncheons, all being split out of trees in proper form, being the most common method of preventing the wells from caving in, besides furnishing a convenient mode of descent when necessary to enter the well.

Thomas R. Mott conducted the first general store, I think, in Robert Gilliland's log building, east of Market street. Mott was very tall and thin and a general favorite with all. His brother Samuel, of St. Marys, often visited him here, coming as a lawyer to attend court. He always came with his pockets full of peanuts for the rising generation, and with them at least became no less popular than his

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brother Tom. A son of his of the same name became colonel of an Ohio regiment in the War of the Rebellion, I believe.

Tom Mott only remained in the village a few years when he sold, I believe, to Walter Buckingham, who built where the Davies Block now stands and conducted a general store for many years.

A few rods to the eastward of Buckingham's store, where the Hotel Marsh now stands, an ancient Indian mound was discovered, containing the bones of many warriors, who, perhaps, had fallen in battle long before, as the bones were crumbling to dust when unearthed. An Indian grave, enclosed with logs, was visible on the west side of the creek between the Newcomer and Gleason lots for several years, and 1 do not remember that it was ever opened. Many arrowheads, stone axes and knives, gun flints, etc., could be picked up on the village site, showing that it had at least been a favorite resort for Indians, if not a village at some time in the distant past.

My father became acquainted with quite a number of the Wyandot tribe and generally found them honorable and trustworthy, but, as I have said before, if allowed liquor to more than a very moderate extent they became devils incarnate, as many of their white brethren do at the present day. In those days liquors was sold at nearly all hotel bars, exclusively under a license system, but while, during many years of hotel-keeping, my father sold hundreds of barrels over the counter, there was seldom a case of intoxication through his fault. He rarely tasted it himself and did not allow his family to do so. The Indians knew better than to ask "Joe" for a second dram.

One of the conspicuous characters often seen on our village streets was John Heath, then a man of declining age but quite vigorous withal, who lived near the Mercer County line. He was seldom known in the village by his own name, being called "Gunsmith" by old and young, although he was no mechanic whatever. Being of a jovial, devil-may-care disposition, he became a great favorite in the village, and always made everybody he met as good natured as himself. I remember seeing him often stand at the bar telling his stories with his glass of whiskey untouched before him (unless some of the bystanders managed to inveigle him out of it, which was a not unusual incident), keeping his audience in a roar with his odd expressions and grimances. He had a fashion of licking his lips with his tongue that was very comical when accompanied by sundry winks as he made some droll remark. When at home, however, it was said he became as dignified as any gentleman of the old school. A relative of mine once by invitation accompanied him home after one of his periodical visits, which usually lasted several days. On the way home he was full of his jokes as usual, pointing out all interesting objects on the way, each of which had a story connected with it. When nearing home, as they came in sight of the louse, my uncle remarked, "So there is where `Gunsmith" lives, it it?" Straightening himself up, with the greatest dignity his companion replied, "No sir. That is the residence of Mr. John Heath." And from that moment all levity was banished as long as my uncle remained, which was several days, no one preliming to call him "Gunsmith" about home, .and none could surpass in decorum "Mr. John death." But the next time he visited the county seat and as long afterward as he continued his visits, all dignity and decorum were or the nonce laid aside and he was "Gunsmith" gain, as full of pranks as any overgrown boy.

Outside the village limits the most desir-

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able land lay along the Bucyrus and Fort Wayne road, as it had the best natural drainage, which in those days was a great desideratum ; hence from Lacy's on the Little Auglaize to Stevenson's on Flat Rock, there was almost a continuous chain of improvements, which soon helped greatly to supply the needs of the villagers, most of whom also cultivated more or less land within and adjacent to the corporate limits, so that the community soon became largely self-sustaining and necessities at least quite moderate in price.

Corn was no less a king in those days than at present, being much easier of cultivation than wheat for primitive farmers, and the returns less disappointing generally. The wheat that was grown had to be taken to distant mills for manufacture into flour, while the corn was frequently ground in hand-mills on the farm or in horse-power mills of very rude and cheap construction.

Van Wert's first industrial venture was a water saw and grist-mill erected by Samuel M. Clark on a site now partly covered by the Cincinnati Northern Railroad shops, the power being obtained by throwing a dam across the creek just below the site of the old spoke factory, from which dam a ditch or race was constructed across the bend of the creek to a basin near the mill site. But the venture was not a success owing to the insufficient water supply. Then steam power was tried, which was also a failure. Clark invested all of his means, which were at most limited, without getting much return, so he gave up the struggle when he saw financial ruin inevitable.

A few years later Luke D. Stage, from Seneca County, bought a farm a half mile below and again dammed the "Jordan." His success, however, was no better than Clark's. It was said that when Stage (who was somewhat given to profanity) was ruined by hisdam, he spelled it by adding an "n." There was one good result, however: the mill dam made for several seasons a capital fishing and swimming pond for the town boys, which was highly appreciated by them at their Saturday vacations, and the backwater extending to the village limits afforded good skating in the winter season for all.

The first building erected for school purposes was built about the year 1842 on a lot adjoining the Wayne Hotel on the east and was constructed of hewn logs with a single room about 20 feet square. The floor and ceiling were of matched lumber and altogether it was as well planned for comfort and convenience as such a building could be. Long desks extended on three sides, behind which the more advanced pupils were seated, while benches in front of the desks provided seats for the younger one and recitation benches for classes. Water was carried in buckets from the village spring not far distant and only a few additional steps were necessary to reach a never-failing supply of willows along the creek, bottom, from which "rods of correction" were freely drawn. Among the earlier teachers, some of them teaching several terms, were William McDonald, J. C. Parkinson, George Strother, Rhoda Parkinson and Caleb Roberts, to alt of whom the writer went in turn. This-building served the village well until increasing population demanded greater facilities for education and resulted in the building of two frame two-story schoolhouses at opposite ends of town en Harrison and Lynn streets, respectively. Prior to the erection of the East and West school buildings, however, a west side school was conducted one or two winters in a vacant log building between Shannon and Wall streets, north of Jackson, the creek being the dividing line east and west. This school was taught by William McDonald and was little

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inferior in attendance to J. C: Parkinson's, east of the creek, being made up partly of children from the country nearby, many of whom were nearly grown.

A good natured rivalry naturally existed between the East and West schools, and spelling schools in one or the other sub-disdricts were of frequent occurrence, as well as athletic contests. One winter in particular, being rather open, was attended with a heavy snowfall, of which the West side "Canadians" took advantage by constructing a snow fort about midway between the two schoolhouses on their side of the creek, and then challenged the "Yankees" to come and take it. The creek being low was frozen over so that crossing could be effected easily and the challenge was promptly accepted, a neon hour being agreed upon as a suitable time when the snow could be easily molded into balls. Both sides prepared a goodly supply of ammunition and lunch being over a signal was given for the assault. As I remember we "Yankees" were too much for the "Canucks" and took the fort, although not without stubborn resistance from our whilom foes, several black eyes and bruised noses attesting the valor of both sides, when school was called at the close of the battle.

In those days as well as the present it was an unwritten law of schools generally that at least one day's vacation should be had when Christmas fell on a school day, but it was not always observed, unless by some hook or crook the teacher could be circumvented. The usual device resorted to both in town and country was that of "barring out the school-master," which was often effectual in keeping him out of the schoolhouse so that he had to consent to the vacation. Such an attempt was made by some of the older pupils of Parkinson's school, when Christmas came and it was

announced that there would be no vacation. Early on Christmas morning, the key having been secured previously, a vigorous hammering was heard at the schoolhouse, and the smaller pupils who were not in the plot were amazed upon reaching the building to find the door locked and the windows fastened down securely. When the teacher appeared, he demanded admittance, which was refused; whereupon, being a resolute man, he went to a neighboring workshop and securing a chisel soon opened a window and gaining admission compelled the garrison to surrender. A neighbor who remonstrated was told to go about his business, and at one time the quarrel nearly resulted in blows, the teacher throwing off his coat in such haste that he tore it nearly in twain. But peace finally prevailed and the teacher, having gained ingress, called the school to order and all was forgiven and apparently forgotten. To restore good feeling, a few pounds of candy were sent for, and acted as a wonderful panacea to our feelings at being deprived of the Christmas holiday.

On such occasions as Christmas much license was taken by Young America that would not be thought of now-a-days. No sooner than the first "peep o' day" appeared, than, stockings having been duly invoiced as to their contents, notes were compared with neighboring urchins. After a goodly number had congregated, all fell into line fora Christmas raid through the village, visiting every house, which in those days were not numerous, and clamoring for Christmas gifts, until capitulation was made or a point. blank refusal received, which was rare indeed. On one raid of that description, we met the village doctor (Lenox), who being a good deal of a wag took the crowd into Cook's grocery and ordered that they be given all the cider they wanted. As the cider was well fermented, the result was quite a number

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of boozy kids who never forgot that Christmas treat.

Physicians of that early period were "few and far between" and instead of the modern automobiles or storm-proof phaetons, now so common, they were forced to ride horseback in making distant calls, which frequently took them to all parts of the county and to almost inaccessible places. Dr. Philip John Hines was par excellence the pioneer of his profession and must have had wonderful vitality to endure the hardships as long as he did. I remember that at one time it was thought he would not long survive, but a period of rest and recuperation soon restored him. Dr. John Lenox then came from Sidney and formed a partnership with Dr. Hines and both had plenty to do, Lenox finally breaking down completely, and going to an untimely grave as a result of the professional hardships he underwent. In those early days doctors were not as rumerous as now, and not all who practiced were able to show their diplomas, and would properly be called "quacks."

About the year 1842 a man by the name of John F. Gabby arrived in the village, and being a tanner by trade started a tanyard, about where is now the Anderson piano factory, constructing several vats ; but he failed to make a success of the undertaking and was forced to abandon the business, moving away soon afterward. The next venture of the kind was made by Thomas Uncapher, who was the owner of a considerable tract of land outside the present city limits at the intersection of the Willshire and Rockford roads. It was conducted by Him a number of years until his death. About 1856 Brittson & Ginter established a tannery where is now Rupright's tile and hay yard, and soon afterward Clippenger & McKim started one on South Walnut street. Both did considerable business, but were finally abandoned, as outside competition became much too strong.

The first steam sawmill in Van Wert was built by William Parkinson about 1845 west of the old Van Wert cemetery on the lot occupied now by W. M. Smith's residence. A year or two later Joseph Gleason and Thomas R. Kear built one on West Jackson street, near the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne & Chicago Railway bridge, to which was later added a grist-mill, when Kear became owner, but lack of capital prevented its completion and he sold it to Dr. William Smith, who later formed a partnership with William Gaskill and for a few years operated both industries. The Ziegler brothers next built a sawmill north of the old Van Wert Lumber Company's plant.

The first brickyard was established by Samuel M. Clark where now stands the Cincinnati Northern shops, but it was only operated two or three years, owing to the difficulty of getting the right kind of clay for the purpose. The next yard was started by Jacob C. Parkinson on South Walnut street, which supplied brick for the greater part of the county for several years, after which Thomas L. Lehew started one near the Oil Well Supply Company's sheds on Center street, afterward removing to South Shannon street, and later to a site south of the Fair Grounds, where Rupright

Brothers bought and continued the business. A yard was also started in "Keartown" by the Steinmetzes and brick were generally made at tile works all over the county, while every village that sprang up had its brickyard, several farmers burning their own brick at home when requiring large quantities.

A tileyard was first started by John and Aaron Tucker on South Shannon street, and what is now known as Leeson avenue was for years called the "Tile Factory road" or "Tile street" from the old tile works located near its intersection with Shannon street. Rupright

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Brothers next bought the old Malick tannery and converted it into a tile mill where their present city yard is. As the demand for tile soon became enormous, yards were soon established all through the county, it being demonstrated that nearly all soil in the county was greatly benefited by underground drainage, the exception being a comparatively narrow strip running through the county, east and west, known as the Sugar Ridge, which possesses a gravelly subsoil. Prior to the introduction of tile, various shifts were resorted to, many using timber for under-drains, and some a subsoil or mole plow, which opened in the clay subsoil a channel for drainage that lasted until closed finally by deep freezing. All such makeshifts were abandoned soon after the manufacture of drain tile began. Thousands of dollars worth are now buried beneath the soil of Van Wert County, but they return rich dividends to the investor, who thereby greatly increases his chances in raising crops.

The first settler west of town was Daniel Cook, who had built the house my father had purchased, and who, after having sold out, had built a cabin outside of the corporate limits, on the site of the Burt residence on West Main street, where he continued to reside until his death, although conducting a grocery for some time on the northwest corner of Main and Washington streets. A brother-in-law of Cook's, George McManima, took upland north of Cook, his cabin standing on Burt street near where the Samuel Miller residence is situated. Later on, David Fisher, another brother-in-law, built on a tract west of Cook where the Dix residence now stands, afterwards erecting the frame residence now owned by James Fostnaught. Elias Evers had opened a farm afterward owned by Esquire Hough, while Peter, John and Samuel Maddox owned farms farther west along the Fort Wayne road, the lastnamed settler living for some time where now stands the Wells homestead, on the west bank of the creek which once bore his name, but which is now known as Hoaglin Creek, while the next stream east is called Maddox Creek. Evers had a good-sized hand-mill to grind corn into meal, and when not needed for the use of his large family the mill was kept busy by his neighbors far and near, there being but few mills in the county at that time.

My uncle, Stephen Gleason, who lived near the southwest corner of Pleasant township in the woods, used to tell of the task he had soon after the Gleason families settled there, when the teams had been sent back to Perrysburg, then the head of navigation on the Maumee, for the household goods, which had been shipped by lake vessels. Having for breadstuff a goodly store of corn, it had to be taken to the Evers hand-mill, about four miles distant, to be ground. This he had to do by packing it on his shoulders, and there being four families to supply it took a trip everyday.

North of town, where Brough Johnson now resides, lived William^. Thorn, a brother of Jacob, Benjamin and Sally Thorn, and a few miles further north were a few scattered settlers, among whom I recall the Taylors, Shaffers, Hagermans, Barleens, Speelers and Beamers. Many of the early settlers had to eke out a livelihood by hunting and trapping, as well as protect their domestic animals from the ravages of wild beasts. I remember that the wolves often howled in the outskirts of the. then village where now stands some of the city's most pretentious residences. One day William Thorn caught one in a steel trap, and brought it to town alive for exhibition. William Thorn, like most of the pioneer settlers, opened a sugar camp near where the pumping station now stands and his successor, William Jones, worked

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it also for a number of years, maple sugar and syrup being staple articles and much lower in price than now, although inferior in quality, but indispensable withal. Southwest of town a couple of miles William Johns opened the farm now owned by M. Woodruff, Jacob Johns also settling near his cousin about the same time, while Lyman S. Wells lived on the next place west along the Willshire road, Solomon Farnam and William Davis and Elisha Wells living still further west, the last three owning tracts of land cornering at the intersection of the Willshire and Decatur roads, while about two miles further on the Willshire road was the Gleason settlement.

South of town about four miles, on what was called the Shanesville road, Thomas Thorn, another brother of those previously named, opened what is now the Joseph Custer farm, while about two miles east along Town Creek, where is now Stump's Crossing, Daniel Hipshire lived with his numerous family. William Cavett was the nearest settler on the Greenville road and Thomas Gilliland on the Jennings, most of these families sending their older children to village schools, which were then not overcrowded. Among those who thus attended the Van Wert schools during winter terms, I remember that Thomas and Charles Gilliland, Ira Cavett, Augustus Bronson and Smith Miller, all of whom that are living being now grandfathers or great-grandfathers presumably, in those days thought little of walking two or three miles night and morning to get the rudiments of education. Spelling contests were frequent during the long winter evenings and were eagerly participated in by pupils of all ages in town and countryside alike. I recall my great elation in one of these spelling schools, when I downed the village doctor (Hines) on "squirrel," which he spelled in the most ridiculous way imaginable, when heand I were the last to stand up. The teacher at that time was the Doctor's future wife, Relief Morse, who was one of the earliest teachers ; her brother, John G. Morse, owned a farm i0 miles west on the Ridge road in Tully township. About the best known of the country school teachers' was my father's sister, Clarissa Gleason, who like Miss Morse had grown up in New York State, was well educated in common branches, and was much in demand in all the country neighborhoods of the county, both winter and summer. No collegiate course was needed in those days to qualify teachers for the backwoods, a knowledge of the "Three R's" being all they were expected to impart, while the salaries were most meagre, the country teacher being expected to "board 'round" among the patrons of the school and sometimes had to accept various commodities in payment of her salary. I remember one instance in particular, when my aunt was induced to accept a rifle as at least a part of her compensation, and she had considerable difficulty in finding a purchaser for it afterward.

John C. Richey, a tailor by trade, came to Van Wert in the early '40's and built a frame house near where the Pennsylvania passenger station now stands, where he followed his occupation successfully for some years, finally removing to Iowa. He had three children—two sons, named Samuel and Joshua, and a daughter Martha—who were schoolmates of mine for a period. It was said of the youngest boy "Josh," that one day he was found digging near a stable very intently and apparently too busy to reply to a query as to his object. It being noticed that his cheeks bulged out in an unusual manner, he was asked what. he had in his mouth; with a laborious effort he impatiently mumbled out "Wurms fo' bait," and went on with his digging. When out of school. in the summer time, the village lads would line

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the edges of the long corduroy road from Jefferson street to the Town Creek bridge, fishing for sunfish in various excavations which were generally full of water, and angle worms were at a premium. From the interstices between the logs, water snakes often emerged to sun themselves and were a terror to barefoot boys, although no one was ever known to have been bitten by them. The favorite fishing place, however, was the "Old Fishing Hole," which was located near the north end of Shannon street, and was resorted to by young and old for fishing and bathing purposes, being the deepest hole known along Town Creek. While no one was known to have been drowned it it, parents were generally afraid to allow very young boys to bathe in it unless older boys were present. and I remember one time when two good-sized lads, who were unable to swim, got in beyond their depth and had to be helped out by an older boy. Many a nice string of fish have I drawn from the "Old Fishing Hole," now only a memory (but a blessed one). When I accomplished the feat of swimming across it in my first attempts as a swimmer, I was proud indeed.

Almost at the beginning of the district schools, Sunday-schools were instituted, the teachers being generally those who taught the common schools and the minister, who taught the Bible class as a rule. Probably the most earnest Sabbath-school worker came to Van Wert in the early '40's in the person of Abel R. Strother, a wagon-maker, and a devout Methodist exhorter and worker, of whose family of two sons and two daughters, Mrs. P. Buckingham is the only survivor. There is little question I think that the "power for good" exerted in those days by Abel R. Strother, and his co-workers in church and Sunday-school has yielded a rich return in placing our city on a higher moral plane than the average.

To the Sunday-school as well as church, came then as now many from the country as far as five or six miles, for country churches and Sunday-schools were few and far between, and only the most unfavorable weather or condition of roads prevented the country contingent from being in their places as regularly as the Sabbath came, summer or winter.

Nearly every summer for several years camp-meetings were held about six miles east of town, which were attended by the majority of' the settlers from the whole county around. Many erected pole shanties more or less elaborate, some with floors and some without, of sufficient size to accommodate a whole family and guests if need be, and at camp-meeting time, which was usually after harvest, whole households would resort there for rest, recreation and religious observances, remaining the entire period devoted to the meeting. Usually some great light of the church, a bishop or a presiding elder, would lend his aid at least a part of the time, while other preachers and exhorters from far and near came to the assistance of local workers so that lively sessions were enjoyed and no doubt more good than evil accomplished, although there were always more or less rumors of strange doings circulated, not at all consistent with religion. It was the day when to attain the object sought after the utmost liberty was allowed, when _ preachers and exhorters would vie with each other in getting the people so wrought up that all conventionality was disregarded utterly and pandemonium reigned. Shouts and imprecations filled the air, while clapping of hands and stamping of feet helped to increase the din. Occasionally the "power" would throw the subject into a fit or trance from which it was

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next to impossible to arouse him for hours, and in a few cases the victims became raving maniacs. My parents did not approve of or believe in such manifestations of religion, and rather held aloof, but occasionally visited the camp grounds from curiosity and for diversion. On one of these visits, hearing shouting in one of the shanties, my father approached as near the crowded doorway as he could, and looking in beheld a young woman with the "power" dancing and shouting, presently grabbing her tall brother about the neck and yanking him so heavily that at last he tripped and fell, to the great amusement of the spectators. My oldest sister, a girl of perhaps 9 or 10 years, enjoyed it greatly, thinking it was a fine show, and laughed until she cried. A few years later a new site was chosen near Straughn and meetings were held one or two summers and then discontinued.

The early singing schools used the "buck-wheat" note system for several years until about 1845, when James L. McLeod came one winter and organized a class in rudimental music, using the "round" note system and afterward few winters passed without a singing school being conducted by some one.

The first writing school taught in Van Wert was by a Mr. Bowling about 1848. Being an excellent penman, he made quite a success of it. Unfortunately he fell ill with fever and ague and had to abandon the field finally, much to his disgust.

Few families were fortunate enough to escape this scourge, which was the product of malaria caused by stagnated water in swamp and stream, rendering life in the backwoods far from desirable. Quinine was the almost universal remedy prescribed but many other nostrums were experimented with more or less successfully. One of the remedies recommended "Col." George Marsh may recall, as Iremember his testing it when he was an inmate of my father's hostelry (about 1848), where his father made his home with his family for some months. The ague had invaded the Marsh household and even quinine had failed to cure George of the "shakes," which I remember came on at a certain hour every other day. After trying one remedy after another in vain, some one told him if he would start and run a mile just before the chill was due he would escape it at least for that time. Grasping the idea as a drowning man would a straw, he lost no time in planning its execution and having chosen a course \west along the Fort Wayne road to a "mile tree" he next hired two younger boys (I being one) to accompany him, and see that the test was a fair one.. I think each was to have a stick of candy if he held out for the entire distance. All being arranged satisfactorily, an even start was made 15 or 20 minutes prior to the schedule time of the ague, and aII three did their level best, Marsh running to beat the ague, and his companions to earn their candy. George, having the longest legs and the best wind, easily distanced his competitors and reached the goal ahead by many lengths and was shaking "to beat the band" when we arrived, but had the candy ready for us. After the chill and fever had subsided, we all took the back trail to town, he at least a sadder and wiser boy for the experiment.

Some two or three years after our family came to Van Wert, Samuel Engleright, a blacksmith, took up his residence in the village and became one of its most useful citizens, working at his trade in a shop on West Main street, between Washington and Jefferson (south side). He filled the sheriff's office creditably for some years and with his family was well regarded in the community. He was, I belive of French extraction, which cropped

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out occasionally in his speech. While at work at his anvil in his shop across the street, his merry whistle was heard from early morn till night, occasionally interrupted by the entrance of some customer who had to wait until the tune was finished, when the smith would signify his readiness by saying "Which" or "Whaitch !" so heartily that the apparent slight was at once forgotten and forgiven. He taught two of the Clark boys not only his trade but the art of whistling, and Henry Weible, late a prominent citizen of Delphos, was one of Engleright's apprentices. Engleright was always fond of hunting and generally successful as a deer stalker by day, or a coon hunter by night, lighting his way with a torch made of hickory bark. He usually kept two or three "coon dogs" as did many of the settlers, the favorite kind being the long-eared black and tan hound, which by its deep resonant bay when on the trail kept the hunter advised what direction to pursue to head off or keep pace with the quarry. These dogs being fleet of foot also were useful in hunting larger game, such as deer, bears and wolves, so that when sold they frequently brought a good price for their good points.

With a little shame I confess to having had a part in a piece of bare-faced deception, which gave our good blacksmith not a little-trouble. One Saturday morning bright and early in blackberry time, another boy and I sallied forth in quest of berries down the Jennings road where there was a deadening of several acres, thickly grown over with briars and other undergrowth, making an ideal blackberry patch. Two other boys, John Engleright and another, had the same scheme in view, but we arrived first and believing that we had a prior right to the spoils concealed ourselves in the thick brush and upon the approach of our rivals set up a series of howls such as would not discredit real wolves, our object being to stampede the other boys. It "worked" to perfection, and the boys ran as boys "ne'er ran before," until they reached town and the blacksmith shop, where their startling report created no little excitement. All work was suspended and the sturdy blacksmith and a neighbor or two with the dogs and guns were soon on the way to the deadening. Their arrival was made known to us in time to get under cover where we lay undetected, the dogs taking no notice of our presence and the hunters failing to find the "two-legged wolves" after the most energetic beating up of the whole deadening, finally leaving us to finish our picking in peace and content. For obvious reasons we took a different route than usual on our way home, and kept "mum" about the fraud, which so far as I know was never suspected by the victims.

With John F. Dodds in 1837 came William Parent, then single, who afterwards married Barbara Shingledecker and with his aged father, Samuel Parent, who had served in the War of 1812, built their cabin on lot 73 near where is now the Hines drug store, but on the east side of Walnut street. Later William Parent purchased 20 acres of land where Dr. Ainsworth and his mother now reside and made that his home for a number of years, working at anything to which he could turn his hand, burning charcoal for blacksmiths, wood cutting and clearing being some of his avocations.

Possessing a strong tenor voice, he soon became much in demand as a vocalist for Fourth of July and political occasions. When it was known that Bill Parent would sing, `there was sure to be a crowd there to hear him. One of his favorite songs was called "The Liberty Tree" and never failed to call forth :cheer upon cheer at the end of each stanza, I recall the first verse only:

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Columbus, that man of bright genius

Sailed from European shore

With a mind full as clear as bright Venus,

This Western world to explore.

He was the first man to venture the ocean,

This Western land for to see,

To hunt out a place for a nation,

And plant out a Liberty Tree.

In these cultured times such verses are called mere doggerel, but the standard was not very high in the backwoods, while patriotic force burned as bright among the rough woodsmen as anywhere in the land.

Parent had quite a repertoire of similar songs and being of a jovial disposition was always ready when called upon to sing a song or tell a story. After a few years residence in the village, having a family of boys growing up he purchased a tract of land on the Jennings road and cleared up the farm now known as the Joseph Johnson homestead, where he died.

Another popular singer that I remember was DeLong, who made occasional visits to the village and stopped at my father's tavern, where he was always invited to sing for the crowd that usually gathered there evenings. As I remember, his songs were more of a religious character than Parent's, but always gave delight to his hearers.